Friday, March 14, 2014

MCT Watches Manufacture – Sequential Two S200




















MCT Watches Manufacture - Sequential TWO S200 NEW


CHANGING THE FACE OF TIME

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BASELWORLD 2014

The Sequential TwoS200 features MCT's signature prism display, for the first time in a round case. The innovative time display and impeccably crafted case exhibit all of the key design elements that established the Swiss brand's reputation, including a sapphire ring around the caseband.

The automatic-winding movement with 18K gold micro-rotor was developed in-house by MCT. Highly legible hours are indicated by four modules, each comprising of five triangular prisms. The current hour is highlighted by an open 'window' in a 'C-shape' arc around the center of the dial, which is relief engraved with "Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps" (MCT).

The 'C-shape' arc rotates sequentially 90° anticlockwise to highlight the new hour, while minutes are displayed 360° around the full perimeter of the dial. The combination of over-size hour numeral and central minutes offers an extremely legible time indication.

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The lower mass of the micro-rotor requires less force than a traditional full-size rotor. Visible through the display back, the beautifully hand-finished black movement bridges offer an eye-catching contrast to the warm glow of the red gold eccentric weight, screws and mainspring chaton.

In just over a year, MCT has realized a comprehensive verticalization strategy and now controls all essential stages of their production process, including movement design through to final assembly. With its captivating displays and no-compromise design, the Sequential 200 reinforces MCT's lofty position in high-end contemporary watchmaking.


MCT Watches Manufacture Sequential Two S200 - RD45 S200 White Gold

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The Sequential TwoS200 is available in red gold with dark dial elements or white gold with light dial elements.

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Sequential TwoS200 in depth

Design

MCT places a very high emphasis on design; design not just in the broader sense of the overall look of each timepiece, but also in meticulous attention to the tiniest of details. While often unnoticed, it is MCT's uncompromising design philosophy that sets them apart; that and of course their visually-arresting cases, innovative displays and high quality craftsmanship !

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And thanks to the importance placed on the overall design architecture and design details, every model in their collection is immediately identifiable as MCT through their distinctive lugs and sapphire crystal ring around the caseband.

Display

Hours: The Sequential TwoS200 features MCT's renowned prism hour display as well as 360° seconds. The hour modules enable highly legible over-sized numerals. Each of the four hour modules comprises of five triangular prisms, which rotate to display one of three numbers.

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The current hour is indicated by the open mouth of the 'C-shape' arc around the center of the dial, which also masks the non-current hours. The current hour displays sequentially in an anticlockwise direction.

Movement

Sequential Two's automatic winding movement was developed in-house by MCT's, which ensured that the movement exactly met expectations in terms of design, performance, finish and quality. The 18K gold micro-rotor enables a very slim movement and case, making for a comfortable fit on the wrist (and under cuffs) as well as harmoniously pleasing case proportions. The uni-directional micro-rotor offers another advantage in that it requires less force to rotate than a conventional rotor.

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While few are not likely to get excited by the subject of gearing, Sequential Two's owner may appreciate the fact that the movement benefits from the latest advances in teeth profiles on the gears. The high efficiency gears mean less energy wasted in friction losses, higher and more consistent power to the regulator for higher precision and a longer power reserve.

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The stunning black movement bridges visible through the display back offer a high contrast backdrop to the red gold of rotor, screws and mainspring chaton. While the black movement may appear at first glance to be 'minimalist', no fewer than 507 components required in its construction bear testimony to the complexity involved. The black of the bridges and plates serves to subtlety reinforce the hand finishing of the “côtes de Genève”, perlage and hand-beveled edges.


Case and crystals

While the Sequential Two is MCT's first model housed in a round case, it is immediately recognizable as by MCT thanks to the strong DNA running throughout the collection. Although the sequential prism hour display might be the most obvious visual clue to the Sequential Two's thoroughbred providence, the distinctive lugs are another.

And the caseband harbors yet another MCT trademark, one more subtle but no less impressive: a sapphire crystal ring that ascetically lightens the case and quite literally lightens, as in allowing light into, the indications, complication and movement.

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The top sapphire crystal is not simply placed on a bezel, but is stepped down and invisibly screwed to the case, dispensing with the bezel entirely. This may seem a simple detail, but is further proof of MCT's uncompromising approach to design. With the sides of the crystal replacing the bezel on top of the case, the timepiece appears slimmer and the transparent sides, in conjunction with the sapphire caseband ring and display back, allow light to illuminate the displays from nearly every angle.


