Wednesday, November 5, 2014

PATEK PHILIPPE – Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175 175th Anniversary - Commemorative Edition













PATEK PHILIPPEGrandmaster Chime Ref. 5175  175th Anniversary - Commemorative Limited Edition NEW


The sound of history

To pay tribute to its 175th anniversary, Patek Philippe created a collection of limited-edition commemorative timepieces, and one of them stands out in particular. It is the so far most complicated wristwatch of the eminent family-owned watchmaking companies and decidedly one of the world's most elaborate wristwatches. 

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This is due not only to the number of complications involved but also to the horological degrees of complexity, two of which have been added to the annals of watchmaking for the first time. Moreover, the Grandmaster Chime is the first double-face wristwatch presented by Patek Philippe that can be worn with either dial facing up: the one that focuses on the time and the sonnerie, the other dedicated to the full instantaneous perpetual calendar. Changing the face is very simple thanks to the ingenious reversing mechanism in the lugs. It is amazingly easy to operate and firmly secures the case in the selected position. Incidentally, the information for which a watch is most frequently consulted – the current time and the date – is displayed on both dials. The ultimate in user-friendliness and safety is assured with intelligent mechanisms that prevent potentially damaging manipulations and thus reliably protect the highly complex movement with its intricate cosmos of tiny parts.

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Patek Philippe's Grandmaster Chime is a wrist -format timekeeping instrument of absolutely unprecedented complexity and ingenuity that establishes new benchmarks in terms of technical and aesthetic elegance. Its double-face case with a diameter of 47 mm, it accommodates four spring barrels and no fewer than 20 complications, including coveted functions such as a Grande and Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater, an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display, a second time zone, and two patented global debuts in the domain of chiming watches: an acoustic alarm that strikes the alarm time and a date repeater that sounds the date on demand. Four additional patents emphasize the innovative thrust behind this watch.

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The Grandmaster Chime is a striking example of the "intelligent watch" as envisioned by Patek Philippe's philosophy. To protect complicated timepieces against damage caused by inadvertent manipulations, the manfacture's engineers devised clever "isolators" that interrupt the flow of power between individual mechanisms or block certain functions while others are active. The engraved inscriptions and symbols on the case and the pushers are further hallmarks of convenience that make the Grandmaster Chime a self-explanatory grand complication watch.

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The effort invested by Patek Philippe in this unique anniversary timepiece is remarkable. More than 100,000 hours were logged for development, production, and assembly, of which 60,000 hours for the components of the movement. Each caliber consists of 1,366 parts and each case of 214 separate parts, bringing the total number of components for each Grandmaster Chime to 1,580.

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Thus, it took 11,060 meticulously hand-finished parts to assemble the seven limited-edition exemplars of Patek Philippe's commemorative Grandmaster Chime masterpiece. Seven watches that are making history reverberate.

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Grande and Petite Sonnerie
This complication automatically sounds the hours and quarter-hours at each quarter hour (in the Petite Sonnerie mode only the hours at the top of the hour and only the quarters at each quarter hour). It ranks among the functions that aficionados and collectors hoped to see implemented in a Patek Philippe wristwatch. But it was always clear to the manufacture that this would not happen unless a strike-work power reserve of at least one entire day could be achieved. The necessary technology was not available until just recently. But now, thanks to the double barrels reserved for the strike-work mechanism, the sonneries can be activated during a period of more than 30 hours before they need to be rewound by hand. Remarkably, this was accomplished even though the quarter-hours are sounded not on two but instead on three gongs with different tone sequences. This requires 50 percent more energy for each quarter-hour strike.

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Minute repeater and alarm
The strikework double barrels also deliver the energy for the minute repeater, which on demand strikes the hours and quarter-hours as well as the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter-hour. Connoisseurs automatically associate the clarity and volume of the sounds with Patek Philippe. After all, it was the Genevan manufacture that orchestrated the comeback of this queen of complications 25 years ago. The alarm strikes the alarm time by reproducing the complete tone sequence of the minute repeater, with exactly the same sound quality. This is a function never before integrated in a mechanical wristwatch. And this is not the only "striking" global premiere with which the Grandmaster Chime celebrates its debut.

