Thursday, April 18, 2024

HAUTLENCE – RETROVISION ‘47 Tourbillon Edition

HAUTLENCE RETROVISION 47 Concept Tourbillon 20th Anniversary Limited Edition 2024

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As HAUTLENCE unveils its latest creations at Watches & Wonders, visitors to its booth at the world’s biggest watch show are in for a real surprise: the HAUTLENCE RETROVISION ‘47. In a major “what if?” moment for its 20th anniversary, HAUTLENCE imagines what it would have created had the brand existed in the 1940s.

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Since its foundation in 2004, HAUTLENCE has always been inspired by the world around it, no matter how far away from the confines of traditional Swiss watchmaking. From landscapes and architecture to locomotives and contemporary art, HAUTLENCE’s creativity is not bound by preconceived notions and rigid codes. One recurring theme that has become a defining feature of its creations is a rather ubiquitous object found in every household: the television.

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The distinct rectangular HAUTLENCE case with rounded edges is modeled after television sets of the past. As its content was always intended to be animated and intriguing, the television case is a perfect fit for the brand’s quirky, kinetic take on mechanical watchmaking. But what if HAUTLENCE was established in the 1940s rather than 2004

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How would it reinterpret otherwise mundane objects into singular time-telling machines? What kind of watches would it create from the inspiration surrounding it? These are the types of questions that HAUTLENCE sought to answer in a thought-provoking exercise of creativity and independence, resulting in the RETROVISION ‘47.

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The historical object that ultimately served as the source of inspiration for this exceptional piece isn’t a television set at all, but it’s close enough. Made by the General Television & Radio Corp. Chicago in the 1940s, the “Model 5A5” is a radio broadcast receiver, but its design demonstrates how it set the template for the overall form of televisions of that era, with its segmenting of the screen and speaker as well as its dials and knobs. 

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Easy enough to carry around the house but visually outstanding as a sort of sculptural piece, the General Television & Radio Corp. Chicago Model 5A5 represents the perfect harmony between form and function, with its own, distinct look.

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Handcrafted in a hand-painted case with a cuboidal form featuring soft, rounded corners, the HAUTLENCE RETROVISION ‘47 mimics the look of the marbled green and white Bakelite of the historical broadcast receiver’s case. 

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Almost a miniaturized version of the radio converted into a wristwatch, it features white attachments that serve as lugs in the form of carrying handles, with the crown at 6 o’clock to maintain the case’s symmetry. The red leather strap adds a vintage touch to this otherworldly creation that could’ve come from an alternate timeline in HAUTLENCE’s history.

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One could even say that the RETROVISION ‘47 is the most traditional HAUTLENCE ever made, as it features a proper hour and minute dial with central hands. On a small offset dial on the right side with a flat rectangular sapphire crystal, the red hands take on the three-dimensional form of the frequency selector dial, with the dial itself done in brass and 2N gold with an embossed pattern made of the HAUTLENCE Möbius emblem. On the left side of the case, is the “speaker” grill, under which the wearer can make out a 60-second flying tourbillon whirling away.

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The case back is modeled after the back of the Model 5A5 radio receiver, with a specifically shaped plate engraved with the brand name and serial number. The round sapphire display back features some general information in the same vein as the radio and offers a view of the ED20-SP00 automatic caliber, which provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

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Whimsical, evocative, and proudly unusual, the RETROVISION ‘47 marks the 20th anniversary of HAUTLENCE with a reimagining of what could have been and what could still be, with all the horological ingenuity that the brand stands for and its unique vision of kinetic, wearable art.

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The RETROVISION ‘47 has been specifically produced as part of a special installation in the HAUTLENCE booth at Watches & Wonders 2024.

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Technical Specifications

Model: RETROVISION47 Tourbillon Edition Series Concept

 Reference CA20-TI00

Concept watch, 2 pieces made for Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024

Case
Material: Marbled green and white Bakelite
Dimensions: 43.0 x 50.8
Thickness: 11.9 mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Crown at 6 o'clock
Sapphire crystal display back
Water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial and hands
Off-set dial in brass and 2N gold with an embossed pattern made of the HAUTLENCE Möbius emblem
Red hands
Movement
Automatic caliber ED20-SP00
Power reserve of 72 hours
Functions/Indications
Hours & minutes
Tourbillon
Strap and buckle
Red leather strap

🔰 Edition Limited edition✅ ❱❱❱ 2 pieces

🔴Price 60'000 CHF (incl. taxes) 💰

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Press Release - 2024
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Contact us for any further information:
Guillaume Tetu, CEO and Co-founder - g.tetu@hautlence.com
Caroline Büchler, Marketing & Communication Manager - c.buechler@hautlence.com
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Wednesday, April 17, 2024

