Wednesday, May 8, 2019

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC Tecnica Ombre Noire



















Parmigiani FleurierTORIC Tecnica Ombre Noire Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Gold 45 Edition - Unique piece


TECNICA OMBRE NOIRE
A name shrouded in mystery for a watch 
that plays with appearances

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The Tecnica Ombre Noire is an exceptional timepiece in more ways than one. This unique, poetically named piece by Parmigiani Fleurier celebrates a variety of complications from the great tradition of Haute Horlogerie, such as the perpetual calendar, minute repeater and tourbillon, whilst offering a very contemporary finish.

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As its name suggests, the Tecnica Ombre Noire puts the emphasis on darkness. The "rice-grain" guilloché slate-coloured gold dial contrasts with the 18-carat rose gold indices. An aperture at 6 o'clock allows you to admire the tourbillon, while the month, date, day and leap year indications, as well as the power reserve, occupy the upper part of the dial. The skeletonised delta-shaped hour and minute hands complete the ensemble and allow you to read the different measurements made possible by this highly complex timepiece.

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The Tecnica Ombre Noire features an 18-carat rose gold case designed to optimise the resonance of the minute repeater chime. The case houses "cathedral" chimes. This type of chime makes the casing up operation even more complex than a standard complication.

The piece also features Parmigiani Fleurier's iconic teardrop-shaped lugs. These were inspired by Fibonacci and his golden ratio, both so important to Michel Parmigiani in all of his creations.

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As its name suggests, the Tecnica Ombre Noire is shrouded in mystery. For example, the minute repeater activator is integrated in the bezel. The traditional side bolt, which makes this grand horological complication so beloved of connoisseurs, is therefore absent. This mechanism posed a challenge for the development teams when ensuring the water resistance of the timepiece, as the surface area to be protected from water is much larger when a bezel is present.

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Three grand complications are integrated in the hand-wound movement that drives the Tecnica Ombre Noire. In addition to the minute repeater with "cathedral" chimes, a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar place this timepiece in the category of the most complex timepieces in Haute Horlogerie.

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As is the case for all Parmigiani Fleurier creations, all of the movement components were treated with the most delicate decorative work.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: TORIC 

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REFERENCE PFH466-1000201-HA1441

CASE
Polished 18-ct rose gold
Dimensions: Ø 45 mm, thickness: 13 mm, crown: Ø 7 mm
Glasses: anti-reflective sapphire
Back engraving: individual number, « MODELE UNIQU
W.R. 10 meters
DIAL
Colour:
Slate
Material: Gold

Finishing: Guilloché «grain de riz»
Index: 18-ct solid rose gold appliques
HANDS Skeleton delta-shaped
CALIBER
PF351, TOURBILLON, MANUAL WINDING

Functions
Hours, minutes, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, power reserve & tourbillon
Power reserve 42 hours
Frequency 21’000 Vph (3 Hz)
Jewels 39
Nb of components 504

Total dimensions Ø 29.90 mm, thickness: 7.70 mm
Decoration Hand-beveled and decorated components featuring large Côtes de Genève
Bells Cathedral
SRAP 
Hermès Black alligator strap with 18ct rose gold pin buckle

RETAIL PRICE 490’000 CHF

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Press release - 2019
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Contact
Tel-  +41 32 862 66 30
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Tuesday, May 7, 2019

ZENITH – DEFY El Primero Double Tourbillon Edition
















ZENITHDEFY El Primero Double Tourbillon 46mm Chronograph Limited Edition


Power, speed and precision

Two years ago, Zenith introduced the revolutionary Defy El Primero 21, the only high-frequency automatic chronograph designed to measure hundredths of a second, ushering watchmaking firmly into the 21st century.

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In 2019, the Swiss Manufacture is taking another big leap with the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon: an innovative model powered by the El Primero 9020 calibre and its two separate escapements. One of the latter serves to keep the chronograph beating at an exceptional frequency and power the 1/100th of a second display, while the other ensures the lasting precision of the watch. This model is available in two limited editions: a 10-piece platinum version and a 50-unit carbon interpretation.

One sweep of the dial per second

With its DEFY collection, Zenith is constantly innovating and setting the standard for tomorrow's watchmaking: after the unequalled Defy El Primero 21, the first serially produced mechanical chronograph to provide hundredth of a second measurement; followed by the Defy Lab, the world’s most accurate mechanical watch with an unprecedented oscillator, the Haute Horlogerie manufacturer is unveiling the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon. This unprecedented combination of horological complications – two tourbillons and a 1/100th of a second chronograph – features truly exceptional qualities.