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The date repeater
The idea behind this patented global debut was inspired by a long-standing Patek Philippe customer who in a discussion with the manufacture's president Thierry Stern mentioned the possibility of a date strike. Now, with the Grandmaster Chime, it becomes sonorous reality when the date repeater is triggered with a pusher. It sounds ten-day intervals with a double high-low strike and the remaining days with a high strike: the 23rd of a month is indicated with a ding-dong ding-dong followed by ding-ding-ding. The strikework mechanism obtains the date information from the perpetual calendar to which one side of the double-face watch is dedicated, and which controls the date displays on both sides of the timepiece.

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Instantaneous perpetual calendar
The dial of the calendar face is eminently legible. It features four subdials with analog displays grouped around the gold-framed four-digit year display in the middle. The month is indicated at 3 o'clock, the date and leap-year cycle at 6 o'clock and the day of the week at 9 o'clock.

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The time of day appears at 12 o'clock on the 24-hour and 60-minute subdial. With the exception of the four-digit year, the calendar displays advance instantaneously and at the same time. As regards the date, this is indispensable because the date repeater must obtain precise information, especially during the minutes before and after midnight.

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The perpetual instantaneous date is also displayed on the other face of the watch where it frames the moonphase display at 6 o'clock. A patent granted for the four-digit year display acknowledges the elegant mechanical solution which allows the year to be conveniently incremented forward or backward with two pushers.

Local time and second time zone
When the crown of the watch points to the right, the owner sees the dial that apart from local time also indicates the time in a second time zone together with a useful day/night indication.

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The same dial features the power-reserve indicators for the movement and strikework barrels, the position of the winding crown (winding, alarm setting, handsetting), the selection of the strikework mode (Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie, or Silence) as well as a bell-shaped aperture for the alarm ON/OFF display and a small round window for the strikework isolator (disabled/enabled) display.

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The round double-face case
The term grand complication is used for movements that feature several highly elaborate complications. In analogy, the expression grande construction is justified for watch cases that require the utmost in creativity from master artisans specialized in design, completion, and decoration. More than any other watch, this applies to the case of the Grandmaster Chime. It took four years to develop. The result: the Grandmaster Chime is a round double-face watch that can be worn either way without compromise because it has two absolutely coequal dials.

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The secret lies in the lugs and the ingenious reversing mechanism, which is not only remarkably easy to operate but also firmly and dependably secures the case in the selected orientation. In the Grandmaster Chime, the skills of the casemakers are ennobled by the hand of a master engraver who invests several hundred hours of work to decorate it.

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He adorns the rose-gold case with relief engravings of a special anniversary laurel foliage motif and with a sharp burin chisels the inscriptions and symbols that explain the functions of the operating elements into the caseband, so that the complex timepiece can easily be operated without an instruction booklet. The laurel wreath is a symbol of triumph which since time immemorial has adorned the heads of victors and regents. At Patek Philippe, it is reserved for the seven Grandmaster Chime timepieces that commemorate the manufacture's 175th anniversary.

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The Grandmaster Chime is delivered in a chest made of Makassar ebony and 17 further wood species. It is decorated with intarsia and gold inlays. Apart from the watch, it contains the accompanying documentation and a commemorative medal in gold that depicts milestones of the manufacture's history as well as portraits of the company's presidents from the Stern family since 1932.

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The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime celebrates the 175th anniversary of the manufacture in a limited edition of seven watches. Six of them will be sold to long-standing collectors of Patek Philippe timepieces. The seventh one will find a place of honour at the Patek Philippe Museum where it can be admired by the public.

