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Born from a pioneering spirit in 2001, and
completely redesigned in 2013 to bring it into line with the seafaring
theme cherished by Ulysse Nardin, the Freak Cruiser is hoisting the
mainsail and heading for blue ocean waters. As spectacular as ever with
its flying “Carrousel-Tourbillon” and its Dual Ulysse escapement in
silicon, this exceptional timepiece now wears its bezel, rotating lower
bridge and rotating upper bridge in deep aquatic colors. Like an old
sea-dog, it has acquired the name Blue Cruiser on its voyages.
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Never before has a watch accomplished such a conceptual and
technological leap forward for watchmaking – a feat that remains
unrivalled even today. Stripped of its dial and hands, the Blue Cruiser
is designed so that the movement revolves on itself.
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Connected to the
center of this incredible ship, the rotating lower bridge indicates the
hours, while the upper bridge, in the form of a skeletonized ship's
anchor – bearing the gear train, the balance spring and the exclusive
Dual Ulysse silicon escapement – shows the minutes.
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Named the flying
Carrousel-Tourbillon, this system which defies the imagination is
entirely free floating, as it no longer includes the center pin which in
previous incarnations was stowed with the sapphire crystal to support
the entire structure.
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The Blue Cruiser is also unusual in the way it is operated. Stripped
of a crown and push-pieces, it is set using the rotating bezel, in both
directions. As for winding the barrel – designed to offer a power
reserve of more than seven days – this is done using the rear bezel
mounted on ball bearings. These two elements – the front and lower
bezels – are thus an integral part of this breathtaking manual-wind
movement, visible through the open back.
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In 18 ct white or rose gold, this avant-garde vessel measures a
respectable 45 mm in diameter, a dimension that appeals rather than
repels. Very elegant mounted on a blue or brown alligator strap with
deployment clasp, the Blue Cruiser is, by its very nature, suited to
voyages of all kinds.
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The X-TREM-1 Ultimate watchmaking by Christophe Claret
X-TREM-1, the first of a new generation of timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields.
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X for eXperimental T for Time R for Research E for Engineering M for Mechanism
X-TREM. The concept certainly deserves its name. It expresses Christophe Claret’s determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating certain fields of research never previously applied in this domain.
The Manufacture from Le Locle presents the first creation in a new
X-TREM collection that will be exceptional in all ways. X-TREM-1
features a tourbillon timepiece and uses magnetic fields to indicate the
hours and minutes.
The challenge is bold and some might say a little crazy:
How could someone possibly think about introducing a magnetic field –
the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a watch?
That is what purists are liable to say. And yet Christophe Claret has
done just that by creating a system where two small steel spheres –
hollowed to make them lighter – encased within two sapphire tubes placed
to the right and left of the caseband, are controlled by precision
magnetic fields generated by two miniature magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema
nanofibres all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel,
capable of withstanding tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire
thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in diameter).
The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret
on an accelerated-wear simulator corresponding to six years of
operation. The spheres have no mechanical connection with the
movement, with each one floating inside the two tubes and creating
outstanding horological magic.
“We developed this technology with the School of Business and
Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by
Professor Besson,” explains Christophe Claret. “What’s more, the
magnetic fields have been focused so that they have no effect whatsoever
on the mechanisms – apart from the task assigned to them, which is to
help display the time in a quite incredible and original way.”
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The initial project, which was in fact very different from the one now
being presented, was proposed by two Neuchâtel watchmakers, Frédéric
Richard and Olivier Randin, to Christophe Claret – who decided to
acquire the rights and patent.
The “floating” sphere display system of the X-TREM-1 is not the only
technical feat involved. The entire construction and finishing of this
timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically imposed by
Christophe
Claret.
Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex mainplate
and the bridges. A determination to enhance ergonomics and reduce
volumes guided the designer in his choices. This is indeed a first for
such a complex calibre, especially one made in titanium. The case is
composed of titanium and white or red gold, or platinum, and produced in
limited series of eight per model. The flying tourbillon is fitted with
double ceramic bearings to enhance its shock-resistance. It is inclined
at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to
the wearer.
