Monday, January 21, 2013

ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Logical One


ROMAIN GAUTHIER – Logical One

Romain Gauthier profile

Romain Gauthier was born in 1975 in Le Sentier, in the picturesque Vallée de Joux, at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that he developed a passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro-engineering.  After studying precision-mechanics, Romain gained a diploma as a constructor of precision machinery. In 1997, he started his first job as machine programmer/operator and over the following years, Romain managed and grew the department into one of the best - equipped and most efficient production facilities in Europe.

 ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Prestige HM
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Determined to create his own watch brand, Romain completed an MBA in 2002. His final thesis – passed with distinction – was the business plan for Montres Romain Gauthier. He then began work on the timepieces themselves. "I knew that a good movement was the basis of everything I planned to build, so I started with that."
 

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In 2005, after three years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand in Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement.
The  Prestige HMS followed in 2010 and Logical One in 2013.

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   LOGICAL ONE by ROMAIN GAUTHIER
    Constant force for the 21st century


ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Logical One Platinum

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Logical One features a triple patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, plus a 60-hour power reserve indicator.

‘Coming from an engineering background, it appeared strange to have a high precision machine forced to run at varying power levels. So I started with the premise that it would be better to have constant energy.’  Romain Gauthier

ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Logical One Gold

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Constant force
The vast majority of machines run on constant force: Cars and planes don’t start running slower as fuel runs low and machines receive how much electricity is produced.

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                                                                                       Both lines on the graph above represent a 60-hour power reserve

Yet the power that runs and regulates the vast majority of high precision mechanical timepieces varies greatly according to the state of wind of the mainspring.

Constant force is one of the holy grails of horology and with Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee − one of the oldest and most traditional methods of supplying constant force to a watch/clock movement − making it both more reliable, more effective . . . and more constant.



Traditional chain and fusee
A fusee (‘fusée’ is French for cone) is a cone-shaped pulley wound with a cord or chain that is attached to the mainspring barrel.

Fusees have been used since 15th century to improve timekeeping by compensating for the diminishing torque/power of the mainspring as it ran down.

                                                                                             Fusee (the cone-shaped pulley on right) with chain

The first fusees used fine cord; however, as technology enabled the manufacture of ever-smaller chains, these replaced cords because chains transmit power more efficiently. But the traditional chain and fusee has two inherent problems:

     1. The multiple layers of chain (often eight turns) on the fusee mean that the individual links have to be small, which means that they are relatively weak.

     2. The chain is often transmitting force between the fusee and mainspring barrel at an angle, which is both inefficient and adds stress.

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Replacing the fusee with a snail cam
Romain Gauthier solved both problems by replacing the fusee with a slowly rotating snail cam, which is situated at 10 o’clock to the left of the hour/minutes dial.

As the snail cam and mainspring barrel are on the same level, the force is always transmitted in a straight line and, as only one short line of chain is needed, the links can be bigger and stronger.

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Ruby chain (patent pending)
To further improve efficiency, Romain Gauthier has taken full advantage of the larger chain links by making the links in low-friction hard-wearing synthetic rubies.

And there is yet another innovation in the construction of the chain itself.

Romain Gauthier has replaced the traditional method of joining chain links, by placing a fine sheet of paper between the links and connecting plates, riveting them together and burning the paper away to create a fine (though imprecise) tolerance, with a snap clip system that offers high-precision, simplicity, reliability and consistency.

ROMAIN GAUTHIER - Logical One Gold 

 
Winding with ergonomic pusher
Winding Logical One is a pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set neatly into the left caseband.

While the push-to-wind system is a pleasure to use, its advantages are not only ergonomic and aesthetic, but based on sound engineering principles.

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A traditional crown is relative small with a fine (relatively fragile) stem that has to transmit the force 90° between the crown to the mainspring barrel. The pusher to wind Logical One transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.

Mainspring barrel with sapphire lining



As the mainspring unwinds in a traditional brass barrel, the metal of the spring scratches the metal, even when freshly greased. Over time, grease clots, scratches get rougher, the barrel sticks to the spring and does not rotate smoothly.

Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates.  Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.


