Thursday, September 29, 2016

ETERNA – SUPER KONTIKI Chrono – Lady KonTiki DIVER

















ETERNASUPER KONTIKI Chrono – Lady KonTiki DIVER Automatic


DIVING IN BONAIRE
ETERNA ADVENTURES INTO MAGICAL WATES

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ACCOMPLISHED DIVER AND WATCH EXPERT, JASON HEATON, TAKES ETERNA UNDERWATER FOR A REAL-LIFE TESTING EXPERIENCE.

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Eterna tests all of its diving watches for water re-sistance, durability, functionality and more, but nothing quite beats strapping a watch onto a wet-suit and diving to the bottom of the ocean to really understand how well it performs. It is for this reason that Eterna enlisted the help of experienced diver and watch expert, Jason Heaton, for a real life test of its Eterna SuperKonTiki Chronograph and its Eterna Lady KonTiki Diver. Heaton chose Bonaire in the Ne-therlands Antilles for this extensive test that would take him on over 18 dives over a period of six days.

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Bonaire is a fascinating place, a small arid island off the coast of Venezuela, it is best know for its age-old salt production, but more recently it has become a mecca for both advanced and recreational scuba divers.

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A shallow reef rings the island, which is accessible from shore in most places. Years of steadfast marine conservation efforts have resulted in a very healthy underwater ecosystem with abundant soft and hard corals, as well as the countless creatures that inhi-bit them, from barracuda and tarpon, to rays, turtles, octopus and colourful reef fish.

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Heaton wore the Eterna SuperKonTiki Chronograph, while the Eterna Lady Kontiki Diver was tested by his diving partner, Marìa Clara Aboleda, a Colombian dive instructor who lives and works in Bonaire. The duo started their assessment in relatively shallow waters under Bonaire’s giant loading pier, where ships dock to pick up their cargo of the island’s salt. They had to wait until the dock was empty before being able to dive, but once the coast was clear, they found it is tee-ming with fish of all kinds thanks to the coral that grows on the huge vertical support stanchions of the pier.

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“The Super Kon-Tiki is one of the great names in dive watches so it was a pleasure to be able to spend a week reviewing and photographing the latest of its lineage in its intended environment. The Super KonTiki Chronograph represents a big step forward for ETERNA and a worthy bearer of its legendary name”.
Jason Heaton

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Their next dive was to be very different as they vi-sited the “Hilma Hooker”, a shipwreck that sank in 1984 under rather mysterious circumstances. They were to dive here on four separate occasions, explo-ring the 80-metre long Dutch freighter that is lying on its starboard side. The wreck is situated between two coral reefs at a depth of 30 metres and is conside-red one of the best diving sites in the Caribbean. Hea-ton and Aboleda were able to explore both the inside and the outside of the ship, enabling them to examine the watches’ accuracy and performance at such a pro-found depth.

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They also tested the watches at night as Heaton ex-plains: “On a night dive in Bonaire, I held an underwa-ter torch to the dial of the Super KonTiki for 30 seconds before descending and it glowed brightly for the enti-rety of a 45-minute dive in black water. Huge tarpon (silver scaled two-metre game fish) hunted by the light beams of our underwater torches, sharp-tailed eels came out of hiding and spectacular basket stars unfur-led their tentacles to hunt.”

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Underwater, I used the bezel for timing intermediate activities. In Bonaire, where diving is largely done from shore and is self-guided, navigation is most easily done using timed swims. Zero the bezel, swim one di-rection on the reef until half a tank is empty, note the elapsed time, zero the bezel again and return the way you came for roughly the same amount of time.

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Heaton was impressed with both Eterna’s diving ti-mepieces, “I wore the Super KonTiki Chronograph, either the blue or black, on all dives, and Marìa Clara Aboleda wore the Eterna Lady KonTiki Diver. The watches performed very well in all conditions, proving legible and accurate, with secure straps and highly functional timing bezels.”

At first glance the striking face reveals its kinship with the famous family of KonTiki watches. On the one hand, the prominent Roman numerals at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock as well as the hour marker are generously designed. On the other hand, and in particular, lies the distinctive cha-racteristic of all KonTiki models – the typical triangular index at the 12 o’clock position. The Lady KonTiki Diver displays hours, minutes, seconds and the date in a win-dow at the 4 o’clock position - that’s all a lady needs in the water or on dry land.

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A design inspired by gentle waves, the brilliant white ru-bber strap is effortless and light to wear. While sophisti-cated, the model’s cool stainless steel linked watch strap emphasises the sporty look. Like the spray on the stormy sea or the surf on a deserted sandy beach, the shimme-ring white face reminds modern globetrotters of unfor-gettable hours spent by the sea.