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The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels – a
necessity in this case, since they enable the use of a sophisticated
display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the
accuracy of the watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon,
the second for the hours and minutes. The timing gear train (first
barrel) is regulated by the tourbillon; while the display gear train is
regulated by a special escapement which picks up the relevant
information from the timing gear train. The latter is composed of a
lever that releases a tooth of the pallet-wheel of the display gear
train every 25 seconds, which is is driven by a cam connected to the
timing gear train. When one of the gear trains reaches the end of the
power reserve of its respective barrel, the escapement interrupts the
running of its neighbour. This conception offers an important advantage
in that the tourbillon and display gear trains are independent, thus
avoiding disturbances, optimising power reserve and endowing the watch
with excellent precision.
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But that’s not all. For Christophe Claret, every technical innovation
must be validated and approved, which is why each movement is hand
assembled from start to finish by the same watchmaker who ensures its
technical and aesthetic qualities. At the end of the process, the
timepiece undergoes a stringent set of internal testing in the THF (Test
Homologation Fiabilité) workshop, after which it earns a certificate
guaranteeing its quality and precision.
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The underlying haute horlogerie criteria governing all
activities conducted within the Manufacture also apply to the finishing
and the exterior of the timepiece: components are hand-bevelled, flanks
are straight-grained, sinks on solid gears are polished and the spokes
on open-worked gears are bevelled and polished, screw heads are
mirror-polished, and cams, bridges and the tourbillon cage are
mirror-polished on the visible side. Christophe Claret devotes
particular care to the finishing of each component, which is designed to
ensure the overall harmony and aesthetic coherence of the model.
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Christophe Claret considers the creation of each object as a collective challenge that takes shape by dint of passion and perseverance, along with a significant measure of emotions and dreams. He is never happy just to redo something that has already been done. The brand is resolutely dedicated to technological innovation and never hesitates to venture off the beaten track in its quest to offer unprecedented ways of reading the time.
CALIBRE FLY11: Dimensions: 26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm Number of parts: 419 Number of jewels: 64 Power reserve: 50+ hours Barrels: Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration. Tourbillon:
Escapement: Swiss lever type
Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission Functions:
Mystery hours and minutes displayed on each side of the case, with indications provided by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical sapphire tubes - The metal spheres are driven by magnetic carriages following a thread. Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
Mechanical, hand-wound movement
Open barrel acts as movement state-of-wind indicator: when the movement is fully wound the spring is centered in the barrel Mainplate:
Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
Open-worked ratchet and wheel Distinctive features:
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Fine adjustment system for the retrograde display return-spring EXTERIOR: Case:
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft Material:
Polished white gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Polished rose gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Platinum/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium Hour and minute displays:
Hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphire Pusher: Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband at 12 o’clock Bows: Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback Strap: Black hand-sewn alligator leather or rubber-touch leather fitted with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case Buckle: Titanium folding clasp with gold buckle Distinctive features: Super-LumiNova along the side of the caseband enables time reading in the dark Number of watches: Each version is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces
VULCAIN CONSOLIDATES ITS NOW FAMOUS “AVIATOR” RANGE WITH A NEW RESOLUTELY SPORTY, MASCULINE MODEL
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The longstanding ties between the Manufacture in Le Locle and the field of aviation date back to the 1950s in Switzerland, when Vulcainwatches equipped pilots of the national airline company and subsequently found their way across the Atlantic. It was in 1960 that Captain Richard F. Cyr of the US Navy described his attachment to its timepiece“My small friend and I have managed to survive most everything together (…) I am reluctant to let the ordinary jeweler touch it”.
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Vulcain accordingly decided to dedicate a full-fledged collection to these knights of the sky: the “Aviator” range.
CASE Case: 316L Steel Pusher: all rhodium or with blue, black or red head Case-back: sapphire Dial: silver, charcoal grey, blue or chocolate rhodiumed applies Diameter: 44,60 mm Height: 15,40 mm Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal Water resistance: 10 ATM CALIBRE VULCAIN AUTOMATIC V- 59 Movement: 13¼-lignes mechanical chronograph unidirectional self-winding calibre with date,
27 jewels, 247 components, lift angle 49° Decoration: nickel coating, skeleton rotor Functions: hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock,
date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph,
30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock,
12-hour counter at 6 o’clock Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour Power reserve: 48 hours STRAP Strap: black / brown leather Dimensions: 23/20 mm Buckle: steel folding clasp
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This year, the Manufacture is offering a new “Aviator Instrument Chronograph” collection comprising six references – equipped with a polished case for the “classic” range and a brushed case for the “sports” range.
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The elegance of this chronograph with its refined, sophisticated finishes displays a concern for detail that highlights its virile and contemporary nature.
