Thursday, September 8, 2016

Ulysse Nardin – Executive Skeleton Tourbillon

















Ulysse NardinExecutive Skeleton Tourbillon Titanium 45 NEW

Excellence in featherweight form. Airy and barely light enough to be felt on the wrist, the new Executive Skeleton Tourbillon is nonetheless the center of all attention.

Transparent yet powerful, this sleek watch exudes modernity in no uncertain terms. Within an ultra-light titanium
and ceramic case, it showcases the aesthetic codes of the Executive collection, making way for the essential.
Distinctive and modern, the Executive collection unabashedly flaunts its generously-sized attributes. It embodies
the avant-garde spirit fueled by know-how and inventiveness that has guided Ulysse Nardin throughout its 170
years of existence. Expressing an exploratory nature steeped in watchmaking expertise, the new Executive
Skeleton Tourbillon timepiece combines lightness, purity and technical features in a creation full of strong charac-
ter.

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Featherweight

Reigning atop its category, the Executive Skeleton Tourbillon presents unparalleled lightness, despite its substan-tial size – 45 mm in diameter – and its character capable of competing with the heavyweights of watchmaking excellence. This triumph takes the form of a round titanium case, water-resistant to 30 meters, which is topped with a ceramic bezel that matches the crown in black. Dressed in a dark shade, its athletic case middle further enhances the sleek and translucent mechanics that power the watch.

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In the ring

In the middle of the ring, it is all about the essentials. The signature features of the Executive collection – oversized Roman numerals and hour-markers and imposing sword-shaped hands – seem to to be suspended in midair. With its deep black color, the raised rectangular bridge stresses the skeleton watch’s place in Ulysse Nardin’s eminently contemporary collection. The movement has been carefully hollowed out to highlight these identifying features while preserving the power of its instantly recognizable aesthetics.

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A knockout victory

The watch’s finely shaped silhouette is matched by the power and performance of its beating heart, vibrating at a
frequency of 2.5 Hz. Its complex mechanics, revealed in all their glory by the transparent sapphire crystal and
coated with PVD and ruthenium, sketch a series of lively lines. With its exceptional power reserve of 170 hours
and tourbillon made from silicium, the manually wound UN-171 Manufacture movement indicating the hours and
minutes is tuned for endurance and accuracy. Sophisticated yet technical, a variety of finishes and colors en-
hance the refined architecture of this Ulysse Nardin Manufacture caliber.

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To securely attach this distillation of avant-garde creation to the wrist, the carbon fiber-style strap is connected to the case by three distinctive claws and is fastened by a folding titanium clasp.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: Executive

Model: Executive Skeleton Tourbillon

Reference: 11713-139

Movement:
Calibe: UN-171 Manufacture Skeleton, raised rectangular bridge
Escapement wheel and balance spring in silicium
23 jewels, 18’000 V/H
Power reserve: Approximately 170 hours
Winding: Manual Winding
Functions:
Tourbillion, hours and minutes
Case:
Titanium, ceramic bezel
Dial: Skeleton
Diameter: 45 mm
Water-resistance: 30 m
Oversized Roman numerals and index
Crystal: antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Sapphire crystal 
Strap:
Exclusive leather strap with carbon structure, with black ceramic buckle
 
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Ulysse Nardin SA
Marketing Department
Rue du Jardin 3
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
T :+4132 930 74 00
F :+4132 930 74 21
 

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URWERK – EMC TimeHunter X-Ray Edition


URWERKEMC TimeHunter X-Ray Limited Edition NEW

URWERK introduces the TimeHunter X-Ray

Geneva, September 7, 2016.

The unorthodox EMC TimeHunter is a watch in the subversive URWERK tradition. This unique concept combines a precision mechanical movement with an electronic module that monitors its rate. Simply by pressing a button you discover whether your watch is running fast or slow and the amplitude of its balance. Furthermore, you can adjust it accordingly for optimum timekeeping.
The EMC concept, introduced in 2013, has won watchmaking’s most prestigious awards, but how well do you know the EMC TimeHunter? Can you describe its inner workings or the play of wheels and pinions that ensure its chronometric performance? To give you an idea, URWERK presents the TimeHunter X-Ray, a limited edition of 15 watches that delivers a conceptual and stylistic knockout.

