Thursday, September 18, 2014

ORIS – Air Racing Edition IV


ORISBIG Crown ProPilot Air Racing Edition IV NEW

In honour of the Oris Swiss Air Racing Team’s Gold Race win at the 2013 National Championship Air Races in Reno, Nevada, Oris is proud to present the Air Racing Edition IV, a pilot’s watch limited to 1,000 pieces.

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The race was won by Oris ambassador Don Vito Wypraechtiger in his Formula One class Scarlet Screamer. The enormously talented Swiss aerobatic pilot became the first non - American to win the Gold Race in the event’s 50-year history.

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To commemorate Don Vito’s landmark achievement, Oris has created the Air Racing Edition IV, the latest addition to the new Oris Big Crown ProPilot collection.

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The new watch has an engraved outline of the Scarlet Screamer on its case back, alongside its limited-edition number. Its grey dial has black 3Dprinted numerals, while the hands and hour markers are finished in green Super-LumiNova. The contrast between the grey and the green makes the watch highly legible in all conditions.

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The watch’s legibility is improved further by its domed sapphire crystal glass, which is treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inside to minimise glare caused by the sun and reflections from cockpit instruments.

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The timepiece has a black diamond-like carbon PVD-coated stainless steel 45mm case and comes on a grey fabric strap with an Oris - patented folding clasp, also finished in black diamondlike carbon PVD-coated stainless steel. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water-resistant to 10bar/100m.

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The Air Racing Edition IV’s pilot’s watch credentials will come in handy when Don Vito returns to Reno in September to defend his title with the watch firmly strapped to his wrist.

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Product Features

Model: Oris - Air Racing Edition IV 1,000 pieces
Reference No. 735 7698 4783 TS Ø 45.00mm


Movement
Automatic mechanical movement  
Oris Cal. 735 (based on Sellita  SW220-1)
With date and day window at 3 o’clock
Functions 
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds,
enlarged individual date and day windows,
instantaneous date and day, date and day corrector,
fine timing device and stop-second
Case
Material: Stainless steel case diamond-like carbon PVD-coating
Screwed case back with an engraving of the
Scarlet Screamer and limited edition number
Screw-in stainless steel crown with diamond-like carbon PVD-coating
Water resistance to 10 bar/100m
Crystal
Sapphire crystal domed on both sides, with anti-reflective coating inside
Dial
Dark grey dial with 3D black printed Arabic numerals,
minute indices printed with Super-LumiNova
Hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova
Strap/Bracelet 
Grey textile strap with Oris-patented stainless steel folding clasp with
diamond-like carbon PVD-coating
Extras
Special luxury wooden presentation box, certificate, limited to 1000
Edition
Limited edition 1000 pieces
Price
Swiss Retail Price: CHF 1,800.00

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Press Release
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 www.facebook.com - ORIS
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www.Oris.ch

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Urwerk – EMC Black

URWERK EMC Black NEW

URWERK’s EMC Black: A new dawn for the future of fine watchmaking
 
EMC Black features the world's first mechanical movement with electronic monitoring system

Entirely conceived, developed and created by URWERK, EMC – for Electro Mechanical Control – is the world's first 100% mechanical, high precision watch enabling its owner to monitor the movement's timing rate. And there's more: EMC also enables simple adjustment of the timing to suit the daily rhythm and lifestyle of its owner.

In addition to EMC's conventional indications – hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator – is added a completely original performance indicator display, delta/δ, which is activated on demand by a push of a button. This patented, ultra-high precision, performance indicator, is a world first. And the wearer can then easily adjust the movement's precision (rate) by simply turning a screw on the back. EMC offers the horological Holy Grail: ultimate precision for each individual owner.

EMC's gloriously deconstructed ‘instrument panel’ dial consists of discrete, circular and crescent-shaped subdials contrasting superbly against the sleek, black DLC-treated titanium and steel case.

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The indication in the top left corner is the real giveaway that EMC is unlike anything seen before in haute horlogerie: It is a patented, precision performance indicator measuring instantaneous rate (delta or δ) that displays if the movement is running fast or slow.
 
Feeding the precision indicator are highly innovative, bespoke electronics. Electronics in a mechanical watch? That’s right. After all, EMC stands for Electro Mechanical Control. While EMC’s movement is 100% mechanical – designed, developed and crafted by URWERK and rigorously tested so that it meets the highest standards for a precision watch – URWERK have integrated into the movement a timing rate monitoring unit powered by a manual winding generator and super capacitor.

