Monday, September 9, 2013

Ateliers DeMonaco - Ronde d’Or Grand Prix of Monaco 1965 Limited Edition














Ateliers DeMonaco - Ronde d’Or Grand Prix of Monaco 1965 Limited Edition NEW

Since its incorporation, Ateliers DeMonaco has made it clear that one of the voids it would like to fill is to be committed to deliver bespoke pieces the ultimate testament of personalised craftsmanship to serve the luxury consumer of the 21 century.

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The movement we used for this watch is our own in-house deve- loped and patented Grand Tourbillon Xtreme Precision 1, one of the most accurate TB movements in the world.




Then, on special request, we have worked with master engraver Bernhard Ditzoff to develop the 18k white gold dial, which is an engraved 3-D interpretation of the official poster used for the Monaco Grand Prix 1965. just the hand engraving of the dial alone took over 80 hours of sculpturing, leaving the car coming out in contrast!
 
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This specific design also has historical relevance as it portrays john Surtees chased by Jackie Stewart, two icons in racing history.

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Technical Specifications 

Reference: Ronde d’Or Grand Prix of Monaco 1965
Movement: Patented XP1 minute Tourbillon
• Automatic bi-directional winding
• Curved chamfered and hand guilloche decoration on bridges
• Hand engraved bi-colored solid gold 18K rotor
• Silicium escape wheel and lever
• Alternances 28800 beats/hour (4 Hrz)
• Custom-made hand engraving on Tourbillon cage
• Sapphire Tourbillon bridge
Functions: • Hours, minutes, small seconds (6 o’clock)
Case: • Diameter 43 MM
• Height 13.1 MM
• 31 parts overall
• Ultra light Titanium core
• Curved shaped 18K white gold side panels
• Brushed, polished and assembled by hand
• See through case back
• Front and back sapphire crystal
• Multi-layered anti-reflection coating on sapphire crystal
• Hand engraved case back, secured with 4 gold screws
• Water resistant up to 3 ATM
Dial: • Solid White Gold, Hand engraved dial showing
the Monaco Grand prix of 1965
Hands: • 18K white gold hands
Strap: • Ateliers deMonaco personalized hand stitched alligater strap.
• 18 K gold folding buckle, adjustable.
• Folding clasp lock finished with curved chamfered edges engraved
Ateliers deMonaco.
Edition: • Unique piece

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Elisabeth van Pappelendam
PR & Operations Manager
Betty@ateliers-demonaco.com
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Saturday, September 7, 2013

MB&F - Legacy Machine ML No. 2















MB&F - Legacy Machine ML No. 2   NEW

The innovative minds from MB & F have been always entertaining the watch connoisseurs with the exceptional horological machines with futuristic designs and recently they have also introduced a new line - Legacy Machines, which are exceptional reinterpretations of significant horological inventions by the greatest watchmakers in history. The first model under this line, the LM No. 1 was launched in 2012 and the brand now welcomes a new member - LM 2- to the Legacy Machines line.

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 Legacy Machines are wondrous reinterpretations of significant horological inventions by the greatest watchmakers in history. So the contemporary look endowed by the otherworldly appearance of Legacy Machine No. 2’s dual flying balances, suspended high above the dial from four gracefully arcing arms, may at first appear paradoxical. But make no mistake; LM2 is a timepiece tracing its lineage back over 250 years to three of the greatest watchmakers who ever lived: Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747– 1823), Ferdinand Berthoud (1727– 1807) and Antide Janvier (1751– 1835).

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These horological legends of the 18th century are united not only by their inventive genius, but also by the fact that they have all constructed clocks and watches with two balances.  Oscillating  on  high,  the  exalted  double  balance  wheels  of  LM2  were  inspired  by,  and  pay  homage to, one of the rarest mechanisms in the history of watch-making: the dual regulator.  And rarer still, the average rates of Legacy Machine No. 2’s dual regulators are transmitted by  a differential to a single gear train, where the majority had two separate movements.