A world of details
   - Bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms for maximum rigidity
   - Special power-process hand frosted bridges
   - High efficiency gear teeth profile (patent pending)
   - Polished screw heads with distinctive S-slot for more length/less slip
   - Balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights
   - Triangular pallet lever (Romain Gauthier invention) for improved rigidity.

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Movement & finishing
The movement for Logical One was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

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Highly polished sharp internal bevelled angles in the movement plates and bridges are the hallmark of superlative hand finishing because, to date, machines are not capable of milling and polishing sharp internal bevels.  With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has gone a step further still in creating double-angle bevels with sharp internal angles, which give the effect of border. 

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This distinctive eye-catching hand finish, created by using a two parallel bevels, has a similar effect to that of a frame around a beautiful painting, in that the frame highlights the artwork within.

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Technical Specifications

Logical One
Features: hours, minutes, small seconds,
3-day power reserve, push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system

Case and strap
Case materials: red gold or platinum
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel, brasst
Dimensions: 43mm x 14.2mm
Water resistance: 50m /5 atm / 150’
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coat front and display back
Winding by push button at 9 o’clock
Time-setting crown with sapphire cabochon at 2 o’clock
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match the case.

Movement
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 60-hours
Number of jewels: 30 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 333
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing, including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.
Three patents pending




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Sunday, January 20, 2013

Oris - Aquis Depth Gauge

















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ORIS - Aquis Depth Gauge NEW

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Diving Reaches New Depth..... 


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The first watch launch of our 2013 collection.

Renowned for producing specialist diving watches, Oris is proud to introduce the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge - first divers watch which measures depth by allowing water to enter the timepiece.


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A non inertia, responsive, incredibly accurate and actual depth gauge indication – particularly useful in decompression in the lesser depths and be suitable for both the professional and recreation diver alike. 


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Oris' engineers have applied the Boyle Mariotte Law to the patented Oris Aquis Depth Gauge. This states that if the volume of a gas is decreased, the pressure increases proportionally. 


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On descent, the air inside the channel milled into the side of the crystal, is compressed with the increase in the atmospheric pressure. The hole in the crystal at 12 o'clock allows water into the channel, which corrseponds with a scale. 


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The edge, in light grey and dark grey, differentiate water and compressed air on the scale around the outside of the dail, indicating the depth while decending or ascending. 
 
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Specifications:
 
Ref. No. 773 7675 4154 Set, 


Movement is the Swiss automatic Oris caliber 733 (base Sellita SW200)
with 26 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 38 hours.
With date window at 6 o'clock
Case Ø 46.00mm,  
Stainless steel case, water-resistant to 50 bar/500 meters
Unidirectional revolving top ring with black ceramic inlay and minute scale
Sapphire crystal, domed and anti-reflection coated on both sides, 

features a milled channel for depth gauging and a yellow meter scale
Rubber strap and metal bracelet as alternative
Set includes waterproof case, separate metal bracelet and tools


Swiss Retail Price CHF 3,500.00/ Set


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www.facebook.com - ORIS
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www.Oris.ch

Friday, January 18, 2013

BULOVA - Precisionist Chronograph


BULOVA - Precisionist Chronograph NEW

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Bulova’s commitment to innovation,accuracy, and designfor over a century continues today witha new era in timekeeping





Men's Bulova Precisionist
Precisionist collection

Bulova Precisionist Collection is the world’s most accurate watch with a continuously sweeping second hand. Most quartz watches are accurate to 15 seconds a month – Bulova Precisionist is accurate to 10 seconds a year.



The world's most advanced chronograph with a continuously sweeping second hand

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The key is Precisionist’s unique three-prong crystal, which produces a vibration frequency of 262.144 kilohertz (kHz), eight times greater than the usual two-prong crystal and the highest of any watch available today.