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The monitoring unit comprises an optical sensor that captures the timing rate of a specially designed balance wheel; a micro-computer then compares that rate against an ultra-fast (16,000,000 Hz) reference oscillator to calculate the isochronism of the movement i.e. how regular its timing is. Each microsecond difference is expressed as a gain or loss of a second per day of the timing rate, displayed on the precision indicator by pressing a caseband button. Fine-tuning of the rate can then be made using the adjustment screw on the caseback, which changes the active length of the balance spring.

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EMC is an ode to the mechanical watch and craft of the watchmaker,” explains Felix Baumgartner, master watchmaker and co-founder of URWERK. “The mechanical watch is a sensitive organism and the timing rate of its movement can fluctuate due to several factors. These changes of pace and performance can easily be detected by a watchmaker, a professional who is armed with the equipment necessary for testing the accuracy of the movement.
“However, it is rare for an amateur to have these tools. But with the EMC, an amateur can have them and is able to dive into the heart of their watch, to see it live and evolve. And we even give the owner a chance to interact with it by allowing them to adjust its timing rate to better suit their daily rhythm and pace of life.”

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EMC in detail

At its heart, EMC offers triple functionality:
  • showing how external parameters (positional changes, temperature and pressure) influence the timing of the movement
  • enabling the wearer to correct these timing variations by adjusting the rate for the best chronometric performance possible
  • facilitating interactivity between the timepiece and its owner – the wearer of the watch also becomes its regulator
“A mechanical watch can reach stunning levels of chronometric performance in a perfect environment,” explains Martin Frei, URWERK co-founder and artistic director. “But only if it exists in its own little bubble, protected from external knocks, at a constant temperature.
“However, that is simply not practical. After all, a watch’s raison d’être is being on its owner’s wrist, about how its wearer interacts with it. So we looked at the problem counter-intuitively and gave the wearer – the very person responsible for disrupting its movement’s timing rate – the key to correcting it. It is man’s hand that perfects the mechanics and opens the doors to an infinite power of adaptation.”

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EMC features a deconstructed dial with four separate indications: A clockwise tour of the displays, from top left, presents the: on demand, precision indicator (instantaneous rate delta "δ") ranging from -20 to + 20 seconds per day; seconds dial with counter-balanced seconds hand; hours and minutes; and 80-hour power reserve indicator. Turning EMC over reveals the fully in-house movement with the integrated circuit board – the EMC 'brain' – the top of one of the two mainspring barrels near the crown and the top of the balance wheel and optical sensor on the winding handle side.

EMC is inherently a precision mechanical watch with an in-house movement conceived, developed and crafted in the URWERK ateliers in Zurich and calibrated by URWERK in Geneva. The movement meets the most stringent quality control, with its chronometric performance tested in five positions during a 30-day cycle to ensure that it meets the highest standards for a precision watch.

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EMC’s movement is equipped with the following features:

  • - A bespoke balance wheel made of ARCAP, an alloy long admired by URWERK for its non-magnetic and anti-corrosion properties. From the very first glance, the originality of this specially-developed balance is striking. Its perfectly linear morphology is the result of careful calculations to optimize data from the optical sensor, maximize aerodynamic efficiency and minimize loss of amplitude.
  • - Power is provided by two large mainspring barrels in series, mounted vertically on a single shaft. These provide a long 80-hour power reserve, which is conducive to stable linear timing performance.
  • - The timing adjustment screw is accessible on the back of the watch and allows the owner to make very fine adjustments to the balance rate regulator by changing the active length of the balance spring by turning a simple screw.
To monitor and evaluate the mechanical movement, an ‘electronic brain’ was then needed.  Olivier Evalet, a software developer who is passionate about software and computer engineering, has been instrumental in helping this bold project succeed. "The idea was to use precision optics, i.e. light, to measure the precision of a mechanical movement,” he says. “The accuracy we managed to achieve is better than 10 microseconds.”

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The innovative EMC timing rate monitoring unit has been developed to include the following:
  • - An optical sensor on the balance wheel capturing the precise rate of oscillation of the 4 hertz / 28,800 vph regulator, over a period of 3 seconds. This sensor consists of a transmitter and a receiver positioned either side of the balance, and is triggered manually by pressing a button on the left side of the case.
  • - A 16,000,000-hertz electronic oscillator. This provides EMC’s reference timing rate. The performance of the balance of EMC (4hz) is compared against this lightning-fast oscillator to obtain the most accurate measurement possible.
  • - Artificial intelligence – integrated circuit
  • This computer determines the difference between the timing rate of the movement and that of the reference oscillator. Each microsecond difference between the two values is expressed as a gain or loss of a second per day of the timing rate. A variation of just 0.0000014 of a second per half-vibration translates as a variation of a second per day.
  • - Manual-winding generator (the generator): EMC’s monitoring unit (the optical sensor and the computer) is powered by a micro-generator made by the Swiss company Maxon, which is well known for developing motors for NASA’s Mars rovers.
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"I am passionate about perfecting watchmaking mechanics. The electronics integrated into EMC allow for this perfection,” concludes Felix Baumgartner. “We have created a timepiece in which the subtleties of its mechanical precision are not just laid bare, but can be nuanced and perfected by the beholder.
“The information supplied by the electronics, coupled with ease of fine tuning, allows complete chronometric personalization of the timing. The integrated monitoring and EMC's high precision make me proud to be responsible for its development.”

