Hermes – ARCEAU Tigre White Gold Edition

Hermès – ARCEAU Tigre White Gold Limited Edition NEW

Hermès Watchmaker introduces the first timepiece crafted using the original Email Ombrant (shaded enamel) technique. This method that took two full years to adapt to a watch uses light to reveal a three-dimensional motif on the dial.

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Echoing the Hermès theme for 2016 “Nature at full gallop”, the great cat featured on the dial of the Arceau Tigre is drawn from an illustration by artist Robert Dallet, who worked with the Maison during the 1980s.

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The technique chosen to showcase the sheer strength of the feline depicted is called Email Ombrant (shaded enamel) and associates the art of engraving with that of enamelling. Derived from lithophanes and originally practiced in the Limoges region of France, this technique serves to create pictures that are revealed only when light passes through them. The motif is negative-carved in a mould into which the biscuit porcelain is then poured to form the work itself.

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In creating the mould, the artisans’ talent is expressed through their ability to imagine variations in the thickness of the porcelain that will create the sought-after nuances.

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Patented by Paul Bourgoin in Tremblay in 1841, Email Ombrant is based on the same basic principle. But in this instance, the artisan fashions the motif in relief before coating it with a slightly tinted translucent enamel.

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By accumulating in the most sunken areas, the material becomes denser and darker, while the most highly raised zones are barely covered and thus remain very light in colour. The technique calls for an entirely different approach from that of traditional relief engraving. The cavities and raised areas are fashioned exclusively according to the light they will catch or reflect, which is why an Email Ombrant engraving is revealed only once captured in enamel.

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Email Ombrant involves perfect interaction between the engraver and the enameller in order to master the complex set of nuances and create the aura of mystery surrounding each work. Together, they analyse the initial design, its degree of transparency and the personality of the piece so as to determine halos, zones of light and shade.

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Created on a white gold base, the dial of the Arceau Tigre goes even further. According to the final desired degree of transparency, the engraver has even reproduced the very shape of the individual hairs composing the coat of the tiger so as to maintain the appearance of the initial sketch. The noble beast’s head thus springs to life by the way in which the light penetrates to create depth effects. Email Ombrant plays with optical illusions to open up a whole new creative territory by unleashing an incredible range of finely graded shades.

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The asymmetrical Arceau case is a Hermès watch signature, featuring a stirrup-inspired upper attachment evokes a horseshoe. Its generous lines are crafted from white gold in the Hermès workshops and its transparent back reveals the inner workings of the watch, while the strap highlights the leather working skills of the Maison.

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Issued in a 12-piece limited edition, the Arceau Tigre is powered by the in-house mechanical self-winding H1837 movement driving the hours and minutes hands. The calibre baseplate is adorned with snailing and circular graining, while the oscillating weight and balance-cock are enhanced by the distinctive Hermès ‘sprinkling of Hs’ pattern.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

 

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MOVEMENT
Type:  Mechanical self-winding, made in
Switzerland. Manufacture Hermès
H1837 movement
Diameter:  26 mm (11 ½’’’)
Thickness  3.7 mm
Power reserve:  50 hours
Frequency:  28,800 vibrations per hour / 4 Hz
Jewelling:  28 jewels
Decoration  
Circular-grained and snailed baseplate,
bridges and oscillating weight satin-brushed and adorned with a ‘sprinkling of Hs’, Hermès Paris engraving 
Functions 
Hours, minutes.
CASE
Round, 41 mm in diameter
Material: White gold
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case-back
Water resistance:  3 bar
DIAL
Tiger in Email Ombrant
(Gold plate coated with translucentblack enamel revealing the motif only after firing)
BUCKLE
17 mm white gold pin buckle 
LEATHER
Matt havana alligator strap and cord-strap

Limited Edition: 12-piece

Price: 90,000 Swiss francs

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INTERNATIONAL HERMÈS PRESS OFFICE
Ina Delcourt - 13-15, rue de la Ville-l’Évêque,
75008 Paris - Tel.: + 33 (0)1 40 17 47 89. Fax: + 33 (0)1 48 10 17 88
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MIDO – MULTIFORT Caliber 80