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Technical Specifications

Ref. 96B175

Features
    Second Hand
    Date
    Chronograph
    Precision timing to 1/1,000th of a second
    Twelve-hour chronograph function
    Signature continuously sweeping second hand
    Water resistant to 300 meters
    Accurate to 10 seconds a year, versus traditional quartz watches which
    are accurate to 15 seconds a month
Technical data
   Face shape   Circular
   Face color    Black
   Band Type   Bracelet
   Band Material Stainless Steel
   Movement  Precisionist
   Case      Stainless Steel
   Crystal    Mineral Curved
   Construction
   Water Resistance  300m/990ft (30 ATM)

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www.Bulova.com
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Thursday, January 17, 2013

CVSTOS - Challenge SEA-LINER




















CVSTOS - Challenge SEA-LINER NEW

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In the exclusive segment of Haute Horlogerie, there are some companies that will not leave connoisseurs emotionless. Definitely, Cvstos is among those.

Ever since its launch in 2005, Cvstos, with its distinctive high-tech approach to exclusive watchmaking, has boldly risen to the challenge of creating a pioneering style and a new market demand.
































































Taken directly from the Latin for "guardian", the name Cvstos was freely inspired by the boundless creativity of an exceptional team of complementary talents, each one fired by a burning passion to produce one-of-a-kind timepieces.

Its particularly modern conception of design is expressed in the perfect balance between traditional watchmaking and technological innovation.

Brimming with personality and Identifiable at a glance, Cvstos timekeepers are current Icons of watchmaking virtuosity destined to become tomorrow's classics.


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CvstosUSA..com 
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www.Cvstos.ch

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Raymond Weil - Nabucco Cuore Caldo TWELVE


RAYMOND WEIL - Nabucco Cuore Caldo TWELVE Limited Edition NEW

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Nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve

Twelve. The turning point between yesterday and tomorrow, between the past and the future.
A magic moment that the nabucco collection is celebrating with mastery, highlighting the number 12, written this year in gold letters! The nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve stands out in this way, as if to underline that every day is precious and that change is within our reach. It is with this intention – to participate in a better future – that part of the sales revenue from this watch will be donated to the improvement of cancer treatment among children.

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The nabucco collection, known for its sleek design and its architectural proportions, has always played with the number 12, the only number which is not an index. Often “Arabic” and sometimes “Roman”, it is now written in letters for the first time, as if to emphasize its importance, as the nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve has a destiny which is just as precious as the materials from which it is made. Indeed, RAYMOND WEIL has been committed for a number of years to the fight against cancer and, through this prestige model, will renew its support for the pediatric onco-hematology unit of the University of Geneva-Switzerland Hospital.

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A refined and exclusive timepiece, the nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve exploits a division of choice, involving the subtle blend of the modernity of steel with the lightness of titanium and carbon fiber, without forgetting the warmth and richness of 18 carat rose gold. In the heart of its 46mm diameter case, there are two complications – the split-seconds hand and the 42 hours power reserve indicator – in addition to the mechanical movement with bi-compax automatic winding. Surrounded by an 18 carat rose gold tachymeter bezel, the black dial is illuminated here and there with bright gold touches, the color of the setting sun. Here, the number 12 is replaced by the word “TWELVE” also in rose gold. As for the bracelet, the choice of vulcanized rubber provides the wearer with comfort, robustness and style. Finally, the screwed down titanium case back enhanced with a sapphire crystal reveals the watch’s mechanical heart with its delicate “côtes de Genève” decorations and fine circular graining. Sold in a special case together with a range of cuff links and pens, the nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve is a limited edition of 76 units, representing the foundation year of the family brand.

nabucco Cuore Caldo Twelve … a passionate heart that beats to the sound of laughing children.

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NABUCCO CUORE CALDO TWELVE
TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION


Ref. - 7900 SR SPE12
Movement Mechanical chronograph – RW5500
Winding Automatic
Power reserve 42 hours
Jewels 31 rubies
Functions
             Watch Hours, minutes and small seconds-hand at 9 o’clock
             Power reserve indicator at 6 o’clock
             Chronographe Start, stop and restart using push-piece at 2 o’clock
             Return to zero by push-piece at 4 o’clock
             Central chronograph hand
             30 minutes counter at 3 o’clock
             Tachometer ring on the bezel
Case Round – 18ct rose gold, titanium, polished and satin finished steel and carbon-fibre
            Diameter, 46 mm
           Thickness, 16.7 mm
Bezel
            Upper : circular brushed 18ct rose gold
            with tachometer
            Exterior : polished steel with ‘godron’ pattern
            between brushed vertical bands
Crown 18ct rose gold, screwed down - fluted with RW monogram
Push-pieces 18ct rose gold, screwed down and fluted
Crystal Sapphire crystal with dual-sided antiglare treatment
Dial     Galvanic black, with a chequerboard pattern in the center, with rose gold plated applique
Indexes 11 applique indexes and word « TWELVE » in rose gold plating
Hands:
             Hours / Minutes Rose gold plated, diamond-tipped,
             enhanced with luminescent material, Boston
             Chronograph & fly-back Rose gold plated, bâton
             Counters    Rose gold plated, Boston
Case back Screwed down with sapphire glass
Strap Vulcanized rubber and/or black leather, equipped with RW folding clasp in titanium, opening with a double push-piece security
Water resistance 10 ATM
Limited edition   76 pieces

PDF

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www.Raymond Weill Lve.com
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www.Raymond-Weil.com

Saturday, January 12, 2013

Ball Watch for BMW TMT Limited Edition
















Ball Watch for BMW TMT Limited Edition NEW






















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Independent Swiss watchmaker BALL Watch Company and German automaker BMW sign an exclusive agreement.

BALL Watch Company and BMW share the same values, especially a passion for precision mechanical engineering, an undeniable spirit of innovation and constant attention to technical and aesthetic excellence.


























Through their quest for perfection, precision and expertise, the watchmaking and automobile worlds are an ideal match.
As pioneer of chronometry standards, BALL Watch Company is worldwide known for having set the official standard watch of the American railroads. It was therefore an obvious step for BALL Watch Company and the legendary German automaker BMW to sign an exclusive cooperation agreement.

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This natural union, based on the exchange of expertise and resources between the two brands to drive per-formance, aesthetics and precision, will in particular lead to the design of a BALL & BMW collection reflect-ing an assertive and decidedly contemporary spirit.

A new generation of timekeeping instruments with a strong personality, created to pass the test of time while ensuring the pleasure of unsurpassable comfort: that very same pleasure that all drivers experience behind the wheel of a BMW.

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To cement and assert the determination defining this association, the watchmaking firm will be injecting the full scope of its expertise: COSC certification for all models in the collection, technological optimization and innovations, aesthetic refinement and balanced proportions.

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Dedicated to the automotive world and aficionados of mechanical engineering excellence, the new BALL & BMW timepieces will incorporate various technical feats, especially a revolutionary anti-shock system. The BALL Watch Company’s exclusive patented Amortiser® system will protect the movement against extreme shocks. This exploit of micro-mechanical engineering, inspired by the automotive world, features a shock-absorbing protection ring – also anti-magnetic – enveloping the movement. Safety and performance combined: another two core values shared by BALL Watch Company and BMW.

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The aesthetic design of these exceptional timepieces will pay homage to various distinctive hallmarks of BMW’s vehicles. A line based on the lightness that is typical of the German automaker’s dynamism.
 
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BALL Watch Company and BMW have shared values that they will faithfully promote through this new association.
The new BALL & BMW collection will be made available this summer through a network of selective retailers.

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Press Release

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Technical Specifications

Ref. - NT3010C-P1CJ-BKC
Ref. - NT3010C-P1CJ-BKF

Movement: 
Automatic caliber BALL 9018, chronometer certified COSC
Cold temperature endurance to -40°
Functions: 
14 micro gas tubes on hour and minute hands and dial for night reading capacity
Thermometric indication (range: from – 40°C to 50°C / – 40°F to 122°F)
Patented Amortiser® anti-shock system
Anti-magnetic to 4,800A/m
Water resistant to 100m/330ft
Hours, minutes, sweep seconds and date
Case: 
Stainless steel with DLC coating
Ø 44mm, height 13,25mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal case back
Screwed-in crown
Band: 
Rubber strap with standard buckle
Dial: 
Black
Celsius or Fahrenheit scale available
Limited Edition 1,000 piece

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www.BMWblog.com

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 timezone.com - Jorge Merino
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www.BallWatch.com