DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige

DeWitt – Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige Limited Edition NEW

DeWitt unveils its latest technical innovation, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch, a limited edition of 99 pieces, entirely conceived and assembled at the DeWitt Manufacture by its own master watchmakers.

The new Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige houses the calibre DW 8015, developed from the DW 8014 movement that was first presented in 2010. This automatic Tourbillon introduces a patented and extremely ingenious Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor.

 
The A.S.W. device distributes a constant flow of energy to the main gear-train thanks to the sequenced winding of the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

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The peripheral oscillating rotor is attached to a ring with a sinusoidal profile on its inner edge. This particular shape will, in turn, activate the patented A.S.W system which enables the movement to always operate in an ideal functioning range, between 92 and 96% of the main-spring torque. The escapement is therefore guaranteed to always receive a constant and stable flow of energy thanks to this sequenced winding.

Indeed, two little arms, rocking up and down thanks to the rotation of the sinusoidal ring, ensure the winding of the barrel until it reaches 96% of the movement’s full winding. At that moment, a lever disengages the pawl from winding the barrel and forces it to continue its movement in the air, without hooking on to the wheel.

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The movement then runs on its accumulated reserves of energy, until it reaches 92% of the power reserve, and the pawl then hooks back on to resume winding the barrel. Such a technical prowess makes it possible to obtain an ideal functioning range through the use of a single, manual-type barrel. Moreover, it avoids all the running defects observed when slip-springs are used on conventional automatic calibres.

The method of displaying the dead-beat seconds hand in the centre of the dial makes for easier reading of the time. In direct contact with the Tourbillon cage, the ticking dead-beat seconds hand marks a pause for each second counted, which beautifully outlines the precision level achieved by the oscillating balance.

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Built out of some 334 components, the calibre DW 8015 is the perfect illustration of the inventive audacity of DeWitt’s master watchmakers. It combines the horological classicism of the tourbillon with the technological innovation of the A.S.W. (Automatic Sequential Winding) device. Moreover, the heart of the balance beats to the rhythm of a Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve. Developed from seven different elements, the alloy used is unbreakable, self-compensating, non-oxidizing and anti-magnetic. The perfect homogeneity of the hairspring and its incredibly precise flat rolling of 0.0001 mm, or 0.1 of a thousandth of a millimetre, give it its extremely high precision, thus guaranteeing the high performance of the mechanism.

The construction of the movement and of the dial take their inspiration from the world of architecture, using solid geometrical forms inspired by industrial metallic structures.
Thanks to an open-worked mainplate, the carriage of the Tourbillon is thus suspended in the air, producing an effect of transparency and of plunging into the very heart of the movement. The gear-train is unveiled through a dial featuring a fitted rhodium-plated matt chocolate-coloured grid. This robust, masculine aesthetic is reinforced by a series of screws. The power reserve is of 72 hours and is indicated at 9 o’clock by a hand that covers a 180 degree segment.
Its 46 mm case in 18-carat rose gold, adorned with the famous DeWitt imperial columns, matches the applique “W” signature in 18-carat rose gold at 12 o’clock, the hands and the gear-train of the movement.

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On the back of the case the two re-designed rear bridges mark out a strong contrast with their black PVD-treated surfaces. Like all great DeWitt complications, the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige watch bears the signature of the watchmaker who assembled the timepiece, this time directly inscribed on the movement’s rear bridge.

Last but not least, the new DW 8015 movement fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms established by the DeWitt Manufacture: Circular Côtes de Genève, satin-brushed surfaces, circular graining, polishing and bevelling.


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 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Prestige 

 

Ref.  T8.TP.001

Calibre
Reference DW8015
Movement
Mechanical movement with Tourbillon and patented
Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device, driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor
Tourbillon carriage suspended in the left
Dead-beat second is directly connected to the Tourbillon carriage
Signature of the watchmaker on the back bridge of the movement
Diameter: 37 mm
Power reserve: 72 hours
Vibrations: 18,000 A/h
Balance: Variable-inertia (Glucydur) balance
Spiral: DeWitt Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewels: 36 jewels
Number of components: 334
Functions
Tourbillon, hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds, power reserve
Case
Round case with DeWitt imperial columns on the sides
Material: 18-carat rose gold
Diameter: 46 mm
Total thickness: 12.10 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Distance between lugs: 23 mm
Dial
Chocolate-brown dial with rhodium-plated railings
Open-work on the Tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock and
on the power reserve at 9 o’clock
Railroad indicating the minutes
18-carat rose gold applique with the “W” logo at 12 o’clock
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of double- edged swords
Water-resistance: 30 metres
Wristband
Bracelet: Semi-matt brown alligator leather strap
Buckle: 18-carat rose gold triple blade folding clasp, polished, “W” signature