MIDO – MULTIFORT Caliber 80

A timepiece with a bold design 

for motorsports enthusiasts

Just like the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Multifort collection is synonymous with bold modernity. The latest addition to a collection that epitomises Mido’s expertise, the Multifort Caliber 80 will delight all those who enjoy a rush of adrenaline behind the wheel. Its anthracite dial is protected by a stainless steel case and is decorated with vertical Geneva stripes. Several touches of red – on the seconds hand and minute circle – highlight the watch’s fiery temperament and evoke the dashboard counters on a racing car. Fitted with a steel bracelet, this three-hand model houses a latest-generation movement: the Caliber 80, which gives it up to 80 hours of power reserve. Formidably accurate and uncompromisingly robust, the Multifort Caliber 80 is characterised by its distinguished design and will be at home on the wrists of all motorsports enthusiasts.

Launched in 1934, just two years after the completion of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Multifort collection shares some remarkable characteristics with the famous structure: a perfect balance between function and aesthetics. A truth that has stood the test of time, as Mido celebrated the 80th anniversary of Multifort production in 2014, making this emblematic collection one of the longest-produced series in the history of Swiss watchmaking. 

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The Multifort Caliber 80 is sporty at heart and is a timepiece designed for automotive performance. Featuring a robust case in satin-finished and polished stainless steel, it is impervious to knocks, jolts or high-speed spin-outs. The timepiece is fitted with the Caliber 80, an automatic movement at the cutting edge of watchmaking technology which, in addition to its formidable accuracy, endows the watch with 80 hours of power reserve – two reasons that are sure to delight all those who enjoy a rush of adrenaline behind the wheel. The anthracite dial adorning the Multifort Caliber 80 is decorated with vertical Geneva stripes and is protected by a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

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Meanwhile, its 42 mm diameter case is encircled by a black aluminium ring and the date is indicated in an aperture at 4.30. The indexes and hour and minute hands feature white Super-LumiNova® for enhanced legibility at night. Several touches of red – on the seconds hand and minute circle – highlight its fiery temperament and evoke the dashboard counters on a racing car.

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A sport-chic model with a bold design, the Multifort Caliber 80 is fitted with a transparent case back that enables the wearer to admire its finely decorated automatic movement and its oscillating weight adorned with Geneva stripes and the Mido logo. Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bars (100 m/330 ft), it comes with a stainless steel bracelet fitted with a folding clasp.

Three other versions of the Multifort Caliber 80 are also available.

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TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Model: MULTIFORT Caliber 80 42mm

Ref: M025.407.11.061.00
 
Movement   
Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (ETA C07.611 base) ,
11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 4.74 mm, 25 jewels, 21,600 A/H,
NIVACHOC shock-absorber, NIVAFLEX NM mainspring,
ELINCHRON II balance-spring.
Finely decorated chronometer movement with blued screws,
decorated oscillating weight with Geneva stripes and engraved Mido logo,
Functions HMSD+Day.
Adjusted on 5 different positions for a high accuracy.
Up to 80 hours of power reserve.
Functions  
HMSD. Adjusted on 3 different positions for high accuracy.
Up to 80 hours of power reserve.
Case   
Satin-finished and polished 316L stainless steel, black aluminium ring,  Ø42 mm,
3 pieces, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, screwed crown and case back,
transparent case back revealing the finely decorated and elaborate movement, engraved serial number,
water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bars (100 m/330 ft).
Dial   
Anthracite, vertical Geneva stripes,
white Super-LumiNova®, date at 4.30.
Hands   
Satin-finished and polished skeleton hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova® for easy readability at night, varnished red seconds hand. 
Bracelet   
Bracelet and folding clasp in satin-finished and polished 316L stainless steel.

