Wednesday, May 5, 2021

F.P.Journe – Tourbillon SOUVERAIN Gold BOUTIQUE Edition


F.P.JourneTourbillon SOUVERAIN Gold Back Dial BOUTIQUE 20th Anniversary Edition 2021


 
THE TOURBILLON SOUVERAIN BOUTIQUE EDITION WITH BLACK DIAL ON 18K 6N GOLD CASE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE F.P.JOURNE BOUTIQUES AND ESPACES AROUND THE WORLD.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 A New Tourbillon Souverain to Celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the Tourbillon Souverain

The innovative and revolutionary horological creator François-Paul Journe has inspired a generation of contemporary watchmakers with the originality of his creations, his quest for precision, his timeless and immediately recognisable style, and his respect for horological ethics and traditions.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Fascinated by the tourbillon since his youth, François-Paul Journe began to make his first watch when he was 20 - entirely by hand. It was a tourbillon pocket watch. In 1991, he created his first tourbillon wristwatch, selling the very small number of examples to a handful of knowledgeable collectors. In 1999, he launched the first Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité in wristwatch form. It was sold by subscription and was much sought-after by collectors who rival with each other to get on the short list of 20 examples.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The year 2003 saw the birth of the new generation of Tourbillon Souverain, to which François-Paul Journe added natural deadbeat second. Then, to make the watches even more desirable, he produced his haute horlogerie movements in 18k rose Gold, a first in the world of modern mechanical watchmaking.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

To celebrate the 20 th anniversary of this emblematic wristwatch, F.P.Journe has developed a tourbillon whose cage is vertical, rather than the traditional horizontal cage. “I designed this vertical tourbillon so that the tourbillon’s functions remain constant whether the watch lies flat or is placed on its side, and the amplitude is subsequently the same, whether with a deployant clasp lying on the side or with an ardillon buckle lying flat”.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


This vertical tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité and deadbeat second makes one revolution every 30 seconds. This is faster than the usual time of one minute, making the technical prowess even more visually astonishing. Surrounding the cage, a cone-shaped mirror-polished ring concentrates light, reflecting the tourbillon cage. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

A second reflector was created on the movement side to provide light around the tourbillon cage. The 4N rose Gold bridges that form the dial are decorated with “Clous de Paris” guilloche with, for the first time, an enamel hour dial at 3 o’clock. The new Tourbillon Souverain also features an 80-hour power reserve at 12 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock; the remontoir d’égalité is placed at 7 o’clock.

The constant-force device

“From ancient times, humankind has constantly attempted to measure time by dividing it into equal fractions and inventing the notion of isochronism! Only with the arrival of the first mechanical clocks did specialists begin to seek a means of equalising the force reaching the es-capement. The balance-spring did not yet exist and the so-called “foliot” balance had an irregular beat due to irregular transmission of force because of the imperfections of the gearing. At the time, clocks were equipped with just one hand, which completed a revolution once every 12 hours, since their degree of imprecision did not permit the measurement of minutes. After the invention of the mainspring, which would en-able the construction of table-clocks, 15 th century watchmaker Jost Bürgi had the idea of adding an extra gear representing an inde-pendent system wound in short spurts by the mainspring. The escapement thus ensured a more constant flow and allowed several months of autonomy: this was the first remontoire or constant-force device!