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Playing on contrasting effects, the Arabic numerals are enhanced with Superluminova, while the pushpieces match the colour of the dial and the case features alternating polished and brushed finishes.
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Equipped with hour and minute hands, a date window at 6 o’clock, a chronograph sweep-seconds hand, as well as 30-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively, this timepiece springs a surprise at 9 o’clock.
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In a nod to aviation, it features a seconds counter reminiscent of the “Alarm Flag” appearing on radio altimeter cockpit instruments. Reinforcing the dynamic design of this model, the oscillating weight has been openworked to provide a glimpse of the movement.
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VULCAIN – Aviator Instrument Chronograph - SPORT
----------------------------------------- Technical Specifications
CASE
Case: 316L Steel
Pusher: all rhodium or with blue, black or red head
Case-back: sapphire Dial: silver, charcoal grey, blue or chocolate rhodiumed applies
Diameter: 44,60 mm
Height: 15,40 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 10 ATM CALIBRE VULCAIN AUTOMATIC V- 59 Movement: 13¼-lignes mechanical chronograph unidirectional self-winding calibre with date,
27 jewels, 247 components, lift angle 49° Decoration: nickel coating, skeleton rotor Functions: hour, minute, seconds counter at 9 o’clock,
date window at 6 o’clock, centre second chronograph,
30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock,
12-hour counter at 6 o’clock Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour Power reserve: 48 hours STRAP Strap: black / blue / chestnut leather
Dimensions: 23/20 mm Buckle: steel folding clasp
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In tribute to Marzio Villa’s passion for timed- and high-speed auto
races, Cuervo y Sobrinos has created Historiador Racing, a special watch
that will appeal to actual racing drivers.
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The new Historiador Racing collection takes its inspiration from the
details of vintage cars. The rear of the steel case is engraved with the
word “racing”, while the dial is inspired by the wheel spokes of
vintage cars and the big wing nuts attaching the wheels to their hubs.
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The Historiador Racing, housed in a thin, stainless steel case has a
self-winding CYS 5102ETA 2824-2 / SW 200-1 movement equipped with two barrels to
ensure a 38-hour power reserve. Outstanding on the spoked dial are
central hands in steel with superluminova, the serial number and date at
3 o'clock.
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The Historiador Racing is made in a limited edition of 200 pieces,
exclusively for drivers in the race, and the trademark is engraved on
the back of each watch together with the number of the car. The watch
will also be sold in a version dedicated to real racing buffs.
The summer regularity event by Cuervo y Sobrinos returns from 3 to 6 July 2014.
A new and exciting course, starting from Milan in the direction of the great lakes and the epic Alpine passes among Italy, Switzerland and Austria, such as the Stelvio and the Bernina.
A perfect harmony of elegance and charme, luxury and relaxation combined with hairpin bends, fast curves and breathtaking landscapes, stopwatches and average trials.
The Cuervo y SobrinosCup is a classic international regularity rally that the CSAI has included among “Great Events”, the highest-ranking races on the Italian calendar. It will follow a route of approximately 600 km and be open to a maximum of 60 vintage cars built until 1969, with a special category dedicated to roadsters.
An unmissable weekend for vintage car buffs, but also for the lovers of “tiempo lento” and luxury, of refinement as a lifestyle, as Marzio Villa, event host and chairman of Cuervo y Sobrinos, loves to say.
An event greatly desired by Cuervo y Sobrinos, which will be presenting every driver with a prestigious automatic watch to launch its new Racing Collection, a gift created expressly for the occasion and personalized with the driver’s racing number.
Movement CYS 5102Eta2824-2 / SW 200-1, 11 1/2'''
Automatic
Diameter 25.60 mm
Height 4.60 mm
Power reserve 38 hours
Eta mvt 25 jewels,
SW mvt 26 jewels
Frequency 28'800
Rotor finishing with fan decoration and "CyS"
engraving Functions
Hours, minutes , central second and date Case
Stainless steel
Diameter 40 mm
Height 10.40 mm
Double curved sapphire crystal typical from the 50s
Water resistant to 3 ATM
Case-back engraving with logo “cys racing” and
spokes-wheel design Dial
Complex “racing” dial reproduced the rays of a wheel in
3D
Engraved logo CYS on the middle
External sector with hours Hands
Hours and minute gothic variant,
steel color with white
superluminova,
central seconds steel color, end point in red color Strap
Leather strap
Buckle
Stainless steel folding buckle
Engraved CyS emblem
------------------------------------------------------------- Cuervo y Sobrinos SA
Via C. Maderno 54 CH-6825 Capolago ph. +41 (091) 921 27 73 fax +41 (091) 921 27 75 Press contact: E-mail:info@cuervoysobrinos.ch
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Germany based luxury watch atelier GRIEB & BENZINGER presents two
new bespoke platinum creations: the CENTURION and the CENTURION IMPERIAL.