MCT Watches Manufacture Sequential Two S200 - RD45 S200 Red Gold

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MCT: Verticalization strategy bearing fruit

MCT's parent company, Cage Holdings doesn't do things by half and, in just over 12 months, they have transformed MCT by undertaking a successful verticalization strategy. MCT now benefits from both a sister component assembly company and a movement design company.

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 The latter being the company that developed MCT first movement for the Sequential One as well as the MCT-S2 automatic movement for the Sequential Two. Under cage Holdings, in just over a year, MCT has been transformed from a niche brand with just a few employees to a small group with over 40 employees and there are more acquisitions in the pipeline.

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This verticalization differentiates MCT from the majority of small high-end brands in that MCT controls the production process rather than relying on 3rd party suppliers. The MCT-S2 automating winding movement in the Sequential Two is just the first fruit of what promises to be a very productive tree.

Case and crystal: Because the sapphire crystal is stepped down, replacing the bezel and opening the dial to maximize light and visual access, it was a challenge to insert the sapphire window around the caseband.

Design: Excellent design in watchmaking has become much more important and MCT places a premium on superlative design. No comprise on design is an essential element of the MCT philosophy.

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Technical specifications: 
Sequential TwoS200

Functions
Large hours by sequential display of four prisms; central minutes.
Hour prisms: three numbers on each, each hour module composed of five prisms
Movement
Mechanical movement Caliber MCT-S2 developed in-house
Automatic winding with 18K gold micro-rotor
Balance frequency 2.5Hz/28,800vph
Hairspring with Breguet terminal curve
Power reserve: 40 hours
High efficiency gear tooth profiles
Hand-polished bevels and “côtes de Genève”
No. of components: 507
85 jewels.
Case
18K red gold or 18K white gold with sapphire ring around caseband
Diameter 44.6 mm, height (in center) 14.5mm diameter
No. of components: 43
Sapphire crystals: double anti-reflect coating on top crystal,
anti-reflect coating on display back crystal.
Sapphire crystal inset in caseband
Water resistance: 30 meters/ 3 ATM/ 100 feet
Strap and clasp
Alligator leather with anti-allergy inner lining;
double hand-stitched; 18K gold and titanium doublefolding
clasp.
Warranty
Two-year manufacture's warranty from date of purchase

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To arrange an appointment with us at Baselworld
Please send an e-mail to pr@mctwatches.com or telephone +41 32 727 12 01.
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Thursday, March 13, 2014

MB&F – Legacy Machine ML No.1 XIA HANG


MB&F Legacy Machine ML No. 1 XIA HANG  

After working for nearly 45 hours without a break – all at peak performance – it’s been a long tiring day and energy levels are low. While it was relatively easy to sit up straight at the start of the day, fatigue has now set in, back languidly bends, head hits lap. ‘Mr. Up’ has become ‘Mr. Down’. But before Mr. Down shuts off completely, an invigorating influx of energy lifts his head, straightens his back and brightens his spirits. Mr. Up has been brought back to life!

Welcome to the world of Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang. Welcome to the world of Mr. Up and Mr. Down, a collaboration between MB&F and Chinese artist Xia Hang.

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Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang (LM1 Xia Hang) retains all of the 19th century pocket watch- inspired features of the original LM1, including the majestically suspended slowly oscillating balance wheel and dual time indications that can be set completely independently, but with a twist: the power reserve is indicated by a miniature, highly-polished aluminium man, designed by talented Chinese sculptor, Xia Hang. The man sits up straight when the movement is fully wound (Mr. Up) and gradually slumps over as the power diminishes (Mr. Down).

“I call these little men ‘comma men’, and their distinctive shape comes from a selection of art I created from 2005 to 2008. Commas do exist in Chinese writing and for me the ‘comma man’ represents a chubby boy.”  Xia Hang

Xia Hang and MB&F share much in common. While MB&F create serious works of time-telling kinetic art, they don’t take themselves too seriously. Similarly, Xia Hang believes the world of art is often too serious; he likes it to be playful, and wants his sculptures to entertain and make people smile. And just like MB&F, Hang calls his kinetic sculptures ‘machines’.