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Press Release - 2016 
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press.mido.ch 
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www.Mido.ch

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay BRONZE

TUDOR – HERITAGE Black Bay BRONZE NEW

The Heritage Black Bay family welcomes the new Heritage Black Bay Bronze model, a 43 mm divers' watch inspired by the brand's history and fitted with a mechanical movement developed, manufactured and assembled by TUDOR.

The characteristic elements of the new Heritage Black Bay Bronze model's personality have been drawn from TUDOR’s history. It inherits the general lines, as well as the dial and domed crystal, from the very first TUDOR diving watches. It features the particularly prominent winding crown from the famous 7924 reference of 1958, known as Big Crown.

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It borrows the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, from the watches delivered in large quantities to the French National Navy in the 1970s. The drilled holes on the side of the lugs and their particularly pronounced chamfering can be added to the list of notable historic design elements adopted in this new model.

AN ALUMINIUM BRONZE ALLOY CASE

The characteristic element of the Heritage Black Bay Bronze is an imposing bronze case, 43 mm in diameter, which is an aesthetic reference to the use of bronze in historic ships and other diving equipment. The choice of this metal, a high performance aluminium bronze alloy, guarantees the development of a subtle and unique patina to match its user's habits. In addition to a highly functional appearance in line with the world to which it pays tribute, the Heritage Black Bay Bronze has entirely brushed finishes that guarantee a homogeneous development of the patina.

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A combination of chocolate­ brown dial and bezel – a first for TUDOR – with golden and beige accents, completes the model's look. The visual effect is that of a patinated object that could have battled the waves on its owner's wrist for many years, and seems to have been fashioned by him and his lifestyle.

THE TUDOR MT5601
MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT

The Tudor MT5601 Manufacture Movement was developed specifically to equip the Heritage Black Bay Bronze model. Slightly larger in diameter and displaying hours, minutes and seconds func­tions, it bears the reference MT5601, in which “MT” stands for “Mouvement TUDOR”.

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In 2015, TUDOR announced the first mechanical movement in its history to have been developed, manufactured and assembled in­house. A high­ performance calibre of excellent precision and proven robustness, it offers a 70­hour power reserve.

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Beating to a frequency of 28,800 beats/hour or 4Hz, the movement is regulated by a variable inertia oscil­lator with silicon balance spring, held in place by a traversing bridge – a guarantee of its robustness. Furthermore, the movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

AN HISTORIC STRAP

TUDOR has identified the historic uses of its watches and reinterpreted them in its latest models. For example, the French Navy had TUDOR watches delivered without bracelets and then fitted them with their own straps, handmade or otherwise. One of them, found on a period watch, is made of elastic recovered from a French rescue parachute.

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It is from this ultra­functional relic, recognisable by its central yellow thread that the beige and brown woven jacquard strap fitted to the Heritage Black Bay Bronze descends. In line with the characteristics of the Heritage line, it is accompanied also by an aged brown leather strap whose angled cut accentuates a rustic effect.

THE TUDOR DIVERS' WATCH

The history of the TUDOR divers' watch dates back to 1954 and the launch of reference 7922. The first in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers' watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan, according to whom the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers' watch, those of an understated, functional and reliable tool.

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The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers' watch and each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the greatest military navies in the world. It is this relationship with these navies which evokes ideas of travel and adventure that the Heritage Black Bay Bronze celebrates.

THE HERITAGE LINE

A key characteristic of the TUDOR Heritage line is the unique creative process that began in 2010 with the presentation of the TUDOR Heritage Chrono model, a free interpretation of the brand's first chronograph dating from 1970. Since then, some of the most im­ portant references in the history of TUDOR have been reworked within the Heritage line. Far from simply being an identical re­release of a classic, the models in this line bring together the past, present and future, with the aesthetic codes that contribut­ ed to the reputation of historic models preserved and instilled into contemporary timepieces. The new Heritage Black Bay Bronze adopts this approach, offering a new reading of the history of the TUDOR divers' watch.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: Heritage 

