ArtyA – PURITY ‘Stairway To Heaven’ HMS Wavy Sapphire Edition

 

ArtyA – PURITY  ‘Stairway To Heaven’ HMS Wavy Sapphire Edition - 2024

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A standout launch at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Purity Stairway to Heaven movement continues to astonish. Initially presented with two off-center hands on variously colored dials, it now features a central three-hand display. The inclusion of a prominent central second hand adds even more vibrancy to this dynamic movement.

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This HMS evolution represents a major technical breakthrough, preserving the three-dimensional architecture of the original Stairway To Heaven movement and showcasing the power of its mechanics:

• - Two barrels operate side by side, in parallel, using a longer, finer spring for stable, linear energy delivery and improved winding efficiency.
• - A ‘stellar’ escapement, placed as if on a "Stairway To Heaven" podium and suspended in mid-air at 4Hz, creates a visually stunning aerial spectacle. The balance wheel has been scaled down to boost its chronometric accuracy.
• - Arched, hand-beveled bridges with innovative shapes are directly integrated, rather than being juxtaposed or adjacent, creating the necessary space for the regulating organ.
• - Extreme skeletonization defines each component, providing visual focal points and requiring machining with uncompromising precision and perfect alignment.
• - The traditional spiral adjustment caters to clients seeking customization and distinctiveness, featuring tiny weights adjusted in reversed symmetry to optimize the spiral’s inertia.
• - Visually, the architecture masterfully manipulates material and void, creating tension among components. The entire mechanism is built around the precise positioning of the gears, designed as if suspended in mid-air.

For the debut of this revolutionary movement, a case that reflects the DNA of the Geneva-based watchmaker was essential. 

A unique chapter
RING

Again, art and functionality blend together perfectly in this latest watch creation by ArtyA. This design features a new chapter ring that further enhances the transparency of the entire piece : laser-engraved inside the upper crystal, it offers both perfect legibility and an unobstructed view of the movement.

The two sword-shaped hands, with brushed and diamond-cut finishes, hover over the architecture, while the sweeping seconds hand in the center adds a distinct dynamic to the living movement.

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Inspired by the iconic Curvy barrel-shaped case, one of ArtyA’s emblematic models, the new Wavy case is round with a 40 mm diameter. This outer design perfectly harmonizes with the curves in the movement, expressing a classic and discreet aesthetic that is seemingly simple yet surprisingly complex.

 

Designed by Jérémie Arpa, son of Yvan Arpa, the Wavy sapphire crystal case takes inspiration from the iconic Curvy model. Its barrel shape has been replaced with a round 40 mm design, yet it retains its distinctive lines and reflections.

This new sapphire crystal watch offers unique refractive angles to fully appreciate all aspects of this skeletonized movement.

  SAPPHIRE MASTERY

For the past eight years, ArtyA’s creative workshops have consistently distinguished themselves through their mastery of sapphire crystal and the precision and meticulousness of their craftsmanship, demonstrating a peerless savoir-faire—both technical and aesthetic—with this fascinating material.

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Among the very first brands to adopt sapphire crystal for watch cases in 2016, ArtyA made it an essential material choice. Offering perfect transparency, sapphire crystal allows the beauty of mechanical movements to be admired from every angle.

At the same time, its remarkable resistance to scratches and shocks ensures exceptional durability and longevity. Worth noting here is that sapphire is an extraordinarily hard crystal, the third-hardest natural material after diamond and moissanite on the Mohs scale. 

Encased in a
CRESTING WAVE

As imagined by Jérémie Arpa, the son of Yvan and Dominique Arpa, the watch’s lines evoke the elegance and majesty of a powerful ocean wave running along its flank.

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Wavy manifests this through a fluid, organic visual language that mirrors the natural grace and force of the sea. It is reflected in the contours of the case, where each arc is carefully sculpted to create an impression of perpetual flux. The design goes beyond simple curviness; it blends softly undulating lines to suggest a state of flow, evoking the mesmerizing and unpredictable nature of water.

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The case designed by the young artist captures this essence with particular elegance. The slightly domed surface and flowing transitions between the different parts of the watch recall the way waves form and move across the sea. The watch’s curves reach beyond their own intrinsic aesthetics to create a unique play of light on the sapphire crystal, reflecting nuances and shadows in a way that echoes the shimmering surface of water.

The Wavy aesthetic has its own dynamic; it draws you into a visual experience where every glance reveals new perspectives and angles. The ballet of light and refraction through the sapphire crystal and across the finely polished metal parts further accentuates this impression, transforming the watch into a true work of art in motion, like a wave captured in an endless loop of grace and fluidity.