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“We have perfected one of the most reliable way of regulating a 100% mechanical watch by making mechanics intelligent,” explains watchmaker Felix Baumgartner, co-founder of URWERK. The intelligence comes from the interactive dialogue that links the watch to its owner. “In the EMC TimeHunter we have conceived and developed a purposefully accurate movement with an unusual balance-wheel and twin mainspring barrels for a constant power output,” he adds. “We then grafted on to this mechanism an electric monitor that tells the owner how his watch is performing. With this information, he can effectively control his EMC, adjusting it to the second. Our EMC TimeHunter relies on the mechanical movement that we have designed and built in our workshops; the function of the electronic module is to challenge its performance in real time and provide the most accurate information possible.”

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The TimeHunter X-Ray comes across as a timepiece that is easy to read with a central dial for black hours and minutes hands coated with white SuperLuminova for enhanced contrast. A rotating disc showing the seconds at 1 o'clock is balanced at 7 o'clock by a power-reserve indicator.

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The EMC TimeHunter’s performance indicator showing its rate (± 15 seconds a day) and balance amplitude on demand are at 10 o'clock. On the back of the watch the movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal. Also on the back is the rate-adjustment screw, one of the nerve centres of this watch. For Martin Frei, co-founder and artistic director of URWERK “the back of the watch reveals two opposing worlds sharing the same case: electronic circuits and the finest mechanical movement. They invite you to find out more — specifically how this unusual timepiece works. The same goes for the face of the watch, for the TimeHunter X-Ray as its name says it, hides nothing. The mechanism, wheel-train, electronic circuits, indeed all the secret operations of the watch are displayed for its owner.”

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What are the EMC TimeHunter’s benefits for its owner?

“If it’s not properly adjusted, even the most expensive movement remains a useless mechanism.” This is the premise on which the URWERK team got to work on the EMC TimeHunter.

The rate of a mechanical watch depends on its position in space as well as its temperature. Before selling a precision watch, therefore, the manufacturer usually tests it by placing it on a continuously rotating arm in a room where the temperature is relatively stable. The watch thus spends the same amount of time in each position. However, in real conditions, the time spent in each position varies according to the working or leisure activities of its owner and for how long the watch is actually on the wrist. Thus two identical watches with different owners might show a different weekly gain or loss.

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Simply by pressing a button the owner of an EMC TimeHunter watch can find out the rate of his watch — how much it is gaining or losing. He can then adjust it accordingly. This interactive feature enables the owner to adapt his watch to his lifestyle and the changing environment.

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How it works

The energy for the electronic rating module is generated by turning a crank. When the button is pressed, a hand points to one of two symbols: δ (the rate is being measured) or P (insufficient energy). If the measurement is possible the hand first points to the rate — ± 15 seconds a day — and then, after a short pause, the amplitude of the balance. In addition, a light emitting diode shows green if the watch is performing correctly and red if the rate is outside acceptable tolerances.
What is amplitude and how is it measured by the EMC TimeHunter?

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While the rate of a watch — its daily gain or loss — can be easily understood, the amplitude of its balance is less obvious. This measures in degrees of arc the swing of a pendulum in a clock or of an oscillating balance wheel in a watch.

In theory, each oscillation of a pendulum or a balance must be isochronous. That is to say that it must be of exactly the same duration, irrespective of its amplitude. In most mechanical watches, an amplitude of between 240° and 310° ensures optimal performance. Since the tiny balance wheel of a watch weighs so little and swings so quickly at four oscillations a second, its amplitude can be affected by a variety of factors. For example, if the balance staff is insufficiently lubricated it will lose amplitude. The amplitude is thus a valuable indicator of whether the watch needs servicing.


The balance is the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Like a human heart, its rhythm (isochronism) and pulse (amplitude) show the state of its health.
What can be seen at the back of the watch?

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Apart from the sophisticated finish of the movement, the key features of the back of the EMC TimeHunter are the adjustment screw and the push-button at the bottom of the dial between the lugs that releases the winding crown.  Noticeable in the movement is the cover of the twin barrels that houses the optical sensors measuring the oscillations. The sensors are linked by a tiny cable to the electronic components to its right, which can be seen behind a lattice. Next to the integrated circuit board can be seen the stacked twin barrels. 

For URWERK, the crazy idea of incorporating a workbench instrument within a watch represented the ultimate challenge. “Simply by pressing a button you get accurate and reliable information on the timekeeping status of your EMC TimeHunter, hitherto only available from a professional,”Felix Baumgartner explains. “Thanks to this system, you can safely interact with one of the most exhilarating mechanisms invented by man — the mechanical watch.”