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Technical Specifications

Model: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175

Movement 
Caliber GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM.
        Manually  wound  mechanical  movement,  20  complications,      
        chiming mechanism with 3 gongs and 5 different time strikes      
        (Grande and Petite Sonnerie, minute repeater, alarm with time      
        strike, date repeater); second time zone with day/night indicator;      
        instantaneous perpetual calendar (date on both sides, day of      
        week, month, leap-year cycle, four-digit year display, 24-hour      
        and minute subdial, moon phases, strikework mode display,      
        strikework  isolator  display,  alarm  ON/OFF,  crown  position      
        indicator, and power reserve indicators for the movement and      
        the strikework 
Diameter:   37 mm
Height:   10.7 mm
Number of parts:   1366
Number of jewels:   108
Number of bridges:   32
Movement power reserve:  Min. 72 hours
Strikework power reserve:  30 hours
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  25,200 semi-oscillations per hour (3.5 Hz)
Balance spring:  Spiromax®
Functions
3-position crown
   • Pushed home: To wind the movement clockwise; to wind the strikework counter clockwise
   • Pulled halfway out: To set the alarm time
   • Pulled all the way out: To set the time
   • Strikework mode selector at 9 o'clock
Time dial displays
Local time in hours and minutes, hours in a second time zone, alarm time, analog perpetual date, moon phases, strikework power-reserve indicator, movement power-reserve indicator, strikework mode display, crown position indicator, strikework isolator display (chimes enabled/disabled), alarm ON/OFF
Calendar dial displays
24-hour and minute subdial, four-digit year display, three calendar subdials with analog indications for the day, month, date, and leap-year cycle
Pushers:  Pushers for the second time zone ("+" and "-"), alarm, minute repeater
Correction push pieces:  Year display ("+" and "-"), date, month, day, moon phases
Hallmark:   Patek Philippe Seal
Case
Round, with patented reversing mechanism on the axis from 12 to 6 o'clock, 18K rose gold, 214 parts, sapphire crystals on both sides, protected against dust and moisture, not water-resistant Laurel wreath motif on bezel, caseband and lugs relief-engraved by hand, hand-engraved function inscriptions and symbols on  caseband and pushers
Case dimensions:  Diameter (10 to 4 o'clock): 47.4 mm
Thickness (crystal to crystal): 16.1 mm
Time side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with radially undulated guilloché pattern, applied 18K gold Roman numerals, Local time hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold, hour hand for second time zone in 18K rose goldHands for alarm time, movement and strikework power-reserve indicators, strikework mode and crown position in 18K rose gold
Calendar side dial
18K gold, silvery white opaline, center with polished gold frame for the four-digit year display
Subsidiary dials for the 24-hour display, day, month, date, and leap-year cycle with black printed scales and black nickel-plated steel hands
Strap
Alligator with large square scales, hand-stitched, dark brown, hand-patinated, fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold fully engraved by hand

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Patents and innovations
Patents:
 Alarm mechanism with time strike
(Mechanism that acoustically indicates a preset alarm time with hour, quarter-hour, and minute strikes using the chiming mechanism of the minute repeater) 
Isolation of the Grande Sonnerie in the Silence mode 
 (Mechanism that totally uncouples the Grande Sonnerie from the movement when the Silence mode is selected, eliminating friction and thus power consumption) 
Selection of strikework operating mode
(Mechanism that allows the automatic time strike to be selected or disabled with a single slide switch: Grande Sonnerie, Petite Sonnerie or Silence. Formerly, two separate switches were needed to make these settings)
Date repeater
(Mechanism that obtains date information from the perpetual calendar and forwards it to the repeating mechanism. Manufacture president Thierry Stern is the inventor)
Reversible wristwatch case
(Wristwatch case with rotating and latching devices in the lugs, allowing it to be turned along the axis from 12 to 6 o'clock and locked in either of 2 positions) 
Mechanism for a four-digit year display
(Mechanism that automatically synchronizes the four-digit year display with the leap-year cycle and allows convenient correction of both displays in either direction)
Innovations: The strikework differential:
An innovative masterpiece of micromechanical engineering (not patented): the differential between the strikework double barrels and the two strikework mechanisms for the Grande Sonnerie (incl. minute repeater and alarm) and the date repeater.
It has a diameter of 7.2 mm and consists of 19 separate parts, one of which is an 11-part ball bearing with 7 balls with a diameter of 0.3 mm each. Despite its small size, it is robust enough to transmit the torque of the strikework barrels which exceeds 1700 gmm.

