Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate-toned dial















Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a preview of the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 in preparation for the 2014 SIHH

 

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On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of this timepiece that has become a cult object, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to return to the very origins of a legend by presenting the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, directly inspired by the aesthetic codes of the historical model.


 Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Histori 1934
 
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This creation, distinguished by an ultra-thin case, contemporary dimensions and remarkably faithfulness to the original, was enthusiastically received by devotees of the Reverso and by watch connoisseurs who expressed the wish that this vintage edition should not remain a one-off model. In response to their desires, the Manufacture already introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. For 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the third member of this splendid trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.

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The new model, entirely in keeping with its historical ascendance, vividly evokes the finest hours of Art Deco. Its shape, its colour and its materials are the ultimate expression of a movement that heralded the inception of industrial design while favouring hand craftsmanship executed to perfection. Entranced by this delightful colour palette, the eye naturally lingers on the pleasing contrasts between the glowing chocolate shade of the watch face and the pink gold of the case, including the traditional gadroons framing the dial.

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This irresistible association is further underscored by the judicious reinterpretation of the aesthetic principles governing the original. Apart from the 12 o’clock numeral, the hours are shown by baton-shaped hour-markers, while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once a minute rotation on the dedicated rectangular subdial. This picture of pure, restrained refinement would not be complete without a mention of the “REVERSO” inscription exactly reproducing that appearing on the historical model. Everything might seem to have been said, and yet it is only now that the distinctive emotional ties uniting an owner and his Reverso can begin to be woven.

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A new strap by Casa Fagliano






















For the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Casa Fagliano has agreed to produce hand-crafted straps in successive stages following the strict principles of time-honoured tradition in working with cordovan leather, which is renowned for its exceptional resistance.
Delivered along with each watch, the strap made in the Casa Fagliano workshops is distinguished by its elegant suppleness and hand-made mode of production that makes it truly one of a kind. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud of this partnership that further strengthens the ties between polo and the Reverso.

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Technical Specifications
Reference: Q2782560
 
Movement: 
Mechanical with manual winding
Calibre 822/2 Jaeger-LeCoultre designed, assembled and decorated by hand
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 19
Height: 2,95 mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial:  
Chocolate with numerals and powdered hours
Hands: Baton faceted and gold plated
Case:  
18K Rose Gold
Height: 46.8 mm
Width: 27.4 mm
Thickness: 7.3 mm
Finish: Polished
Glasses: Sapphire
Mention "1000 Hours Control" on the bottom
Sealing: Up to 3 bars
Bracelets
Leather matte brown alligator 20/18
2nd bracelet cordovan leather, manufactured by the "Casa Fagliano" Buenos Aires
Clasp: 
Buckle in 18K pink gold

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Saturday, December 7, 2013

PANERAI - Luminor 1950 3 Days Left-Handed - 47mm PAM 577


OFFICINE PANERAI Luminor 1950 3 Days Left-Handed - 47mm PAM577  2013

SIHH 2014

There are some watches which on their first appearance come across as true icons of a brand, from their ability to communicate their identity and history through their design. One of these is the Luminor 1950 3 Days – 47mm, the clean lines of which have an immediate appeal for enthusiasts looking for a model in the simplicity of which all the vintage fascination of Panerai watches can be found. 

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The Luminor 1950 3 Days is now also available in a version enhanced by another historic detail: Officine Panerai presents the left-handed version, in which the winding crown and the crown-protecting device are at 9 o’clock, on the left side of the case.

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 Left-handed watches are very much part of the history of Panerai. The commandos of the Italian Navy had to wear several instruments on their wrists at once: not only the watch, indispensable for synchronising their attacks and for keeping track of the length of time spent in the depths of the sea, but also the compass and depth gauge.
 
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For convenience, some of them preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, and for them Panerai created the watch with the winding crown on the left side, as can be seen in some rare contemporary examples which still survive today.