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The EMC TimeHunter concepts has three aims: to show the effect on the balance of external influences such as the temperature, pressure and the owner’s activity; to allow the owner to adjust the rate of the balance and to encourage the owner to interact with his watch. 

The EMC TimeHunter can be described as a precise mechanical watch with a proprietary movement designed, developed and manufactured in URWERK’s Zurich workshops and adjusted by URWERK in Geneva. Its movement complies with the highest quality standards. Its timekeeping functions are adjusted in five positions during a 30-day test to reach chronometer standards.

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The EMC TimeHunter movement has the following features:

  • Its balance wheel is made of ARCAP, an alloy chosen by URWERK for its non-magnetic and anti-corrosive qualities. Its unusual shape has been scientifically calculated to be aerodynamic and minimise the effects of air friction and to achieve an optimal amplitude.
  • Its twin mainsprings are housed in two superimposed barrels to ensure a constant power supply and a power reserve of 80 hours.
  • Its exterior adjustment screw, connected to the fast/slow index on the balance, enables the rate to be adjusted by changing the effective length of the balance spring.

To monitor the rate and amplitude of the balance an electronic brain had to be perfected. Olivier Evalet, software developer and electronic engineer was heavily involved in the project. “Our idea was to use optics or the properties of light to measure the rate of a mechanical movement to within less than a microsecond. The system we came up with was designed to be long lasting. The energy to power the brain of the EMC TimeHunter doesn’t come from an ordinary battery but from a capacitor that can be recharged between 100,000 and 200,000 times with very little loss of its efficiency. We have also selected an resonator with an extremely long life that varies by just three parts in a million over a year.”

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The EMC TimeHunter’s monitoring device has the following characteristics:

  • An optical sensor of the balance wheel, which times each vibration (semi-oscillation) of the 28,800 v/h (4Hz) balance for three seconds. The sensor consists of a light source and a receiver on either side of the balance wheel. Pressing a button on the left of the watchcase activates the measurement.

  • A 16 million Hz quartz resonator constitutes the frequency reference of the EMC TimeHunter. The 4 Hz frequency of the mechanical balance is compared to that of the resonator to obtain the most precise measurement possible.
  • A smart electronic chip calculates the difference (δ) between the rate of the balance and that of the reference resonator. Each microsecond of difference corresponds to a gain or loss of a second a day in the rate of the movement. Thus a variation of 0.0000014 seconds in each vibration translates into a gain or loss of one second a day.
  • A hand-cranked generator. The power for the optical sensor and electronic calculator of the EMC TimeHunter is derived from a generator made by the Swiss Maxon firm, which developed the motors for the Nasa Mars expedition.
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The TimeHunter X-Ray confirms the advent of the mechanical watch enhanced by electronic functions that provide a diagnosis of its timekeeping performance. Such a watch gives its owner the active role of getting the best performance from his timepiece.

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Technical Specifications

EMC TimeHunter X-Ray

Limited Editions of 15 pieces

Case
Case material: Grade 5 titanium and steel with black PVD treatmentDimensions: Width 43 mm, length 51 mm, height 15.8 mm
Glasses: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30 m/ 3 ATM
Finishing: Brushed and shot peened
Movement
Calibre: UR-EMC designed and manufactured by URWERK
Escapement: Swiss lever escapement
Balance wheel: ARCAP P40, linear balance coupled to the optical sensor
Frequency: 28,800 vph - 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power source: Stacked double mainspring barrels coupled in series
Power reserve: 80 hours
Winding: Manual winding
Surface finishes: Openworked baseplate, Geneva stripes, snailing, sand blasting,
Chamfered screw heads
Artificial intelligence Generator: Maxon® hand-cranked generator to charge a capacitor
EMC system: Optical sensor controlled by an integrated circuit board; 16'000'000hz reference oscillator
Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, rate indicator δ, amplitude, power reserve,
Index adjustment screw
Controls
Two-position crown
Winding handle to generate electricity to power the δ precision indicator
Button to activate the δ precision and amplitude indicators
On the back: Crown release button and Fine-tuning screw to adjust the rate