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Technical Specifications

Case          
Material    Black DLC treated titanium and steel      
Dimensions    43mm width, 51mm length, 15.8mm height     
Crystal    Sapphire crystal      
Water resistance    Pressure tested to 30m / 3ATM      
Finishing    Shot-blasting    
Movement          
Calibre         UR-EMC calibre conceived, developed and manufactured by URWERK      
Escapement    Swiss lever escapement      
Balance wheel    ARCAP P40, linear balance coupled to the optical sensor      
Frequency    28,800 vph – 4Hz      
Balance spring    Flat      
Energy source         Vertically mounted double mainspring barrels, connected in series      
Power reserve         80 hours      
Winding    Manual winding      
Finishing:    Côtes de Genève, snailing, micro-bead blasting, polished bevels on screw              
Artificial intelligence          
Generator:    Maxon® generator with manual winding charging super capacitor      
EMC system:   Optical sensor controlled by an integrated circuit board;
                      16'000'000 Hz reference oscillator             
Indications/functions  
Hours, minutes, seconds; precision delta, power reserve.       
Timing adjustment screw    

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Press Release PDF
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www.facebook.com - URWERK
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www.Urwerk.com

Tuesday, September 16, 2014

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – Margot and Soprano GPHG 2014















CHRISTOPHE CLARET MARGOT & SOPRANO
GPHG 2014

Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2014


Le Locle, September 15th 2014

We are proud to announce that two Christophe Claret timepieces – Margot and Soprano – have been preselected by the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2014 jury ahead of next month’s prize-giving ceremony. 

Mr. Wolfgang Sickenberg Director of Operations
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Margot has been preselected in the top 6 watches in the “LadiesHigh-Mech” category; Soprano in the top 6 watches in the category for “Striking” timepieces. The winner of each category will be announced at the red-carpet GPHG ceremony held at Geneva’s Grand Théâtre on Friday, October 31st. Margot is Christophe Claret’s first ladies’ watch complication. Presented at Baselworld 2014, this timepiece – hailed for its consummate style and originality – gives a poetic, playful and romantic slant to high-end, precision watchmaking. 

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Margot features an ingenious mechanism that lets the wearer play “He loves me, he loves me not” by pressing a pusher at 2 o’clock, which ‘picks’ petals off a delightful dial-side depiction of a daisy.

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The elusive answer appears in a window at 4 o’clock: un peu (a little), beaucoup (a lot), passionnément (passionately), à la folie (madly), pas du tout (not at all). How does your sweetheart feel about you? Margot whispers the answer… At each press of the pusher, a distinct, crystalline chime resonates, aurally signaling the pace of the game, while on the back of the watch, there is a rollercoaster ride of emotions with a color-sentiment game played out on the automatic winding rotor.

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As for Soprano, this exceptional timepiece features two major complications: a 60-second tourbillon and 4-note minute repeater striking Westminster Quarters on patented cathedral gongs. As with all Christophe Claret timepieces, technical watchmaking excellence is married with sublime aesthetics, right down to the smallest details.

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The 60-second tourbillon carriage is on full view through the open dial at 6 o’clock and is supported by a single arm stepped bridge in the characteristic style of Charles X. Soprano’s case combines titanium with either white or red gold.

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As timepieces preselected by the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, Margot and Soprano will feature as part of GPHG 2014’s international tour.
Dates and venues are as follows:
New Delhi, India: Imperial Hotel, September 27th, 2014 / Swiss Embassy, September 26th, 2014
Beijing, China: Yishu 8 – Maison des Arts, October 10th to 13th, 2014
Geneva, Switzerland: Cité du Temps, October 22nd to November 2nd, 2014

Additionally, the winning GPHG watches will be exhibited in London as part of Salon QP, from November 6th to 8th, 2014
Christophe Claret is a haute horlogerie brand whose exclusive timepieces are available in four collections: Traditional Complications, Extreme Watches, Casino Game Watches and Ladies’ Complications. In its own special way, each timepiece is an expression of the values that define and distinguish the master watchmaker himself: innovation, perfection, passion, uniqueness and exclusivity.