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On display under a domed sapphire crystal cupola, the dial of Legacy Machine No. 2, which is actually the top plate of the exquisitely finished movement, is an object lesson in symmetrical simplicity. Top to bottom: the white stretched lacquer sub dial at 12 o’clock, with its blued gold hour and minute hands, is visually balanced by the large, raised differential at 6 o’clock.
Left to right: the two flying balances and their escapements are identical mirror images, right
down to the position of the stud holders pinning their balance springs.

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While the levitated oscillating balance wheels of the binary regulators catch and hold the  viewer’s gaze, it is the large planetary differential sitting proud of the dial that is the real  heart of Legacy Machine No. 2. In an incredible feat of micro-engineering − and the sheer  paucity  of  timepieces  with  multiple  regulators  connected  via  a  differential  attests  to  the  enormous difficulty in creating such a complex high-precision mechanism − the differential  has three roles:
1. Transferring power to each of the regulators; 2. Receiving the individual  timing rates from each balance; and 3. Transmitting the average rate of the two regulators to  the gear train, where it finally manifests itself as the displayed time.

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The movement of Legacy Machine No. 2 was developed to MB&F’s specifications by award-winning watchmaker Jean-François Mojon (Best Watchmaker at the 2010 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) and his team at Chronode.  Acclaimed independent watchmaker  Kari  Voutilainen  ensured  that  the movement’s  aesthetic  style  was  consistent  with  high- quality traditional timepieces of the 19th century and for specifying the superlative hand- finishing.

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Immaculate  Geneva  waves,  gold  chatons,  mirror-polished  bevels  and  bridges  designed   with deliberate internal bevelled angles (which cannot be finished by machine) showcase the movement’s peerless fine finishing. Consistent with MB&F’s spirit of transparency, the   names of the two men responsible for the movement are hand engraved on the back.

Two and a half centuries after three of the world’s greatest watchmakers put two balance wheels into their movements; MB&F celebrates their pioneering works by creating LM2, a timepiece with two balances hovering outside the movement.
Legacy Machine No. 2 is available in 18k red gold, 18k white gold and a limited edition of 18 pieces in platinum 950 that features a striking sky-blue dial.
 
Even today with computer aided design programs (CAD) and ultra-high-precision machines  CNC machines, the sheer complexity of high-end mechanical watch movements requires  skilled  assembly  and  regulation  to  achieve  good  timekeeping  over  a  range  of  positions.  Whether the watch is laid flat, vertical (on its edge), crown up or crown down, slightly affects the components inside – and the balance in particular – which in turn slightly changes the timing rate.

In the 18th century, higher manufacturing tolerances coupled with low-quality oils meant that it was virtually impossible to regulate a movement to the high precision we have come to expect today. So it should come as no surprise that the greatest horologists of the period experimented with a wide variety of mechanisms to improve timekeeping.

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While Ferdinand Berthoud (1727– 1807) averaged his two regulators mechanically, Abraham- Louis Breguet (1747– 1823) and Antide Janvier (1751– 1835) both created double regulator  timepieces  using  the  phenomena  of  resonance  to  average  the  rate  of  the  two  balances,  It  should  be  noted  that  the  majority  of  dual  regulator  timepieces,  especially  those  using  resonance to couple the two systems, had two complete movements rather than just two  regulators. The fact that these horological geniuses made such a limited number of clocks and watches with double regulators (just a few each), indicates that they doubted that the reward was worth the effort. 

Nearly 100 years later, in the 1930s a few of the very best students at the Watchmaking School of the Vallée de Joux made double regulator pocket watches with the rates of two balances averaged by a planetary differential. The students usually made two pieces each – one for themselves and one for the school – and it is thought that 10 such timepieces exist.  

