Sunday, November 10, 2013

MB&F - HM5 RT in Red Gold















MB&F - Horological Machine No 5 RT Red Gold 

HM5 On the Road Again may appear relatively simple, but it’s complicated: the hour and minute displays look straightforward, but they are bi-directional jumping hours with indications inversed, reflected 90° to the vertical and magnified 20%; HM5 has a futuristic case design, but it's from the 1970s; HM5 has a mechanical movement, but it was inspired by an era when quartz was King; the rear louvres on supercars block light, but on HM5 they let it in; HM5 has exhaust pipes, but they drain water; HM5 is “On the Road Again”, but its inspiration barely left the garage.

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The last decade or two have seen an exponential growth in inventions that have revolutionised our lives. Robots may not cook dinner, but they can build cars, vacuum the home and mow the lawn. Sending a man to Mars is not a question of if, but when.
But imagine the exciting anticipation of the future in the early 1970s with the arrival of supercars, hovercrafts, the supersonic Concorde, Apollo moon landings… and high-precision quartz watches. Everything seemed possible: humanoid robots, jet-packs and flying cars. In the 1970s the future wasn’t tomorrow, it was today!

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In 1972, one plucky watch brand, Amida, decided to take on the quartz usurpers at their own game with the Digitrend, which featured a fashionably futuristic tapered case and vertical digital LED-look display powered by a mechanical movement. It looked just like a cutting-edge quartz watch and it eventually became an iconic timepiece. Unfortunately, appreciation came too late to save Amida.

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The unmistakable wedge-shaped case of HM5 On the Road Again is direct homage to the daring Amida Digitrend. However, it also takes unmistakable cues from the sleek low-slung supercars of the epoch, with louvres on their near horizontal rear windows blocking sunlight and heat. Conversely, the slide operated louvres on HM5 open to allow light in to charge on the Super-LumiNova numbers on the time disks.

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Another distinguishing feature of supercars are throaty exhaust pipes. HM5 has dual exhausts to drain water, in case – like James Bond’s Lotus in ‘The Spy Who Loved Me’ – HM5 gets wet. An inner water-resistant case keeps HM5’s Engine nice and dry.

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An optical grade sapphire prism reflects the horizontal hour and minutes so that they display vertically and a convex lens magnifies the numeral by 20% for improved legibility. The vertical forward-facing display makes HM5 an excellent driver’s watch as there is no need to lift your wrist from the steering wheel to read the display.

HM5 takes these 1970s icons and now, 40 years into the future, puts them “On the Road Again”.

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Technical details

ENGINE
Three-dimensional horological engine developed by Jean-François Mojon and Vincent
Boucard of Chronode
Powered by a Sowind gear train
Battle-axe 22k gold ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph/4Hz
Number of components: 224
Number of jewels: 30
Engine housed in a water resistant, titanium inner container
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Minutes and bi-directional jumping hours displayed by reflective sapphire crystal prism with
integrated magnifying lens
Slide to open/close louvres on case top
CASE
18k red gold and titanium with internal water resistant titanium engine container
Slide button to open/close louvres
Exhaust ports to drain water
Dimensions: 51.5mm x 49mm x 22.5mm
Number of components: 80
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ / 3atm
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
Smoked optical grade sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating and 20% magnification.
Sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.
STRAP & BUCKLE
Sculptured rubber strap, titanium tang buckle

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Saturday, November 9, 2013

GIRARD-PERREGAUX - Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland















GIRARD-PERREGAUX - Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland NEW


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A Star is Born

celebrates the art of cinema with a special edition of the Hawk Collection: the Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland. This special timepiece highlights once again Girard-Perregaux’s passion for the cinema, and its engagement to celebrate movies.

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The all-new Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland takes centre stage clad in gleaming gold and black ceramic case and bezel — a material whose very existence is emblematic of the progression of time and science. The watchmakers pay playful homage to Hollywood with a keen eye toward the materials they used with alternating matte and gloss finishes accentuating the relief carving of the case.

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The dial works mightily to increase the depth of field. Luminescent keys (all the better to see in a dark cinema, if you must), a worked flange, counters and strikes carved in relief fit together, inspired by the shape of the bridge.

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The chronograph functions are traditional but its performance is pervasive, thanks to the mechanical, self-winding GP03300 manufactured calibre, whose visible oscillating weight by the sapphire recalls the Brand’s identity codes.

 Girard-Perregaux GP03300



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The all-new Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland, of course, was designed in tribute to Hollywood: a dream of a watch paying fealty to the industry that makes dreams spring vividly to life.

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This timepiece also highlights the Brand’s commitment to celebrate movies. In 2012, Girard-Perregaux announced it would be the Exclusive Timekeeper and a Founding Supporter of the new Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, to be located in Los Angeles.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Ref:  49970-34-232-BB6A
Ref:  49970-34-132-BB6A
Case in steel and rubber
Case: ceramic
Bezel: pink gold
Dimensions: 44,00 mm
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire glass, secured by six screws
Water resistance: 1000 meters (100 AT M)
Calibre    
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0073
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 29.30 mm (13 ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Jewels: 61
Functions: 
hour, minute, small second, date, power reserve indicator
Strap 
Technological rubber base coated with black alligator
Folding buckle in PVD titanium with ceramic cover

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