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Later, 17 th century Dutch watchmaker Christiaan Huygens invented the balance-spring and the pendulum. These innovations would give both clocks and watches an unprecedented degree of precision timekeeping: the minute hand became widespread and the constant-force device fell into oblivion for around a century. With the arrival of the 18 th century, known as the Age of Enlightenment, the high requirements relating to astronomical observations and calculations of longitude for maritime navigation called for ever higher levels of precision. As new technical solutions were found, the seconds hand became a common feature on watches of the period. In England, Thomas Mudge invented a con-stant-force device for the H.3 marine chronometer, while famous French watchmaker Robert Robin - Watchmaker to the King - also invented one for his precision regulators. Paradoxically, it was in the 19 th century that the constant-force device became widely used in the construction of clocks intended for buildings - not to remedy any flaws in the springs (since all these clocks ran by driving-weights), but to isolate the time mechanism from the outside hands. This was because the latter were exposed to strong winds and might disturb the mechanism.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Nonetheless, making a constant-force device was a complex and tedious task, causing it to be almost entirely abandoned in the 20 th century, apart from a few rare exceptions: English watchmaker Georges Daniels used it in a tourbillon pocket-watch; his contemporary Anthony Randall built it into a table-clock based on the principle of John Harrison’s H.4; and I myself have incorporated it into three tourbillon pocket-watches, a so-called “sympathique” clock and more recently for the very first time in wristwatch form with the first model in the F.P.Journe - Invenit et Fecit - collection, the Tourbillon Souverain.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


What is fascinating in the principle of the constant-force device is that each watchmaker who has set out to build one has his own personal interpretation: only the basic idea remains the same.”

 The dead-beat second - the art of making time stand still…

Towards the late 17 th century, as clocks were becoming increasingly precise, watchmakers added a hand that enabled them to measure seconds. These “clocks”, which became “pendulum clocks” thanks to the invention of the pendulum balance by the Dutch watchmaker Huy-gens, were almost naturally equipped with a 1 metre-long balance with a period of 1 second. The dial was marked out into 60 subdivisions so that the hand could jump from one second to the next.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


When the first watches indicating seconds were made, some 18 th century watchmakers wanted to achieve the same visual effect as on clocks. To do so, they invented systems extending the period of the balances, the best-known being the “crown-wheel escapement with pendulum” or the huge balance by Mr. Pouzait. Nonetheless, these systems were rapidly abandoned, since they were detrimental to precision.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Thus, without an additional system, the hand started to beat out the half-second, the most widespread frequency of the time. The extreme ease with which time could be read thank to a seconds-beating hand, which remained motionless and only moved when the second changed, gave 19 th century watchmakers some new ideas.

Three systems known as “deadbeat seconds” came into use:

The first consisted of a small additional gear train activated by a spring connected to the mainspring. Each second, the hand was released by the watch escapement. This so-called “independent deadbeat seconds” offered the advantage of not affecting the precision of the watch and could be disconnected at will by the user.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The second comprised an additional gear-train running from the escape-wheel to an additional seconds wheel equipped with 60 teeth held by a spring. This extremely simple system was extremely prejudicial to precision.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


In the third
, a so-called “single-beat escapement” waited for the balance to complete two oscillations in order for the escape-wheel to move forward every second. These escapements were extremely popular in watches produced in China, since according to Chinese philosophy, this corresponded to making time stand still. Time was no longer in control, since it was mastered by the wearer…

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Today, the Tourbillon Souverain is equipped with a “natural deadbeat seconds” device. The latter is mounted on one of the wheels of the con-stant-force device and cannot in any way affect the precision of the watch.  

================================
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: BOUTIQUE  SOUVERAIN

Model: Tourbillon SOUVERAINE BOUTIQUE Edition
This edition is available only in the F.P.Journe boutiques.

Mouvement
Calibre 1519
    18K rose Gold
    Manual winding
    29 turns of crown
Dimensions:
    Overall diameter : 34.60 mm
    Cased-up diameter : 34.20 mm
    Overall height : 10.00 mm
    Height of winding stem : 3.66 mm
    Diameter of stem thread : S1.20 mm
Balance:
    4 inertia weights
    Flat Anachron balance spring with Philips overcoil
    Pinned stud
    Free-sprung
    Spring pinned to collet
Frequency:    21'600 VPH, 3 Hz
Inertia:    11 mg/cm2
Angle of lift:    52°
Amplitude:
    0h dial up : > 260°
    24h vertical : > 260°
Main characteristics:
    Vertical Tourbillon with constant force and dead second
    2 position winding crown
    Manual winding in position 1
    Time adjustment by crown in position 2
Escapement:
    15 tooth escape wheel
    90° anchor fork
Indications:
  •     Hours and minutes at 3h
  •     Small second at 6h
  •     Power reserve at 12h
  •     Vertical Tourbillon at 9h
Power reserve:    80 ± 2 hours
Decoration:
    High quality
    Guilloche Clous de Paris on bridges
    Circular Geneva Waves on base plate
    Screw heads polished and bevelled
    Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
    Platinum or 18K 6N Gold
    Diameter: 42.00 mm
    Height: 13.60 mm
Dial
Dial formed by the 18K rose Gold bridges engraved, painted, and decorated with “Clous de Paris” guilloché with a Grand Feu enamel hour dial at 3 o’clock in 18K white Gold
Number of components:
    Mouvement : 230
    Cased on leather strap : 260
    Jewels : 32
Strap
Black alligator with 18K red Gold or Platinum clasp