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ROMAIN GAUTHIER – Logical one Secret Ruby & Diamonds

ROMAIN GAUTHIER – Logical one SECRET Ruby & Diamonds NEW

LOGICAL ONE SECRET by ROMAIN GAUTHIER
The Ultimate Synthesis of Fine Art and Haute Horlogerie

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Logical one Secret features an unparalleled fusion of superlative expressions of fine art and award-winning haute horlogerie.

With its cover closed, hours, minutes and seconds are embraced in a glittering ocean of diamonds cascading right down to the lugs. An incredible 181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, totally nearly 7 carats, make for an ever-changing panorama of constantly glittering and sparkling reflections.

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A gentle squeeze on the pusher discreetly set into the caseband at 4 o'clock lifts the cover, revealing the intricate complexity of Logical one's award-winning − Best Men’s Complications Watch at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève − multi-patented constant force movement.

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The fully integrated cover sensually follows the form of the sapphire crystal underneath to create a canvas for artists of many mediums, e.g. gem setting, guilloche, miniature painting, enameling, engraving to 'paint'.

The craftsmanship required for invisible diamond setting is even more demanding than most in that it requires not one but two skilled artists: gem setter and diamond cutter.

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To be invisibly set, each and every diamond has to be carefully grooved, with each cut running the very real risk of breaking the stone. However, while invisibly set diamonds are very difficult to accomplish, the effect is spectacular as, without visible support, the gems look larger and light can reflect and refract throughout unimpeded in an explosion of brilliance.

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And besides the sheer transcendental aesthetical magnificence of a cover and lugs blanketed in 100s of stunning diamonds, they also provide a practical advantage in creating an extremely scratch resistant case.

Logical One features the quadruple-patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system with ruby chain links, ergonomic push button winding system, dial-side visible balance, mainspring barrel with sapphire inserts, plus a 60-hour power reserve indicator. 

 

Constant force

 

The vast majority of machines run on constant force: Cars and planes don’t start running slower as fuel runs low and machines receive how much electricity is produced.

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                                                          Both lines on the graph above represent a 60-hour power reserve
Yet the power that runs and regulates the vast majority of high precision mechanical timepieces varies greatly according to the state of wind of the mainspring.

Constant force is one of the holy grails of horology and with Logical One, Romain Gauthier has reinvented the chain-and-fusee − one of the oldest and most traditional methods of supplying constant force to a watch/clock movement − making it both more reliable, more effective . . . and more constant.

‘Coming from an engineering background, it appeared strange to have a high precision machine forced to run at varying power levels. So I started with the premise that it would be better to have constant energy.’  Romain Gauthier

Traditional chain and fusee

 

A fusee (‘fusée’ is French for cone) is a cone-shaped pulley wound with a cord or chain that is attached to the mainspring barrel.

Fusees have been used since 15th century to improve timekeeping by compensating for the diminishing torque/power of the mainspring as it ran down. 

  Fusee (the cone-shaped pulley on right) with chain

The first fusees used fine cord; however, as technology enabled the manufacture of ever-smaller chains, these replaced cords because chains transmit power more efficiently. But the traditional chain and fusee has two inherent problems:

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     1. The multiple layers of chain (often eight turns) on the fusee mean that the individual links have to be small, which means that they are relatively weak.

     2. The chain is often transmitting force between the fusee and mainspring barrel at an angle, which is both inefficient and adds stress.

 

Replacing the fusee with a snail cam

 

Romain Gauthier solved both problems by replacing the fusee with a slowly rotating snail cam, which is situated at 10 o’clock to the left of the hour/minutes dial.

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As the snail cam and mainspring barrel are on the same level, the force is always transmitted in a straight line and, as only one short line of chain is needed, the links can be bigger and stronger.

Ruby chain (patent pending)

To further improve efficiency, Romain Gauthier has taken full advantage of the larger chain links by making the links in low-friction hard-wearing synthetic rubies.