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The steel case of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days has a unique detail which distinguishes it from the classic Luminor 1950 case: the caseband has a cusped shape, hinting at the form of a cushion case. This little detail, picked up directly from some examples of the period, tells the story which brought about the transformation from the Radiomir, created in 1936, with a classic cushion case, to the Luminor, more massive in its proportions and identified by the device protecting the winding crown.

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Another element of great interest is the absolute purity of the black dial, with the large numerals at the cardinal points, on which the words “Luminor Panerai” are engraved in the lettering of the time. The clarity and legibility of the dial are enhanced by its sandwich structure, being formed of two superimposed plates enclosing a layer of Super-LumiNova® which guarantees a high degree of luminosity. The dial is protected not by a sapphire crystal but by a Plexiglas® one, similar to the polymethyl methacrylate used in the historic models.

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The movement of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days is the hand-wound P.3000 calibre with a power reserve of three days, completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel.

 Panerai Сalibre P.3000

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With a diameter of 16½ lignes, the calibre has a distinctive structure with wide bridges, two spring barrels which provide the power reserve of three days and a balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter. The P.3000 calibre also has the rapid time-changing device, by means of which the hour hand is moved in jumps of one hour at a time, without interfering with the minute hand or the running of the watch.

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The Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days (PAM00557) is water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres (10 atmospheres). It is fitted with strap of natural, untreated leather, fastened by a brushed steel buckle inspired by that of the period model.
It is supplied with a second strap made of rubber and a spare Plexiglas® crystal.

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 journal.hautehorlogerie.org









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Friday, December 6, 2013

CERTINA - DS Podium Chronograph Automatic






















CERTINA - DS Podium Chronograph Automatic

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Sporty precision in elegant dress 

The Certina DS Podium line has the expert touch when it comes to blending elegance with undeniably sporty influences. The DS Podium Chronograph and its precise automatic movement in a brushed/polished case follows in those footsteps. Bright, open and at ease next to any style of dress, it brings together chrono functions, a see-through case back and traditional Certina quality.

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The DS Podium’s classy sunray-finished silver dial immediately sets the tone, with its bright surface crisply outlined by a black outer rim and broad, black nickelled HM hands, both trimmed with Superluminova to ensure great legibility in all lighting conditions.

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The Swiss Made ETA automatic movement provides 6h, 30min, 60sec chronograph functions, activated by black PVD-tipped push-buttons next to a protected crown inscribed with the letters “DS”. Arabic numerals are used only at 3 and 9 o’clock, in a strong design touch which reserves the vertical axis for the two black chrono counters (with red indicator hands) and a date window at 6 o’clock.

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The 42mm brushed/polished 316L stainless-steel case is equipped with a tachymeter-scale bezel, a sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating, and a see-through case back that allows watch connoisseurs to admire the movement and rotor, decorated with the traditional Certina turtle logo, perennial symbol of reliability and durability.

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The DS Podium Chronograph – Automatic is equipped with the famous Certina DS Concept – as its name suggests, to ensure water resistance up to a pressure of 10 bar (100m). The model comes with a white-stitched black leather strap held by a twin push-button butterfly buckle. Other versions are available, including a particularly sporty model with a black dial and silver chrono counters, and a three-row (polished central row) steel strap

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Movement:
ETA C01.211, Swiss Made automatic
Hour, minute, small seconds, date
Chronograph with 6h, 30min, 60sec counters
Case:
316L stainless steel,
brushed-polished,
42mm diameter
Dial:
Silver colour with sunray finish
with black counters for 30min
and 6h and silver small-second (60sec) counter
Water resistance:
Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100m)
Crystal:
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Crown:
Protected, letters “DS” (Double Security) on tip
Watch strap:
Black leather strap with twin push-button butterfly buckle
Specificity:
DS (Double Security)
References:
C001.427.16.037.01 Silver dial, black leather strap
C001.427.11.057.01 Black dial, stainless steel bracelet

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Wednesday, December 4, 2013

BREITLING - Super Avenger II Military Chronograph Blacksteel Limited Series



















BREITLING - SUPER AVENGER II Military Chronograph Blacksteel Limited Edition NEW


An elite force.

