ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR Spider Flyback Chronograph Black 45 Edition

  

ROGER DUBUIS – EXCALIBUR Spider Flyback Chronograph Black Titanium/Carbon 45 Exclusive Boutique Edition - 2024

 A Vision in Verde Mantis:
The Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph

Leading the charge in sports car-inspired watchmaking, Roger Dubuis has returned to the grid with the third dynamic edition of the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph. Very rarely will you find a Maison so closely aligned with the world of racing, in which supreme engineering, innovative materials, and iconic colours go hand in hand.

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Introducing the new Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph. Dominated by its vibrant shade of green, this Hyper Horology™ design completes another lap for the Flyback Chronograph series, which powered onto the scene in 2023.

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This time, Roger Dubuis has created a further tribute to its long-standing partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse, who are taking their sports car to the highest level by competing in the Le Mans Daytona Hybrid series. The expressive craftsmanship is injected with the signature colour known as Verde Mantis – a tone that has been at the pulsating heart of Lamborghini Squadra Corse since it began racing over a decade ago.

Commitment to the Chronograph

Last year saw the exhilarating launch of Roger Dubuis’ fifth generation in chronograph design. Not one, but two Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronographs were unleashed, signalling the Maison’s return to this renowned complication – and showcasing a high standard of savoir-faire in every component.

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This commitment to the chronograph is nothing new. Indeed, Mr. Roger Dubuis included this complication in the movement he crafted to obtain his watchmaking school diploma. Even then, it was certified by both the Poinçon de Genève and the Bureaux Suisses de Contrôle Officiel de la Marche des Chronomètres. Naturally, when he started his company in 1995, the chronograph was part of the very first watches he created. It has remained an essential and symbolic part of the Maison's journey ever since then. After almost 30 years of evolution, that journey has culminated in a fifth generation, where the know-how and expressivity has reached a brand-new peak.

The Driving Force

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The RD780 is a movement that embodies Roger Dubuis’ approach to fine watchmaking. It reinterprets tradition in a refreshing and modern way, offering many technical surprises, including two patent-pending innovations in the form of the 120° Rotating Minute Counter and Second Braking System (SBS).

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This contemporary approach to high horology starts right at the very beginning, where the watchmakers are given full creative licence, allowing them to build the calibre from scratch and integrate the chronograph complication into the movement. This is a bold move away from the rational, modular approach (which consists of adding a chronograph module to an already existing movement) and takes many more months to complete. But the extra time means that the entire calibre is designed to both tell the time and measure time, while also expressing its own aesthetic identity.

Highlights include:

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• A Flyback function that enables the instantaneous restarting of the timer function while the chronograph is running.
• The vertical clutch, which provides better accuracy and is shaped like the gear-system of a supercar. It is equipped with an innovative Second Braking System (SBS) that is a patent-pending brake and brings extra stability to the chronograph seconds hand and drastically decreases its flicker.
• A visible column wheel at 6 o’clock. A legendary component and the unmistakeable mark of technical value. Governing the start, stop and return to 0 of the chronograph, it also makes the pushers much smoother to operate.
• The 120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC) at 3 o’clock. Crafted with a radical isotoxal shape, it includes a patent-pending tripartite hand that carries the 0, 1 and 2, accurately rotating past the 0-9 digits on the right. In pure Roger Dubuis style, the counter stands out with its large red numbers. Activate the chronograph, and the RMC begins its joyful display.
• The tilted balance wheel at 9 o’clock. A signature of the Maison, it provides the same level of inertia as a tourbillon, ensures a strong resistance to everyday knocks, and allows better resistance to disturbances. Its 12° inclination brings volume to an already multi-layered design, while the diamond-coated silicon escapement wheel is paired with diamond-coated silicon pallet-stones, delivering anti-magnetic qualities.
• 72 hours of power reserve.

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Thrusting this calibre further into pole-position, the RD780 is backed by the indisputable Poinçon de Genève certification. This is undoubtedly one of the most demanding signatures of fine watchmaking. Using 16 different types of finishing overall, the Maison has decorated each of the 333 components, while all functions have to be tested both before and after casing. The ultimate level of assurance that only few can offer.

DNA of a Sports Car

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Encapsulating the beauty of a high-performance sports car is a skill that very few watchmakers possess. Roger Dubuis, however, has found its own way to capture that aerodynamic and charismatic spirit, also while incorporating signature touches and intelligent materials.

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This year, Lamborghini celebrates 10 years of racing and will compete at the most prestigious level of covered-wheel motorsport in the Le Mans Daytona Hybrid series. For the occasion, the newly-constructed SC63 has been injected with Lamborghini’siconic Verde Mantis colour. Roger Dubuis is honouring the moment by adorning the new 45mm timepiece in the same vivid shade.

