Friday, June 28, 2024

BREGUET – CLASSIQUE 5345 Double Tourbillon "Quai de l'Horloge" Rose Gold

BREGUETCLASSIQUE 5345 Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge 46 Rose Gold - 2024

 Haute Horlogerie in the spotlight

In tribute to the brand founder’s invention on 26 June 1801, Breguet introduces a horological masterpiece blending expert skills with technical sophistication. This new interpretation of the Double Tourbillon is a tribute to the artistic crafts cultivated within the Manufacture.

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The sheer complexity of the 588N2 movement and its 740 components, housed in a rose gold case measuring 46 mm in diameter and 16.8 mm thick, vividly demonstrates the expertise required to create it. This masterpiece fascinates with the ingenuity of its mechanism. Viewing the watch from the dial reveals the intricate dance of two tourbillons, an integral part of the time display.

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The bar of these two tourbillons is attached to a central mainplate rotating every 12 hours thanks to a particularly complex mechanism. The designers were naturally able to attribute an additional function to this component by transforming it into an hours hand in the brand's characteristic style.

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Each equipped with its own gear train powered by its own barrel, the two tourbillons independently make one full turn per minute. The two mechanisms are connected to a central differential regulating the rate of the watch and, via a third gear train, driving the rotation of the entire mechanism.

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The sapphire dial is equally impressive, bearing Roman numerals and an engraved minutes track. A blue varnish has been applied to these interstices, creating the impression of the chapter ring being suspended above the mechanism. The vertical flank of the caseband is engraved with 12 Roman numeral hour-markers. These are then coated with black varnish, representing the shadow of the chapter ring numerals. The timepiece is paired with a Breguet-embossed midnight blue rubber strap.

Celebrating skills

This exceptional timepiece is a wrist-worn work of art, incorporating several different artistic crafts within the same watch.

Guilloché work

In its atelier dedicated to this craft, the Manufacture has created an entirely new guilloché pattern for this timepiece: radiant flinqué, a motif visually reminiscent of regular sound waves. This decoration is applied to the rose gold rotating mainplate and to the rhodium-plated gold bridge below it. A true Breguet signature, guilloché work is an art perpetuated on almost 30 guilloché lathes, making it one of the most important such workshops in the entire watch industry. 

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While the new guilloché lathes are crafted within the Manufacture, the historical ones – some dating from the 18th century – are purchased from private individuals and companies around the world who are not using them. All are restored by specialist in-house mechanics and put back into service in the workshops. 

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Each guilloché lathe has its own specific features and can produce different types of decoration, some straight and others circular. Guilloché artisans are trained and thus capable of executing a wide variety of geometric motifs. At Breguet, almost all watches are adorned with a guilloché pattern, whether on the dial, case, oscillating weight, mainplate or bridges.

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Other decorations can be admired on the dial. These include the mirror polishing on the tourbillon cages, the sunburst pattern on the minutes track, the snailing on the differential bridge, the circular satin-finish on the gears and barrels, as well as the circular graining on the underside of the rotating mainplate.

Engraving

More than a hundred hours were needed to create the engraving on the back of the movement. The intricacy of the engraved details is an invitation to focus on the place where the Breguet brand was born. Hand-engraved by the Manufacture's artisans, the depiction features an aerial view of Abraham-Louis Breguet's workshop at 39 Quai de l'Horloge. Various techniques were used to create perspective effects on a gold plate, notably including bas-relief engraving that involves hollowing out the material. The tracing tip was used to create fine lines on the asphalt, while grey contrasts were created using black and white rhodium. These colours are also found in the galvanic treatment used to coat the bridges.

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Breguet's artisan engravers have acquired an extraordinary ability to respect the brand's artistic aesthetic, while retaining their personal touch that is an essential asset in all craftsmanship. Engraving, relief engraving, and intaglio engraving are among the methods most regularly used.