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Philippe Dufour, an independent watchmaker based in the Vallée de Joux saw one of these pocket watches and was inspired to create his Duality. Launched in 1996, the Duality was the first known wristwatch to feature two balances joined by a differential. And while there have been a (very) few other double balance wristwatches coupled via differentials.
 
The advantage of using a planetary differential is that the two balances beat at their natural rate,   with   the   differential   supplying   the   average   of   the   two   completely   independent frequencies. Other mechanisms when coupled have one balance slowing down or speeding up the other to achieve an average rate and this induces slight stresses in the system.However, the rarity of all dual regulator movements is testimony to the difficulty in their realisation and regulation. 

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While superficially Legacy Machine No. 2 may look like a traditional round watch, its three- dimensional architecture offers visual treats on multiple levels. What looks at first glance to be the main dial is actually the top plate of the movement, which has been finely engraved,  plated  (or  blued  for  the  platinum  model)  and  then  hand-engraved  with  Legacy  Machine below the differential.

Slightly  raised  above  the  surface  is  the  hour-minute  sub  dial,  its  fine  gold  circumference  highlighting the pure white of the stretched lacquer dial, which is created by applying and  heating multiple layers of lacquer, causing them to stretch tightly over the surface of the dial.

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The white contrasts superbly with the bright blued 18k gold hands. The hands are slightly curved to follow the slightly convex surface of the sub dial. To ensure aesthetic purity of the dial and its traditional Roman numerals, a sophisticated fixation underneath negates the necessity of visually obtrusive screws. 

The planetary differential also sits proud of the surface, supported by a stunning double- arc mirror-polished bridge inset with three large jewels. The complex differential is the key element in the double regulator system and raising it just above the movements enables the mechanism to be better appreciated.

Suspended  above  both  the  sub  dial  and  the  differential  are  the  two  oscillating  bespoke  balance wheels. The dual balances feature Breguet overcoils, inset with four fully functional timing screws. The two balances are mirror images of each other so that they react differently   to different forces.  The  distance  between  the  balance  wheels  has  been  carefully  and   deliberately calculated to avoid resonance, as this would negatively interfere with regulation.  

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Those elegant majestically curved arms suspending the flying balances are sculptural works of art in themselves. The elongated triangular cut out section could not be created by the usual method of wire electro erosion, but necessitated the creation of an electrode precisely shaped to the form of the cut out section.

Independent master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen assumed responsibility for ensuring the   historical accuracy of the style and finishing of the Legacy Machine No. 2 movement.  A finely engraved sun-ray pattern on top of the movement plate (dial side) subtly catches   the eye at certain angles without distracting attention from the pure white sub dial, flying balances and raised differential.  But  it  is  in  the  style  and  finish  of  the  bridges  and  plates  visible through the display on the back of the movement that Voutilainen has excelled in  providing  exquisite  historical  fidelity,  both  the  shape  of  elegantly  curved  bridges  and  the  traditionally wide spaces between the bridges and between the bridges and the case. 

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On the back of the movement, over-sized ruby jewels set in highly-polished countersunk  gold  chatons  provide  striking  visual  counterpoints  to  the  Geneva  waves  traversing  the  sensually curved bridges. While providing historical links with the large jewels seen in high- grade  antique  pocket  watch  movements,  the  ruby  bearings  have  a  practical  application in  reducing wear by accommodating large diameter pinions and holding more lubricating oil.

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Maximilian Büsser has had a long affinity with pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries.Virtually all horological complications we see today were not only imagined in that period,  they  were  developed  using  just  paper  and  pen  (no  sophisticated  computer  programs),  components  were  produced  to  extremely  high  precision  using  –  by  today’s  standards  –  fairly primitive machines (no electricity) and finely finished, assembled and regulated to an  incredibly high quality that we still strive to match today. Their generous size compared with  modern  wristwatches  allowed  for  uncluttered  movement  architectures  with  beautifully  shaped bridges and plates. 

