Monday, May 15, 2017

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – BRIDGES Neo-Bridges Titanium


GIRARD-PERREGAUXBRIDGES Neo-Bridges Automatic Titanium 45 mm

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Bridges:
Gateway to the future

A futuristic extrapolation of a 19th century movement architecture now considered to be the historical signature of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux, the Neo-Bridges automatic titanium watch heralds a construction approach aimed at bringing a dramatic theatrical touch to tomorrow’s mechanical horology.

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Fundamentally retro-futurist in terms of its aesthetic approach, the Neo-Bridges automatic titanium adopts a certain vision of forward-looking horology, while remaining entirely in harmony with the history of the brand founded in 1791.

Shaping the future

At the crossroads between two worlds associating tradition and innovation, this visionary time-measuring instrument showcases one of the key directions being taken by the new image of the Manufacture, which remains consistently ahead of its time. The rich vitality of this new expression of Manufacture Girard-Perregaux’s mechanical vision takes firm root in the past in order to propel itself firmly towards the future.

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The Neo-Bridges Automatic Titanium picks up the architectural construction design codes cherished by Constant Girard, creator of the Esmeralda pocket watch that was honoured in 1889 by a first prize at the Paris Universal Exhibition. It also echoes the theatrical nature of the creations by Jean-François Bautte who, in the late 18th century, designed horological instruments employing a playful approach to displaying the passing hours in order to demystify the flow of time and thus transform watches into pure kinetic works of art. 

The dynamics of visual balance

Within this magnificently staged watchmaking show, the new GP08400 self-winding 14 ¼-ligne movement with micro-rotor forms an inseparable whole with the 45 mm-diameter titanium case that is water-resistant to 30 metres, fitted with a black alligator leather strap secured by a titanium triple folding clasp. This captivating movement featuring perfect symmetry – thanks to the judicious positioning of the micro-rotor along the same axis as the barrel drum ensuring a 50-hour power reserve – is first and foremost designed to draw the eye.

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The architecture does indeed capture the gaze, especially since it is reinforced by contemporary finishing including sandblasting, NAC treatment of the mainplate, and a PVD coating on the delicately curved bridges. This ensemble with its sophisticated graphic design is endowed with an infinitely hypnotic charm thanks to the presence at 6 o’clock of a large 10.15 mm-diameter variable-inertia balance wheel oscillating at a frequency of 3 Hertz (21,600 vibrations per hour). The generous size of the balance makes it less subject to disturbances and therefore more accurate.

A sense of stage-setting

The Neo-Bridges watch was designed by the style department as a contemporary transcription of the aesthetic codes dear to the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. To magnify these design principles, the engineers and watchmakers have endowed the finely crafted titanium case measuring 45 mm in diameter and 12.17 mm thick with alternately polished and satin-brushed finishing.

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This coherent ensemble is fitted with a “Box” sapphire crystal and a minimalist dial, as well as a transparent sapphire crystal caseback – thereby providing ample space in which to read the time, as well as to discover this fascinating 208-part mechanism. The latter epitomises the art of harnessing and propelling towards the future the full stylistic power of the historical timepieces that have been forging the renown of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux for more than 225 years.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: BRIDGES 

Model: Neo-Bridges Titanium

References: 84000-21-001-BB6A

Movement
Mechanical with automatic winding 
Calibre Reference: GP08400-0001.
Diameter: 32.00 mm (14¼’’’)
Height: 5.45 mm
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h – (3 Hz)
Number of components: 208
Jewels: 29
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: hours, minutes
Case
Material: Titanium
Diameter: 45.00 mm
Height: 12.18 mm
Glass: sapphire anti-reflective
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Dial
No dial, ring with suspended indexes
Hands: skeleton with luminescent material 
Strap
Material: dark-grey alligator with stitching
Buckle: titanium triple folding buckle


Year: 2017

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Press Contact
Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com
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Thursday, May 11, 2017

SPEAKE-MARIN – The One & Two Edition


















SPEAKE-MARINJ-Class The One &Two Piccadilly Gold & Titanium Limited Edition

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One & Two

This year, Speake-Marin launches a new watch in the J-Class Collection equipped with a new in-house movement, the SMA01: The One in red gold & the Two in titanium.

