Monday, October 7, 2013

Girard-Perregaux - Haute Horlogerie Tourbillon with three gold Bridges


Girard-Perregaux - Haute Horlogerie Tourbillon with three Gold Bridges  NEW


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Adjustment of one gold Bridge on the movement


The design of the famous Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with three gold Bridges not only balances aesthetics with technical prowess: it establishes a new vision of watchmaking - symbolic and eternal - creating a burst of emotion, nourished by a fantastic story and born in the hands of talented watchmakers.

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After more than 125 years of existence, the mechanism, which was patented in 1884, is still making the news. Available in a pink or white gold case, the mainplate is now sanded to enhance the three gold Bridges and the openworked barrel drum opens onto the micro-rotor.

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Adjustment of the tourbillon

The new fine features of the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with three gold Bridges underscore this architecture over which time has no command.

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Born in the hands of Constant Girard-Perregaux in the nineteenth century, the three Bridges movement is a revolution in the history of fine watchmaking. With it, the mechanism becomes a design feature in its own right, extending beyond a solely technical function.

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Adjustment of the tourbillon on the movement

The Tourbillon with three gold Bridges won supreme recognition in the form of a gold medal at the Paris International Exhibition in 1889 for bringing together all the know-how of Girard-Perregaux with an entire chapter of watchmaking history.

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Within a 41 millimeter diameter, which fits the wrist perfectly, the three, arrow-shaped parallel Bridges form the perfect balance. Their geometry allows for no mistakes as any imperfection would be revealed. Entirely hand-made, the finishings require such dexterity that they can only be done by a handful of craftsmen.

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Assembly of the three gold Bridges on the movement

The Bridges are "rounded-off": the bevelling gives them a domed shape, along their entire length, a perfect curve. Light glides and reflects off their "mirror polish" finishing, offering a captivating contrast with the matt mainplate.

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At 12 o'clock, the barrel drum is meticulously skeleton-crafted to reveal the oscillation of the elegant and ingenious platinum micro-rotor. The tourbillon system is also the subject of particular care as its 80 components need to be assembled in a 10 millimeter diameter.

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Adjustment of the hands

 The cage, like the escapement and pallets bridge are chamfered and hand-polished as are the gold adjustment screws.

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Casing

The GP09600 self-winding movement operates in the background. Entirely designed and assembled in the Manufacture's workshops, it offers the qualities of the greatest fine watchmaking mechanisms: those that strike the perfect balance between art and technique.

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Adjustment of the crown

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Adjustment of the case-back on the case

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Ref:  99193-53-002-BA6A (white gold case)
Ref:  99193-52-002-BA6A (pink gold case)

  Case pink or white gold
Dimensions: 41,00 mm
Glass: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by 6 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
  Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 31.00 mm (13 3/4 ‘’’)
Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h - (3 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Jewels: 31
Number of components: 256
Spiral: Philips terminal curve
Mainplate: sanded and pearled finishing, hand-polished chamfers
Bridges: “rounded-off” three gold Bridges, arrow-shaped, chamfered
and hand-polished
Barrel: skeleton-crafted and engraved cover
  Calibre      
GP09600-0024 movement (white gold case)
GP09600-0022 movement (pink gold case)
Tourbillon:
– 80 components for a total 0.3 grams in weight
– one revolution per minute
– chamfered and hand-polished upper and lower cages
– chamfered and hand-polished escapement and pallets bridge
Functions: 
hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon
  Black rubber strap
Pink gold folding buckle
White gold folding buckle

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Saturday, October 5, 2013

Zenith - Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage


ZENITH - ACADEMY Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Limited Edition NEW

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ACADEMY Christophe Colomb Hurricane grand voyage
Charting a course towards the exceptional

This year, the Manufacture is pursuing its tribute to the famous navigator Christopher Columbus by introducing this heir to marine chronometers in a splendid interpretation calling upon the finest artistic crafts such as enamelling, engraving and micro-painting.

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It thereby expresses perfect mastery of these historical skills that have been adorning Zenith creations for almost 150 years. 
 