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The 20 complications
1 Grande Sonnerie
2 Petite Sonnerie
3 Minute repeater
4 Strikework mode display (Silence/Grand Sonnerie/Petite Sonnerie)
5 Alarm with time strike
6 Date repeater
7 Movement power-reserve indicator
8 Strikework power-reserve indicator
9 Strikework isolator display
10 Second time zone
11 Second time zone day/night indicator
12 Instantaneous perpetual calendar
13 Day-of-week display
14 Month display
15 Date display (on both dials)
16 Leap year cycle
17 Four-digit year display
18 24-hour and minute subdial
19 Moon phase
20 Crown position indicator (RAH)
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www.Patek.com

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS – Historiador Flameante Blue Edition Gold


CUERVO Y SOBRINOSHistoriador Flameante Blue Limited Edition  NEW

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The Swiss brand with a Latin soul, Cuervo y Sobrinos returns to its rich past and revisits one of its extra-thin watches from the 1950s. The name of this symbol of impeccable style and elegance comes from the stunning guilloché on the dial, known as "Flameante" for its unique flame effect which brings out the beauty of the magnificent indigo blue.

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 A limited edition of 50 in pink gold, one for each of the American states, and of 132 for the steel version, a nod at the number of years since Cuervo y Sobrinos was founded.

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In an effort to protect any end-consumer interested in owning and collecting Cuervo y Sobrinos fine timepieces, we have very carefully crafted a comprehensive Cuervo y Sobrinos Fine Timepieces are warrantied for a full 2 years after date of Purchase against any production defects. This warranty does not include defects due to mis-handling or inappropriate use of the watch.

Purchasing such an item from an unauthorized party is therefore at the buyer'ssole risk, particularly in the case of counterfeit or substandard products and in case of products purchased on the Internet.

No explicit or implicit warranty is implied, or servicing of, or any other obligation shall ensue, for Cuervo y Sobrinos, or for any of its authorized representatives for products sold by unauthorized parties and not accompanied by a duly stamped and valid Warranty Certificate.

For these reasons and in your own interest, you are invited to acquire genuine Cuervo y Sobrinos fine timepieces exclusively from our fine representation legitimate Cuervo y Sobrinos Official Retailer.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Reference:  3130.9FB-US - Rose Gold 

Limited Edition "1 of 50 in Rose Gold for 50 states"


Movement   CYS 2052

ETA 7001, 10 1/2'''

Hand winding

Ø 23.30 mm

Height 2.50 mm

17 jewels

Power reserve 42 hours 

Frequency 21'600

                   Bridge on wheel mechanism decorated with "Côte de Genève" fan pattern, slate-coloured treatment

                   Engraving on movement holder reads 'Testimony of style since 1882'
Functions 
Hours, minutes, small second at 6h ,
Power reserve indicator at 12h
Case
18 kt. 5N Rose Gold
Ø 40.00 mm
Height 6.20 mm
Double curved sapphire crystal typical from the 50s
Water resistant to 3 ATM
Screwed see through case back with sapphire crystal
Dial
Gun color with "FLAMEANTE" finishing
Index applied gold-plated
CyS logo applied
Hands
Hours, minutes with superluminova
Small second at 6 o'clock round shape gold-plated.
Exclusive CyS design
Strap
Louisiana Alligator 
Buckle
18Kt rose gold pin buckle
Cuervo y Sobrinos logo engraved
Indicative retail price:
CHF 13,500
USD 14,000
€12,500 
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Copy n Win at: http://bit.ly/copyandwi
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Press contact: info@cuervoysobrinos.ch
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Monday, November 3, 2014

IWC – BIG PILOT's Watch Edition “Le Petit Prince”
















IWC Schaffhausen BIG PILOT's Watch Edition Le Petit PrinceNEW


Swiss luxury watch brand IWC Schaffhausen unveils Big Pilot’s Edition "Le Petit Prince" (Ref. IW500908) is the fourth watch paying homage to Antoine de Saint-Exupery and his legendary book Le Petit Prince. This edition with a midnight blue dial closely follows the classic Big Pilot's Watches from IWC Schaffhausen and is limited to 1,000 pieces.

