Monday, May 13, 2019

BREITLING – SUPEROCEAN Heritage II Chronograph 44 Ocean Conservancy Edition


















BREITLINGSuperocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition

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Breitling and Its Surfers Squad Launch a Limited-Edition Superocean Heritage

Breitling launched its Superocean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition watch in Bali with the support of its high-profile Surfers Squad members Kelly Slater, Sally Fitzgibbons, and Stephanie Gilmore. Working with the conservation group Ocean Conservancy, Breitling organized a beach cleanup to celebrate the launch of the chrono­graph, which is limited to 1000 pieces.

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On May 10, 2019, Breitling introduced a limited-edition model to commemorate its important partnership with Ocean Conservancy. The launch, which was held in Bali in cooperation with Ocean Conservancy, was part of a beach cleanup initiative with 100 Breitling guests and hundreds of volunteers from Bali and the surrounding region. The cleanup effort resulted in hundreds of kilograms of trash and plastic being removed from the beach.

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On hand to support the cleanup were the members of Breitling’s Surfers Squad, Kelly Slater, from the US, and the two Australians Sally Fitzgibbons and Stephanie Gilmore, who contributed their efforts to their first shared mission as part of Breitling’s squad. Kelly Slater, arguably the most successful surfer of all time, said: “I always say – and I believe that I can speak on behalf of the entire Surfers Squad – that beaches are, in effect, our offices. What we have seen here and on beaches and in oceans around the world is shocking, and I would like to thank Breitling and Ocean Conservancy for their shared fight against plastic pollution. Everyone can contribute to a cleaner environment – for ourselves and for future generations.”

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Celebrating a Partnership

The Superocean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition watch celebrates not only the partnership between Breitling and Ocean Conservancy, but also their shared commitment to helping maintain a healthy ocean and clean beaches. Breitling is participating in Ocean Conservancy’s cleanup programs to protect the health of the ocean and maintain trash-free seas.

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Breitling CEO Georges Kern emphasized the importance of Breitling supporting Ocean Conservancy to raise global awareness of its missions and conservation initiatives. He said: “This cleanup initiative in Bali underscored the power of our partnership with Ocean Conservancy. With the launch of this first great watch, we want to add a meaningful and credible element to our partnership and its global projects. I would like to thank Ocean Conservancy, all the volunteers, and the members of the Breitling Surfers Squad for making this event such a resounding success.”

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Janis Searles Jones, CEO of Ocean Conservancy, shares Georges Kern’s enthusiasm for her foundation’s partnership with Breitling. She said: “We are all proud to be able to work with Breitling. The new Superocean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition watch is stunning, and we are thrilled that this partnership contributes to our important work to keep plastic and trash out of our oceans.”

 Unique Features

The Superocean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition is distinguished by a casebackengraved with the Ocean Conservancy logo and the limited edition “1 OF 1000”. The chronograph, which is powered by a Breitling Caliber 13 mechanical movement, features an ultra-hard scratch- and shock-resistant unidirectional rotating bezel with a luminescent central dot at 12 o’clock, a particularly useful feature for divers.

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This dot, as well as the minute and hour hands, are coated with Super-LumiNova® and emit a blue light instead of the standard green. This color variation complements the design of the watch, whose silver-colored dial is enhanced by a blue “Superocean” inscription. There are also blue accents and a blue central second hand as well as tone-on-tone subdials with blue or nickel-­plated accents.


Innovative, Environmentally Friendly Straps  

The 44-millimeter stainless-steel chronometer is presented with a pair of NATO straps made of ECONYL® yarn, an innovative material repurposed from nylon waste, one source of which is fishing nets from oceans around the world.

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The straps are extremely durable, and the ECONYL® yarn material can be recycled indefinitely. The watch is presented on a blue-striped satin NATO strap and is delivered with an additional plain blue satin NATO strap. The packaging is also made from 100% recycled material.

 Carrying on the SuperOcean Legacy

The original Breitling SuperOcean, which was first launched in 1957, was created to meet the needs of professional divers, but it quickly found favor among amateur divers and scuba enthusiasts, and attracted an audience of wearers who were drawn to its bold style as much as to its performance and extraordinary functionality.

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The Superocean Heritage Ocean Conservancy Limited Edition timepiece is part of one of watchmaking’s greatest legacies, but it is even more than that: it is a beautifully timed call to action, reminding each of us that we can all play an important role in efforts to maintain healthy oceans and clean beaches. A portion of the sales of the watch will be donated to Ocean Conservancy and its global fight against ocean pollution.