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Press Release - 2016
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Media contact:
Ms Yacine Sar
Telephone: +41 22 900 2027
Mobile : +41 79 834 46 65
press@urwerk.com
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Wednesday, September 7, 2016

H. MOSER & CIE. – Swiss Alp Watch S Gold





















H. MOSER & CIE.HENRY Swiss Alp Watch S White Gold NEW

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H. MOSER & CIE. PRESENTS THE SWISS ALP WATCH S:
S FOR SMART, SEXY AND SWISS MADE

Neuhausen am Rheinfall, September 6 th , 2016

In January 2016, H. Moser & Cie. joined the smartwatch debate, causing a stir with its Swiss Alp Watch, a fully mechanical Swiss Made model with a contemporary design. The message from the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture was clear: "We're not straying; we're remaining true to the tradition of mechanical watchmaking; that's what we do, and we do it well". The message was widely appreciated, and the 50 Swiss Alp Watches were immediately popular with collectors. The now iconic Swiss Alp Watch is added to the H. Moser & Cie. collection in a model with a midnight blue fumé dial: the Swiss Alp Watch S.

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H. Moser & Cie. is an advocate of traditional watchmaking values, retaining a sense of humour and a subtly provocative character that have become its signature while blending classic with sexy. The Swiss Alp Watch S fits perfectly into this collection. Its rectangular case with soft, rounded corners is topped by a crystal with curved edges, for a resolutely contemporary look.

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The classic dial reveals a deep, mysterious lustre in midnight blue fumé. This effect is further enhanced by the refined black alligator strap and by the form movement that drives it – the hand-wound HMC 324 calibre. With this combination of traditional cues and current lines, the H. Moser Swiss Alp Watch retains an allure that is both symbolic and spirited.

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To the delight of enthusiasts, the Swiss Alp Watch S is now introduced in the Manufacture's increasingly-diverse range – not just as a limited edition – to join the Endeavour, Venturer and Pioneer families. Like the Swiss Alp Watch, the S model still does not allow the wearer to make calls, hunt Pokémon, or to try out the latest Snapchat filters.

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However, it continues to claim its place as an instrument for measuring time rather than consuming it. It redistributes priorities: taking time for oneself and one's loved ones, with no filter, interface or embellishment.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

HENRY Swiss Alp Watch S

Reference: 5324-0201 White Gold model, midnight blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap

Case
Solid 18 carat white gold
Dimensions: 38.2 x 44.0 mm / height: 10.3 mm
Sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Screw-in crown adorned with an “M
Dial
Midnight blue fumé with sunburst pattern
Applique indexes
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Small second offset at 6 o'clock 
Movement
In-house hand-wound HMC 324 calibre
Dimensions: 32.0 mm x 36.0mm / height: 4.80 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
27 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 4 days
Hacking seconds
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions
Hours and minutes
Small second
Power reserve indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched black alligator leather, with a leather lining in Moser.
18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo

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Press release - 2016
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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09, press@h-moser.com

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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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Tuesday, September 6, 2016

LOUIS MOINET – MEMORIS Red Eclipse White Gold Edition


LOUIS MOINETMEMORIS Red Eclipse Chronograph White Gold 200 Aniversari Limited Edition NEW

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Louis Moinet’s “Memoris Red Eclipse”:
An exceptional timepiece – shortlisted for the GPHG
and unveiled at a unique event
IN BRIEF

“Memoris Red Eclipse” has now become Louis Moinet’s anthology timepiece, celebrating the bicentenary of the invention of the chronograph – a very limited edition of twelve fully hand-engraved watches. It will be unveiled at an exceptional astronomy event organised by Louis Moinet at the Neuchâtel Observatory on the occasion of the forthcoming eclipse of the moon, on September 16.


To crown it all, the timepiece has just been shortlisted for the prestigious Geneva Grand Prix d’Horlogerie, in the Chronograph category.

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MEMORIS RED ECLIPSE

This top prestige version features a bespoke case, fully hand-engraved and depicting the theme of the lunar eclipse. All the movement’s finishes are also hand-crafted using authentic, traditional Fine Watchmaking processes – a discipline to which Ateliers Moinet now officially belongs, as per the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie’s latest White Paper, published on June 22.

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The bevelling brings the mechanism to life, on a mysterious starry background. This is crafted using a traditional rose engine – a tool which, despite being all of two hundred years old, has just found a new application, thanks to Memoris. The unique process creates a spectacular effect that makes the stars twinkle in myriad ways, depending on the angle at which they are viewed.