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The Big Pilot’s Watch from 1940 has significantly influenced the appearance of the current classic pilot’s watches. Even now, over 70 years on, the latest model adds another chapter to the success story of this extraordinary watch. Its IWC manufactured 51111 calibre movement – the largest automatic movement ever made by IWC – unites some of watchmaking’s greatest achievements.

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Within no time at all, the spring-mounted rotor and Pellaton pawl-winding system build up a power reserve of over 7 days, before the movement is mechanically brought to a halt by a complex train in the power reserve after exactly 168 hours. Stopping the movement before the tension in the spring is exhausted eliminates the danger. 

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Like some of the models in the Ingenieur family, many of the Pilot’s Watches also offer optimum protection against the effects of external magnetic fields in the form of a soft-iron inner case. The inner back plate, casing ring and dial are made from pure iron and are particularly adept at conducting magnetic flux lines around the movement. This combination prevents magnetic fields from reaching the movement and guarantees maximum precision in both normal and extreme situations. Depending on the model in question, the protection provided here – of up to 80,000 amperes per metre – exceeds the Swiss norm for “antimagnetic watches” by more than sixteenfold.

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The 46 mm solid stainless steel case houses a IWC-manufactured mechanical movement calibre 51111. Equipped with Pellaton automatic winding system, this exceptional movement delivers 7-day power reserve when fully wound. The midnight blue dial boasts a power reserve display at 3’o clock and date display at 6’o clock.

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The case back of the Big Pilot's Watch Edition "Le Petit Prince" (Ref. IW500908) shows an alluring engraving of "Le Petit Prince", the famous namesake of the book that was translated in more than 270 languages.

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The timepiece is fitted with an antireflective sapphire glass which is secured against displacement by drop in air pressure. The timepiece offers a water resistance up to 60 meters.

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This edition with a midnight blue dial closely follows the classic Pilot's Watches from IWC Schaffhausen and is limited to 1,000 pieces. This timepiece is securely fastened with a brown calfskin strap featuring quilted stitching and stainless-steel pin buckle.

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Technical Specifications

 Model: BIG PILOT's Watch Edition Le Petit Prince 

Reference: IW500908  Midnight blue dial


FEATURES
IWC-manufactured Mechanical movement 
Pellaton automatic winding system
7-day power reserve when fully wound
Power reserve display
Date display
Central hacking seconds
Glucydur®* beryllium alloy balance
Breguet spring — Screw-in crown
Special engraving featuring the little prince and inscription “IWC ∙ LE PETIT PRINCE ∙ ONE OUT OF 1000” on case back
Limited Edition to 1.000 consecutively numbered watches
MOVEMENT
    Pellaton automatic winding system
    Calibre: 51111  (50000-calibre family)
    Frequency: 21,600 A/h / 3 Hz
    Jewels: 42
    Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
    Winding: automatic
    Glucydur®* beryllium alloy balance with high-precision adjustment cam on balance arms
    Breguet spring  
WATCH
Materials: Stainless-steel case, midnight blue dial
7-day power reserve when fully wound
Date display at 6’o clock
Power reserve display
Central hacking seconds
Hands and appliqués coated with Super-LumiNova®*
Rhodiumplated hands and indices
Soft-iron inner case for protection against magnetic fields
Screw-in crown
Secured against displacement by drop in air pressure
Glass: Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides, withstands drops in air pressure
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 46 mm
Case height: 16 mm
Brown calfskin strap with quilted stitching, stainless-steel pin buckle