While  MB&F’s  futuristic  Horological  Machines  have  a  firm  foundation  in  the  very  best  of  traditional  horology,  Büsser  wanted  to  pay  homage  to  that  rich  tradition  by  imagining  the  type of timepieces he might create if he had been born 100 years earlier, i.e. 1867 instead of   1967. With its two, flying balances raised planetary differential, historical bridge designs and classical fine-finishing, LM2 celebrates historical dual regulator watches with flair and passion. 

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Technical details

Movement
Three-dimensional horological movement developed exclusively for MB&F by Jean-François Mojon at Chronode, and Kari Voutilainen Manual winding with single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 45 hours
Differential: Planetary differential comprising 3 gears and 5 pinions
Balance wheels: Two bespoke 11mm balance wheels with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement and dials
Balance spring: traditional Breguet curve terminating with stud holder
Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz
Number of components: 241 
Number of jewels: 44
Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks
Fine finishing: superlative hand finishing throughout, respecting 19th century style;
polished internal  bevel  angles  highlighting  handcraft;
polished  bevels;  Geneva  waves;  hand-made engravings 
Functions
Hours and minutes
Planetary differential transmits the average rate of the two regulators to the single gear train 
Case
Available in 18k red gold, 18k white gold, or platinum 950 in a limited edition of 18 pieces
Dimensions: 44mm wide x 20mm high
Number of components: 45
Sapphire Crystals: High domed sapphire crystal on top and sapphire crystal on back with anti-reflective coating   on both sides
Strap 
Black or brown hand-stitched alligator strap with 18k gold tang buckle to match case

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Friday, September 6, 2013

Schofield Watch Company - Blacklamp Carbon Limited Edition


















Schofield Watch Company - Blacklamp Carbon Limited Edition NEW


Schofield Watch Company is pleased to announce the launch of its new limited edition wrist watch at SalonQP 2013, the Schofield Blacklamp Carbon



























The Blacklamp Carbon - Manual Wind Movement

In an increasingly automated world of ‘smart’ phones and watches, the manual wind offers the chance to pause, to reset, to start again; it is an act of care and precision requiring the exertion of human effort. The daily routine of winding reminds us of what an amazing little machine a mechanical watch is, allowing us to consider the intricacy of its design, its weight, temperature, texture, the sound of its tick, and so on. With increasing demands on our time the manual wind encourages us to actively engage with its keeping; noting the hours of the day, the passing of seasons.

The Blacklamp Carbon uses the powerful and robust Unitas 6498 movement. First made in the 1950s this classically austere movement is built to endure.

The Blacklamp Carbon has drawn upon elite English manufacturing. Over a year of research and development has gone into creating a proprietary material called Morta®, a special matrix of carbon fibre, hand-laid and formed into small billets. A single billet is used to create one Blacklamp watch case, making each watch subtly different from the next. Machined to the highest specification every watch case is testament to world class English engineering and precision.

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A light for every watch - Wolf Rock 49º56.72’N 05º48.50’W W15s34m23M

Situated at the western extremity of the British Isles, 4 nautical miles from the nearest point of land on the Cornish Coast, lies Wolf Rock. On top of this giant mass of felspathic porphyry rock lies Wolf Rock lighthouse. From this elegant tower a single white light flashes every 15 seconds reaching 23 nautical miles into the North Atlantic swell.

A limited edition wrist watch of only 101 pieces, each Blacklamp Carbon is uniquely named after an English lighthouse. From ‘Wolf Rock’ in the South West to ‘St Bees’ on the Cumbrian coast, each watch is denoted by the location co-ordinates of the tower and character of flash from the lamp within.

Lights from within

Within the crown of each Blacklamp Carbon wrist watch lies a Tritium gas light. These self powered lights emit a constant low level glow, too dim to be seen by day but enough to illuminate a pinprick of light from under your cuff at night.

Around the rim of the dial, set beneath the crystal, lies a ring of Moonglow®, a GLTD material developed by NASA that illuminates the dial in the dark.