Chamfering

At Breguet, every tiny part of the movement, even those that are invisible, is chamfered and polished. The new double tourbillon is no exception to the rule. A multitude of interior and exterior angles have been crafted by hand. A true token of Haute Horlogerie excellence involving over 100 hours of work on this mechanism, this method offers a pure and distinctive aesthetic finish demonstrating a precision that no machine can currently match.

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The barrel bridges recalling the BreguetB” are satin-brushed and feature a rounded-off polish known as poli-berçe. Several of the techniques used by the hand-chamfers have been applied to the various components to give them an exceptional finish. These include polished angles, satin-brushed flanks, straight graining and poli-bercé, which can be admired on almost the entire movement.

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Also known as bevelling, chamfering is a complex process that has been raised to an art form by Breguet. This technique, requiring great dexterity, consists in filing down the sharp edges of the various components, highlighting their outline while creating luminous shimmering effects.

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The polish should have a uniform sheen, with no twists or facets. Finally, the interior angles must feature a clean line, formed at the point where the two chamfers meet. Since tuition courses for this exceptional craft have all but disappeared, Breguet is committed to training future chamfering experts in-house to perpetuate this art. The artisans use various tools including files, buffs, and sticks made of various types of wood. These are all adapted by the master chamferer to the individual components.

Q&A with Lionel a Marca, CEO of Montres Breguet:

 Why is it important for Breguet to perpetuate most of the forgotten watchmaking artistic crafts?

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Lionel a Marca: If any brand should be the guardian of this realm, it’s Breguet with its 250 years of expertise... Abraham-Louis Breguet was the creator of modern watchmaking. When the brand was taken over by the Swatch Group, Nicolas G. Hayek turned the spotlight back on the guilloché technique that had fallen into oblivion. Today, the brand has one of the watch industry’s largest guilloché workshops. We also train our artisans in-house, as there are no schools for several artistic crafts. This heritage is essential if we are to perpetuate the watchmaking of tomorrow.

We are talking about artistic crafts here, yet Breguet is first and foremost a watch Manufacture that produces all its movements...

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Lionel a Marca: At Breguet, we make all our movements at our Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Our Hautes Complications workshop is staffed by experts dedicated to making calibres requiring a great deal of experience, such as Tourbillons, Equations of Time and Minute Repeaters. We also have an antique watch restoration workshop where our artisans must also master historical techniques. This need for excellence simply reflects our desire to honour both our customers and the history that Breguet represents.

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In 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet launched a pocket watch equipped with a tourbillon, which compensates for Earth's gravity and offers greater precision. Today, this mechanism is no longer useful for the accuracy of a watch. How do you explain the fact that it remains so fascinating?

Lionel a Marca:
The dominant factor lies in the art of horological beauty, the technical skill behind it, as well as the fascination. Observing a tourbillon in action is like watching a heartbeat. What's more, a timepiece is an object of desire, and our aim is to continue to intrigue people as well as make them dream – isn’t that a nice challenge?

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection  CLASSIQUE

Model:  CLASSIQUE Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge 18K Rose Gold 46mm

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 Reference 5345BR/1S/5XU

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Case
18K rose gold case
Round platinum case with finely fluted caseband
Sapphire-crystal caseback.
Diameter 46 mm. Thickness: 16.8 mm.
Rounded welded lugs with screw bars
Water-resistant to 3bar (30 meters).
Dial
Sapphire
Roman numerals and minutes track engraved and coated with blue varnish.
Hands: blued steel hours hand serving as the upper bridge of one
of the tourbillons, while its extension is used for the second tourbillon.
Open-tipped Breguet minutes hand in blued steel.
Blued-steel hours hand extending along the bar supporting the two tourbillons.
Movement
Manually wound mechanical
numbered and signed Breguet. Caliber 588N2.
Two tourbillons mounted on a revolving main plate guilloché hand-engraved on a rose engine.
The two regulating organs are coupled to a differential that determines the average rate.
Complete revolution of the main plate in 12 hours.
60-hour power reserve. 16½ lignes. 81 jewels. 738 components.
Breguet balance springs. Frequency 2.5 hertz.
Monometallic balance wheels with gold screws.
Adjusted in 6 positions.
On the reverse side of the movement, an engraving carried out by hand depicts the building on Quai de l’Horloge in Paris. 
Strap
Midnight blue strap, natural slate on rubber.
Triple folding clasp in gold.