* IWC Schaffhausen i s n ot the owner of the G lucydur® and Super-LumiNova® trademarks.
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Sunday, November 2, 2014

A. Lange & Söhne – LANGE 1 Tourbillon HANDWERKSKUNST “20th Anniversary” Limited Edition














A. Lange & SöhneLANGE 1 Tourbillon HANDWERKSKUNST “20th Anniversary” Limited Edition NEW

A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating the 20th birthday of its brand icon with a limited special edition

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One-minute tourbillon with stop seconds, black enamelled dial and artisanal finishes, enclosed by a 38.5-millimetre platinum case – these are the salient features of the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST to commemorate the anniversary of a timepiece that became the style-defining ambassador of A. Lange & Söhne, it is being presented in an edition limited to 20 watches.

On the occasion of the 20th birthday of its brand icon, the LANGE 1, A. Lange & Söhne is introducing a special 20-watch edition of the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON with the epithet “Handwerkskunst”. Its extraordinary hallmarks include exquisite manifestations of craftsmanship in probably unprecedented combinations.

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The black enamelled main dial sets the perfect stage for the mirror-polished hour markers as well as the matching hands in rhodiumed gold. The tourbillon cock, finished with the challenging specular polishing technique, is one of the key style elements of this watch. The black solid-silver subsidiary dial for the seconds is slightly recessed into the main dial. The contour of the aperture for the tourbillon has meticulously polished chamfers. The numerals of the Lange outsize date are grey on a black background.

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The lavish decorations of the calibre L961.3 manufacture movement deserve the attribute “Handwerkskunst” in every respect. The solarised three-quarter plate made of untreated German silver has generous cutouts that reveal the identically decorated twin mainspring barrel. The tourbillon bridge, crown-wheel and intermediate-wheel cocks are elaborately engraved with a technique that sculpts the motifs out of the material. Seven screwed gold chatons as well as two diamond endstone bearings for the tourbillon constitute the finishing touches. The diamonds are traditional hallmarks that Ferdinand Adolph Lange once introduced to highlight the premium quality of his pocket watches.

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In 2008, more than 200 years after the tourbillon was invented, A. Lange & Söhne’s product developers succeeded for the first time in reliably immobilising the balance wheel inside the rotating tourbillon cage. Finally, timepieces with tourbillons could be stopped and set with one-second accuracy. The patented stop-seconds mechanism is also integrated in the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON HANDWERKSKUNST.

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A stately platinum case with a diameter of 38.5 millimetres protects the artisan-crafted masterpiece. This exclusive collectors’ watch will be unveiled within the scope of an international press conference in Dresden on 24 October 2014.
The presentation of the first Lange new-era collection took place 20 years ago on the same date.


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Technical Specifications

Model: LANGE 1 Tourbillon HANDWERKSKUNST
Ref. 704.048F

Movement 
Lange manufactures calibre L961.3;
manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; threequarter plate made of untreated German silver; steel tourbillon cock specular-polished on the dial side; intermediate wheel and crown-wheel cocks as well as tourbillon bridge on the movement side in German silver, engraved by hand
Movement parts: 378
Jewels: 51, including 2 diamond end stones
Screwed gold chatons: 7
Escapement: Lever escapement
Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance;
balance spring manufactured in-house with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Power reserve: 72 hours when fully wound
Movement dimensions: 
Diameter: 30.6 millimetres;
height: 5.9 millimetres
Functions 
Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds;
power-reserve indicator;
Lange outsize date;
one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds
Operating elements 
Crown for winding the watch and setting the time;
push piece for rapid correction of the outsize date
Case , dial and strap
Platinum case
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 38.5 millimetres; height: 10.2 millimetres
Crystal and back: Sapphire crystal (Mohs hardness 9)
Dial: Black enamelled white-gold main dial; solid-silver subsidiary seconds dial
Hands: Rhodiumed gold
Strap: Hand-stitched crocodile strap, black
Clasp: Lange deployant buckle in platinum
Limitation  20 watches

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Contact information for the media
Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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