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A distillation of technology, innovation, performance and design, the latest addition to the Defy collection asserts itself in terms of both its construction and its aesthetics. For this model, Zenith has developed two tourbillons, a first for the Maison. In an additional feat, one of the tourbillons (at 10 o'clock) is coupled with and regulates the chronograph measuring and displaying hundredths of a second in a perfectly legible manner.

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Beating a frequency of 50 Hz (360,000 vibrations per hour) with its carriage performing a complete rotation every five seconds, this tourbillon is the fastest in the world. It drives the chronograph hand at the amazing speed of one full turn of the dial per second. The second tourbillon (at 8 o'clock), operating at 5 Hz with a carriage performing one rotation per minute, regulates the rate of the watch, meaning the hours, minutes and seconds.

 A vivid expression of futuristic horology

Echoing this dual architecture, two dedicated barrels – one for the watch and the other for the chronograph – store and deliver energy. They respectively provide 60 hours of power reserve for the watch and 50 minutes for the 1/100th of a second chronograph.

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Heir to the legendary 1969 El Primero, this new high-frequency in-house movement drives the hours, minutes, 1/100th of a second chronograph, 60-second and 30-minute counters (at 6 and 9 o'clock respectively), along with a chronograph power-reserve indicator at 12 o'clock. As a further guarantee of precision, the El Primero 9020 calibre is chronometer-certified by an independent body (TimeLab).

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While vividly expressing futuristic, technical and assertive watchmaking, the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon also stands out for its powerful aesthetics. With its generously openworked dial accentuated by a two-tone treatment – a new signature of Zenith Haute Horlogerie movements – El Primero 9020 and its 311 components are shown to full advantage. The blue-treated tourbillon carriages with the Zenith star, along with the bridges and baseplate, feature polished angles that further enhance the 3D view of this stunning mechanism in motion.

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Whether crafted in platinum with the collection’s characteristic satin-brushed and polished finishes and a sapphire case-back, or entirely made of carbon, the case is water-resistant to 100 metres. It is secured to the wrist with a luxurious high-tech black rubber strap, coated with alligator leather or Cordura-patterned.

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Effectively combining aesthetics, functionality and polymorphism, its composition is resistant, durable and hypoallergenic, while offering infinite possibilities for variations in textures, colours and topstitching. The platinum Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon is available in a 10-piece limited edition, while the carbon model is limited to 50 units.

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Technical Specifications

Model :  DEFY El Primero Double Tourbillon


Reference:     40.9000.9020/78.R582 - Platinum 
Reference:     40.910.9000.9020/79.R918 - Carbon

UNIQUE SELLING POINTS
1/100th of a second Double Tourbillon Chronograph movement
1 Tourbillon escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH - 5 Hz) ;
1 Tourbillon escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH - 50Hz)
Exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the chronograph hand
Chronometer-certified by Timelab


MOVEMENT
Movement El Primero 9020, Automatic
Calibre 15 ¾ ``` (Diameter: 35.8 mm)
Movement thickness: 7.9 mm
Components: 311
Exclusive two-tone signature on plates and bridges
Jewels: 59
Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power-reserve approx.: 50 hours
Finishes: Special oscillating weight with satin-brushed finishes
FUNCTIONS
Hours and minutes in the centre
Double Tourbillon:
🔵1 escapement for the Watch (36,000 VpH / 5 Hz – the carriage makes one full turn in 60 seconds)
🔵1 escapement for the Chronograph (360,000 VpH / 50 Hz – the carriage performs a complete rotation in 5 sec)
1/100th of a second chronograph:
  • - Central chronograph hand that makes one sweep of the dial per second
  • - 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock
  • - 60-second counter at 6 o'clock
  • - Chronograph power-reserve indication at 12 o'clock
CASE
  • Material: Platinum 950
  • Material: Black carbon
Diameter: 46 mm
Diameter opening: 36 mm
Thickness: 14.50 mm
Case-back: Transparent sapphire crystal
Water-resistance: 10 ATM
DIAL & HANDS 
Dial: Openworked
Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1
Hands : Rhodium-plated and faceted gold, coated with Super-LumiNova® SLN C1
STRAP AND BUCKLE
  • Strap: Black rubber with black alligator leather coating
Buckle: Titanium & white gold double folding clasp
  • Bracelet: Black rubber with Cordura-patterned blue rubber
Buckle: Titanium double folding clasp with black carbon head


Limited Edition
Platinum Exclusively only 10-Piece 
Available Carbon version 50-Piece

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Press Release - 2019
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ZENITH | Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865
Rue des Billodes 34-36 | CH-2400 Le Locle
Minh-Tan-Bui
Tel. +41 32 930 65 59
Mobile +41 79 515 47 54
Email: minh-tan.bui@zenith-watches.com
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