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Speake-Marin presents this year a new watch, One & Two. A special name for two special watches equipped for the first time in the J-Class collection by an in-house movement.

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This new watch is declined in 18k red gold and in titanium, but also in two sizes: 38mm and 42mm. It belongs to the J-Class Collection, the most classical collection of Speake-Marin.

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Speake-Marin chooses to fully skeletonized the grey dial to reveal the majority of the new movement developed by Speake-Marin: the SMA01. This movement required many months of time to be developed, designed and realised by the Speake-Marin team.

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The movement was kept slim by integrating the micro automatic mass flush with the bridges. Each movement carries a COSC certificate assuring its precision and reliability, accentuating the technical magnificence of this stunning calibre which is entirely assembled and adjusted by hand.

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This new movement is nested in a new version of the Piccadilly, an evolution of the iconic case of Speake-Marin.

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The new case is more technical than the original allowing the straps to be closer integrated in the case. Moving the crown into the case further plus softening its aesthetics whilst maintaining its original DNA.

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The bezel and case back slightly overlap the central case section altering the overall 'look' of the watch whilst maintaining the iconoclastic feel of Speake-Marin.

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In addition, the glass traditionally set in to the bezel now has altered to a box form, reducing the overall thickness of the case and accentuating the technical aspect of the watch.

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For this dial, no numerals. The Swiss brand wanted to keep a refined design and choose to dress it with a small seconds indication at 1.30.

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This is a small touch but unique to have a small seconds hand at this position, this adds a greater equilibrium to the graphic aspect of the dial when coupled with the aesthetics of the barrel and rotor.

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A change from the other watches of the J-Class Collection, certainly, but respecting all the codes of Speake-Marin with its pure and clear design of the dial in the new Piccadilly case and the Speake-Marin style hands or the characteristic pleated crown.

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Each piece of this collection is limited edition.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: J-Class

Model: The One & Two 

REFERENCE: 12 42 06 110 Titanium
REFERENCE: 11 38 06 110 Titanium
REFERENCE: 12 42 06 110 Gold
REFERENCE: 11 38 06 110 Gold

MOVEMENT:
Calibre SMA01
Self-winding movement with micro-rotor
JEWELLING:     31 jewels
POWER RESERVE:     52 hours
FREQUENCY:     28,800 v.p.h / 4Hz
INDICATIONS: Hour, minutes and small seconds
POWER RESERVE: ~ 52 hours
CASE:
Piccadilly case
  • 18K Red Gold
  • Ttitanium (Grade 5)
DIAMETER: 38 or 42 mm
Thickness 10.50 mm
Front and back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating
Case-back circumference engraving: “Speake-MarinThe Piccadilly Limited Edition
WATER RESISTANCE: 3 bar (30 meters)
DIAL:
Open dial
Small seconds indication at 1.30
HANDS:
Speake-Marin style hands
  • Golden
  • Cobalt coloured steel
STRAP: 
Hand-made, natural alligator strap
  • Dark Brown 
  • Black
BUCKLE  Pin buckle Red gold in titanium


Limitation: Unique piece
  • Red Gold 10 pieces
  • Ttitanium 38 pieces

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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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Wednesday, May 10, 2017

TUDOR – Heritage Black Bay S&G


TUDORHeritage Black Bay S&G

TUDOR’s famous Heritage Black Bay divers’ watch is now available in yellow gold and steel version. Fitted with the Manufacture Calibre MT5612, the Heritage Black Bay S&G model also introduces the date function to the Black Bay 1/5 family.

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An emblematic model celebrating 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches with extraordinary craftsmanship. Enhancing the Heritage Black Bay with yellow gold creates a new version named S&G, for Steel & Gold.