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Technical Specifications

Model : SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II Chronograph 44 Ocean Conservancy Edition

Reference: A133131A1G1W1

MOVEMENT
Caliber: Breitling Caliber 13
Diameter: 30 mm
Depth: 7.9 mm
Winder: self-winding, unilateral with ball bearing
Power reserve: approximately 48 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800 a/h or 4 hertz
Chronograph: 
Column-wheel, vertical clutch,
1/4th second, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Display: hour, minute, second, date
Certification: COSC-certified
CASE 
Material: stainless steel
Diameter: 44 mm
Height: 15.65 mm
Water resistance: up to 20 bar (200 meters)
Glass: sapphire, convex, double anti-reflective
Caseback: screwed stainless steel
Crown: screw-locked, two gaskets
Bezel: unidirectional, ratcheted
DIAL/HANDS
Silver
Super-LumiNova luminescent hour and minute hands and a blue sweep-second hand
STRAP
  • Blue-striped satin NATO ECONYL Ocean Conservancy strap (Ref. 117W)
  • Additional plain blue satin NATO ECONYL Ocean Conservancy strap (Ref. 115W)
EDITION 
Limited Edition of 1000 pieces


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Press Release - 2019
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ROMY HEBDEN
Head of Public Relations

BREITLING SA
Schlachthausstrasse 2
2540 Grenchen
Switzerland
Telephone: +41 32 654 54 54
Mobile: +41 79 731 90 28
E-mail: romy.hebden@breitling.com
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www.facebook.com - Breitling
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www.Breitling.com

Friday, May 10, 2019

F.P.Journe – Tourbillon Souverain Vertical 20th Anniversary


F.P.JourneSOUVERAINE Tourbillon Souverain Vertical 20th Anniversary

A New Tourbillon Souverain to Celebrate 
the 20 th Anniversary of the Tourbillon Souverain

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The innovative and revolutionary horological creator François-Paul Journe has inspired a generation of contemporary watchmakers with the originality of his creations, his quest for precision, his timeless and immediately recognisable style, and his respect for horological ethics and traditions.

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Fascinated by the tourbillon since his youth, François-Paul Journe began to make his first watch when he was 20 - entirely by hand. It was a tourbillon pocket watch. In 1991, he created his first tourbillon wristwatch, selling the very small number of examples to a handful of knowledgeable collectors. In 1999, he launched the first Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité in wristwatch form. It was sold by subscription and was much sought-after by collectors who rival with each other to get on the short list of 20 examples.

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To celebrate the 20 th anniversary of this emblematic wristwatch, F.P.Journe has developed a tourbillon whose cage is vertical, rather than the traditional horizontal cage. “I designed this vertical tourbillon so that the tourbillon’s functions remain constant whether the watch lies flat or is placed on its side, and the amplitude is subsequently the same, whether with a deployant clasp lying on the side or with an ardillon buckle lying flat”.

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This vertical tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité and deadbeat second makes one revolution every 30 seconds. This is faster than the usual time of one minute, making the technical prowess even more visually astonishing. Surrounding the cage, a cone-shaped mirror-polished ring concentrates light, reflecting the tourbillon cage.  A second reflector was created on the movement side to provide light around the tourbillon cage. The 4N rose Gold bridges that form the dial are decorated with “Clous de Paris” guilloche with, for the first time, an enamel hour dial at 3 o’clock.

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The Tourbillon Vertical also features an 80-hour power reserve at 12 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock; the remontoir d’égalité is placed at 7 o’clock. The 42 mm case is available in platinum or in 18k 6N Gold.
The constant-force device

“From ancient times, humankind has constantly attempted to measure time by dividing it into equal fractions and inventing the notion of isochronism! Only with the arrival of the first mechanical clocks did specialists begin to seek a means of equalising the force reaching the es-capement. The balance-spring did not yet exist and the so-called “foliot” balance had an irregular beat due to irregular transmission of force because of the imperfections of the gearing. At the time, clocks were equipped with just one hand, which completed a revolution once every 12 hours, since their degree of imprecision did not permit the measurement of minutes. After the invention of the mainspring, which would en-able the construction of table-clocks, 15 th century watchmaker Jost Bürgi had the idea of adding an extra gear representing an inde-pendent system wound in short spurts by the mainspring. The escapement thus ensured a more constant flow and allowed several months of autonomy: this was the first remontoire or constant-force device!

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Later, 17 th century Dutch watchmaker Christiaan Huygens invented the balance-spring and the pendulum. These innovations would give both clocks and watches an unprecedented degree of precision timekeeping: the minute hand became widespread and the constant-force device fell into oblivion for around a century. With the arrival of the 18 th century, known as the Age of Enlightenment, the high requirements relating to astronomical observations and calculations of longitude for maritime navigation called for ever higher levels of precision. As new technical solutions were found, the seconds hand became a common feature on watches of the period. In England, Thomas Mudge invented a con-stant-force device for the H.3 marine chronometer, while famous French watchmaker Robert Robin - Watchmaker to the King - also invented one for his precision regulators. Paradoxically, it was in the 19 th century that the constant-force device became widely used in the construction of clocks intended for buildings - not to remedy any flaws in the springs (since all these clocks ran by driving-weights), but to isolate the time mechanism from the outside hands. This was because the latter were exposed to strong winds and might disturb the mechanism.