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With its elegance and bold femininity, the Lady KonTiki Diver with the steel strap presents a more discreet two-tone design. The warm gold tone is also evident in the design of the white face, the setting crown as well as the bezel, which radiates the brilliant blue of the depths of the ocean. The Lady KonTiki Diver has a chic, timeless and exquisite look with its elegant rose gold casing, which provides an exciting contrast to the dark black rubber strap, face and bezel. Fine diamonds indicate the hours between the golden numerals and make the Lady KonTiki Diver all the more striking. Inspired by the bril-liant blue hues of the water, the Eterna logo on the win-ding button serves as a constant reminder that the Lady KonTiki Diver is still a functional diving watch in spite of all its elegant features.
 
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 KONTIKI
IN MEMORY OF AN ADVENTUROUS EXPEDITION

The watches in the KonTiki line are a reminder of thecourage and resolution of archaeologist and ethnologist Thor Heyerdahl. Back in 1947, the 32-year-old Norwegianand five other scientists set out from the Peruviancoast into the Pacific Ocean on a simple raft made ofbalsa wood named after Kon-Tiki, an Incan sun god.

Heyerdahl had embarked on his derring-do expeditionto prove that it would have been technically possible forthe pre-Columbian Indians of South America to reach Polynesia with the help of the Humboldt Current andthe Passat wind. On their wrists the researchers worespecially made, extremely tough and reliable watchesfrom Eterna’s workshops. The crew put their trust inthese indispensable navigation aids whenever theyhad to carry out manoeuvres or make decisionsupon which depended not only the success of theirmission but also the survival of the men themselves. After 101 days and nights on the high seas, with almost 8000 kilometres behind them, Thor Heyerdahl and hiscrew finally reached the Raroia atoll in Polynesia.

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“Borders? I have never seen one. But I have heard they exist in the minds of some people.” 
Thor Heyerdahl

Their watches likewise survived the journey and shownno sign of damage from salt water, the humidity orthe fluctuating temperatures. The technical findings andexpertise taken from the creation of the timepieces forthis successful expedition subsequently flowed into thefurther development of Eterna’s sports watches.

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Technical specifications

Model: SUPER KONTIKI – Chronograph Manufacture45 MM

Ref  7770.41.89.1718 Blue - Milanese bracelet

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Ref  7770.41.89.1395 Blue - Blue rubber strap

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Ref  7770.41.49.1718 Black - Milanese bracelet

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Ref  7770.41.49.1382 Black - Black rubber strap

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MOVEMENT
Calibre Maison Eterna 3916A,
power reserve 60h
FUNCTIONS Hour, minute, second, date, chronograph, flyback
CASE
Polished and brushed stainless steel,
  • Black rotating bezel, sapphire crystal opening
  • Blue rotating bezel, sapphire crystal opening
DIMENSIONS
45.0 mm/50.90 mm/ 16.05 mm
DIAL
  • Eterna, Blue sun-brushed
  • Black, matte
BRACELET & CLASP
Milanese bracelet, folding clasp
Black/white rubber with wave, pin buckle

PRICE
 Milanese bracelet            CHF 4 600 / € 4 650 / $ 4 700
 Blue/Black rubber strap CHF 4 800 / € 4 850 / $ 4 900

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Technical specifications

Model: Lady KONTIKI – Automatic DIVER 38 MM

Ref  1280.41.66.1380 White - White rubber strap

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Ref  1280.64.49.1381 Black bezel with black ceramic ring - Black rubber strap

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Ref  1280.41.66.1733 White - Milanese bracelet

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Ref  1280.66.69.1734 White bezel with blue ceramic ring - Milanese bracelet

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MOVEMENT
Sellita SW200-1, power reserve 38h
FUNCTIONS  Hour, minute, second, date
CASE
  • Polished and brushed stainless steel, rotating bezel with white/black ceramic ring
  • Polished and brushed stainless steel, rotating bezel with white ceramic ring
  • Polished and brushed stainless steel and PVD 5N, rotating bezel with blue ceramic ring
DIMENSIONS
38.00 mm/12.00 mm
DIAL
  • Off white, laquered endowed with 7 diamonds
  • Black, laquered endowed with 7 diamonds
BRACELET & CLASP
Milanese bracelet, folding clasp
Black/white rubber with wave, pin buckle

PRICE
 Milanese bracelet           CHF 1 890/ € 1 900/ $ 1 900
(CHF 1 790 /€ 1 800 /$ 1 800)
 White /Black rubber strap CHF 1 790/ € 1 800/ $ 1 800
(CHF 1 690 /€ 1 700 /$ 1 700)