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Consistent with ArtyA’s commitment to creating exceptional timepieces, every aspect of this watch’s meticulous hand-finishing – including polishing and satin-brushed finishing – reveals an unrelenting pursuit of beauty in the invisible. The innovative techniques used to decorate the parts that are usually hidden from view illustrate ArtyA’s dedication to uncompromising quality. This attention to detail reflects the perfectionism that drives the creators of this latest piece, designed and made with the precision and passion that are ArtyA’s hallmark.

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Technical Specifications  

  Watch name Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy Edition

Movement
ArtyA Purity Stairway To Heaven HMS Manufacture Movement 
Manual-winding and skeletonised movement conceived, developed and manufactured for ArtyA in collaboration with Swiss movement manufacturer Télôs SA
Power reserve: 71 hrs.
Frequency of balance wheel 4 Hz (28,800) (higher than usual for a tourbillon, ensuring greater stability)
Functions:
Hours and minutes, seconds
Case
Pure sapphire case to match the high standards of ArtyA.
Dimensions: 40 mm
Height: 13,1mm
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 m)
Double-sided sapphire crystal
Open sapphire back
Dial
Skeleton 
Fully transparent
Skeletonised bridges
Hour markers: Engraved on the upper crystal
Double barrels on left side and suspended escapement on right
Hand-bevelled arced bridges
Strap
Black nubuck
Buckle:  ArtyAexclusive design, with or without black PVD treatment

🔰Limited Edition to 99 pieces

 🔴 Retail price (ex VAT)  44,900 CHF / 46,300 EUR / 49,700 USD 💰  
excluding VAT, exchange rates at time of writing


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Press release – 2024
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Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Gyrotourbillon Edition

Jaeger-LeCoultre – MASTER® Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Gyrotourbillon Gold 43mm Edition 2024

 

A HIGHLIGHT OF WATCHMAKING ENHANCED BY EXQUISITE DECORATIVE CRAFTS

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 Key facts:

•     An artistic reinterpretation of some of the finest watchmaking skills
•     An exceptional calibre brings together three of the greatest complications
•     Testament to the exceptional watchmaking talents and decorative crafts united within the Jaeger-LeCoultre Manufacture

In September 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a new artistic interpretation of Calibre 184. Created in 👉2019, this exceptional movement unites the smallest version of the bi-axial Gyrotourbillon with a highly intuitive perpetual calendar, a minute repeater that sounds the Westminster chime, a one-minute constant force mechanism, a dead-beat minute hand, and a leaping date display.

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 The Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 will be unveiled in 18-Karat pink gold (750/1000) during the Precision Pioneer exhibition in Beijing in September, to be followed by a variant in white gold (750/1000) (18 Karats). The timepiece will be a limited edition of five pieces of each variant.

Inspired to meet the highest challenges of horology

Jaeger-LeCoultre created its Hybris collection to bring together some of the highest watchmaking skills in a single piece. The timepieces that are designated Hybris Artistica complement the exceptional mechanics with sophisticated and complex artistic decoration.

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Calibre 184 unites three of the greatest complications in the history of watchmaking – each of which represents a pillar of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmaking mastery: sound, precision and astronomical complications. In addition, the Hybris Artistica interpretation showcases the Grand Feu enamelling skills of the Manufacture’s Métiers Rares™ atelier ­as well as the craft of lacquering.

\Underlining the extraordinary sophistication of Calibre 184, it takes approximately five months to assemble its 1052 components. Very few watchmakers have mastered such a high level of skill and a single watchmaker works on the entire process from start to finish.

An artistic reinterpretation of the finest watchmaking skills

Complex and visually intriguing, the dial of the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is an essay in harmony and contrast. Soft curves contrast with the rectilinear geometry of the decoration; textured surfaces contrast with high shine; visual complexity is anchored by a restrained bi-colour palette. The dials feature decorative plates of black Grand Feu enamel with a geometric pattern of fine lines, set on both sides of the sub-dial that displays the time and perpetual calendar. The centre of this sub-dial is a smoky black, semi-transparent sapphire that allows an intriguing glimpse of the calendar discs. The open-worked lower half of the dial is dominated by the visually mesmerising Gyrotourbillon, on each side of which the repeater hammers are set like wings. Set beneath them, the distinctively curved gongs are treated with black, to harmonise perfectly with the overall colour palette.

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In keeping with the complexity of this timepiece, the Grande Tradition case comprises more than 80 components, with polished, brushed and micro-blasted finishes highlighting its sculptural form. For the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have used the case-sides as a canvas to link to the new dial decoration, adding a plate on each side of the case featuring the same geometric pattern as the dial, executed in black lacquer.

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On the case, the attention to detail extends to the manner of operating the minute repeater. Rather than the traditional slider or a simple push-button, the designers developed a retractable pusher that is mounted flush with the case to preserve its elegant lines.

