Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate-toned dial















Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a preview of the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 in preparation for the 2014 SIHH

 

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On the occasion of the 80th anniversary of this timepiece that has become a cult object, Jaeger-LeCoultre chose to return to the very origins of a legend by presenting the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931, directly inspired by the aesthetic codes of the historical model.


 Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Histori 1934
 
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This creation, distinguished by an ultra-thin case, contemporary dimensions and remarkably faithfulness to the original, was enthusiastically received by devotees of the Reverso and by watch connoisseurs who expressed the wish that this vintage edition should not remain a one-off model. In response to their desires, the Manufacture already introduced the Grande Reverso Rouge with a deep red dial in 2012, followed the next year by the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Blue. For 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the third member of this splendid trilogy: the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 with a chocolate-toned dial.

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The new model, entirely in keeping with its historical ascendance, vividly evokes the finest hours of Art Deco. Its shape, its colour and its materials are the ultimate expression of a movement that heralded the inception of industrial design while favouring hand craftsmanship executed to perfection. Entranced by this delightful colour palette, the eye naturally lingers on the pleasing contrasts between the glowing chocolate shade of the watch face and the pink gold of the case, including the traditional gadroons framing the dial.

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This irresistible association is further underscored by the judicious reinterpretation of the aesthetic principles governing the original. Apart from the 12 o’clock numeral, the hours are shown by baton-shaped hour-markers, while the hour and minute hands feature a dagger-type profile. The small seconds at 6 o’clock perform a once a minute rotation on the dedicated rectangular subdial. This picture of pure, restrained refinement would not be complete without a mention of the “REVERSO” inscription exactly reproducing that appearing on the historical model. Everything might seem to have been said, and yet it is only now that the distinctive emotional ties uniting an owner and his Reverso can begin to be woven.

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A new strap by Casa Fagliano






















For the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Casa Fagliano has agreed to produce hand-crafted straps in successive stages following the strict principles of time-honoured tradition in working with cordovan leather, which is renowned for its exceptional resistance.
Delivered along with each watch, the strap made in the Casa Fagliano workshops is distinguished by its elegant suppleness and hand-made mode of production that makes it truly one of a kind. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is proud of this partnership that further strengthens the ties between polo and the Reverso.

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Technical Specifications
Reference: Q2782560
 
Movement: 
Mechanical with manual winding
Calibre 822/2 Jaeger-LeCoultre designed, assembled and decorated by hand
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Jewels: 19
Height: 2,95 mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Dial:  
Chocolate with numerals and powdered hours
Hands: Baton faceted and gold plated
Case:  
18K Rose Gold
Height: 46.8 mm
Width: 27.4 mm
Thickness: 7.3 mm
Finish: Polished
Glasses: Sapphire
Mention "1000 Hours Control" on the bottom
Sealing: Up to 3 bars
Bracelets
Leather matte brown alligator 20/18
2nd bracelet cordovan leather, manufactured by the "Casa Fagliano" Buenos Aires
Clasp: 
Buckle in 18K pink gold

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Saturday, December 7, 2013

PANERAI - Luminor 1950 3 Days Left-Handed - 47mm PAM 577


OFFICINE PANERAI Luminor 1950 3 Days Left-Handed - 47mm PAM577  2013

SIHH 2014

There are some watches which on their first appearance come across as true icons of a brand, from their ability to communicate their identity and history through their design. One of these is the Luminor 1950 3 Days – 47mm, the clean lines of which have an immediate appeal for enthusiasts looking for a model in the simplicity of which all the vintage fascination of Panerai watches can be found. 

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The Luminor 1950 3 Days is now also available in a version enhanced by another historic detail: Officine Panerai presents the left-handed version, in which the winding crown and the crown-protecting device are at 9 o’clock, on the left side of the case.

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 Left-handed watches are very much part of the history of Panerai. The commandos of the Italian Navy had to wear several instruments on their wrists at once: not only the watch, indispensable for synchronising their attacks and for keeping track of the length of time spent in the depths of the sea, but also the compass and depth gauge.
 
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For convenience, some of them preferred to wear the watch on the right wrist, and for them Panerai created the watch with the winding crown on the left side, as can be seen in some rare contemporary examples which still survive today.

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The steel case of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days has a unique detail which distinguishes it from the classic Luminor 1950 case: the caseband has a cusped shape, hinting at the form of a cushion case. This little detail, picked up directly from some examples of the period, tells the story which brought about the transformation from the Radiomir, created in 1936, with a classic cushion case, to the Luminor, more massive in its proportions and identified by the device protecting the winding crown.

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Another element of great interest is the absolute purity of the black dial, with the large numerals at the cardinal points, on which the words “Luminor Panerai” are engraved in the lettering of the time. The clarity and legibility of the dial are enhanced by its sandwich structure, being formed of two superimposed plates enclosing a layer of Super-LumiNova® which guarantees a high degree of luminosity. The dial is protected not by a sapphire crystal but by a Plexiglas® one, similar to the polymethyl methacrylate used in the historic models.

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The movement of the Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days is the hand-wound P.3000 calibre with a power reserve of three days, completely developed and made in the Officine Panerai manufacture at Neuchâtel.

 Panerai Сalibre P.3000

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With a diameter of 16½ lignes, the calibre has a distinctive structure with wide bridges, two spring barrels which provide the power reserve of three days and a balance wheel 13.2 mm in diameter. The P.3000 calibre also has the rapid time-changing device, by means of which the hour hand is moved in jumps of one hour at a time, without interfering with the minute hand or the running of the watch.

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The Luminor 1950 Left-Handed 3 Days (PAM00557) is water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres (10 atmospheres). It is fitted with strap of natural, untreated leather, fastened by a brushed steel buckle inspired by that of the period model.
It is supplied with a second strap made of rubber and a spare Plexiglas® crystal.

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