 This exceptional entirely hand-finished model issued in a 10-piece limited edition is accompanied by three major horological discoveries: a patented gravity control system; a fusée and chain transmission mechanism; and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.

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A pioneering spirit, a love of challenges and a thirst for exploration: the very same passion and the same quest for uncharted horizons guided Christopher Columbus and Georges Favre-Jacot – the former when he set sail across the vast expanse of ocean to open up a westward route towards the Indies; and the latter when he founded Zenith in 1865 by inventing the very first industrial watch manufacturing company or “Manufacture”. 

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Almost a century and a half later, the brand with the guiding star is still faithful to this pursuit of precision and innovation, as is notably illustrated by over 300 patents.  The Manufacture proved this determination in 1969 by creating the legendary El Primero automatic movement, which is still the world’s most accurate series-made chronograph. Moreover, fine watchmaking is not confined to the realm of mechanisms.

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 CAPTION
The counterweight of the gravity control system is adorned with a micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.
 
Confirming its tradition of refined watch exteriors, notably embodied in a number of enamelled pocket watches, Zenith once again delights collectors and connoisseurs of rare models by presenting the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage – a limited edition that stands out from the rest of the line by its magnificent décor. It represented a challenge not only for the artisans, but also for the watchmakers and engineers who had to rework the movement. They occasionally pushed the boundaries of feasibility in seeking to accommodate these ornamental elements within the same 45 mm-diameter case in rose gold and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal – while making no compromises on precision and reliability. The result is a vivid illustration of Zenith’s creative daring and of its ability to combine a dream mechanism with exceptional decorative touches stemming from the most prestigious artistic crafts. 
 
Technical sophistication reigns supreme on the front
 
On the dial side, Zenith opted to give pride of place to the horological feats incorporated in the watch, while maintaining an open architecture providing a chance to admire its three original mechanisms in action: the barrel with its fusée and chain transmission (at 10.30 and 1.30), gyroscopic gravity control system, and the high-frequency regulating organ at 6 o’clock. Yet this technical, three-dimensional appearance does not preclude considerable aesthetic sophistication, as well as the use of the finest artistic crafts that Zenith is devoted to perpetuating.

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The three gold subdials (hours/minutes at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 4 o’clock) are finely guilloché, enamelled in white and fitted with blued steel hands and screws echoing the grand watchmaking traditions.

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CAPTION
Engraving is followed by the delicate art of applying the lacquer.
 
The plate has been entirely hollowed out by hand so as to leave only the Zenith logo and a flurry of stars standing out in relief; and the troughs thus created have been filled with midnight blue lacquer. The counterweight of the gravity control system has also been enhanced with a sophisticated and poetic touch by a hand-crafted micro-painted depiction of the Southern hemisphere.
 
The back is an open travel invitation
 
The back of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage springs a big surprise with a vividly coloured and lively evocation of the famous navigator’s many adventures. This authentic miniature painting was created by the finest specialists in various artistic crafts using a sophisticated system of gold appliques fixed directly on the movement. In the foreground, on either side of the mechanism reminiscent of the gimbal suspension typical of marine chronometers, one may admire the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus along with a sextant, the astronomical instrument serving to calculate longitude.

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CAPTION 
The manually micro-engraved décor portrays the vessel in an amazing wealth of details.

The background bears a reproduction of the Santa Maria, the flagship with which Columbus sailed on his first voyage in 1492. The tiny manually cut-out and micro-engraved décor depicts the vessel in abundantly rich detail, particularly in terms of the ropes and rigging. The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross – replaced on one of them by Zenith’s famous guiding star in a nod to connoisseurs. Behind the sailboat, the going-train bridge has been chosen to represent the ocean with a background engraved with tiny waves and then coated with a layer of translucent lacquer. In the background, the barrel bridge opens up the horizon with a micro-painted décor depicting a sky divided into day and night.

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CAPTION 
In the foreground, the finely engraved portrait of Christopher Columbus.
 