Model: Black Bay BRONZE

Reference: 79250BM

Mouvement

Mechanical automatic TUDOR calibre, 

CALIBRE: MT5601, Manufacture TUDOR (COSC) Self­winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system PRECISION: Swiss Chronometer Officially Certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) FUNCTIONS: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands Stop­seconds function for precise time setting OSCILLATOR: Variable inertia balance, micro­adjustment by screw Non­magnetic silicon balance spring Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz) TOTAL DIAMETER: 33,8 mm THICKNESS: 6,5 mm JEWELS: 25 jewels POWER RESERVE: Approximately 70 hours CASE: Bronze case, bronze-­coloured PVD­-treated steel case back, 43 mm, satin finish BEZEL: Bronze unidirectional rotatable  bezel with disc in matt brown anodised aluminium WINDING CROWN: Bronze screw-­down winding crown adorned with an engraved TUDOR rose DIAL: Brown, domed CRYSTAL: Domed sapphire crystal WATERPROOFNESS: Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft) BRACELET: Aged leather strap with bronze buckle Additional fabric strap with bronze buckle included in the box SWISS PRICE (VAT incl.): CHF 3'800.—

Year: 2016
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GREUBEL FORSEY – ART PIECE 2 EDITION 1

GREUBEL FORSEY – ART PIECE 2 White Gold EDITION 1 NEW

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ART PIECE 2 EDITION 1

Unveiled during Baselworld 2016, this new Greubel Forsey creation, Art Piece 2 is a powerful tribute to the Double Tourbillon 30°, the first invention from Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, and forms a subtle combination of artistic research and technological innovation.

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A VIEW OF THE INFINITELY SMALL

Following on from this first creation Art Piece 1, the Art Piece 2 is dedicated to Greubel Forsey’s own universe, and particularly to the watchmaker’s history. Housed in the case, an optical instrument allows the viewer to see a nano-engraved sketch of the Double Tourbillon 30º mechanism, Greubel Forsey’s first invention. This forms a subtle mise en abyme effect of the object within itself, given that this emblematic mechanism itself operates at the heart of this new timepiece.

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This original artwork was engraved by a secret process on a sapphire tablet. The first impression, is above all a showcase for the artistry that characterises this timepiece, in which the indication of time becomes of secondary importance and resembles a sort of conjuring trick. It is in fact necessary to activate a pusher that controls a bistable shutter mechanism in order to obtain an indication of the hours and minutes.

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We rediscover here the spirit that was already at work in the Invention Pieces, through which Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey developed for the first time the idea that a timepiece, rather than being just a simple watch, could become the distillation of an idea, and above all a means of artistic expression.

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The Double Tourbillon 30º, with bi-stable display signed by Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, will be produced in a strictly limited edition of just a few pieces per year.

ART AND SCIENCE

The Art of Invention: this expression testifi es to a forward-looking philosophy that has been the driving orce for Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey for many years now, both in the fi eld of scientifi c research as applied to fi ne watchmaking, and in that of aesthetic innovation. The Art of Invention imbues all Greubel Forsey creations, but is seen at its most eff ective in the astonishing series of Art Pieces they initiated in 2009.

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Co-created with Willard Wigan, Art Piece 1 included a micro-sculpture by the British artist that could be viewed through a miniaturised “microscope”, these revolutionary optics, the design of which required several years of research and development.

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Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey subsequently created a timepiece as a tribute to the off -beat universe of the Franco-American artist Robert Filliou, particularly noteworthy for its engraved maxim «Bien fait, mal fait, pas fait» (Well done, badly done, not done).

