Thursday, July 11, 2024

MONTBLANC – 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Chronograph Edition

 

MONTBLANC1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Chronograph 42.5mm Steel / White Gold Bezel Edition 2024
 
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Montblanc’s bezel-activated Unveiled Timekeeper chronograph gets a new look

 
Following the launch of the Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper in 2023, the Maison is introducing a new limited edition in distressed steel with a grey aesthetic. 
 
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Based on a historical calibre from 1923, Montblanc’s Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva has rethought the way we record elapsed time: all the traditional Minerva design codes and watchmaking finishes are present, and yet there is no chronograph pushers to activate the chronograph.

The Montblanc Chronograph

Montblanc’s chronograph story began in 1858 when Charles-Yvan Robert founded a watch workshop in the Saint-Imier valley. As early as the 1880s, the Minerva Manufacture in Villeret had already gained international recognition for its precise timekeepers. 

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In 1909, Minerva started to develop chronographs, quickly becoming a specialist in the fabrication of professional watches and stopwatches, and in 1923, it unveiled its first manually wound monopusher chronograph dedicated to wristwatches.

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Today, Montblanc continues the Minerva chronograph legacy with the Unveiled Timekeeper, transforming this much-loved complication from the past to the present through design and technical expertise.

The Story of the White Gold Fluted Bezel

In 1927, Minerva was among the first manufactures to make a fluted bezel as well as an internal countdown rotating bezel. This was followed in 1939 by its first wristwatch chronograph with an external rotating bezel and a reset function.

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 In 2022, the Maison unveiled the 👉 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 inspired by these rare external rotating bezel models. The key elements from the past included a fluted bezel, now in white gold, and Minerva’s recognizable red arrow that allowed a quick and easy reading of elapsed time.  

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Following the two limited editions released last year – one in stainless steel and the other in Lime Gold – Montblanc unveils a new edition that is housed in a 42.5mm contemporary distressed steel case. 
 
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This special finish is achieved by treating the stainless-steel case with a black coating. It is then manually washed and brushed with quartzite from the Mont Blanc mountain and limestone from the “V”-shaped mountain opposite the Villeret manufacture, called La Combe Grède, bringing the mountain and valley together. Thanks to this special treatment, each timepiece in this 100-piece limited edition gets its very own patina and singular appearance.

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The distressed stainless steel case is dressed with an 18K white gold bezel, in keeping with current Minerva timepieces, while the grey dial takes its inspiration from Minerva chronographs from between the 1940s and 1960s
 

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Staying faithful to these historical pieces, this new edition comes with sunray finishing; luminescent hands, numerals, and indexes; elegant subdials; tachymetre scales (with a base of 1000m, 400m, and 200m); and white indications for easy reading. 
 
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The new edition also comes fitted with a grey interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print.

Calibre MB M13.21

The Calibre MB M13.21 is the latest version of the historical Calibre 13.20 that was launched over 100 years ago. The Calibre MB M13.21 is a hand-finished, manually wound movement with a 60-hour power reserve. 

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 The chronograph seconds are indicated with a contrasting blue-colored chronograph seconds hand with the Minerva arrow as the counterweight, while a 30-minute chronograph counter is positioned at three o’clock, and a small seconds’ indication balances the dial at nine o’clock. All the chronograph hands are in blue to provide an elegant visual contrast with the grey dial and create a clear distinction with the white indications of the time display.

How does the chronograph function works?

The new Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva takes the fluted bezel from the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow and turns it into a chronograph function, marking the first time in Montblanc’s watchmaking repertoire it has been possible to activate a chronograph without having to press on a pusher.

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Thanks to an innovative mechanical function, the Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva chronograph is activated via its elegant 18K gold fluted bezel, which has been refined even further in this new edition, and defines all new timepieces crafted at the Manufacture in Villeret. Just rotating the bezel clockwise with one click will start the chronograph, a second click will stop it, and a third click will reset it, transforming the way a chronograph has traditionally worked. The bezel has 30 jumps/steps per whole turn, meaning that it can time 10 separate events in one complete turn.  
 
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Montblanc is one of the few watchmaking companies to have developed such a system and has filed several patent applications for it. This hidden feature respects the beauty of the historical calibre, while incorporating modern-day know-how to create a truly contemporary timepiece.