In a subtle detail, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have arranged the movement structure in such a way as to reveal a small gilded gear train evoking sunrise or sunset. Integrating this décor called for a wealth of ingenuity, including finding points to which the applique elements could be fixed, while reducing the movement thickness and the spaces between the calibre and the ornamentation to an absolute minimum (less than a tenth of a millimetre beneath the sails). Entirely hand-finished by artisans gifted with great dexterity, the fabulous adornment of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage makes each watch a unique work of art – and a true collector’s watch.

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CAPTION 
The various sails, crafted in enamel on a cloisonné base using an engraved champlevé technique, are adorned with the famous red cross.

The quest for precision at the very heart of the movement

While Christopher Columbus pushed back the frontiers of the known world, this model named after him pushes the boundaries of time measurement by combining three mechanisms guaranteeing enhanced precision: a regulating organ with a high oscillating frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour) for dividing time into tenths of a second; a fusée and chain transmission system compensating for the inevitable variations in the force of a barrel while it is unwinding; and a patented gravity control module serving to neutralise the effects of gravity on the rate of a watch.
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In other words, it successfully solves the problems relating to actually wearing the watch (gravity) and to the length of time it can run independently (a drop in torque), while simultaneously ensuring remarkable precision in time measurement (linked to the oscillation speed of the balance). These feats are achieved by an exceptional movement comprising 939 parts, including 354 for the calibre itself that in turn houses the 173 elements of the gravity control module; while the fusée and chain system comprises 585 parts. 
 
Fusée and chain transmission ensuring constant force
As a mechanical watch gradually winds down, the movement loses amplitude (corresponding to the balance-wheel’s angle of oscillation) and thus becomes less accurate. The fusée and chain transmission system serves on the contrary to keep the driving force perfectly stable throughout the full power reserve – with the helicoidal shape of the fusée compensating for the progress reduction in the force of the barrel.

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The majority of 16th, 17th and 18th century pocket watches were equipped with a fusée, but today very few watch manufacturers are capable of transposing and fitting this mechanism within the confines of a wristwatch. With the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, stemming from two full years of development, Zenith has now entered this highly exclusive club.

Transmission between the barrel and fusée is handled by an 18 cm-long chain comprising 585 parts. This highly complex construction features alternating double and intermediate links. Once assembled, it is capable of withstanding a traction force of more than 3 kilos.

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Throughout the power reserve, the mainspring transmits its energy to the fusée via a chain that wraps itself around the barrel. By adjusting the variations in tension, the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train – and thence to the silicon escape-wheel fitted inside the gyroscopic carriage. While it takes more than 50 hours (the power-reserve duration) for the chain to wrap itself around the barrel, winding via the stem provides a fascinating sight. These few seconds enable the fusée and the barrel to turn in opposite directions so that the chain wraps itself back around the fusée.

The shape of the fusée was dictated by the optimal force that the Zenith master-watchmakers wished to give the barrel. Its grooved conical contours as well as its dimensions are the result of lengthy and particularly complex complications performed for each of the seven construction stages. This fusée could doubtless never have been created without the full integration of all professions (notably including movement prototype making) cultivated in the Manufacture Zenith, nor without the use of sophisticated equipment. Such is indeed one of the core strengths of an integrated Manufacture.

Gravity control: defying gravity
 While fusée and chain transmission eliminates variations in isochronism (the equal duration of the oscillations), the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage also cancels out another effect that is detrimental to the rate of a mechanical watch: the influence of gravity.
Working on the principle that keeping the regulating organ in a horizontal position engenders the best possible balance-wheel amplitude and thus results in optimal timekeeping precision, Zenith devised and patented a revolutionary module enabling the “heart” of the movement and the escapement to remain constantly in this position.

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An avant-garde system brilliantly illustrating the creative daring of the Manufacture, the gravity control system is also a tribute to history, since it is inspired by the marine chronometers that Zenith used to produce, borrowing from these legendary instruments the principle of gimbal suspension introduced in the 16th century on marine compasses so that they would stay horizontal despite the pitching and rolling of the boat.

The gravity control system with its self-regulating gyroscopic mechanism serves to maintain the regulating organ in a permanently horizontal position whatever the angle of the wrist and thereby represents the ultimate evolution of the marine chronometer. The brand with the guiding star is the only watch manufacturer to master this system – duly rewarded in the “Best Complicated Watch” category at the 2011 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix – that it invented after five years of intense development.