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In this version the lines and proportions of the Black Bay are retained, while the rotating bezel and the winding crown are made from yellow gold. The steel bracelet is also dressed in this precious metal on its central link giving it a more formal feel.

THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5612

This is a variation of the movement first presented by TUDOR in 2015 and has been developed for the Heritage Black Bay S&G model. A date function features for the first time in the Black Bay family, adding to the hour, minute and second functions that are a feature of all Black Bay models.

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A high-performance calibre of superb precision and proven robustness. With a 70-hour power reserve, a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to re-set and wind it. Beating to a frequency of 28,800 beats/hour or 4 Hz, the movement is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring.

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 This is held in place by a traversing bridge, guaranteeing its robustness. Furthermore, the movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

A “RIVETED” BRACELET

The bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet. The links also had a distinct stepped construction.

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These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links. Available in two designs, it also comes on a brown aged leather strap and folding clasp delivered with an additional brown fabric strap. Made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family from from the Saint-Étienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR’s Heritage line.

THE ORIGINS OF THE BLACK BAY INSPIRATION

TUDOR derived the characteristic aesthetic elements of the Heritage Black Bay S&G model from its history. The overall shape, as well as the domed dial and crystal, come from the first TUDOR divers’ watches.

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 TUDOR OYSTER Prince SUBMARINER Big Crown Ref. 7924 - Year 1958
===============

The prominent winding crown is a feature of the famous reference 7924 from 1958. The first TUDOR watch to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 f), known as the Big Crown. Finally, the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, are typical of the watches delivered to the French Navy in the 1970s.

THE TUDOR DIVERS’ WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. The first in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan who stated that the form of an object must follow its function. 
 
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Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch; an understated, functional and reliable tool. The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch. Each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field including some of the greatest military navies in the world.

THE HERITAGE LINE

A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand’s frst chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most important references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line.

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Unlike a traditional identical re-edition of a classic, the models in this line combine key aesthetics from history with modern day watchmaking. The standout Black Bay family, which forms part of the Heritage line, is a key example of this approach, bringing together over 60 years of TUDOR divers’ watches.

ABOUT TUDOR

TUDOR is a Swiss watchmaking brand that offers mechanical watches with sophisticated style, proven reliability and an unparalleled relationship between quality and price. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor ” was first registered as a brand on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex. In 1946, he founded the Montres Tudor SA company to produce watches that respect the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more accessible price point. Throughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice, the world over. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos and Style and since 2015 it has offered mechanical manufacture movements.

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Technical details

Collection: Heritage

Model: Black Bay S&G

Reference 79733N

CASE
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: Unidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 60-minute graduated matt black anodized aluminium disc, gold markings
Winding crown: Yellow gold screw-down winding crown,
with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodised aluminium winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
DIAL
Black, domed
MOVEMENT
Manufacture Calibre MT5612,
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 31.8 mm
Thickness: 6.5 mm
Jewels: 26 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
FUNCTIONS
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting
BRACELET
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch
Additional fabric strap with buckle included in the box

Retail PRICE
With bracelet: Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 4,750.–

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With Strap 2 version : Swiss price (VAT incl.) CHF 3,600.–

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Year: 2017
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Saturday, May 6, 2017

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Laureato Skeleton


GIRARD-PERREGAUXLaureato Skeleton


LAUREATO SKELETON

Solids and voids. Lines and curves. Interior and exterior. While these concerns are very much those of an architect, they undeniably define the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Skeleton. As the latest addition to the Laureato family, entirely rethought and richer than ever, this watch with a metal bracelet and a skeleton movement is an exercise in horological architecture. Girard-Perregaux has drawn upon the origins of the Laureato, upon the noblest inspirations and upon its horological expertise. The rigorous and sensual rhythm of the curves of the Laureato Skeleton give unique strength to an openworked watch in which the content harmoniously matches the container.