The Blacklamp is accompanied by a special little torch. Made in England this 500 Lumen light can be used to activate the Moonglow ring in the dial.


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Ulysse Nardin - Monaco Limited Edition















Ulysse Nardin - MONACO Limited Edition NEW


Ulysse Nardin, Five-Time Principal Sponsor of the Monaco Yacht Show, Introduces the Limited Edition Monaco LE.





























Steering timepiece technology for the high seas for nearly 170 years;  
Ulysse Nardin stays the course with the new Monaco Limited Edition.


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With a history securely anchored to the oceans since the 19thcentury, Ulysse Nardin has accurately guided captains and their crews across continents with its marine chronometers. Embarking on a lengthy voyage of watch-making intelligence and independence, Ulysse Nardin has designed, developed and manufactured these multi-award winning instruments since its earliest existence. The dawn of international trade was its current of inspiration and continues to reverberate throughout its modern maritime creations.
 
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The official sponsor of the Monaco Yacht Show for five consecutive years, Ulysse Nardin further emphasizes its passion for precise navigation and the yachting lifestyle with the Monaco LE, a limited-edition marine chronometer of 100, each engraved and numbered. Bursting in watery blue with an exclusive dial donning a nautical graphic, the Monaco LE is the essence of the sea and is crafted accordingly to challenge a tide of temperaments.


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Constructed of titanium and stainless steel and powered by the in-house manufactured self-winding base caliber 118 (UN-118), produced with the revolutionary DiamonSil technology, the Monaco LE is yet another icon of innovation by Ulysse Nardin.
 
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Caliber UN-118 Diamonsil escapement Wheel


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Caliber UN-118 Diamonsil anchor


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Caliber UN-118 Escapement

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Caliber UN-118 Tech dwg explosion

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Possessing its own oscillator and patented hairspring, the watch features a: 60-hour power reserve indicator; water-resistant case to 100 meters; oversized small seconds register; date display at 6 o’clock; and the UN “quick setting” function for simplified forward and backward date adjustments.

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Modelled for sport and leisure above the surface and below, the Monaco LE addresses the seafaring style of the French Riviera enveloped by the customary Ulysse Nardin spirit that looks to the horizon, riding the wave of originality, ingenuity and autonomy.


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Technical Data

Limited Edition of 100 pieces
Model: Monaco Limited Edition

Ref. 1183-126LE-3/63_MON

Movement 
Caliber UN-118, 13 ¾‘’’ In-house designed movement
Escapement, patented DIAMonSIL
Oscillator : patented inertial balance wheel I 10 with silicium hairspring
50 jewels
Power-Reserve  Approximately 60 h
Winding  Self-winding
Functions 
Chronometer C.O.S.C with power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
Oversized small seconds and round date window at 6 o’clock
Forward and backward date corrector
Case 
Titanium and stainless steel
Dial with sailing boats motif
Side plate in stainless steel engraved with the number of the piece
Crown Screw down security crown
Diameter 43 mm
Water-resistance 100 m
Crystal Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back Open case back with sapphire crystal
Bracelet 
Rubber strap with two elements in titanium and folding clasp

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Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 

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Thursday, September 5, 2013

Louis Moinet - DERRICK Tourbillon Limited Edition

















Louis Moinet - DERRICK Tourbillon Limited Edition NEW


Louis Moinet’s DERRICK Tourbillon is a horological world first, combining the regality of an intricately-engineered tourbillon with the powerful majesty of a fully working representation of an oil derrick.

































The unique derrick mechanism dominates the upper half of the petrol blue dial, depicting all the iconic parts of a traditional oil well pumpjack (commonly known as a nodding donkey), including (from left to right) the distinctive horse head, walking beam and samson posts, as well as the pitman arm, counter weight and crank.

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The pumpjack, crafted in brushed aluminium, is in constant motion as it completes a pumping cycle every 15 seconds. It is visually counterbalanced by the 60-second tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which is supported by a distinctive two-armed bridge. The potent combination of the oil derrick and the tourbillon perfectly complements the silvered central hour and minute hands.