A stylish presentation box
 
Such an exceptional model deserved to be presented to its best advantage. The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage comes in a precious mahogany box featuring ox bone inlays and that can also serve as a humidor with a capacity of 80 cigars. In homage to Christopher Columbus, this box is adorned with a screen-printed motif on parchment-style papyrus reproducing Waldseemüller’s planisphere (1507), the first world map to mention the name “America”.


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A magnificent ocean voyage and a splendid voyage to the heart of the infinitely small: with this limited edition combining fine watchmaking and artistic crafts, Zenith is setting out to conquer fascinating new horizons, inspired as ever by a blend of daring, authenticity and pleasure.


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ACADEMY Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage

·    1st CHRISTOPHE COLOMB MODULE WITH FUSÉE AND CHAIN TRANSMISSION
·    CONSTANT-FORCE FUSÉE AND CHAIN TRANSMISSION CONNECTED TO THE BARREL
·    TRIBUTE TO THE FAMOUS EXPLORER
·    HAND-CRAFTED GOLD ELEMENTS SCREWED TO THE MOVEMENT: MICRO-ENGRAVING,
MICRO-PAINTING AND ENAMELLING ON A CLOISONNÉ BASE USING AN ENGRAVED CHAMPLEVÉ TECHNIQUE
·    10-PIECE
LIMITED EDITION


Movement
El Primero 8805, hand-wound
A unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position
Calibre: 16 ½’’’ (diameter: 37 mm)
Thickness: 5.85 mm
Parts: 354
Gyroscopic carriage composed of 173 parts
Chain made of 585 parts
Jewels: 53
Frequency: 36,000 vph (5 Hz)
Over 50-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS
Off-centred hours and minutes at 12 o’clock
“Gravity Control” self-regulating module at 6 o’clock
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
Power-reserve indication at 3 o’clock
Fusée and chain transmission beneath the hours/minutes dial
Case, dial and hands

18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 14.80 mm/21.80 mm
(with domed sapphire crystal)
Cambered sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides, domes protecting the Christophe Colomb module
Water resistance 3 ATM
Dial: 3 enamelled gold dials
Hour-markers: black lacquered
Hands: blued steel

Reference 
18.2211.8805/36.C713
Brown alligator leather strap with rose gold triple folding clasp
 
🔰Edition - Only of ✅ 10 timepieces

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Friday, October 4, 2013

DuBois et fils - DBF001-07 BIG DATE Chronograph











DuBois et fils - DBF001-07 BIG DATE Chronograph Limited Edition

The first DuBois et fils watch with metal band

The Swiss heritage brand presents its first watch model with a metal band.

Le Locle, 1 October 2013 – Today DuBois et fils presented its first watch model with a metal band, the DBF001-07. The latest addition to the successful DBF001 watch collection has a 9-link band made from high-quality stainless steel 316L with a pressure snap flip-lock. The flat, screwed together elements made from matte and polished stainless steel punctuate the sporty note of this exclusive timepiece.

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The limited to 99 editions chronograph DBF001-07 has the same high-quality standards as all the other models from the DBF collection. The round case made from stainless steel 316L (41.5 mm diameter) is waterproof up to 5 ATM and houses an automatic basic calibre 2892-DD4500 from the Swiss factory ETA SA. Supplemented with the Dubois Dépraz module calibre 4500, the piece has a twin-disc large date and a chronograph mechanism with stop times of up to 12 hours.

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This ensures for the highest precision and reliability. Beneath the scratch-proof, double-sided anti-reflective-coated sapphire glass is a black/anthracite guilloche dial, which perfectly contrasts the appliqued white numerals. The red colour accents of the seconds hand and the chronograph counter enhance the dynamic visual appearance of the DBF001-07.