Press release
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Christophe Claret SA 
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www.facebook.com - Manufacture Christophe Claret
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www.ChristopheClaret.com

Monday, September 15, 2014

H. MOSER & CIE. – Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition

















H. MOSER & CIE. Endeavour Dual Time Titanium Black Special Edition NEW

Based in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, the prestigious independent watchmaker H.Moser & Cie. has long been favoured by professionals looking for authentic watchmaking craftsmanship and understated aesthetics. H.Moser & Cie. takes pride in making exceptional timepieces that fuse modern and traditional techniques, and even more so in the fact that all movements in Moser timepieces are created in-house.

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The Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition, fitted with the in-house HMC 346 calibre, has been designed exclusively for our retail partner Elegant, in Hong Kong.
This distinct design features a case made from grade five titanium with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) treatment, as well as H.Moser’s first ever matte anthracite dial, sandblasted and plated with ruthenium entirely by hand. This limited edition design comprises just 20 timepieces, available exclusively at Elegant in Hong Kong.

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You may be wondering if this timepiece has been created to satisfy watch enthusiasts, or more as an expression of H. Moser’s pride and dedication as professional watchmakers. In fact, the idea for the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition was born during Baselworld 2014, when a representative from Elegant told H. Moser’s senior management how popular the timepieces are among Elegant clientele, with some watch owners boasting a number of H. Moser timepieces. Many of Elegant’s customers, coincidentally, mentioned a desire to own an H. Moser timepiece that combines understated aesthetics with more complex functions (such as a dual time zone display). The feedback from these customers is what drives H. Moser watchmakers to continue to innovate and, as such, H. Moser took this feedback very seriously. H. Moser immediately set about designing the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition, exclusively for Elegant in Hong Kong. Something that makes this timepiece particularly special is that it features H. Moser’s first ever matte anthracite dial, sandblasted and plated with ruthenium entirely by hand and created for this special edition. Only 20 Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition timepieces will be sold, all with Elegant in Hong Kong. This special edition timepiece shows how H. Moser responds to the wishes of watch enthusiasts, as well as being a fine example of H. Moser’s in-house product development and production capabilities.

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Unlike the precious metals used in H. Moser’s regular timepiece collection, the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition has a case of polished grade five titanium (used in very few H. Moser special editions) with a diamond-like carbon (DLC) treatment. Grade five is the highest grade of titanium used in watchmaking. It is not only very hard, easy to wear, hypoallergenic and very light, but it is also the only grade of titanium that may be polished like a precious metal or stainless steel. As such, the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition, like other H. Moser timepieces, enjoys specific finishes and decorations on its various surfaces and edges, including mirror and hairline finishes. The diamond-like carbon treatment gives the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition an understated and mysterious deep black surface, and it helps protect the case further from scratches, making for a timepiece that is suited to daily use.

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Set against a modest matte anthracite dial, the hour, minute and seconds hands appear to simply be carrying out their basic function, when in fact they are hiding exceptional H. Moser technology. The Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition, as its name conveys, has a dual time zone function, for travelling around the world and across time zones. A red second time zone hand is concealed underneath the “home time” hour hand. When overseas, you simply adjust the red second hour hand to the new local time. The hour hand for the second time zone moves with the home time hour hand. The patented H. Moser Double Pull Crown can be pulled precisely to the central position without stopping the movement, so the home time is not disturbed. This technology is a classic display of H. Moser’s unassuming master craftsmanship.

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Another key feature of the Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition is the pawl winding system within the in-house automatic calibre HMC 346. This system is the result of relentless efforts made by the H. Moser product development team during the design and testing this highly efficient automatic in-house calibre, and it reflects H. Moser’s goal of bringing together both fine craftsmanship and practicality. The timepiece also includes Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions, a patented Moser interchangeable escapement, an original Straumann hairspring® with a stabilised Breguet overcoil and a pallet fork and escapement wheel made from solid gold. An 18-carat solid red-gold oscillating weight winds the spring barrel, giving excellent performance and a minimum 3-day power reserve.