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The DERRICK Tourbillon is presented in an exceptional 18K white gold case composed of 59 different components and equipped with the Louis Moinet signature crown guard. The latter invention consists of an independent stem integrated within a watertight system and held with a plate secured by four screws. It represents a major advantage in facilitating servicing, compared to traditionally soldered stems.

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The view through the DERRICK Tourbillon display-back is almost as spectacular as the dial side, with the ‘octopus spring’ of the winding and setting mechanism taking centre stage. This ingenious component is effectively three springs in one – pull-out piece spring, lever spring and click spring – all radiating from the centre like the swirling legs of an octopus. The movement is engraved with Louis Moinet’s Côtes du Jura motif, echoing the decoration on the dial-side.
The DERRICK Tourbillon is available in an exclusive limited edition of 12 pieces


Downloads document PDF

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Technical Specifications

Model: DERRICK Tourbillon

Reference №: LM-14.70.03

Features and functions
Working representation of an oil well pumpjack in brushed aluminium
Exclusive tourbillon escapement
Petrol blue dial decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ®
Central hour and minutes
Movement
Exclusive tourbillon escapement with a representation of an oil derrick
Winding: Manual
Mechanism visible through the case-back with “octopus” spring
Oscillations: 21,600 vph
Frequency: 3 Hz
Lines: 14 ½
Power reserve: 72 hours
Tourbillon cage: One full rotation every 60 seconds
Jewels: 19
Escapement: Side lever
Decoration: “Côtes du Jura” ® engraving, blued steel screws
Case
Original design by Louis Moinet®, made up of 59 parts
Material: 18k white gold
Case diameter: 47 mm
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Caseback: Secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings
Crystals    : Two anti-reflective sapphire crystals
Dial
Petrol blue, decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ®
Strap
Strap: Louisiana alligator leather, hand-sewn, width between lugs : 24 mm
Buckle: 18k white gold & black titanium folding clasp with Louis Moinet symbol
Presentation box   
Extra large Louis Moinet Book, hand-written warranty

Limited Edition of 12 pieces

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Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Armin Strom - Racing Tourbillon Marussia F1 Team Special Edition


















ARMIN STROM - Racing Tourbillon MARUSSIA F1 Team Special Edition NEW

Armin Strom RACING TOURBILLON – a piece of racing history on the wrist



















On the occasion of its third season as official timing partner of the Marussia F1 Team, the Armin Strom Watch Manufacture is setting the trend with the presentation of two limited series RACING TOURBILLON models.

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The distinctive red elox coated and skeletonised bridges of its own in -house manufactured ATC11 – MR tourbillon movement consist of an aluminium alloy, produced from components of an original Marussia F1 Team – F1 car.

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The beauty of the hand decorated movement – a brand characteristic of Armin Strom collections– can be admired through the sapphire crystal front and back and pays testament to the Manufacture’s full spectrum of watch making skills.

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The exclusive RACING TOURBILLON watch in the Marussia F1 Team red and black colours becomes the sixth model in the Armin Strom Racing Collection.

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Technical details
Model: Racing Tourbillon / Ref. TI13 - TR.90

Movement
Armin Strom calibre ATC11- MR
Manual-winding, Tourbillon, double spring barrels
10 days power reserve, small seconds and off-centre time indications
Particularity: Bridges made from original parts of an F1 car fully skeletonised
Frequency: 18’000 A/h
Jewels: 24
Number of components: 184
Case
Titanium PVD black
Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment
Dimensions: ø 43.40 mm; Height: 13.00 mm
Water-resistance: 5 ATM, 50 m
Dial Ring
Black with founded appliqués
Straps
Delivered with a genuine black alligator strap and double-fold clasp as well as an additional black rubber strap
Edition
Limited to 2 pieces

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