SPEAKE-MARIN – ONE & TWO Openworked Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet Edition

SPEAKE-MARINONE & TWO Openworked Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet Titanium Edition 2024

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 THE NEW OPENWORKED TOURBILLON ULTRA-VIOLET” 
FEATURES A VIBRANT HUE INSPIRED BY THE LIGHTS OF A FUTURISTIC CITY

OPENWORKED COLLECTION

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The undisputed identity signature of the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection is the original dial, decorated with ever-changing finishes and details, which enhance the excellence and charm of the horological art. Each creation boasts an appealing three-dimensional display that endows it with a modern style. 

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The sophisticated openworked structure, evoking the imaginary architecture of elevated intersections in a futuristic city, gives the multi-layered dial an even more dynamic look. In addition, the unique geometry and arrangement of the bridges create fascinating and unique aesthetic effects. Each timepiece in the ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collection allows the wearer to dive into its powerful “engine” without taking it off the wrist.

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All this beauty is encased in the classic round “Piccadilly” case, a reminder of the brand’s British origins. Revamped in 2017 by renowned designer Eric Giroud, it now features a smoother and more sinuous shape than the original.  All ONE & TWO OPENWORKED collections are available in 38- and 42-mm case sizes. The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet: inspiration

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The focus of the new “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, both from a structural and conceptual point of view, is the Tourbillon complication, whose cage containing the regulating organ and rotating on its own axis is able to offset the negative effects of the earth’s gravity by optimising timekeeping precision. This device, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, is a little like allowing the watch to escape from the earth’s gravitational field, placing it almost outside the atmosphere and the orbit of our planet, in the sidereal space.

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The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” invites the imagination to enter a metaverse city of futuristic architecture illuminated by rays of light and fluorescent colours. Among the vibrant, bright tones, the choice of ultra-violet makes the dial’s grid of this latest creation stand out. 

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This specific, mysterious and fascinating shade surrounds and highlights the main components of the movement, such as the flying tourbillon, the off-centre micro-rotor, the power reserve indicator and the barrel, which stand out against the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate. 

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It abstracts this horological masterpiece from the ordinary and elevates it to the universe of heavenly bodies.

A UNIQUE AND FUTURISTIC STYLE

The case

The Piccadilly case of the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is crafted from grade 5 titanium. Its flat, horizontally brushed case band, recessed in relation to the polished, domed bezel and case back, gives it a sober, modern aesthetics that is immediately reminiscent of Speake Marin. The flared, grooved crown and the geometric lugs, which hold the strap attachment bars, secured by two screws, complete the harmonious appearance.

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Water-resistant to 3 ATM, it is fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal protecting the dial and the see-through case back revealing the bienfacture of the exquisite calibre that powers this creation. Available in 38 mm and 42 mm cases, the timepiece is complemented by a black rubber strap fastened to the wrist with a titanium pin buckle.

A dynamic and striking 3D watch face

Beneath the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the performance of the movement is at work. As in a prestigious theatre production, where the scenography is meticulously planned, the display becomes the stage on which the main actors play their roles.

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The satin-brushed and rhodium-plated dial is multilayered, with carved microbeaded pockets which create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles angled at 45° in a vibrant ultra-violet hue obtained through positive PDV coating.

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The skilful mix of finishes, combined with the choice of a bright colour such as Ultra-Violet, allows for extraordinary light effects that emphasise the SMA05 manufacture calibre. The most striking feature at first glance is the tourbillon cage, which is characterised by the emblematic motif of the mirror-polished topping tool, the symbol of the Geneva-based Maison. 

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This is followed by other visually intriguing components such as the rhodium-plated barrel drum, symmetrical to the complication, embellished with concentric circles and engraved “One & Two Openworked - Flying Tourbillon”. Mirrored are the oscillating weight and power reserve, whose luminescent arrow indicates the elapsed power reserve when it reaches the red dot on the semi-arc. 

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The flange is finished in a circular pattern and has a minute track with light grey markers. These are highlighted at 5-minute intervals by Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow. The heart-shaped hands are also luminescent and clearly visible in all lighting conditions.

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The rhodium-plated, microbeaded bridges on the barrel and micro-rotor, with their chamfered edges, add further depth to the display.

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The end result defines this dial as a true work of art in which creative talent and technical mastery come together to express Speake Marin’s bold and passionate vision of haute horlogerie, where innovation meets savoir-faire.