An exceptional calibre uniting three great complications

Calibre 184 features the fifth iteration of the Gyrotourbillon, which returns to the original form of the 2004 Gyrotourbillon design. However, the mechanism has been completely re-engineered and its size significantly reduced. The reduced size made it possible to incorporate a minute repeater without adding much thickness to the calibre. Remarkably, the 94 components making up the Gyrotourbillon weigh just 0.4 grams.

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 In watchmaking, precision depends on the delivery of a consistent power supply to the regulating organ and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers have incorporated a one-minute constant force mechanism to ensure a consistent flow of energy to the Gyrotourbillon. Because it causes the minute hand to beat every 60 seconds (in similar way to a dead-beat seconds hand) the constant force mechanism also has a significant benefit for the minute repeater. Normally, if the minute repeater is activated at any point between minutes, it will chime the time a minute fast or slow. Thanks to the beating minute hand, it will always chime the precise minute shown by the hand.

The minute repeater of Calibre 184 plays the Westminster carillon – the melody made famous by the clocktower housing Big Ben at London's Westminster Palace. This chime is rarely found in watchmaking due to the complexity of the mechanism needed to achieve it. Four hammers are required, rather than the usual two, and in Calibre 184, they are stacked in pairs so that they strike the gongs from the same angle.

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In mastering chiming mechanisms, Jaeger-LeCoultre has focused on ways to improve the sound, and Calibre 184 features several patented inventions: the trébuchet hammers, which strike the gong more solidly, and the crystal gongs, so named because they are connected directly to the front crystal, enabling a cleaner transfer of the sound and increased volume. The mechanism also incorporates Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature time-lapse reduction mechanism, which ensures a smooth cadence no matter what time it is chiming. Moreover, the minute repeater calibre features two distinctive characteristics: The gongs are curved outwards to meet the hammer at its natural strike point, and they have a square variable profile, providing a larger strike area that enables a cleaner strike.

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The perpetual calendar is a fine example of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery of astronomical complications, as it takes into account the differences between the cycles of the heavenly bodies and the units of standard civil timekeeping. Consequently, the calendar needs manual adjustment only in centennial years that are not also leap years. The first time that this will be required is the year 2100. The operation of the perpetual calendar of Calibre 184 is both innovative and highly intuitive, allowing the date to be re-set either backwards or forwards.

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The layout of the calendar indications is equally intuitive. Set into the hours and minutes dial, three small windows display the year, month, and day, while the date is shown on a ring surrounding the sub-dial. The spaces between dates are perfectly uniform, except for 16 and 17, which are separated by 60 degrees. Every month, the date indicator hand leaps from one to the other, ensuring that the Gyrotourbillon isn’t obscured.

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Viewed through the sapphire case-back, the reverse side of the movement is no less compelling. The plates have been open-worked to allow a view deep into the calibre, including a full view of the Gyrotourbillon, as well as the governor for the minute repeater, which uses friction and centripetal force to regulate the speed at which the time is chimed and reduces the silent intervals between chimes.

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In keeping with the elevated level of the mechanics and the exceptional artistic craftsmanship of this timepiece, the movement features superlative hand-finishing. The bridges are hand-bevelled; sunrayed Côtes de Genève radiate out from the perpetual calendar’s anchor-point; and heat-blued screws are set into hand-bevelled and polished sinks. Several bridges are micro-blasted, to create a pleasing textural contrast with the movement’s polished elements.

Uniting three great watchmaking complications with an exceptional degree of craftsmanship and artistry, the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is eloquent testimony to the 180 skills housed within the Manufacture and reconfirms the place that Jaeger-LeCoultre holds in the world of haute horlogerie as the ‘Watchmaker of Watchmakers’™.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

 MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 184

 Reference: Q5252470

Case: Pink Gold 750/1000 (18 Karats)

Dimensions: 43 mm x 14.1 mm thick

Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184

Functions: Hours and Minutes, Perpetual Calendar with Day, Month, Year and Leaping Date, Minute Repeater with Westminster Chime, Gyrotourbillon with one-minute constant force mechanism

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Dial: Black Grand Feu enamel with golden geometric decoration; black sapphire sub-dial

Water resistance: 5 bar (approximately 50 metres)

Strap: Black alligator with small scale lining

  🔰 Limited edition of 5 pieces 

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

MASTER HYBRIS ARTISTICA CALIBRE 184

Reference: Q5253470

Case: White Gold 750/1000 (18 Karats)

Dimensions: 43 mm x 14.1 mm thick

Calibre: Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 184

Functions: Hours and Minutes, Perpetual Calendar with Day, Month, Year and Leaping Date, Minute Repeater with Westminster Chime, Gyrotourbillon with one-minute constant force mechanism

Power Reserve: 50 hours

Dial: Black Grand Feu enamel with golden geometric decoration; black sapphire sub-dial

Water resistance: 5 bar (approximately 50 metres)

Strap: Black alligator with small scale lining

  🔰 Limited edition of 5 pieces

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🔴 Price on Request 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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