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And there is yet another innovation in the construction of the chain itself.

Romain Gauthier has replaced the traditional method of joining chain links, by placing a fine sheet of paper between the links and connecting plates, riveting them together and burning the paper away to create a fine (though imprecise) tolerance, with a snap clip system that offers high-precision, simplicity, reliability and consistency.

Winding with ergonomic pusher

Winding Logical One is a pleasure thanks to Romain Gauthier’s innovative push button winding system, with the pusher set neatly into the left caseband.

While the push-to-wind system is a pleasure to use, its advantages are not only ergonomic and aesthetic, but based on sound engineering principles.

A traditional crown is relative small with a fine (relatively fragile) stem that has to transmit the force 90° between the crown to the mainspring barrel. The pusher to wind Logical One transmits force to the barrel on the same plane.

Mainspring barrel with sapphire lining

As the mainspring unwinds in a traditional brass barrel, the metal of the spring scratches the metal, even when freshly greased. Over time, grease clots, scratches get rougher, the barrel sticks to the spring and does not rotate smoothly.

Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates.  Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.

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Sapphire plates

To eliminate this potential source of uneven friction, Romain Gauthier has placed mainspring of Logical One between synthetic sapphire plates.  Sapphire has the ideal properties of having a low coefficient of friction with steel − why watch movements have ruby bearings – and is highly scratch resistant – why it is used for watch crystals.

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A world of details

• Bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms for maximum rigidity
• Special power-process hand frosted bridges
• High efficiency gear teeth profile (patent pending)
• Polished screw heads with distinctive S-slot for more length/less slip
• Balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights
• Triangular pallet lever (Romain Gauthier invention) for improved rigidity.

Movement & finishing
The movement for Logical One was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

Highly polished sharp internal bevelled angles in the movement plates and bridges are the hallmark of superlative hand finishing because, to date, machines are not capable of milling and polishing sharp internal bevels.  With Logical One, Romain Gauthier has gone a step further still in creating double-angle bevels with sharp internal angles, which give the effect of border. 

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This distinctive eye-catching hand finish, created by using a two parallel bevels, has a similar effect to that of a frame around a beautiful painting, in that the frame highlights the artwork within.

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Romain Gauthier profile

Romain Gauthier was born in 1975 in Le Sentier, in the picturesque Vallée de Joux, at the heart of fine Swiss watchmaking. It was there that he developed a passion for traditional haute horlogerie blended with clean, contemporary design and innovative micro-engineering.  After studying precision-mechanics, Romain gained a diploma as a constructor of precision machinery. In 1997, he started his first job as machine programmer/operator and over the following years, Romain managed and grew the department into one of the best - equipped and most efficient production facilities in Europe.

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Determined to create his own watch brand, Romain completed an MBA in 2002. His final thesis – passed with distinction – was the business plan for Montres Romain Gauthier. He then began work on the timepieces themselves. "I knew that a good movement was the basis of everything I planned to build, so I started with that."

In 2005, after three years of working in secret, Romain launched his brand in Baselworld 2007 with the Prestige HM, featuring his own in-house manufacture movement.

The Prestige HMS followed in 2010, Logical one in 2013 and Logical one Secret in 2014.

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Technical Specifications

Special features
Gem setting:  181 invisibly set baguette diamonds, 6.9 carats total
Hours, minutes, small seconds, 60-hours power reserve,
Push-button winding and innovative chain-and-fusee style constant force system.
Limited Edition.

Case and strap
Diamonds: red gold cover invisibly set with 149 baguette diamonds IF to VVS/G+, 6.0 carats;
lugs invisibly set with 32 baguette diamonds quality IF to VVS/G+, 0.9 carats
Case materials: red gold
Movement plates and bridges: titanium, stainless steel, brass
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m /3atm / 90ft
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coat front and display back
Winding by push button at 9 o’clock
Time-setting crown with sapphire cabochon at 2 o’clock
Cover open by push button at 4 o'clock
Strap and buckle: alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with red gold pin buckle

Movement
In-house manufacture movement calibre
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve:  circa 60-hours
Number of jewels: 36 in movement, 34 for chain
Number of components: 394
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Highest level haute horlogerie finishing,
including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks; hand bevelled and polished bridges and plates.
Four patents pending

* Specifications may change according to the artwork and case materials  

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