The Laureato was born under the finest auspices. Designed by a Milan-based architect in the 1970s, it immediately asserted itself as an object embodying a wealth of art, history and shapes: a true watchmaking icon. The spirit of this creation remains intact and is indeed enhanced in the latest Laureato generation that Girard-Perregaux launched in 2016 and is enriching in 2017.

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Its metal bracelet composed of links featuring alternating matt and satin-brushed surfaces; its case of which the lugs form an integral part of its design; its polished octagonal bezel framed by a circle: everything about it reveals a quest for balanced proportions and ergonomics. This approach to watch design has given rise to a distinctively styled and intense envelope, which protects and contains the functional organs – a vision identical to that of an architect. In this case, everything is concentrated within the few cubic centimetres of the Laureato Skeleton, which is viewed and experienced up close and personal, directly against the skin.

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The Laureato Skeleton has an exterior and an interior. Much like the Guggenheim Museum in New York, by Frank Lloyd Wright, this interior and this exterior are engaged in constant dialogue. The envelope is a rigorously designed 42 mm-diameter, 10.88 mm-thick case, available in stainless steel or 18K pink gold, matching the bracelet. It is impeccably proportioned and composed of well-defined curves and clean-cut lines.

The content is a skeletonised Fine Watchmaking movement, Calibre GP01800-0006, forming veritable mechanical lace motifs. Positioned at 12 o’clock amid this elegantly filigree-worked metal structure is its balance, a reminder that the Laureato Skeleton is a living creation with a steadily beating heart. The excellent precision of this model is further reinforced – for the first time in a GP1800 movement – by the use of a variable-inertia balance.  

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Calibre GP01800-0006 is entirely developed, produced, finished and assembled within the walls of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. It drives the hours, minutes and small seconds in an openworked interpretation graced with exceptional finishing. It has undergone extensive skeleton craftsmanship. The bridges and mainplate are replaced by a clever interplay of solids and voids, alternating between the structural framework and inhabitable spaces, like the interior of a baroque-style Italian cathedral such as St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

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The walls and columns are in this instance metal curves. The calibre is airy and yet perfectly solid. Like the Gateway Arch of St. Louis, Missouri, designed by Eero Saarinen, the Laureato Skeleton draws its strength from its transparency. This see-though nature is reinforced by the rotor carved from a block of 18K pink gold and openworked like the rest of the movement. This component that normally covers and conceals other elements thus allows the light to flood through the Laureato Skeleton like a stained-glass window. Instead of a dial, the movement is rimmed by suspended hour-markers. Like the Place de l’Etoile in Paris, they elegantly distribute the information provided by the watch.

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The otherwise bare curves of this skeleton movement are adorned with chamfering that accentuates their outlines. They are hand-crafted by qualified artisans of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux. The remaining surface of the movement is given a matt effect by satin brushing, creating a texture that catches and holds the light. The overall anthracite treatment gives a dark glow that sets the perfect finishing touch to the contrasting effects enlivening the Laureato Skeleton.

An intense, solid yet supple exterior. A graceful and sensual, yet structurally rigid interior. Luminous on the outside and dark inside. The Laureato Skeleton is a vector of emotions as well as functions. A construction echoing the intentions of Oscar Niemeyer when he created Brasília, the Brazilian capital. The Laureato Skeleton is designed to find its way unscathed through time and to testify through successive ages to the structural and technical mastery cultivated by Girard-Perregaux.