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As so often the case with GRIEB & BENZINGER’s
masterful skeleton watches, these new creations are the result of
inspiration from an ambitious watch connoisseur looking for incredible,
understated skeleton watches that nonetheless proffer value and
handcrafts, but in an “invisible” way. Naturally, they are imposing in a
mechanical sense, but the casual observer will already be impressed
with their cool looks.
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The interesting collector request inspired
GRIEB & BENZINGER`s CEO and creative whirlwind Georg Bartkowiak to
transfer the brand’s bestseller ― the BLACK TULIP ―into a
never-seen-before platinum execution. The classic BLACK TULIP already
stunning as it is, has been transformed into a glamorous, yet
simultaneously understated, high-end timepiece boasting an all-black
appearance.
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The idea of the totally understated value of solid Platinum (PT950)
beneath a blackened surface in combination with pure
hand-skeletonization appealed to this client’s ideal of discreet taste. A
lavish, almost cheeky, way of expressing understatement that is as-yet
unmatched in the world of luxury timepieces.
Making it even cooler, the masters of GRIEB & BENZINGER combined
this understated look with an expressive, eye-catching bezel pavé-set
with 66 red diamonds in the exclusive Princess cut to create a second
watch.
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The CENTURIONis remarkable in its understatement, though it remains
highly valuable. The dramatic CENTURION IMPERIAL is perfectly topped off
with a bezel set with red Princess-cut diamonds.
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Skeleton Watch CENTURION: Blackened manually wound movement, fully skeletonized,
guilloché and engraved by hand. Solid, completely blackened platinum
PT950 case, 43 mm in diameter, black alligator-skin strap with solid
platinum PT950 blackened buckle.
CENTURION IMPERIAL: Bezel set with 66 red Princess-cut diamonds.
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The iconic TravellerWW.TC opts for an intense black look. The new
Titanium DLC version stands out with its strong character and a high
degree of sophistication. Its highly technical case houses a
manufactured mechanical movement offering world times and chronograph
functions.
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With its deep black tones, the Traveller WW.TC Titanium DLC offers a combination of high performance and understatement. It presents itself as the ideal contemporary traveling companion, thanks to its world time function, which enables the wearer to instantly know the time anywhere in the world. Its chronograph function, with its coal black hue and its specially rubber treated alligator textured strap highlight its sporting and technical character. Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ... BIGFOTO
The center of the dial in the Traveller WW.TC Titanium DLC watch features a three-dimensional representation of the latitudes and longitudes covering the Earth. Uniformly black, this serves as a backdrop to the hours and minutes displays. Both the hands and the hour-markers aid the cause of those who make time their ally, since their luminous coatings make them visible day and night. Designed to capture the shortest snatches of time, the chronograph is equipped with a bright red central seconds hand, with its minutes and hours marked by two separate counters at 9 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ... BIGFOTO
Practical and easy to read, the world time function is displayed on the perimeter of the dial thanks to a first ring indicating both the hours and the periods of day and night. It is constantly in motion and completes a full revolution in 24 hours. An outer second ring is static, and shows the 24 different time zones that divide up the planet. The time in a particular place can be read instantly thanks to the numeral next to the city concerned. A sophisticated and practical solution, the single crown at 3 o’clock can control all its functions. Click on themouse wheelto seethe large size ... BIGFOTO
With 30 different parts, the 44mm diameter case is carved out of titanium, known for its combination of solidity and lightness. Its black inky color is the result of its special diamond-like carbon surface treatment. With the dial protected by a wide, highly resistant sapphire crystal, the case back is held in place by 6 screws and also includes a sapphire crystal aperture to reveal the watch's caliber.
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The GP03300 self-winding mechanical movement was developed by Girard-Perregaux engineers and watchmakers. Produced, assembled and adjusted at the Manufacture, it includes 476 different parts. Equipped with a 46-hour power reserve, it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 HZ) and offers hour, minute, small second, chronograph and date functions as well as world times with day/night indicator.
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