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Year: 2016
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Press release
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For further information: 
Communication Department 
press@greubelforsey.com – +41 79 194 2884
Eplatures-Grise -16 P.O. Box 670 2301
La Chaux-de-Fonds- Switzerland
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CHRISTOPHE CLARET – X-TREM-1 Gold and Damascened Stee Limited Edition

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – X-TREM-1 Gold and Damascened Stee Limited Edition NEW

The X-TREM-1
Ultimate watchmaking by Christophe Claret

Four years after unveiling the X-TREM-1 timepiece, the watchmaker from Le Locle reveals two new versions in damascened steel, issued in 8-piece limited edition. X-TREM-1, the first of a generation of exceptional timepieces, represents a major technical and aesthetic accomplishment: a flying tourbillon inclined at a 30° angle, mounted on a three-dimensional curvex titanium mainplate, equipped with a retrograde hours and minutes display system that is radically different from existing watchmaking conventions. Two tiny hollowed steel spheres, isolated within sapphire tubes on the left and right sides of the caseband, magically move with no mechanical connection thanks to magnetic fields

Technics

The Extreme Complications Watches line certainly deserves its name. It expresses Christophe Claret’s
determination to continue pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, integrating certain
fields of research never previously applied in this domain. X-TREM-1 is a fine example of this
approach that involves using a system driven by magnetic fields display the hours and minutes.

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The challenge was bold and some might say a little crazy: How could someone possibly think about
introducing a magnetic field – the arch enemy of horological mechanisms – into the heart of a
watch? The Christophe Claret team has done just that by creating a system where two small steel
spheres – hollowed to make them lighter and encased within two sapphire tubes placed to the right
and left of the caseband – are controlled by precision magnetic fields generated by two miniature
magnets moved by cables. The cables are incredibly flexible, made from hundreds of Dyneema
nanofibers all contained within an ultra-high-strength polyethylene gel, capable of withstanding
tensile forces of up to a kilo. The entire thread is thinner than a human hair (4 hundredths of a mm in
diameter). The resistance of the thread has been tested in the Manufacture Claret on an accelerated-
wear simulator corresponding to six years of operation.

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The spheres have no mechanical connection with the movement, with each one floating inside the
two tubes and creating outstanding horological magic. This technology was developed with the
School of Business and Engineering Vaud (HEIG-VD) in Yverdon-les-Bains, and a team headed by
Professor Besson.

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The entire construction and finishing of this timepiece meets the extreme demands systematically
imposed by Christophe Claret. Ultra-light titanium was used for the three-dimensional curvex
mainplate and the bridges. The flying tourbillon is fitted with double ceramic bearings to enhance its
shock-resistance. It is inclined at a 30-degree angle in order to make it even more clearly visible to
the wearer. The hand-wound watch draws its energy from two barrels enabling the use of a
sophisticated display without disturbing the rate of the tourbillon, and thus the accuracy of the
watch. The first barrel is reserved for the tourbillon, the second for the hours and minutes.

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The pleasing aesthetic alliance between gold and damascened steel

Driven as ever by a determination to present avant-garde timepieces, white or 5N red gold and
damascened steel were the metals chosen to make the case of this new version of the X-TREM-1.

A keen student of history, Christophe Claret felt it would be an interesting exercise to craft the case
of the X-TREM-1 – the most innovative and contemporary model in his collection – from damascened
steel produced using ancestral methods. This material was first made in the Caucasus around 2500
BC, soon after the discovery of iron, and subsequently spread throughout Europe as well as to Asia.
Entirely forgotten during the Middle Ages, it was rediscovered by the Crusaders. Weapons equipped
with extremely sharp damascened blades were long considered the finest in the world. After a
further period of neglect, this type of steel reappeared under Napoleon and was used to make gun
barrels around the mid-19 th century. It has been consistently used in Asia, and Japanese samurai
warriors made their katana swords from this material combining the suppleness of the blade with an
extremely hard cutting edge. Its resistance in combat gave them a significant tactical advantage over
their enemies.

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Damascened steel is traditionally produced by layer-assembling two types of stainless steel. Several
successive forging and folding steps result in a piece of metal that may comprise several hundreds of
layers. This extremely technical high-end alloy boasts excellent properties: a homogenous structure,
pure material, as well as extreme resistance to corrosion and shocks. For this new X-TREME-1 model,
the grades of steel used are 316L and 304L. The difficulty lay in introducing gold or ceramic into
damascened steel for the time indication, and the second challenge involved actually machining the
case from the extremely resistant damascened steel.