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Eterna SA
Schützengasse 46 
• CH-2540 Grenchen
• Tel. +41 (0)32 654 72 52
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Wednesday, September 28, 2016

MB&F – Horological Machine N°8 ‘Can-Am’















MB&FHorological Machine HM8Can-Am’ Titanium and Gold

Horological Machine N°8 Can-Am
The essence of MB&F. The spirit of Can-Am

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Over the last decade, two indelible forms have often marked MB&F’s Horological Machines: the distinctive angular form and optical prism displays of the revisited 1970s Amida watch, which first manifested in HM5 and then HMX; and the now signature “battle-axe” winding rotor, which took centre stage on top of HM3, MB&F's most popular model to date.

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Horological Machine N°8 (HM8) takes those two idiosyncratic features and infuses them with high-octane Can-Am race car-inspired design – generating an exquisitely sculptured, high-speed wrist-borne fantasy.

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Gentlemen, start your engines. Feel the THUNDER!

HM8 rises from the turbo-charged ashes of the Can-Am, a discontinued "anything goes" car racing series that would have celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2016.

The Canadian-American Challenge Cup, Can-Am for short, was a sports car racing series running from 1966 to 1987. Bruce McLaren developed his very first car for the Can-Am series; McLaren, Lola, Chaparral, BRM, Shadow and Porsche all ran manufacture teams. Class restrictions in the Can-Am were minimal and allowed for unlimited engine sizes, turbocharging, supercharging, and basically unrestricted aerodynamics. This all led to the development of pioneering technology in many fields. And extremely powerful engines.

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HM8 Can-Am features a curvaceous yet angular case, with dual optical prisms vertically displaying bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, while the distinctive battle-axe winding rotor is visible on top. But the real star of HM8 is its Can-Am inspired polished "roll bars" majestically sweeping from the front of the Machine down to the beguiling tapered back. Incongruously for a fully mechanical racing machine, the visual effect is electric.

MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser describes Horological Machine N°8:"I feel that this is one of the coolest pieces I've ever created."

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Those roll bars are milled from solid blocks of grade 5 titanium and then meticulously hand-polished to gleam like tubular mirrors.

HM8
's Engine sits in full view under a nearly invisible sapphire crystal engine cover. The open centre of the blued-gold battle-axe rotor enables appreciation of the circular wave finish on the movement, while the hour and minute indication discs are visible in the corners.

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The generous use of sapphire crystal allows unfettered visual access to the movement while its transparency backlights the time displays, making them more legible by day. Light also charges the Super-LumiNova numerals on the hour and minute discs for maximum legibility by night. HM8’s form amplifies its function rather than simply following it.

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 Can-Am launches in two versions: 
18K white gold/titanium and 18K red gold/titanium

HM8 Can-Am in detail

Inspiration

When he was young, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser dreamt of becoming a car designer, but that wasn't an option and he ended up designing watches instead. Or did he? It wouldn't take much to scale HM8 up to car size, drop a 1,000+ horsepower motor under the sapphire crystal hood and put a set of slick racing tyres under the chassis.

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While visually it is those polished roll bars linking HM8 to the Can-Am supercars, it's the rebellious spirit of working outside restrictive rules that really provided the inspiration for HM8.

Case, roll bars, and crystals

At first glance it may appear that the sapphire crystal covering the HM8 Engine is circular and positioned above the battle-axe rotor, but it's not. The complete top of the case is one piece of sapphire crystal with sections of the crystal metallised to create a bluish border. That crystal, combined with the polished roll bars on each side, the oil sumps underneath, and the time displays created by optical prisms highlight HM8’s unrestricted horological creativity.

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The roll bars are in grade 5 titanium, which has the desired qualities of being light in weight and high in strength. But that strength comes with a twist: titanium is not very malleable and cannot be bent easily into the desired long curve, which means that each roll bar has to be milled from a solid block of titanium Ti-6Al-4V. This is a blend of pure titanium with 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium as well as trace amounts of iron and oxygen. The Ti-6Al-4V alloy is significantly stronger than commercially pure titanium and boasts an excellent combination of lightness, strength, and resistance to corrosion.

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Turning HM8 over reveals another automotive tip of the hat: like most car engines which have an “oil sump” located underneath, HM8 has dual oil sumps under its own Engine.

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Engine

HM8 Can-Am is powered by an in-house developed bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute indication module, on a Girard-Perregaux base movement. The movement is inverted to put the winding rotor on top and modified to drive the prism indicator module. The finishing of the movement is first class, which it has to be as it is completely open to view from the top. The power reserve is 42 hours.