 A concentrated blend of power, precision and functionality, the new Super Avenger Military chronograph by Breitling certainly lives up to its name. Its rugged steel case, water-resistant to 300 meters (1,000 ft), features an ultra-resistant carbon-based black coating. The result is a non-reflective stealth look clearly geared up for the most extreme missions. The equally black dial provides a 24-hour “military time” display to avoid any potential confusion in the heat of action. The offroader strap is made of a durable and comfortable synthetic fabric such as those adopted for their operations by the elite armed forces.

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500-piece limited edition, the Super Avenger Military is also distinguished by its screwed-in pushpiece guards, its large screw-locked crown with non-slip grip guaranteeing maximum functionality; its thick glareproofed sapphire crystal, as well as the oversized hands, hour-markers and numerals ensuring optimal readability.

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A true instrument for professionals, it is equipped with a selfwinding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) – the highest official benchmark in terms of precision and reliability, as well as the only one based on an international norm. Super Avenger Military: an elite force on the wrist.

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Technical details

 Reference: M2233010/BC91/100W/M20BASA.1
  

Movement
Breitling  Caliber 22, (Base : ETA 2892-A2)
Officially  chronometer-certified  by  the  COSC,
Selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per  hour),
38 jewels. 1/4th second  chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers.
Flyback function.
Calendar
Case
Black steel, 500-piece limited series
Water-resistant to 300 m (1,000 ft/30 bars)
Screw-locked crown
Unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel
Cambered sapphire crystal,
glare-proofed on both sides 48 mm in diameter
Dial
Volcano black
Strap
Military strap
Limited series
 500-piece

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Monday, December 2, 2013

AkriviA - Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph

 
An Exceptional Brand
 
AkriviA was born of the meeting of two promising personalities from Geneva’s horology galaxy, Rexhep Rexhepi and Etienne Deschamps.
This brand has established itself within the great traditions of horology, that of ingenious mechanisms of the first clocks, with the most refined complications. It is with the ambition of the great players in the world of horology and the Arts that Akrivia, today, presents exceptional timepieces, aligning heritage with the reinterpretation of contemporary aestheticism. 
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Rexhep Rexhepi
It was at the tender age of 12 that this young horology aficionado left Kosovo for Geneva.
A passionate and committed student, he obtained his horology diploma from Patek Philippe. Geneva’s great watchmaking house wished to keep him on and offered him his first contract as a professional watchmaker. Over a period of two years, this tireless and inquisitive young man would work in virtually every atelier of the watchmaking house.
Upon being noticed by BNB Concept, he perfected his skills whilst working on complicated mechanisms. At the age of 20, he was made manager of the atelier.
Francois-Paul Journe also took interest in the young and talented watchmaker, and put him in charge of mounting some world re-known calibres. 
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Despite being more than fulfilled in his job, Rexhep aspired to be more independent. His experience gained alongside the greatest stimulated his creativity, and it was at night, after long days at work, that his project to launch his own brand matured. The first time-keeper conceived by his own hands was a tourbillon chronograph. He then partnered with Etienne Deschamps, a young horologer sharing the same aspirations.

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Etienne Deschamps


Etienne Deschamps grew up in the Geneva countryside, far from the established and prestigious watchmakers.
It was almost by accident, at the age of 15, that he became acquainted with horology. More than being just a job, he discovered in it an identity, a tradition, and roots. He then began his apprenticeship with the Chopard house.
After four years of study, he was awarded the title of best watchmaker in Geneva for his end-of-year exams.

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With a deep desire to travel the world, Etienne spent eight months in Brisbane, in the Australian Queensland, to perfect his English and satiate his taste for adventure. A few months after his return, Chopard offered him the position of Method Agent.
It was not easy though to stay put after having had a taste of freedom and travel. Etienne therefore jumped onto a new opportunity: that of setting up his own business.
A methodical and patient man, he left the comforts of a secure job to return to university, where he later obtained a Bachelors degree in Management at the ESM, Management and Communication school.