Available  in Breguet Boutique around the world 2024

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#breguetTradition
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  🔴 Price  upon request 💰 

🔰Edition : No 

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Thursday, June 27, 2024

IWC Schaffhausen – PORTUGIESER Eternal Calendar Double Moon™ Platinum

IWC SchaffhausenPORTUGIESER Eternal Calendar Double Moon™ Platinum 44.4 mm Automatic 2024  

Schaffhausen/Geneva, 2024: IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Portugieser Eternal Calendar at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Drawing on the extensive calendar expertise it has acquired since introducing the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC now pushes the boundaries once again with its first secular perpetual calendar. 

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In addition to recognising the different lengths of the months and adding a leap day every four years, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar also takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules. A newly engineered 400-years gear ensures that the calendar automatically skips three leap years over four centuries – an event which will occur for the first time in the year 2100. Another key feature of this watch is the extremely precise moon phase display. 

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Thanks to a newly developed reduction gear, the Double Moon™ phase display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case and a black alligator leather strap from Santoni. The extensive use of glass elements such as a glass dial and double box-glass sapphire crystals showcases the ingenious mechanism inside. The increased transparency also creates a unique sense of lightness, airiness and understated elegance.

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Translating the irregular calendar into a mechanical program for a wristwatch remains one of the most challenging engineering feats in fine watchmaking. The Gregorian calendar, which is used across most continents and cultures today, divides the year into twelve months with 28, 30 or 31 days. Years that are divisible by four count as leap years, meaning that a 29th day must be added at the end of February. However, an additional correction is needed to keep the calendar in sync with the actual solar year: only those centurial years that can be divided by 400 are leap years, all others are common years. This means that 2000 and 2400 are leap years, while 2100, 2200 and 2300, for example, are common years. 

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A traditional perpetual calendar, however, is only programmed for a four-year cycle, in which three common years are always followed by a leap year. By design, it will interpret the year 2100 as a leap year and need a correction. The same will happen again in 2200 and 2300. As a result, a perpetual calendar will need three corrections over a period of 400  years. A secular perpetual calendar like the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (Ref. IW505701), on the other hand, is mechanically programmed to take these complex nuances into account. It will calculate the leap year correctly until at least the year 3999, as it has not yet been officially decided whether the year 4000 will be a leap year or not.

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    “Since Kurt Klaus developed his legendary perpetual calendar in the 1980s, IWC Schaffhausen has accumulated unique expertise in mechanical calendars that are ingeniously efficient in their design and easy to use. With the new Portugieser Eternal Calendar, we now venture further than ever before, touching the limits of eternity. Our first secular perpetual calendar automatically takes into account the Gregorian calendar’s complex leap-year exception rules by skipping the leap year three times over 400 years. True to the spirit of engineers who are always pushing the boundaries, we have also fitted this technical marvel with a moon phase display that will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years"

 Chris Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen

 THE 400-YEARS GEAR SKIPS THREE LEAP YEARS IN FOUR CENTURIES

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is based on the same modular and synchronised design as the existing perpetual calendar. All its displays can be advanced using the crown. However, while the perpetual calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an additional mechanism. Every four years at the end of February, a new module informs the calendar about whether the leap year takes place or not. 

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This so-called 400-years gear completes only one revolution every four centuries. It contains three indentations, which cause the calendar to skip three leap years over that period. This module is designed with impressive efficiency and technical elegance and consists of only eight parts, underscoring IWC Schaffhausen’s engineering approach to fine watchmaking.

MOON PHASE WITH A CALCULATED ACCURACY OF 45 MILLION YEARS

Since the introduction of the perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC has also taken great strides to continuously improve the accuracy of its moon phase displays. 