A Caseback Paying Tribute to the Minerva Legacy

The Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva is completed with a caseback that tells the complete story of Minerva, starting with the name of the collection and the date of birth of the Minerva Manufacture at six o’clock. On an inner ring, key dates from the Minerva chronograph story are separated by little stars from the original Minerva logo, with the Minerva arrow at 12 o’clock. These key dates include:

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  • 1887 – Minerva brand and arrow symbol registered on July 30th, 1887.
  • 1908 – Development of the first Manufacture chronograph movement (19/9CH) for pocket watches.
  • 1912 – The Minerva V-shaped chronograph bridge is patented on April 10th.
  • 1920 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibre 13.20 for wristwatches.
  • 1927 – Production of Minerva’s first fluted bezel and internal countdown rotating bezel.
  • 1929 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibre 17.29 (evolution of the Calibre 19/9CH)
  • 1948 – Development of the Pythagore Manufacture Calibre 48 using the Golden Section ( =
  • 1.618…).
  • 2003 – Development of the Manufacture chronograph Calibres MB M13.21 and MB M16.29, respectively, inspired by the historical Calibres 13.20 and 17.29.
  • 2023 – Launch of the chronograph function through the bezel.

Through the caseback, more than 165 years of watchmaking novelties are documented, right up to the present day with the introduction of Montblanc Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Editions. 
 
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Their classic and elegant aesthetic holds within them fascinating chronograph novelties of watchmaking’s modern era, showing that the Montblanc chronograph story is only beginning.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:  Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Chronograph Edition

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 Ref.  Ident No. M133268

 Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M13.21
Type of movement
Manufacture hand-finished manually wound movement
Monopusher chronograph
Chronograph  Monopusher chronograph with column wheel and horizontal coupling
Dimensions
Diameter = 28.80mm ; height = 6.4mm
Number of components  239
Number of rubies 22 jewels
Power Reserve Approx. 60 hours

Balance  Balance with screws, diameter = 11.4mm
Frequency 18 000 A/h (2,5Hz)
Hairspring  With Philips curve
Bridges  Rhodium-plated German silver with “Côtes de Genève”, circular graining on both sides, hand-chamfered edges
Going-train  Gold-plated, circular grained, chamfered, diamond hubs on both sides
Displays  Hour and minute from the center, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Chronograph with central seconds hand and 30-minute counter

Habillage

Case
Distress steel with satinated and polished finishing
Bezel  18K white gold unidirectional fluted bezel, satinated and polished
Crystal  Scratch-resistant, domed shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Back  Stainless steel caseback with special engraving paying tribute to
Minerva legacy
Dimensions
Diameter = 42.5mm; height = 13.85mm
Water Resistance  Approx. 3 bar (30 m)
Crown  Fluted in stainless steel with Montblanc emblem in relief
Dial
Grey dial with white luminescent rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes,
tachymeter and telemeter scales; white luminescent rhodium-coated hour and minute hands;
rhodium-coated seconds hand; blue chronograph minute hand ; blue seconds hand
Wristband
Grey interchangeable calf leather strap with alligator print and a stainless steel triple-folding clasp

Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test

🔰 Limitation: 100 pieces

 🔴Prices  50,000£ 43,000 / $ 45,000 💰

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Press releases - 2024
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www.facebook.com - Montblanc
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www.Montblanc.com

Wednesday, July 10, 2024

Bell & Ross – BR 03 DIVER NEW Automatic Collection 2024

Bell & RossINSTRUMENTS BR03 DIVER NEW Automatic Collection - 2024

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n 2024, Bell & Ross is pushing the limits of functionality even further with its new BR 03 DIVER diving watch range. The five new models combine technical and aesthetic improvements for optimum performance. 

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Perfected components, such as a ceramic insert and an improved movement, guarantee increased durability and a power reserve extended to 54 hours. 

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Aesthetics have also been enhanced, with new typography and redesigned hands for optimal legibility, even in the most extreme conditions. With a new adaptable strap, Bell & Ross ensures a perfect fit for all wrists. 

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With its new BR 03 DIVER divers, Bell & Ross is raising the standards of performance and legibility, offering divers an unparalleled underwater experience

BELL & ROSS, CONQUERING THE ABYSS SINCE 1997

The Hydromax from Bell & Ross defined a new standard in diver's watches. Launched in 1997, it established a world record for water tightness, with perfect resistance to a depth of 11,100 meters. This feat was made possible thanks to a major technical innovation: the case was filled with a patented, transparent, fluorinated oil.

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Ten years later, in 2007, a second diver's watch appeared in the Bell & Ross collection; the BR 02 series offered an instrument watch specifically designed for the underwater world. 

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This series of watches is recognizable by its barrel-shaped case. On the technical front, they feature a helium decompression valve and an ultra-resistant curved sapphire face: essential features for saturation diving.