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The AkriviA Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph
 For me as a watchmaker, a tourbillon will always remain one of the most challenging and beautiful types of escapement mechanisms to create - and this is the reason why it is at the heart of my first AkriviA timepiece. However, using a tourbillon was just one of several decisions regarding my specific choice of this type of movement. I was also fascinated by the combination of a tourbillon with the more rare variety of chronograph called a ‘monopusher’. 
  
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This is one of the oldest chronograph types that we know of, with a grand history dating back to the 19th century. Even today in the 21st century it remains the most easy to use chronograph type, perfectly suited to the typical timing tasks of everyday life.  This combination of tourbillon and monopusher chronograph is very inspiring for me in the way it combines complications in an elegant manner for a contemporary watch design. I see no reason why a watch cannot be useful, as well as high-end and elegant!
 
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The movement I am using for the first series of AkriviA timepieces was developed by friends of mine here in Geneva; in fact, I was even able to follow its development directly as it was being designed. So it also has its ‘roots’ in the Geneva tradition – the city where I grew up and presently live.

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It embodies everything that tradition has to offer while being different from the rest and in fact, it is actually quite rare as very few of these calibers were made. 
 On a more technical watchmaking level, an aspect I really enjoy is the fact that the chronograph mechanism is built up on the dial side, which is quite rare in the world of watchmaking. All of the bridges, springs, plates and the tourbillon cage, the balance with its gold timing screws, the chronograph wheel and many more details - have all been re-designed following my personal approach to watchmaking, and for this reason many new parts were created from steel, which allows me to work to a high level of finishing as well as providing extensive longevity regarding wear and tear.

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 Some of these changes were purely visible in order to follow all the codes for the Geneva Seal; others were undertaken in order to optimize the monopusher chronograph functions for perfect chronometric results and the elimination of backlash when stopping and starting the mechanism. And, last but not least, as a watchmaker, I am exceptionally pleased that the timing results of this movement when completed in this manner have turned out to be exceptional in every way.

Design
In the design of the case for my watch, I was strongly influenced by classical traditions as a starting point; however, it was not my wish to merely copy a particular look or style of case design from the past. For this reason I chose to create a strong identity using what I would call a neo-classical design vocabulary.

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The case design recalls the elegant cases of the past only by indirect inference, yet its design is firmly rooted in the more dynamic lines of the 21st century. And with an eye to the user, in order to make the watch comfortable to wear, a lot of attention was paid to such details as the creation of a streamlined, ergonomic case form and outline, the shape of the pusher as well as the angle and direction in which the fingers touch the case when using the chronograph functions. The anti-glare treated sapphire glass front and back provide the perfect window on the movement’s key features and the attention given to each detail.

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With a philosophy identical to that used in the movement, the case is extremely finely finished in every detail as well as complex in its realization with more than 30 separate parts; for this reason it takes me more than 5 days of work to complete the case by hand to the same level as my movement. And of course, here also you will find hand engraved inscriptions on the case to complement that work….

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DIAL SIDE
Created according to the highest standards of traditional Swiss watchmaking, all components of the chronograph movement were made by hand. The engravings, chamfering, matte finishings, cicle grain finishings, the mirror polishing and some 36 inward angles constitute all the finishings.
Under the chronograph bridge, you can see more of the hammer and gear teeth, with another specificity; the wheels. They have been specially cut with a patented design by AkriviA.

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TOURBILLON
The tourbillon seduces us with its size, its elegant proportions and the quality of its finishings. The 10 inward angles and mirror polished surfaces complete this unique haute horlogerie mechanism.

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MOVEMENT SIDE
The sapphire case-back reveals a structure in accordance with the purest tradition of Geneva. The different bridges are all adorned with straight Côtes de Genève, created with boxwood and covered in diamond paste.
A mirror-polished steel plate is enthroned in the center of the movement and draws the eye of the connoisseur.