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TECHNICAL FEATURES

Reference 1345-0500 Endeavour Dual Time model, Titanium Black DLC
Limited Edition of 20 pieces
Grade five titanium model, matte anthracite dial, black carbon-coated alligator strap

Case
Solid titanium coated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC),
Three-part case
40.8 mm diameter, 11.0 mm height
Curved sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Screw-in crown decorated with the Moser M
Movement:
in-house automatic calibre HMC 346
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height: 6.5 mm
Frequency: 18,000 vib/h
29 jewels
18-carat solid red gold oscillating weightengraved with the Moser company hallmark
Double Pull Crown mechanism
Power reserve: minimum 3 days
Hacking seconds
Automatic pawl winding system
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Solid gold pallet fork and escapement wheel
Movement and components all finished and decorated by hand
Dial
Black matte anthracite dial
Functions
Second time zone display
AM-PM indicator
Hours and minutes
Off-centre seconds hand
Strap
Hand-stitched, carbon-coated black alligator strap 
Solid grade five titanium DLC-treated pin buckle with engraved Moser logo
Limited Edition of 20 pieces

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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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www.facebook.com - Moser Watches
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www.H-Moser.com

Sunday, September 14, 2014

TUDOR – Heritage Ranger



TUDOR Heritage Ranger

Inspired by a historic model, also named Ranger, which the brand produced in the late 1960s, this new model embodies the unique creative approach developed by TUDOR to showcase its heritage in 2010 with the launch of its Heritage Chrono. Far from being a mere re-edition, it is a distinct reinterpretation, a true temporal and stylistic encounter of past, present and future. The aesthetic codes that contributed to the renown of the historic models are preserved and injected with modern touches to update the iconic spirit of the models.

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As on the brand’s historic models, the lugs of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger are drilled through to accommodate the strap bars. Its matt black dial bearing the TUDOR Rose logo is domed, as is the crystal – typical features of the 1950s and 1960s TUDOR models – which give it a unique retro chic look.

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The 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock hour markers on the dial are not appliques as on the other models in the Heritage line, but painted with a coloured luminous substance for a warm and appealing antique effect. Its distinctive pear-shaped hands are directly inspired by the historic TUDOR Ranger models.

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A more contemporary size than its source of inspiration, the case of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger measures 41 mm in diameter and is entirely satin-finished. This finish was chosen to express the functionality, technical prowess and robustness of an object that could have been standard equipment in the packs of sled-dog mushers readying themselves to face the most extreme conditions in the far North.

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The large, satin-finished crown of the TUDOR Heritage Ranger, similar to that of the TUDOR Heritage Black Bay, is engraved with the historic TUDOR Rose logo. It screws onto a protruding satin-finished tube, which further accentuates the technical sophistication of the watch.

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Four superbly crafted bracelets have been designed by TUDOR’s Style Workshop for the TUDOR Heritage Ranger. Each displaying its own strong personality, they contribute to underscoring this new model’s seamless blend into its environment.

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The first is a bund strap with satin-finished rivets. Cut from light brown leather, in spirit it subtly evokes the raw leather and the equipment used by adventurers of the far North. Its steel folding clasp is also entirely satin-finished and heightens the technical aura of the strap.

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The second is an adjustable and particularly comfortable fabric strap with a camouflage motif woven in green tones, chosen as an allusion to the vast forest-covered regions travelled by sled-dog teams.

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The third is made of tobacco coloured leather reminiscent of sled harnesses. It is also equipped with the TUDOR folding clasp in its satin-finished version.

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The fourth and last version, featuring the same clasp, is a bracelet entirely made of machined satin-finished steel.

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Its distinctive shape is a nod to the bracelets with tube-type attachments used by the brand in the 1950s, a period that witnessed numerous expeditions to the world’s most remote territories.

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Like the other models in the brand’s Heritage line, each TUDOR Heritage Ranger comes with a fabric strap as well as a second bracelet that may be chosen from among the three other available options.

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Technical Specifications
Year: 2014
Collection: Heritage
 
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Reference: 79910

Mouvement
Self-winding mechanical movement TUDOR 2824 calibre, 
Total diameter 26 mm
Height 4.60 mm
Jewels 25
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve ~38 hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Case
41 mm - 12.2 mm 
Steel case with satin finish
Domed sapphire crystal
Sapphire crystal with a red seal
Water-resistant: 150 metres (15 bar )
Dial
The 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock hour markers and indexes on the dial are painted with a coloured luminous substance for a warm and appealing antique effect. 
Crown
Screw-down winding crown in steel with the TUDOR rose in relief
Bracelet/strap
Steel bracelet, leather strap or bund strap with folding clasp and safety catch entirely satin-finished
Price: 2700 CHF

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bulangandsons.com 
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www.facebook.com - Tudor
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www.Tudor-passion.com
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www.TudorWatch.com