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With the arrival of the BR 03-92 Diver into the core of our professional instrument watch series in 2017, the company translated the features of the instrument panel in fighter aircraft into watch-making technology. Contained in a case combining "a circle within a square" Bell & Ross took a new, daring stance: diving watches do not have to be round.

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Since 2018 Bell & Ross have added a new, noteworthy feature to the model by sculpting the 42 x 42 mm square case in bronze, the iconic material of the marine world. Recognized since ancient times for its unique robustness, this alloy has enthralled watch and clock collectors and enthusiasts, captivating them with its distinctive color and its tendency for patination.

MAKING SMALL ADJUSTMENTS MAKES A GREAT DIFFERENCE

Is it not said that we reach the age of reason at the age of seven? 

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For the BR 03 Diver, which celebrates its seventh birthday in 2024, this juncture marks the maturity which comes with experience. Adopted both by professional mariners and by those who love the nautical world, the BR 03 Diver series became a stylistic milestone for diver's watches. 

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With three new features for the core model in steel, as well as a new model in matt black ceramics and a new Full Lum version, the upgrades for the BR 03 Diver range are a natural, logical development for these models. 

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Understated, but far-reaching, these technical and design developments are justified, and not merely tinkering with the aesthetics.

BR 03 DIVER: A SET OF CERTIFICATED DIVER'S WATCHES

All the instrument watches in the Bell & Ross BR 03 series are designed as quality tools for professional divers. "Providing professionals with the quality of tools needed for their tasks, and pushing boundaries to their furthest extent has always been part of our brand's DNA," affirms Carlos Rosillo,

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President and co-founder of Bell & Ross. To respond to the legitimate expectations of regulars in the aquatic environment, the new BR 03 DIVER watches comply with the international ISO 6425 standard, which states, "a watch must stand submersion in water to a depth of at least 100 meters and must have a time monitoring system." Underwater, watch markings must remain visible from 25 cm in the dark.

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Moreover, the watch must be operationally tested underwater, at a depth of 30 cm (+/- 2 cm) for 50 hours, at temperatures between 18°C and 25°C. At the end of this period, the mechanisms must still function correctly. 

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Watches are also tested to prove that they are not sensitive to thermal shock, that they resist overpressure in water, and that condensation does not form under certain conditions. The strength of the winding crown is also tested.

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Perfectly compliant with each of these demanding product specifications, fitted with BR-CAL.302-1 automatic winding, beating at a frequency of 28,800 alternations per hour (4 Hz), and a guaranteed 54-hour power reserve, all the new BR 03 DIVER watches are water-tight to 300 meters.

FROM THE HEIGHTS TO THE DEPTHS, 
INSTRUMENTS FOR PROFESSIONALS

Designing instrument watches, reinterpreting the dials, counters, and control panels of an aircraft cockpit with our operational rigor is the hallmark of Bell & Ross. The intrinsic link between the independent watch manufacturer and the world of aeronautics is well established. Effective high performance is a mainstay of the aviation industry. 

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Particularly in relation to the many technical and physical constraints connected with flying at altitude. The exploration of the ocean floor is no less challenging. In both cases, it is the aim of Bell & Ross to support professionals in their environments, to the best of their ability. "For 30 years now, our company has been equipping outstanding pilots and divers, whose tasks and lives depend on their instruments and machines. Bell & Ross is, by definition, the supplier of explorers and elite units, for whom each watch is designed to comply with precise product specifications, according to the environment in which it is intended to be used," explains Carlos Rosillo

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President and co-founder of Bell & Ross. These qualities also attract demanding city dwellers, in search of a timepiece for everyday use, with exemplary style and reliable performance

BR 03 DIVER STEEL: THE BENCHMARK

Its design and tried and tested reliability make the Bell & Ross BR 03 Diver Steel indispensable to divers. 

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Below the surface of the sea, in a world that is inhospitable to human beings, a watch is a tool for survival. Unless time control is perfect, both descending and re-ascending are particularly dangerous. The diver must have absolute confidence in his watch. 

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The BR 03 Diver Steel collection, with its 42 x 42 mm case in polished, satin-finished steel, is fully compliant. It is available in three options: black, white, and blue. 

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For each, the unidirectional swing bezel with a graduated 60-minutes scale is now enhanced by a ceramic insert in a color matching the dial. 

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In another noteworthy upgrade, the hands and the indices have been redesigned for greater readability, and the ultra-resistant rubber or synthetic canvas watch strap has been redesigned for a discreet appearance and comfort.