In perfect balance with the Verde Mantis tones, the case is built in lightweight grey carbon, with all the sharp lines, essential notches, and precise symmetry that the Excalibur Spider collection is known for. On top, the ceramic bezel provides hyper resistance to scratches, and is a material that will not tarnish over time.

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Together, the carbon and ceramic are a direct tribute to high-tech sports car construction. Yet for this model, the inspiration goes even further. The Lamborghini SC63 is distinctive for the emblematic “Y” shape of its headlights. To mirror this shared detail, the bar on the dial of the watch has been given the same sleek “Y” shape and is filled with Super-LumiNova™*, echoing the shining headlights of the car racing at night.

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In fact, everywhere you look, there is an abundance of interesting details. Along with skeletonised pushers, the multidimensional architecture features a variety of different surface levels, all arranged with dynamic angles and heights. This includes a lower date display as well as a floating tachymeter scale with its highlighted 88 in tribute to Mr. Roger Dubuis’ lucky number 8.

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  Even from the back, the rotor has been shaped with five arms, like the rims of a sports car. Accentuated with the signature sharp lines of Roger Dubuis, it’s another injection of speed to delight the most ardent racing fans.

Finally, to add irresistible style to the wrist, this Flyback Chronograph is presented on a Verde Mantis rubber strap. Notched for extra volume, it features a Quick Release System that ensures the wearer can change the strap in seconds for more versatility.

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Limited to 88 pieces only, the Verde Mantis model now joins two other choices in the Flyback Chronograph series, including a version in red and black, and another in khaki green and orange. Together, these three spectacular pieces provide a full range of colourful options, giving sports car enthusiasts the chance to fully express themselves on race day.

*Roger Dubuis is not owner of the trademark Super-LumiNova™

#NoRulesOurGame  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: EXALIBUR 

Model:  EXALIBUR Spider Flyback Chronograph 45 mm

Edition limited to 88 pieces
Boutique exclusive
Poinçon de Genève certified

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 Ref.   RDDBEX1102

 DESCRIPTION
The adrenaline factor of Roger Dubuis is fueled by raging mechanics. The voracious hedonists, members of the Roger Dubuis tribe, are thrilled by a fast paced life breaking records and defining new rules. Excalibur Spider is the collection reflecting the most this way of life. All watches from this collection are skeletonized to the extreme. Whether that be the calibre, the case or even the hands, everything is reduced to its strict essence in order to infuse the spirit of racing and outdoor challenges into pieces of competition offering World Premiere as a common DNA.

SPECIFIC HIGHLIGHTS
C-SMC carbon case
Second Brake System (SBS)
Column wheel
Vertical coupling clutch
120° Rotating Minute Counter (RMC)

MOVEMENT
Calibr  RD780
• MOVEMENT ENERGY: Automatic, self-winding
• COMPLICATION: Chronograph, Cryptic Date
• CALIBER: The Manufacture skillfully crafts 16 distinct finishes in-house on this RD780, including
those tailored for the Poinçon de Genève certification. These finishes are meticulously applied
to every surface of every single component of every calibre, creating a captivating interplay of
matte and polished surfaces. This process enhances the play of light, that has become the hallmark of Geneva Haute Horlogerie

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• FINISHING: Circular grained and sandblasted main plate and bridges Genève hallmark - patent pending for second brake system and rotating minute counter
• FUNCTIONS: hours, minutes, date, flyback chronograph with central seconds and 120° rotating minute counter
• FREQUENCY: 4 Hz / 28'800 Vibrations per Hour
• POWER RESERVE: 72 Hours
• DIAMETER LINES:  16
• Thisckness: 10.7 Millimeters
• NUMBER OF RUBIS: 39
• NUMBER OF COMPONENTS: 310
 CASE
Size: 45mm x 16.1mm 
Carbon case with black notched ceramic bezel and green accents
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Black DLC titanium open caseback with sapphire crystal
Titanium crown with red lacquered ring
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100 m)
DIAL
Openworked 
    Black lower flange with transferred texts and minute trackstracks. Black upper flange with screw-like
    hour markers rhodium plated and filled with SLN
    Green inside Y décor with SLN in the centre
Double flange with red and green markings and Super-LumiNova hour plots, tachymeter scale - symmetrical bridges with Y-shaped green bars with SLN echoing shape of hypercar's headlights 
Tilted balance wheel visible at 9 o'clock, twin barrels at noon and rotating minutes counter at 3 o'clock with green lacquered numerals 
White gold hour and minute hands with red tips and SLN, red central seconds hand 
Date at 6 o'clock with double digits
HAND
    Three pointer rotating disc for chronograph minute counter with lacquered digits and SLN tips
    White gold 750/1000 hour and minute hands coated with black PVD.Outlined tips filled withSLN
STRAP
Black rubber strap with green rubber inlay -Interchangeable with Quick Release System (QRS)
    Type: Rubber
    Color: Black
Clasp
Black DLC titanium cover with triple-folding clasp - quick-release system
    Type: Titanium