The many details that make a difference and contribute to giving this model its strength include the
subtle color match between the case, the spheres, the hours and minutes numerals, the tourbillon
age and the Christophe Claret logo.

Each of the two versions is produced in an 8-piece limited edition.

Christophe Claret considers the creation of each object as a collective challenge that takes shape by
dint of passion and perseverance, along with a significant measure of emotions and dreams. He is
never happy just to redo something that has already been done. The brand is resolutely dedicated to
technological innovation and never hesitates to venture off the beaten track in its quest to offer
unprecedented ways of reading the time.

An interesting historical side note

In The Talisman, a romanticized account of the Crusades in Palestine, Sir Walter Scott tells the story of
an encounter between Richard the Lionheart and Sultan Saladin. The two adversaries boasted of the
respective qualities of their swords. To show the resistance of his heavy sword that he wielded with
two hands, Richard sliced through a steel bar. In response, Saladin drew his Damascus steel scimitar
across a silk cushion and “the cushion fell apart without even half sinking under the touch of the
Sultan’s blade. It seemed almost to separate itself.” The stunned Europeans were thinking it might be
a trick, when Saladin gave a further demonstration by splicing in two a supple silk veil that he held in
the air. Walter Scott describes the Saracen’s weapon as ideally sharp and maneuverable, “a curved
and narrow blade, which glittered not like the swords of the Franks, but was, on the contrary, of a
dull blue color, marked with ten millions of meandering lines. “

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Technical Specifications

CALIBRE FLY11:   
Dimensions:        26.6 x 46.4 x 11.94 mm
Number of parts:         419
Number of jewels:         64
Power reserve:         50+ hours
Barrels:  Dual barrels: one for the movement gear train, one for the time indications
The tourbillon movement and the time indication gear trains each have their own independent energy supply to optimize power distribution and duration.
Tourbillon:    
Escapement: Swiss lever type
Oscillation frequency of the balance: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Tourbillon rotates once every 60 seconds
Flying tourbillon inclined at 30° supported by a double ceramic bearing, with cone-shaped pinion transmission
Functions:        
-  Mystery hours and minutes displayed with indications provided
by hollowed steel spheres moving 23 mm inside two cylindrical
sapphire tubes. The metal spheres are driven by magnetic
carriages following a thread.
-  Seconds displayed on the tourbillon cage
-  Movement state-of-wind indication
-  Fast time adjustment is via an integrated pusher on the caseband
at 12 o’clock 
Mainplate:
Curvex with sides inclined at 30° angle
Mainplate and bridges in bead-blasted titanium
Open-worked ratchet and wheel
Distinctive features:
Use of precisely-shaped magnetic fields in a mechanical movement
No mechanical connection between the indications and the movement
Winding and time-setting via lift-out rotating “bows” on caseback
EXTERIOR:
Case:
Rectangular with curvex profile
Dimensions: 40.80 x 56.80 x 15 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM  / 30 m / 100 ft
Material:
Ref: MTR.FLY11.130-138 Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 272,000.-

• White gold and damascened steel with time indication in black ceramic
• Spheres:   Black chrome-treated stainless steel

Ref: MTR.FLY11.140-148 Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 268,000.-

• 5N red gold and damascened steel with time indication in 5N red gold or black ceramic
• Spheres:   4N pink gold stainless steel

Polished rose gold/bead-blasted black PVD-coated grade 5 titanium
Hour and minute displays:
    Hours and minutes are indicated by two 4mm-diameter hollowed spheres weighing 0.100 grams that move past sapphire scales marked with thin Super-LumiNova graduations beneath the sapphire
Strap:   
Anthracite hand-sewn alligator leather or rubber-touch leather fitted with an innovative two-screw fastening system that facilitates strap change and avoids damaging the case
Buckle:      Black chrome-treated stainless steel
Number of watches: 
Each version is issued in a limited edition of eight pieces

Limited Edition of 8 timepieces

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