The DBF001-07 can now be ordered via the DuBois et fils Online Shop


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Technical details

DBF001-07 BIG DATE Chronograph


CASE, DIAL & HANDS
Material: stainless-steel 316L,
polished and brushed
Diameter: 41.50 mm
Diameter opening: 34.40 mm
Crystal front and back: box-shaped
sapphire crystal with anti-reflection
treatment on both sides
Water-resistance: 5 ATM
Dial: black and anthracite-toned guilloché
Indexes & Numerals: rhodium-plated
Arabic numerals Superluminova SLNC1
Hands: rhodium-plated
MOVEMENT
ETA2892-DD4500, automatic movement
Dubois-Dépraz 4500 big date
Calibre: 13 1/2``` (Diameter: 30 mm)
Height: 7.50 mm
Jewels: 49
Frequency: 28800 A/h
Power reserve: 44 hours
Finishing: nickel-plated oscillating weight
with «DUBOIS et fils» pattern
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Small seconds counter at 3 o’clock
Big date / quick set
Chronograph:
30-minute counter at 9 o’clock
12-hour counter at 6 o’clock
STRAP & BUCKLE
Stainless steel 316L with butterfly folding
clasp and push button release
Screwed nine-piece solid links
Polished and brushed

LIMITED EDITION 99

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Thursday, October 3, 2013

Hermès - Arceau Lift Flying Tourbillon Edition



Hermès - Arceau LIFT Flying Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW

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The first Hermès flying tourbillon watch

The Arceau Lift flying tourbillon watch is inspired by the historical premises of Hermès at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

The double H topping the tourbillon carriage and the barrel bridge of the Arceau Lift reproduces one of the emblematic motifs featured in the interior design of the boutique. Testifying to the enthusiasm for wrought-iron work in the early 20th century, it appears in a number of details including the entrance, the handrails, the bannisters – and above all above the door of the Lift installed in 1923 and after which it is named. More than just a pattern that would subsequently inspire other creations, Lift symbolises the union between the Hermès and Hollande families in 1900 through the marriage of Emile Hermès, grandson of the House founder, and Julie Hollande.

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This motif has now been given a watchmaking reinterpretation by setting the stage for one of the most demanding complications: the flying tourbillon. The tourbillon does indeed appear to be flying and its elegant rotations are accompanied by the double H, whereas the second Lift motif above the barrel bridge in the upper part of the watch remains fixed in its appointed place.

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Arceau Lift represents an authentic technical feat driven by Calibre H1923, thus named in reference to the date when the elevator was installed in the boutique. Certain parts of the multi-layered movement form a dial with a raised chevron motif, alternating between purely decorative and more specifically horological finishes.
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Vividly displaying the excellence of this exceptional mechanism, the components of Calibre H1923 are indeed finished with the special care demanded by watchmaking traditions. The bevelling on the bridges, wheels and screws is entirely done by hand, while the 12 o’clock jewel surround, as well as the double H topping the tourbillon carriage, feature the mirror-polishing technique also known as specular polishing.
  
This complication may be admired from the dial side and is also revealed through an opening carved out in the back of the gold case, bearing the Hermès ex-libris.

Arceau Lift is fitted with an alligator strap crafted in the workshops of La Montre Hermès, and each of these 176 timeless limited edition watches is engraved with a unique individual number.

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Press release
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TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION
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 References: 039010WW00 AR5.970.220/MHA

Case: 

Shape/dimensions Round, 43 mm diameter
Material 5N 750 rose gold (83 g)
Crystal Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Case-back Sapphire crystal on tourbillon cag,
engraved ex-libris motif
Inter-horn width 22 mm
Water-resistance To 3 atm
Dial:
Silvered flange. 4N-glided hands
Movement:
Type Mechanical hand-wound movement,
made in Switzerland (H1923)
Diameter 32.6 mm (14 ½’’’)
Thickness 5.75 mm
Power Reserve 90 hours
Jewelling 18 jewels
Frequency Oscillations at 21’600 vibrations
per hour / 3Hz
Decoration Chamfered and polished by hand,
polished screws
Functions:
Hour, minute
Distinctive features Flying tourbillon,
tourbillon escapement,
flying tourbillon cage adorned with the «Lift» motif
Buckle:
17 mm safety folding clasp
in 5N 750 rose gold ( 24.87 g)
Strap:
Matt Havana Alligator


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