BOX
    Lamborghini branded standard box

 🔴 Price :  $ 107,500 / CHF 104,500 / EUR 95,833 (excl VAT)   💰

🔰 limited edition of 88 pieces - ❱❱❱ Boutique Exclusive

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Press release - 2023
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For more information, please contact:
Pauline SIZORN
Press Manager
Tel: +41(0)22 783 28 44
Email: france.garlot@rogerdubuis.com
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AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Selfwinding 41mm Gold Camouflage Gemstones

 

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Selfwinding 41mm White Gold Camouflage Coloured Gemstones - 2024

 

NEW CUTTING-EDGE SETTING 
FOR THE ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING IN 41 MM

Following on the footsteps of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow Sets launched in 2022, the Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet continues to explore highly creative settings. 

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This year, the Manufacture presents two fully paved 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models with a camouflage pattern that extends from the dial to the case and bracelet. The motif is made up of 861 baguette-cut gemstones in graduated shades of blue or in green, brown and black tones – an industry first. 

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Each stone has been meticulously selected and custom cut to create a seamless harmony between the various components and result in an original mix of colours. Bringing together Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie in a creative dialogue, these timepieces open up new aesthetic possibilities for the brand.

AN UNPRECEDENTED CAMOUFLAGE DESIGN

Since its inception, the Manufacture has pushed the boundaries of the craft, pioneering avant-garde aesthetics with a variety of shapes, colours, finishing techniques and gemsetting. 

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This year, it is exploring the creative possibilities of camouflage patterns, which made their debut at Audemars Piguet in 2018 on the rubber straps of Royal Oak Offshore models. While AP’s R&D department unveiled new polychrome materials with a similar motif earlier this year, the Manufacture reinterprets this emblematic design once again, this time through gemsetting.

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The camouflage of the two new 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding models is formed by 861 baguette-cut coloured gemstones that fully cover the case, bracelet and dial. 

 

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While the first timepiece is adorned with graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz (~ 44.32 carats), the second reference combines black sapphires, intense and light tsavorites and smoky quartz (~ 39.91 carats) to create harmonious shades of green, brown and black.

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Finding the right stones, colours and contrasts, while meeting Audemars Piguet’s strict criteria for colour, clarity and quality, was a crucial step in the design of these two timepieces. Each gemstone underwent an intensive quality control process. 

 

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After a rigorous selection made by the supplier, an additional check was carried out at Audemars Piguet to ensure overall harmony. Finally, the purity and gemmological nature of the stones were verified by an external laboratory.

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 “To create a harmonious camouflage effect that could be repeated throughout the watch, we carefully selected a variety of gemstones, including some rarely used in the watchmaking industry. The use of tsavorites, smoky quartz and black sapphires for the green timepiece and Swiss blue topaz combined with blue sapphires for the blue version allowed us to enrich the colour palette and achieve more subtle gradations. Finally, the invisible setting enhances the tone of each gemstone, giving the two timepieces volume and depth.”

Samira Ribeaucourt
Gemmologist, Audemars Piguet

ART OF INVISIBLE SETTING

To match the architecture of the Royal Oak case, bracelet and dial, the coloured gemstones were individually cut into baguettes of 179 different sizes, before being hand polished to present sharp and clear angles. The quality of the cut is as important as the intrinsic quality and clarity of the stones. Not only must they be loupe clean (i.e., no inclusions visible when examining the gemstone with a x10 loupe). Their lines and stepped facets must also be perfectly symmetrical and aligned to allow light to pass through.

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The Manufacture chose the intricate technique of invisible setting for the dial, the bracelet links and some of the case elements. Tiny grooves were delicately carved into the baguettes, which were then carefully snapped one by one into a hidden rail embedded in the gold component, using as little material as possible to give the impression that the stones are holding on their own. The complexity also lies in achieving seamless alignment – a painstaking task that requires extreme precision.

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The dial alone is covered with 152 gemstones, cut in 28 different sizes – a technical feat given the thinness of the gold plate on which they are set. To give them pride of place, the hour-markers have been omitted, while the “Audemars Piguet” signature and the “Swiss Made” indication have been discreetly printed in white on the underside of the sapphire crystal.