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Technical Specifications

Model: Laureato Skeleton

Case
Material:
  • Stainless stee
  • 18K pink gold
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Thickness: 10.88 mm
Crystal: sapphire glareproofed on both sides
Case-back: sapphire
Water resistance:
100 metres for the stainless steel version,
50 meters for the pink gold version
Dial
Peripheral ring with suspended luminescent hour-markers
Hands: baton-type, luminescent

Movement
Calibre Reference: GP01800-0006, skeletonised
Winding: automatic, via a skeletonised 18K gold rotor
Diameter: 30.6 mm (13¼’’’)
Thickness: 4.16 mm
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Number of components: 173
Jewels: 25
Power reserve: 54 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 10 o’clock
Bracelets
In stainless steel or 18K pink gold with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces
Triple-blade folding clasp, in stainless steel or 18K pink gold

References
Steel Model : 81015-11-001-11A
Pink gold Model : 81015-52-002-52A

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Press Contact
Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com
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Friday, May 5, 2017

ROLEX – Oyster Perpetual YACHT-MASTER 40 Everose


ROLEXOyster Perpetual YACHT-MASTER 40 Everose Gold Multicolour Sapphire Set Bezel

GEM - SETTING IN MANY HUES

Rolex is introducing a gem - set version of the Oyster Perpetual Yacht­-Master 40, its emblematic nautical watch. In 18 ct Everose gold with a black gloss finish dial, it features a bidirectional rotatable bezel adorned with multicolour sapphires, green tsavorites, and a triangular diamond at 12 o’clock.

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Waterproof, precise and reliable, the Yacht-Master 40 embodies the privileged ties between Rolex and the world of sailing that stretch back to the 1950s. This version is equipped with the innovative, elastomer Oysterflex bracelet developed and patented by Rolex.

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Like all Rolex watches, the new Yacht-Master 40 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015, which ensures singular performance on the wrist.

THE OYSTER CASE, 
SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS

The Yacht-Master 40’s Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness. Its characteristically shaped middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct Everose gold. Its fluted case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.

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The winding crown is protected by a crown guard that is an integral part of the middle case. Fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, the crown screws down securely against the case, providing watertight security akin to a submarine’s hatch.

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The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Yacht-Master 40’s high-precision movement.

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 3135

The Yacht-Master 40 is equipped with calibre 3135, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Its architecture, manufacturing quality and innovative features make it singularly precise and reliable.

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The oscillator, the true heart of the watch, has a blue Parachrom hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive alloy.

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Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. A Rolex overcoil ensures its regularity in any position.

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Calibre 3135 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 48 hours.

OYSTERFLEX BRACELET AND SAFETY CLASP

The Yacht-Master 40 is fitted on an Oysterflex bracelet, developed and patented by Rolex. This technical bracelet combines in a singular way the robustness and reliability of a metal bracelet with the flexibility, comfort and aesthetics of an elastomer strap.

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At its core lies a superelastic metal blade overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer, a material that is particularly resistant to environmental effects and very durable. The Oysterflex bracelet is also fitted with an 18 ct Everose gold Oysterlock safety clasp that prevents accidental opening.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION

Like all Rolex watches, the Yacht-Master 40 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that the watch has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, which exceed watchmaking norms and standards.

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The certi-fication applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer after casing is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day, or more than twice that required of an official chronometer.

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The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

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Technical details

Model: Oyster Perpetual YACHT-MASTER 40

Case ref. 116695 SATS |  Oysterflex bracelet
Superlative Chronometer certification*

CASE
Type: Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Diameter: 40 mm
Material: 18 ct Everose gold, polished finish
Bezel: Set with 32 sapphires, 8 tsavorites and 1 diamond
Case back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Winding crown: Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
Crown guard: Integral part of the middle case
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire; Cyclops lens over the date with double anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness: 100 metres (330 feet)
MOVEMENT
Calibre 3135, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Precision: −2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Oscillator Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
Rolex overcoil
Large balance wheel with variable inertia
High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
Traversing balance bridge
Jewelling: 31 rubies
Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
Functions
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock with rapid-setting
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
DIAL
Colour: Black, gloss finish
Hour markers: Highly legible Chromalight appliqués (long-lasting luminescence) in 18 ct pink gold
Hands: 18 ct pink gold, Chromalight
BRACELET
Type: Oysterflex
Material: Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer
Clasp: Oysterlock folding safety clasp in 18 ct Everose gold


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