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AN EXCEPTIONAL EVENT

2016 marks the bicentenary of the invention of the chronograph in 1816, by Louis Moinet himself. His Compteur de Tierces is unanimously attested as the first chronograph in history, as well as being the pioneer of high frequency, with 216,000 vibrations per hour. An event entitled “200 years in 24 hours” will be organised at Neuchâtel Observatory on September 16, 2016 to observe the eclipse of the moon – and celebrate this special anniversary at the same time.

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Neuchâtel Observatory is a major piece of cultural heritage. Originally known as the Observatoire Astronomique et Chronométrique, it was built in 1858, ten years after Louis Moinet published his now legendary Traité d’Horlogerie. This outstanding venue, closely associated with the history of Louis Moinet and chronometry, has been specially booked for 24 hours for the occasion, from midnight on Thursday September 15 until midnight on Friday September 16.

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There, Louis Moinet will be unveiling an exclusive programme retracing the origins and development of the chronograph, one of the greatest complications in Haute Horlogerie for exactly two hundred years now. And in tribute to the astronomical observations of Louis Moinet, “Red Eclipse” will be officially unveiled. The star-studded pedigree of “Red Eclipse” is denoted by a red moon in gold-leaf enamel on its oscillating weight, together with hand-crafted engravings on its bridges and bezel. 

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 AN EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECE IN THE FINALS 
OF THE WATCHMAKING GRAND PRIX

Red Eclipse expresses the very quintessence of our Memoris collection. Marking a very special event, with a limited edition of just twelve timepieces, and boasting top-level finishes, it is aimed at the most experienced collectors,”
explains Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Ateliers Louis Moinet. What is more, the exceptional timepiece has qualified for the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in the Chronograph category, and will be competing for the title to be awarded on November 10 next.

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Technical specifications:

Model: MEMORIS Red Eclipse

Collection: MEMORIS Limited Edition to 12 exemplaires 
Reference:  LM-54.71.21

Movement and finish
Automatic click movement with chronograph function on dial;
hours and minutes off-centre at 6 o’clock.
302-component LM54 caliber, designed and manufactured by Louis Moinet
Winding: Automatic, bi-directional
Oscillations: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Frequency: 4Hz
Balance wheel: Glucydur, chronometer quality
5 position settings
Lines: 13 ¼
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 34
Diameter: 30.40 mm
Height: 8.90 mm
Decoration: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished facets,
diamond-cut chamfers and circular gears with 5N colour finish and straight-line steel.
The star-studded pedigree of “Red Eclipse” is denoted by a red moon in gold-leaf enamel on its oscillating weight, with hand-crafted engravings on its bridges and bezel.
Features and functions
Monopusher chronograph with column wheel
Chronograph mechanism visible on dial
Hours and Minutes (at 6 o’clock)
Seconds (at 9 o’clock)
60-second chronograph (central hand)
30-minute chronograph counter (at 3 o’clock)
Dial and hands
Chronograph hand, “Monogram” design
Hour & Minute “Gouttes de Rosée”® dew-drop hands, blue-tinted with luminous coating
Rounded enamel dial, diamond cut bead
Hand-painted mainplate, engraved with fixed graver technique
Translucent flange and counter bridge
“Energie Plus” system
Pawl winding mechanism
Pawl winding system: comprises a baseplate and two jewelled pawls
‘Crab claw’ spring mechanism
Gearing: automatic wolf-teeth gear
Ball bearing: 7 Myrox balls (ceramic), diameter: 0.397 mm
Oscillating weight: Dual material, with concentric “Clous de Paris” and “Fleur-de-lis” pattern
Case and strap
Case: Original Louis Moinet®, composed of 52 pieces.
Version MEMORIS Red Eclipse fully hand-engraved case
Design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angle
Monopusher: “Clous de Paris” pattern
Material: 18K White Gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Thickness: 15.75 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters
Case back: Fitted with 7 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet symbols
Lugs: Screwed settings (1 black zircon jewel and 3 screws per lug)
Crystals: Two convex sapphire crystals with non-reflective coating on both faces
Crown protection: Patent pending
Distance between lugs: 24 mm
Strap: Hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather with alligator lining
Buckle: 18K gold folding clasp with “Fleur-de-lis” motif.

Presentation box
Louis Moinet book

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