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Nonetheless, making a constant-force device was a complex and tedious task, causing it to be almost entirely abandoned in the 20 th century, apart from a few rare exceptions: English watchmaker Georges Daniels used it in a tourbillon pocket-watch; his contemporary Anthony Randall built it into a table-clock based on the principle of John Harrison’s H.4; and I myself have incorporated it into three tourbillon pocket-watches, a so-called “sympathique” clock and more recently for the very first time in wristwatch form with the first model in the F.P.Journe - Invenit et Fecit - collection, the Tourbillon Souverain.

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What is fascinating in the principle of the constant-force device is that each watchmaker who has set out to build one has his own personal interpretation: only the basic idea remains the same.”

 The dead-beat second - the art of making time stand still…

Towards the late 17 th century, as clocks were becoming increasingly precise, watchmakers added a hand that enabled them to measure seconds. These “clocks”, which became “pendulum clocks” thanks to the invention of the pendulum balance by the Dutch watchmaker Huy-gens, were almost naturally equipped with a 1 metre-long balance with a period of 1 second. The dial was marked out into 60 subdivisions so that the hand could jump from one second to the next.

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When the first watches indicating seconds were made, some 18 th century watchmakers wanted to achieve the same visual effect as on clocks. To do so, they invented systems extending the period of the balances, the best-known being the “crown-wheel escapement with pendulum” or the huge balance by Mr. Pouzait. Nonetheless, these systems were rapidly abandoned, since they were detrimental to precision.
 
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Thus, without an additional system, the hand started to beat out the half-second, the most widespread frequency of the time. The extreme ease with which time could be read thank to a seconds-beating hand, which remained motionless and only moved when the second changed, gave 19 th century watchmakers some new ideas.

Three systems known as “deadbeat seconds” came into use:

The first consisted of a small additional gear train activated by a spring connected to the mainspring. Each second, the hand was released by the watch escapement. This so-called “independent deadbeat seconds” offered the advantage of not affecting the precision of the watch and could be disconnected at will by the user.

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The second comprised an additional gear-train running from the escape-wheel to an additional seconds wheel equipped with 60 teeth held by a spring. This extremely simple system was extremely prejudicial to precision.

In the third, a so-called “single-beat escapement” waited for the balance to complete two oscillations in order for the escape-wheel to move forward every second. These escapements were extremely popular in watches produced in China, since according to Chinese philosophy, this corresponded to making time stand still. Time was no longer in control, since it was mastered by the wearer…

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Today, the Tourbillon Souverain is equipped with a “natural deadbeat seconds” device. The latter is mounted on one of the wheels of the con-stant-force device and cannot in any way affect the precision of the watch.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Collection: SOUVERAINE

Model: Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

Movement_
Calibre 1519
Manual winding / 29 turns of crown
18 K rose Gold
Dimensions of the movement_
Overall diameter : 34.60 mm
Cased-up diameter : 34.20 mm
Overhall height : 10.86 mm
Height of winding stem : 3.66 mm
Diameter of stem thread : S1.20 mm
Balance_
4 inertia weights
Flat Anachron balance spring with Philips overcoil
Pinned stud
Free-sprung
Spring pinned to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency : 21,600 V/H (3Hz)
Inertia : 11.00 mg/cm 2
Angle of lift : 52°
Amplitude : 0h dial up : > 260°
24h vertical : > 260° 
Number of parts_
Movement without dial : 230
Cased on leather strap : 260
Jewels : 32

Main Characteristics_
30 seconds Vertical Tourbillon with constant force and dead second.
Time adjustment by crown in position 2.
Escapement_

15 tooth escape wheel
90° Anchor fork
Indications_
  • Hours and minutes at 3h00
  • Small second at 6h00
  • Power reserve at 12h00
  • Vertical Tourbillon at 9h00
Power reserve_ 80 ± 2 hours
Dial_
Movement in 18 K 4N rose Gold with hour dial in enamel on white Gold.
Finishing_
High quality.
Guilloche Clous de Paris on bridges.
Circular Geneva Waves on base plate.
Screw heads polished and bevelled.
Pegs with polished rounded ends.
Case_
Platinum PT 950 or 18K 6N Gold
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.60 mm
Strap
Black alligator with 18K red Gold or Platinum clasp

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Press release - 2019
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09
Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail: bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com