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The invisible setting influenced the entire fabrication process of the dial and bracelet links, from their construction and precise manufacturing to their finishing. The technical and gemsetting teams worked hand in hand through all stages of production to push creativity, while retaining the collection’s aesthetic codes and ensuring water-resistance, reliability, robustness and repairability.

A LATEST-GENERATION SELFWINDING CALIBRE

The two timepieces are powered by blue, the most recent selfwinding hours, minutes and seconds movement in this diameter developed by the Manufacture. The date indication has been left out to give pre-eminence to the gemsetting on the dial.

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The movement is equipped with a patented mechanism that provides stability and precision when setting the watch. In addition, its generous 32 mm in diameter enables optimal timekeeping precision, while its power reserve of a least 70 hours is ideal for contemporary lifestyles.

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The movement’s rhodium-toned 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight and its emblematic Haute Horlogerie decorations, such as Côtes de Genève, satin brushing, circular graining and polished chamfers, can be admired through the timepieces’ sapphire casebacks.

A LEGACY OF HIGH-JEWELLERY TIMEPIECES

Since its inception, Audemars Piguet has collaborated with several prestigious jewellery brands, including Tiffany, Cartier, Oscar Heyman and Bvlgari to case its movements in unique Haute Joaillerie creations. From the late 19th century until the 1970s, the Manufacture often sold the movement and dial to the jeweller who took care of the external design of the watch and signed it before selling it through their network. Diamonds and coloured gemstones, such as rubies, emeralds and sapphires were frequently used to embellish women’s creations. Over time, gemstones were incorporated into a wide variety of designs.

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The 1960s and 1970s saw the development of creative watches enriched with natural stone dials, including tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, aventurine, grossular garnet, opal, onyx, ruby, amethyst and japser, to name but a few. These colourful dials were sometimes combined with other gemstones featured on the case and bracelet.

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In the 1980s, the growing trend for watches with welded bracelets led Audemars Piguet to open its own jewellery workshop, run by a handful of experts. Although the brand continued to work closely with external jewellers, more and more of its gemset timepieces were created in-house. In the decades that followed, the Manufacture created expressive, one-of-a-kind jewellery watches, often accompanied by matching jewellery sets. These unique creations led to the development of Audemars Piguet’s Haute Joaillerie collection in 2013. With distinctive pieces such as the Diamond Trilogy (2015–2017) and the Sapphire Orbe (2019), this collection broke with traditional notions of gemset watches.

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Far from being confined to these one-off Haute Joaillerie creations, gemsetting now permeates Audemars Piguet’s collections. While some timepieces feature a bezel set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, amethysts or rainbow-coloured gems, to name but a few, others are entirely paved with diamonds or coloured stones, culminating in the launch of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow Sets in 2022. 

 

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The two sets, available in 37 and 41 mm, are composed of ten white gold timepieces, each set with a different baguette-cut coloured gemstone to form a rainbow when placed side by side. Each watch contains some 800 stones of the exact same hue, all meticulously selected and custom cut to produce intense and pure colours.

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Building on the Manufacture’s long heritage of high-jewellery watches, the two new camouflage Royal Oak Selfwinding timepieces continue to combine age-old techniques with ever more contemporary design, taking the art of gemsetting and watchmaking to new heights.

“Seek Beyond.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: ROYAL OAK Self-winding / 41 mm

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Reference : 15514BC.YY.1284BC.04 - Blue   

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Reference : 15514BC.YY.1284BC.02 - Green, Brown and Black     

Movement
Self-winding Manufacture calibre 4309
Total diameter 32 mm (14 lignes
Total thickness 4.9 mm
Number of parts 225
Number of jewels 32
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 70 h
Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)

 

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Functions
Hours, minutes and centre seconds.
Case

• 18-carat white gold case and bezel set with a total of 💎132 baguette-cut gemstones (graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz) (~ 11.17 carats) 
• 18-carat white gold case and bezel set with a total of 💎132 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, intense and light tsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 10.48 carats)
  

Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback.
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 11.6 mm
Water-resistant to 20 m
Dial 

• Dial set with 💎152 baguette-cut gemstones (graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz) (~ 11.43 carats), white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material.
• Dial set with 💎152 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, light and intense tsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 9.83 carats), white gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent material.

Strap 

• 18-carat white gold bracelet set with 💎577 baguette-cut gemstones (graded blue sapphires and Swiss blue topaz) (~ 21.72 carats), AP folding clasp.

• 18-carat white gold bracelet set with 💎577 baguette-cut gemstones (black sapphires, light and intensetsavorites and smoky quartz) (~ 19.6 carats), AP folding clasp.

  🔴 Price  upon request 💰
  New Product Overview 2024

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Press Release - 2024
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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