The uniqueness of the mechanical movement signed by Speake Marin

The SMA05 calibre powering the “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet”, is part of the collection of mechanical movements developed in-house by Le Cercle Des Horlogers, the Manufacture of Speake Marin

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With an automatic winding, it operates at a frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and offers a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. It is distinguished by its tourbillon mechanism at 1.30 o’clock: an unusual position that stands out as unique in the watchmaking panorama due to the difficulties of avoiding the time-setting module and now a distinctive and recognised feature of the Maison.

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It is a flying tourbillon, fixed at only one point, which requires an extremely precise construction to guarantee the perfect balance of the entire device. A construction that allows the non-stop dance of the regulating organ on the dial side to be admired to the full, and also enhances its motion: the tourbillon appears to float in mid-air and performs a complete rotation on its own axis in one minute.

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If the tourbillon is an eye-catcher, it is also thanks to its harmonious and well-balanced layout, in which another iconic element of Speake Marin’s mechanical art plays a starring role: the off-centre micro-rotor, perfectly integrated into the volume of the calibre. Crafted from rhodium-plated tungsten, it is positioned symmetrically in relation to the power reserve.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   On the rear, the bevelled black rhodium-plated bridges, with their 1.5 mm Côtes de Genève finish, embrace the PVD-coated central bridge, which shows the fascinating motion of the movements’ gears.

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Since its first launch in 2020, the Openworked Tourbillon has seen several versions, always produced in limited quantities and immediately becoming the object of desire of the most demanding collectors. The emphasis on the Ultra-Violet shade which highlights this superlative movement, endows this unprecedented interpretation of the Manufacture’s tourbillon with a new personality.

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The “Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet” is a limited production of only 5 pieces with a 42 mm case and an additional 4 pieces measuring 38 mm in diameter. Availability as of 9 April 2024

Suggested retail price: CHF 79 500 (38mm), CHF 79 900 (42mm) excluding taxes

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: One & Two

Model: One&Two OPENWORKED Flying Tourbillon Ultra-Violet
 

References -Titanium

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38mm: 423811040
 
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42mm: 424211040
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MOVEMENT
Mechanical self-winding movement
Calibre SMA05 
Hours, Minutes, Tourbillon between 1 and 2 o’clock
72-hour power reserve between 7 and 8 o’clock
Tourbillon cage : 62 components (mobile) + 1 fixed component, 0,56gr
Casing diameter: 34 mm
Thickness: 7.15 mm (without hands)
Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
290 components
33 jewels
Screw balance-wheel
Swiss lever escapement
Power reserve: 72-hour (when fully wound)
Black rhodium-plated and microbeaded mainplate
Bridges: black rhodium-plated with bevelled edges, Côtes de Genève with 1.5mm stripes, central
openworked bridge with black PVD coating, 5N gold-plated engraving
Tungsten micro-rotor with laser-engraved concentric circle pattern
INDICATIONS
Hours Minutes. seconds on the tourbillon cage at 1:30, power reserve at 7:30
DIAL
Openworked dial
  • Multilayer satin-finished and rhodium-plated dia l, gri d wit h positive ultra-violet PVD coating, microbeaded bevelled edges, rhodium-plated microbeaded pockets
  • Luminescent rhodium-plated heart-shaped hands with blue glow
  • Minutes flange with light grey Super-LumiNova indices with blue lighting at 5-minutes intervals
  • Tourbillon cage at 1:30: with topping tool-shaped bridge, rhodium-plated, mirror-polished, with bevelled profiles
  • Engraved barrel with the inscription “One & Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” at 10:00
  • Satin finish oscillating weight with laser-engraved circles
  • Power reserve at 7:30, triangular pointer with Super-LumiNova emitting blue glow, light grey and bright red dots for elapsed autonomy indication.
CASE
New generation Piccadilly case
Grade 5 polished-brushed titanium
Diameter: 38 or 42 mm
Thickness: 12.35 mm
Grooved flared crown with engraved logo
Screw-down case back
Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on dial and case back
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 metres)
STRAP
Black rubber strap with grade 5 titanium pin buckle embellished the Maison’s logo.

 LIMITED EDITION    38 mm case: 4 pieces / 42 mm case: 5 pieces

🔴 Price 38 mm Titanium CHF  79,500 /42 mm Titanium CHF  79,900💰excluding taxes


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Press Release - 2024
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Madelyne Rebischung
E-mail: madelyne@speake-marin.com
Mobile: +41 (0)79 943 18 15

Wissem Bakhchi
E-mail: wissem@speake-marin.com
Mobile: +41 79 456 09 55
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33C, AVENUE DE MIREMONT,
1206 GENEVA SWITZERLAND 
Should you need additional information, feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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