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The movement bridges - all beveled by hand - bring rigidity to the masterpiece, that is necessary for accurate chronometric results. This construction is inspired by marine chronometers, which must be accurate under all circumstances. This is also why the Saturn timepiece maintains a sporty essence.
On the baseplate decorated with a fine stippling, and hand-chamfered, one notices the steel ratchet wheel and the barrel. 

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The center wheel and the intermediary wheel are both angled, have circular-graining and are plated with yellow gold. The AkriviA logo, the "Manufacturé à Genève" inscription as well as the rest of the inscriptions are hand engraved.

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Each timepiece is unique and entirely assembled by hand by the same watchmaker. Only 10 samples of this ultra-exclusive timepiece will be manuafactured.

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Technical Description

Movement
DIMENSIONS
• Diameter: 30.00mm / Thickness: 7.40mm
NUMBER OF PARTS
• Complete movement : 286 parts / Tourbillon cage : 63 parts
NUMBER OF JEWELS
• 33 / Olive-domed and plate jewels
POWER RESERVE
• 100 hours / With chronograph engaged: 72h
CHRONOGRAPH
• Engages directly with the Tourbillon cage
• Column-wheel
• Snail type gear-trains design by AkriviA
• Steel parts decorated by inward angles and sinks
• Chronograph wheels and parts decorated by hand
MAIN PLATE
• Interior and exterior flanks finished with angles and sinks polished by hand.
• Manual circular graining
• Rhodium finish
BRIDGES
• Interior and exterior flanks decorated with 10 inward angles created and polished
by hand.
• Angles and sinks with hand graining and polishing by hand
• “Côtes de Genève” decoration
• Manual circular graining even on non-visible parts
• Finishing of all steel parts with hand made blocked and facet polishing
• All inscriptions engraved by hand (“AkriviA”; N°, “Manufacturé à Genève”, logo)
• Nickel-rhodium finish
• Hand-engraved inscriptions finished in 3N gold
TOURBILLON CAGE
• Cage pillars in Titanium
• Bridges in hand blocked and facet polished steel
• Eight hand made and polished inward angles
• Swiss anchor escapement
• 60-second rotation
• Weight of the cage: 0.45g
BALANCE WHEEL
• Gold timing screws
• Diameter 9.60 mm
FREQUENCY • 21,600 vph
DISPLAYS
• Hour and minute / Chronograph minutes and seconds / Segmented power reserve (100 hours)
Bridge side view
Dial side view
Exterior
CASE
• Available in Steel or 18K 5N red gold
• Front sapphire glass crystal with anti-reflective treatment (both sides)
• Lateral tab at 9 o’clock provides optimal ergonomic positioning of the fingers
when engaging the chronograph
• Case composed of 30 parts
• Transparent back of sapphire glass with anti-reflective treatment (both sides)
• Hand engraved inscriptions placed on the circumference
CASE DIMENSIONS
• Diameter: 43mm
• Thickness: 12.90mm
WATER RESISTANCE
• 3 ATM (30m / 100ft)
CROWN
• In steel or 18K 5N red gold with engraved and polished AkriviA logo
• Engraved circumference with “clous de Paris” decoration
DIAL
• Black PVD–coated German silver base
• Silver pigments for the hour and minute markers (steel version)
or blue pigments (red gold version)
• Brushed and rhodium finished minute and seconds display
• Brushed and rhodium finished power reserve sector
• Hand engraved, blocked and facet polished decorative inset at 12 o’ clock
• Hand engraved, blocked and facet polished decorative insert around
the tourbillon cage in steel
HANDS
• Sword shaped hour, minute, seconds and chronograph minute hands in AkriviA design
• Hands with Rhodium finish
• Power reserve in brushed German silver with rhodium finish and red lacquer
STRAP AND CLASP
• Hand-sewn black alligator
• Choice of 18K, 5N red gold deployant clasp or pin buckle, both with hand-engraved
AkriviA logo and hand stitched alligator strap

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