⭕️ Patents

  • 1️⃣ European patent — EP 1760 544 A1

Power reserve indicator device

  • 2️⃣ European patent — EP 1528 443 A1

Remontoir and deadbeat seconds

--------------------------------------------- 
Press release - 2021
----------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - fpjourneofficial
--------------------------------------------
MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
--------------------------------------------------------------
www.F.P.Journe.com 

Tuesday, May 4, 2021

ORIS – Diver AQUIS Depth Gauge

ORISDIVING AQUIS Depth Gauge 45,8mm Stainless steel - 2021

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 Oris is proud to announce the second generation Aquis Depth Gauge one of the world’s most innovative and most distinctive high performance diver’s watches.

Back into the deep

Known affectionately as ‘the watch with a hole’, the Aquis Depth Gauge uses the scientific principles of the Boyle-Mariotte Law to create a gauge that clearly measures depth during a dive 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 


The patented system works by allowing water through a hole cutint o the sapphire crystal at 12 o’clock and into a channel milled around the outer edge of the crystal. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


This creates a watermark that corresponds to a gauge clearly indicated in yellow on the dial.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The new model captures and refines the spirit and functional ity of the original, delivering even higher performance when it really matters deep below the ocean surface.

The new Aquis Depth Gauge has three key improvements:

1️⃣. Depth gauge system
In the new watch, the process used to mill the channel into the out er edge of the crystal has been refined so the accuracy and legibility of the gauge are increased. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


2️⃣. Metres to feet conversion chart

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The case back has been re engineered so the metres to feet conversion chart is always set at 90 degrees to the 12 o’cloc k position.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


For divers relying on the chart on a regular basis, this will greatly enhance their experience of the watch.

3️⃣. Oris’s new patented Quick Strap Change system

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Owners can now switch the stainless steel metal bracelet and ru bber strap quickly, safely and securely without needing a tool or a visit to a jeweller. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


-------------------------------------------

Technical Specifications


Collection: DIVING  

Model: Oris AQUIS Depth Gauge

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  


Ref. No. 01 733 7755 4154-Set MB

Case
Material:
Multi-piece stainless steel case, uni-directional rotating bezel with ceramic insert
Size: 45.80 mm, 1.803 inches
Top Glass: Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside
Case back: steel, screwed, engraved with metres-to-feet conversion chart
Operating Devices: Stainless steel screw-in security crown
Water Resistance: 50 bar/500 m
Outerhorn Width: 24 mm
Movement
Automatic movement Oris 733, based on Sellita SW 200-1,
Dimensions: Ø 25.60 mm, 11 1/2’’’
Winding: Automatic winding, with red rotor
Power-Reserve: 38 hours
Vibrations: 4 Hz (28’800 A/h)

Jewels: 26
Functions
Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window,
instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second

Dial
Design: Black
Luminous Material: Indices and hands Super-LumiNova® BG W9
Indices: Applied
Bracelet
Stainless steel metal bracelet or black rubber strap,
both with Oris-patented Quick Strap Change system and Oris-developed
folding security clasp with extension and safety anchor systems

Availability
May 2021

Swiss retail price
CHF 3,700 MB, 3’600 RS
Presented in a waterproof Peli case diving box


-----------------------------------------
 www.facebook.com - ORIS
----------------------------------------------------------
www.Oris.ch