“I was first introduced to Xia Hang a few years ago by a Chinese art collector friend, and visited him on the outskirts of Beijing in his workshop. I was like a child in a toy factory!”    Maximilian Büsser

The in-house movement powering LM1 Xia Hang bears testimony to the enormous talent of its creators. Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode developed the LM1 calibre, which features the world’s first vertical power reserve and allows completely independent setting – including minutes – of both time displays. Acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen was responsible for the aesthetic design and for strictly ensuring the utmost respect for tradition and finish.

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Legacy Machine N°1 was conceived when Maximilian Büsser started fantasising: “What would have happened if I had been born in 1867 instead of 1967? In the early 1900s the first wristwatches appear and I would want to create three-dimensional machines for the wrist, but there would have been no Grendizers, Star Wars or fighter jets for my inspiration. But I would have had pocket watches, the Eiffel Tower and Jules Verne, so what might my 1911 machine look like? It has to be round and it has to be three-dimensional: Legacy Machine N°1 was my answer.”


INSPIRATION & REALISATION
Maximilian Büsser has had a long affinity with pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. Virtually all horological complications we see today were not only imagined in that period, they were developed using just paper and pen (no sophisticated computer programs), components were produced to extremely high precision using – by contemporary standards – fairly primitive machines (no electricity) and finely finished, assembled and regulated to an incredibly high quality that we still strive to match today. Their generous size compared with modern wristwatches allowed for uncluttered movement architectures with beautifully- shaped bridges and plates.

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MB&F’s futuristic Horological Machines have always had a firm foundation in the very best of traditional horology, but Büsser wanted to pay further homage to that rich tradition by imagining the type of timepiece he might create if he had been born 100 years earlier, in 1867 instead of 1967. With its large, sedately oscillating balance, domed dials, historical bridge design and classical fine-finishing, Legacy Machine N°1 is the very contemporary, yet traditionally elegant, fruition of that dream.

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ENGINE
LM1’s ingenious three-dimensional movement was specifically developed for MB&F from Maximilian Büsser’s sketches by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland. The balance wheel and spring are at the very heart of any mechanical watch movement and are responsible for regulating timekeeping accuracy. Büsser has long been fascinated by the large, slowly oscillating – 18,000bph compared with the 28,800bph common today – balance wheels of antique pocket watches, so it was no surprise this was his starting point from which to let his imagination roam free. What was surprising though is just how radically he re-interpreted tradition by relocating the balance wheel from its more usual position hidden at the back of the movement to the top, majestically floating above the movement… even floating above the dials!

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While the location of Legacy Machine N°1’s regulating organ may be considered avant-garde, ‘tradition’ is upheld by the large 14mm diameter balance wheel with regulating screws specifically developed for MB&F, balance spring with Breguet overcoil and mobile stud holder.

Another very special feature of the LM1 movement is the ability to set the two time zones completely independently. The vast majority of dual time zone movements only allow the hours to be independently adjusted, while a rare few offer setting to the half hour. Legacy Machine N°1 allows both hours and minutes of each dial to be set to whatever time the user wishes.

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The vertical power reserve indicator on LM1 Xia Hang is driven by an ultra-flat differential with ceramic bearings, allowing for a slimmer complication and a more robust and longer- wearing mechanism.

'LITTLE MAN' POWER RESERVE INDICATOR
LM1’s power reserve complication was modified to enable Xia Hang’s comma man to seamlessly transition from slumping right over when power is low to sitting up straight at full wind. Xia Hang first created full-size sculptures, which MB&F then scaled down to a height of just 4mm (1/8”) and then developed the articulation required. The head, shoulders, back and chest of ‘Mr. Up’ (as the power reserve indicator in known when wound), all bend down – thanks to a concealed hinge – towards the horizontal as he becomes tired and Mr. Up becomes Mr. Down. The tiny micro-mechanical sculpture is crafted from aluminium to minimise energy requirements. A very high polish ensures that the little man both catches the light and the eye, as well as remaining faithful to Xia Hang’s original conception.

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DIALS & INDICATIONS
The rate-keeping of the twin dials is controlled by the same regulator (balance and escapement) so that once set, the two times stay perfectly synchronised with each other. Both the hours AND minutes on both dials can be set to any time desired via their respective crowns.