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While the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW3750) from 1985 featured a moon phase precision of 122 years, the first Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. IW5021) from 2003 impressed with a moon phase accuracy of 577.5 years. IWC’s engineers have now taken on the challenge to develop a new moon phase display with unprecedented precision.

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The difficulty in displaying the moon phase on the dial of a watch lies in the fact that the moon does not follow a daily rhythm in its orbit around the Earth. A cycle from new moon to new moon – one lunation – does not last 30 days, but rather 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. The duration of one calendar month must therefore be reduced as close as possible to one lunar cycle. This is achieved by placing a reduction gear between the base movement and the moon phase disc. 

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The key to high precision lies in the quantity of wheels used, their proportions and the number of teeth they have. IWC’s engineers have now used a special computer program to simulate more than 22 trillion different combinations.

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For the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, they came up with a new reduction gear train using three intermediate wheels. Mathematically, the display will only deviate from the moon’s orbit by one day after 45 million years. Another challenge consisted in integrating this new gear train into the confined space of the eternal calendar module.

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The moon phase is displayed on the dial using the characteristic Double Moon™ indication, which shows the moon as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The display consists of two super-imposed discs. A celestial disc with two small circular openings rotates above an immobile lower disc with two dots. 

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This negative representation gives the impression that two small moons are waxing or waning. Here, the lower disc is made of titanium and decorated with a Guilloché pattern. The upper disc is made of glass.

INTRICATELY CRAFTED GLASS DIAL AND DOUBLE BOX-GLASS

The Portugieser Eternal Calendar features an intricately finished platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces. Another highlight is the glass dial, which is manufactured in a complex process. In the first step, the underside of the dial is frosted and lacquered in white. 

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The subdials are machined and polished separately and subsequently fixed onto the dial. In the next step, the printing is applied, and the appliques are mounted by hand. The depth of the glass lends the print and appliques a floaty lightness. The numerals and the characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange sitting between the glass dial and the front glass. 

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The box-glass sapphire crystals are machined and polished in an elaborate process. 

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The Portugieser Eternal Calendar is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from the Italian leather artisan Santoni with a platinum folding clasp.

IWC-MANUFACTURED 52640 CALIBRE 
WITH SEVEN DAY POWER RESERVE

At work inside the platinum case is the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre. The high-end calibre features a highly efficient Pellaton winding system. Using movements of the rotor in both directions, it reliably builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) in the two barrels. 

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Parts of the winding system that are subject to extremely high stresses are manufactured using virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. The movement has been elaborately finished with circular graining and Geneva stripes and can be admired through the box-shaped sapphire glass case back.

THE WORLD’S MOST PRECISE LUNAR PHASE WRISTWATCH: THE IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER ETERNAL CALENDAR NOW HOLDS THE GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS™ TITLE

Schaffhausen/London, 26th June 2024: The newly introduced Portugieser Eternal Calendar has been officially recognised by Guinness World Records as the “most precise lunar phase wristwatch”. 

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With a theoretical deviation of just one day in 45,361,055 years, the Double Moon™ indication of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar beats the previous world record by more than 43 million years. This is made possible by a new reduction gear train with three intermediate wheels, which reduces the duration of one calendar month as precisely as possible to the duration of one complete lunar cycle.

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The moon phase display is arguably the most charming complication in watchmaking. It displays the current phase of the moon on the dial, ensuring that no full moon is missed – even if it is obscured by clouds. Since the introduction of its perpetual calendar almost four decades ago, IWC Schaffhausen has taken great strides to continuously improve the accuracy of its moon phase displays. 

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Developed by IWC Schaffhausen’s former head watchmaker Kurt Klaus, the first perpetual calendar debuted in 1985 with the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW3750) and offered a moon phase accuracy of 122 years. In 2003, IWC introduced the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5021), featuring a moon phase display with an enhanced precision of 577.5 years. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  The new Portugieser Eternal Calendar pushes the boundaries again: with a theoretical accuracy of more than 45 million years, it has now been officially recognised as the “world’s most precise lunar phase wristwatch” by Guinness World Records (GWR). Established in 1955, GWR has evolved to the globally most recognised authority on record-breaking achievements – verifying and documenting both human and natural records. Before being awarded its title, each record is carefully audited to comply with their strict quality standards and needs go undergo a rigorous verification process.