BR 03 DIVER BLACK MATTE: STEALTH POWER

The matt black ceramics immediately set the tone, evoking the technical features and clean lines of stealth vessels or explorers' equipment. 

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In 2019 Bell & Ross regularly offered special editions in this compelling material. This year, the BR 03 Diver Black Matte has been discreetly redesigned to provide significant improvements in readability and power.

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The two-part construction of the bezel is a distinctive feature of the BR 03 Diver Black Matte. The bezel itself and its insert are both ceramics, the insert benefits from the same improvements to resistance and readability as the models in steel. Enthusiasts will also immediately notice the enlarged type on the graduated scale. 

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Like the new BR 03 Diver in steel, the new BR 03 Diver Black Matte benefits from the improved design of the hands, the enlarged indices, and the new rubber strap.

BR 03 DIVER FULL LUM: THE ADVANTAGE OF LUMINESCENCE

Thanks to a dial covered entirely in Super-LumiNova®, the FULL LUM readability in the darkness of the deep sea has been significantly improved. This is an essential feature for a diver's watch. 

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Since its launch in 2020, the Bell & Ross BR 03 Diver Full Lum has made its mark with its powerful aesthetics and radiance. 

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Its dial is now covered with pale blue Super-LumiNova® (emitting blue light), the indices and the arrow-shaped, skeletonized hour and minute hands are coated in white Super-LumiNova® (emitting green light). 

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It is worth noting that the new BR 03 Diver Full Lum is no longer a limited edition but is now an integral member of the permanent BR 03 Diver range.

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 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: INSTRUMENTS

Model: BR 03 DIVER BLACK STEEL

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Ref.  BR03A-D-BL-ST/SRB - US $ 4,400

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement: Calibre BR-CAL.302-1
54-hour power reserve.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case
42 mm diameter
Satin-finished and polished steel.
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic.
Minute track up to 15 minutes.
Screw-down crown
Dial
Black.
Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®.
"Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. 
Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. 
Arrow-shaped hour hands.
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin.  Satin-finished and polished steel

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Model: BR 03 DIVER BLACK MATTE Ceramic

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Ref.  BR03A-D-BL-CE/SRB - US $ 4,990

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement: Calibre BR-CAL.302-1
54-hour power reserve.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case
42 mm diameter
Matt black ceramic.
Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. 
Minute track up to 15 minutes
Screw-down crown
Dial
Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled
with white Super-LumiNova®.  
"Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®.  
Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®.
Arrow-shaped hour hands
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) finish

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Model: BR 03 DIVER FULL LUM Ceramic

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Ref.  BR03A-D-LM-CE/SRB -- US $ 5,400

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement: Calibre BR-CAL.302-1
54-hour power reserve.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case
42 mm diameter
Matt black ceramic.
Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic. 
Minute track up to 15 minutes
Screw-down crown
Dial
Coated in pale blue Super-LumiNova® (blue glow).
"Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow).
Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® (green glow).
Arrow-shaped hour hands.
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Steel with black PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) finish

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Model: BR 03 DIVER BLUE STEEL Blue Dial Edition

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Ref.  BR03A-D-BLU-ST/SRB - US $ 4,400

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement:
Calibre BR-CAL.302
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case
42 mm diameter
Satin-finished and polished steel. 
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in blue ceramic. 
Minute track up to 15 minutes.
Screw-down crown
Dial
Blue sunray.
Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®. 
"Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. 
Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®. 
Arrow-shaped hour hands
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven blue rubber and ultra-resistant synthetic black fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel. 

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Model: BR 03 DIVER WHITE STEEL


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Ref.  BR03A-D-WH-ST/SRB - US $ 4,400

Movement
Bell & Ross Automatic mechanical movement: Calibre BR-CAL.302-1
54-hour power reserve.
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Case
42 mm diameter
Satin-finished and polished steel.
Unidirectional rotating steel bezel with 60-minute scale in black ceramic.
Minute track up to 15 minutes.
Screw-down crown
Dial
White.
Skeletonised metal applique hands and indices filled with white Super-LumiNova®.
"Baignoire-style" applique index filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with white Super-LumiNova®.
Arrow-shaped hour hands
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 300 m (ISO 6425 standard )
Strap
Woven black rubber and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle:
Pin. Satin-finished and polished steel.

🔴 Price: VAT for CHF 6,000 / EUR 5,700 💰

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Press Release - 2023
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www.facebook.com - Bell Ross
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www.Bell&Ross.com