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Indications and reflective prisms

The bi-directional jumping hour and trailing minute displays on HM8 are materialised by overlapping discs (one for the hours, one for the minutes), completely covered in Super-LumiNova. The effect of large numerals is created by masking all of the lume except for the numbers.

The discs rotate horizontally on top of the movement; they are visible in the corners of the transparent Engine cover. Yet the time indications are displayed vertically in a ‘dashboard’ at the front of the case. To achieve this, MB&F worked with a high-precision optical glass supplier to develop reflective sapphire crystal prisms that reflect light from the discs 90°. The prisms also magnify the indications by 20% to maximise legibility.

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HM8 has separate sapphire crystal prisms for the hour and minute displays, which are wedge-shaped with precisely calculated angles to ensure that light is reflected (and reversed) from the horizontal indications to the vertical rather than refracted (bent). A convex lens at the front provides the magnification.

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Sapphire crystal is much more difficult to work to optical precision than glass, and it took considerable development and meticulous care in production to create crystals that reflected and magnified light without the slightest distortion. Because the time is reflected, the numbers are printed on the discs as mirror images so that they display correctly on the ‘dial’.

The vertical, forward-facing display makes HM8 Can-Am an excellent driver’s watch, as there is no need to lift your wrist from the steering wheel to read the display.



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The Can-Am

In the 1960s, Formula One car racing was mainly European and very regimented, with only small modifications permitted within tight rules designed to slow cars down. The engines were only developed up to 600-horsepower. A few North American racers balked at all the restrictions and decided to create their own racing series, the Canadian-American Challenge Cup (which became more popularly known as the Can-Am). The series launched many of the greatest names in car racing, including Lola and McLaren. The Can-Am basically had no rules except to go fast!


The Canadian-American Challenge Cup was a Group 7 SCCA/CASC sports car racing series running from 1966 to 1987, with two races in Canada and four in the USA each season. Because the class permitted virtually “anything goes” in terms of engine size, power and aerodynamics, the Can-Am was a hotbed of technical innovation. Wings, race turbocharging, ground-effect aerodynamics, and materials like titanium were all honed in the Can-Am. As long as a car had two seats, bodywork around the wheels, and met basic safety rules, it was likely to qualify. At its peak, Can-Am cars had the most advanced racing technology in the world, and with 1,000 horsepower compared to Formula One's 500-600 horsepower at the time, Can-Am cars lapped some tracks faster than F1 cars.

And those stunning chrome roll bars ensured the driver's safety if all of that power were to suddenly turn upside down.

While lack of restrictions in Can-Am provided its main attraction, the constant race to develop more power, better handling, and improved aerodynamics was extremely expensive. When you can do anything to a race car to make go faster, it's expensive to do it all – but if you don't, the other team might. In 1972 Porsche developed a 917 with a flat-12 motor producing up to an incredible 1,580 horsepower. Porsche called it the Turbopanzer and, weighing in at just 816 kilograms, it was capable of over 380 km/h (240 mph) on the straights. Unsurprisingly, the Turbopanzer was so dominant in 1973 that a minimum fuel consumption rule was introduced the following season.

But by the early 1970s the writing was on the wall. An oil crisis followed by a recession wasn't conducive to a very expensive racing series, and in 1987 the Can-Am ran its last race.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Horological Machine N°8 ‘Can-Am’

Ref  80.WTL.B Titanium and 18k White Gold 
Ref  80.RTL.B Titanium and 18k Red Gold

ENGINE (Movement)
Base movement: Stefano Macaluso, Raphael Ackermann / Girard Perregaux 
Three-dimensional engine conceived and developed by MB&F from a Girard-Perregaux base calibre
Automatic battle-axe winding rotor in 22k gold
Power reserve: 42 hours
Balance frequency: 28,800bph / 4Hz
Number of components: 247
Number of jewels: 30
FUNCTIONS / INDICATIONS
Bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes displayed by two optical prisms that both reflect and magnify 
CASE
Material:
Launch editions in 18k Gold and Titanium
  • Titanium and 18k Red Gold
  • Titanium and 18k White Gold
Dimensions: 49 mm x 51.5 mm x 19 mm
Number of components: 60 components
Water resistance: 30 m / 90' / 3 atm
Water resistance of engine container: 30m / 90’ / 3atm
SAPPHIRE CRYSTALS
All sapphire crystals – front, back, top, bottom – treated with anti-reflective coating on both faces
Strap & Buckle

Hand-stitched alligator strap in marine blue (white gold case) and
dark brown (red gold case) with folding buckle in matching case material


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