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    The moon phase of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar exemplifies the culture of engineering and innovation we live every day at IWC. From our apprentices and trainees to our most experienced watchmakers and engineers, we are continuously pushing the boundaries of what is possible in fine watchmaking. This record is a great recognition of their hard work and our watchmaking expertise

Stefan Ihnen, Associate Director Technics of IWC Schaffhausen

DISPLAYING THE MOON PHASE PRECISELY IS A CHALLENGE 

In the moon phase display, a reduction gear train is placed between the base calendar module and the moon phase disc. This gear train reduces the duration of one calendar month to the duration of one synodic month, which equals 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.88 seconds. 

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The accuracy of the display depends on the number of wheels used, their proportions and the number of teeth they have. For the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, IWC’s engineers devised a new reduction gear with three intermediate wheels – two more than in the previous module with an accuracy of 577.5 years.

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To develop a solution that is sufficiently robust and will function reliably for extremely long periods of time, they defined key parameters such as the minimum and maximum number of teeth per wheel. A computer simulation program created specifically for this purpose was then tasked with calculating almost 23 trillion different combinations of wheels and teeth. In an iterative process, the engineers gradually worked their way towards the perfect combination of wheels for this specific application. 

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Assuming a constant duration of the synodic month of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.88 seconds, the display would theoretically only deviate from the orbit of the moon by one day after 45,361,055 years.

LIGA PROCESS OFFERED THE REQUIRED PRECISION

Calculating the wheels was, however, not the end of the story. In order to achieve an even higher display accuracy, the backlash between the wheels was minimised by optimising the tooth geometry. To ensure that the tiny components function reliably over extremely long periods of time, alternative approaches also had to be adopted in manufacturing. 

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As traditional metal machining would not have offered the precision needed, IWC’s engineers opted for the so-called LIGA process to manufacture the wheels. LIGA involves lithography, electroplating and moulding and is often used in the semiconductor industry. 

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This process permits the production of exceptionally homogenous and smooth microstructures with a degree of precision that conventional manufacturing capabilities would not even be remotely capable of.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model:   PORTUGIESER Eternal Calendar Double Moon™  

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 Ref. IW505701 - Platinum 

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FEATURES

  • Mechanical movement
    – Pellaton automatic winding system
    – Power reserve display
    – Secular perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits
    – Perpetual moon phase with 45,000,000 years accuracy for both northern and southern hemispheres
    400-years gear for the recognition of irregular leap years
    – Small hacking seconds
    – Rotor in 18-carat gold
    – See-through sapphire glass back

MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured  calibre 52640
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
Jewels:    54
Power reserve:  7 days (168 h)
195 Components
Winding:    Automatic  

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WATCH
Materials: Platinum
Diameter:    44.40 mm
Height:    15.00 mm
Water-resistant:    5 bar 
DIAL
White dial. Glass dial with white lacquer
Rhodium-plated hands and appliques
Day & Night indication in the shape of a globe at 9 o’clock
Glass:  Sapphire, double box-glass, antireflective coating on both sides
STRAP
Black alligator leather strap by Santoni
Distance between horns: 22.0 MM
Platinum folding clasp

🔴 Public price:   CHF 150'000 / 156,500 EUR / $ 160,000 💰Guide price


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Further Information
IWC Schaffhausen Baumgartenstrasse 15 · CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 · Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 · press@iwc.com ·

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Press releases - 2024
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IWC Schaffhausen
Baumgartenstrasse 15 ·
CH-8201 Schaffhausen
Phone +41 (0)52 235 75 65 ·
Fax +41 (0)52 235 75 01 ·
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  info@iwc.com
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