Complementing the three-dimensionality of the balance floating in space, the dual white dials with their bright blue gold hands float above the top of the movement. The dials are gently domed with a translucent, high-gloss lustre created using a “laque tendue” process in which multiple layers of lacquer are applied and heated, causing them to stretch over the surface of the dials.

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To ensure aesthetic purity of the dials and their traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive used screws. A fine golden perimeter circumscribing each dial elegantly reinforces their timeless classicism.

FINE FINISHING & HISTORICAL LEGITIMACY
 
Acclaimed master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine N°1 movement. No easy task with such an unconventional suspended-balance design from which to begin.

A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the twin white dials, floating balance or vertical power reserve. But it is in the style and finish of the bridges and plates visible through the display on the back of the movement where Kari Voutilainen has excelled in providing exquisite historical fidelity in both the shape of elegantly curved bridges and the traditionally wide space between the bridges and between the perimeter of the bridges and the case.

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On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk gold chatons provide striking visual counterpoints to the Geneva waves traversing the sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high- grade antique pocket watch movements, the ruby bearings have a practical application in reducing wear/increasing longevity by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

ACCOMPAMYING SCULPTURE OF Mr. UP & Mr. DOWN

In a spontaneous gesture by Xia Hang, each of the 24 pieces of LM1 Xia Hang – 12 in red gold and 12 in white gold – are accompanied by a pair of full-size (approximately 15cm / 6” high) sculptures of Mr. Up and Mr. Down in polished stainless steel and signed by the artist.
Legacy Machine N°1 Xia Hang is the first time (and hopefully not the last) that there has been a cross-pollination between a MB&F M.A.D. Gallery artist (Xia Hang) and a MB&F watch (LM1). In curating these amazing artists at our M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva, it opens a world of possibilities in possible co-creations with MB&F’s Machines”  Maximilian Büsser

BIOGRAPHY
Xia Hang was born in 1978 in Shenyang, Liaoning Province, China. He started painting when he was just 10 years old and went to art college in 1997. In 2002 Xia Hang graduated with a Bachelor of Fine Arts from the Lu Xun Academy of Fine Arts in China.

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 His graduation work was a cluster of comma-shaped men made from mirror-polished stainless steel, the first of the highly distinctive forms that have now culminated in the power reserve indicator of Legacy Machine N°1. Xia Hang also graduated with a Masters of Fine Art from the Sculpture Department of the Central Academy of Fine Arts in China.

Since he began sculpting, Xia Hang has had an affinity for steel, drawn to it by its strength and high polish. He explains, “I have always been interested in metal. Perhaps I am drawn to the shine of metal and its durability. Metal is much stronger than stone or wood, yet it is still very malleable. I think that the changeable dynamics of metal are similar to the characteristics of humans. This is why I choose to work with metal.”

Xia Hang believes that his sculptures should be considered like toys. He wants people to touch his art, to play with it. Highlighting this philosophy, Hang’s 2008 exhibit was called “Please don’t touch”, with the “don’t” crossed out. While we may view Xia Hang’s creations as aliens, he sees them as babies. Fat babies.

“When I first met Max he was wearing a HM3 and I loved the playful sculptural nature of it. Through him, I learnt that watches could also be very creative. I admire Max’s passion in finding artists who share similar tastes and the MB&F M.A.D. Gallery in Geneva is one of my favourite art galleries in the world. I hope to be able to collect Max’s watches one day and I think that MB&Fs mechanical art work is unsurpassed. I am very pleased to have had the opportunity to collaborate with MB&F, their Machines inspire me.”  Xia Hang



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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Engine (Movement)
Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François
Mojon /Chronode with aesthetics finishes specified by Kari Voutilainen
Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve indicator: a little man designed by Chinese artist Xia Hang
Power reserve: 45 hours
Balance wheel: bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating in mobile stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 274
Number of jewels: 23
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout respecting 19th century style; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings
Functions
Hours and minutes; completely independent dual time zones displayed on two dials
Unique vertical power reserve indicated by a highly-polished little man in aluminium
Left crown at 8 o’clock for setting time of left dial; right crown at 4 o’clock for setting time of right dial and winding
Case
Available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 16mm high
Number of components: 65
Sapphire crystals: High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Strap & Buckle

Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with gold tang buckle to match case

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