Wednesday, May 20, 2020

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph – Tempo















VACHERON CONSTANTINLes Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph – Tempo -  Unique piece 2020

  • A one-of-a-kind timepiece powered by a new Manufacture calibre with a total of 24 horological complications.
  •  A double-sided watch, literally reversible thanks to its ingenious strap attachment system.
  •  “La Musique du Temps®»: an array of one-of-a-kind timepieces produced in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers department as a tribute to the art of music.
  • Abbey Road Studios, a partner of the Maison, has recorded an original sound print delivered as a one-off certificate for each «La Musique du Temps®» timepiece.
Vacheron Constantin proudly introduces the most complicated wristwatches ever produced by the Maison. This one-of-a-kind double-sided timepiece displays the chronograph hours and measurements on the front, along with a perpetual calendar. 

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The back is dedicated to astronomical functions, including indications of solar time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset, day and night duration, as well as the age and phase of the moon. This watch featuring a tourbillon regulator is also equipped with a minute repeater. A total of 24 perfectly legible complications are orchestrated by the new in-house 1,163-part 2756 calibre

A timekeeping and calendar side

Chiming watches hold a special place within the world of horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanical devices have been given pride of place by Vacheron Constantin. In 2019, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department chose to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind models grouped under the theme “La Musique du Temps®».

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Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph – Tempo is the crowning embodiment of this approach. In addition to the minute repeater function, which involves a «musical» structure that must take into account the positioning of the gongs and their harmonious sound when struck, the front side also displays timekeeping and calendar indications in addition to the split-seconds chronograph. The perpetual calendar indications are provided by the two lower subdials: one for the day and date, the other for the month and leap year.

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The symmetrically placed upper subdials are dedicated to marking off time. The hours appear on the left-hand subdial with an inner 24-hour disc that can be used to display a second time zone; while the right-hand subdial shows the minutes on the outer disc and carries the chronograph

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30-minute counter on the inner disc. Given that the chronograph is doubtless one of the most complex horological complications to be integrated into a calibre, the watchmakers of the Maison wanted to express the true measure of its nobility by creating a split-seconds chronograph equipped with a column wheel. The split-seconds system with two central hands enables intermediate (split) times to be calculated by stopping one of the two hands which, once restarted, «catches up» with the first. With these initial functions, however, the 1,163-component 2756 calibre has revealed only half of its technical prowess.

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The timepiece must be turned over to reveal the full scope of this accomplishment. With its perfectly symmetrical case and thanks to the ingenious removable strap attachment system, Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph is perfectly reversible and can be worn on either side, according to the mood of the moment.

An astronomical and technical side

On the reverse watch face, the central hands, including the minutes hand with the sun symbol, indicate true solar time. Based on the apparent displacement of the Sun, the latter differs from civil time due to the inclination of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of the Earth’s orbit.

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Mean solar time – the civil time that punctuates our daily lives – and true solar time coincide only four times a year, with maximal variations ranging from -16 minutes and 23 seconds to +14 minutes and 22 seconds. The difference is what is known as the equation of time, which, on this timepiece, is of the “running” variety, given the simultaneous nature of the two readings of time on either side of the watch. This information is complemented by indications of sunrise and sunset times as well as the duration of day and night, respectively positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock.

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The lowest part of the dial features a display of the age and phase of the moon by means of a retrograde hand sweeping over a semi-circular subdial. Here too, watchmakers have not taken the easy path with this high-precision moon-phase display, which requires only one correction every 1,000 years. To ensure the visual harmony of this second dial, the tourbillon is majestically enthroned at 12 o’clock with its carriage shaped like a Maltese cross – the emblem of the Maison – topped by the central pointer-type power-reserve indicator.

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This timepieces with its multiple functions and displays represents an authentic watchmaking challenge. Firstly, on a technical level, with this calibre developed by the same team as that behind Reference 57260 and in which the smallest detail has been taken into consideration. Witness the split-seconds lifting-lever, designed to save energy for a timepiece that thus enjoys a remarkable power reserve of 65 hours and still lasting up to 40 hours even with the chronograph activated.

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Secondly, aesthetically speaking, in order to ensure perfect legibility of the two slate grey dials with sunray and guilloché finishes around the circumference. It was indeed the aesthetic options linked to the display that dictated the construction of the calibre within a multidisciplinary approach. The result is an exceptional watch whose generous 50-millimetre diameter and 21-millimetre thickness are softened by the curves of the pink gold case. The alligator leather strap sets the finishing touch to the aesthetic appeal of this watch, a truly worthy heir to the traditions of Haute Horlogerie.


Les Cabinotiers: one-of-a-kind creations

In the Vacheron Constantin universe, Les Cabinotiers represents a department in its own right dedicated to the personalisation of models and to unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called cabinotiers and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floors of Geneva’s buildings. In the hands of these learned artisans, open to the new ideas of the Enlightenment, exceptional timepieces were born, inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This expertise, which constitutes the great Geneva watchmaking tradition, has been flowing through Vacheron Constantin’s veins since 1755.


Vacheron Constantin and chiming watches

Chiming watches occupy a special place among horological complications. For more than two centuries, theses complex mechanisms have been highlighted by Vacheron Constantin. Today, Les Cabinotiers department has chosen to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind creations on the theme “La Musique du temps®”.

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Born from the need to tell the time in the dark in an age when people had to rely on candlelight, chiming watches have taken various forms: repeating on demand the hours, quarters or half-quarters, as well as the minutes depending on the versions; Grande and Petite Sonnerie (sounding the hours and quarters in passing, with or without repeating the hour on each quarter) ; and finally those with an alarm (programmable chime).

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While each of these complications has its own distinctive characteristics, they all combine an integrated and complex mechanism with the finely crafted nature of musical instruments in terms of their resonance, acoustics and harmonics. Featuring watch cases equipped with complex movements as their only means of musical expression, these creations represent a magnificent feat of miniaturisation.

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At Vacheron Constantin, the first mention of a chiming watch dates back to 1806: a gold repeater pocket watch registered by the founder’s grandson Jacques Barthélemi Vacheron, in the very first production register kept in the company’s archives. Ever since, sonnerie or repeater watches have been an integral part of the Manufacture’s proud heritage, steadily enriched over the decades.

A sound print certified by Abbey Road Studios

Sound and music have always played a role in the Maison’s partnerships, the latest of which is with Abbey Road Studios, a name closely associated with iconic artists such as The Beatles, Adele and Oasis. In collaboration with the studios, Vacheron Constantin launched its Fiftysix® collection, backed by the “One of not Many” campaign. The partnership also has a role to play for “La musique du Temps”, as Vacheron Constantin entrusts Abbey Road Studios with recording the unique sound of each model.

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Above and beyond extremely similar values, Abbey Road Studios and Vacheron Constantin work closely together on creative collaborations involving both content creation and sharing expertise. Entrusting the production of the sound prints of our models to an internationally recognised expert in the recording world is an integral part of our collaborative endeavours”, explains Laurent Perves, CMO Vacheron Constantin. For the first time, the repeater watches from “La Musique du Temps®” range have a unique sound print, recorded and certified by Abbey Road Studios. As Jeremy Huffelmann, Head of Partnerships at Abbey Road Studios, points out: “The opportunity to capture the sonic identity of these incredible timepieces is a privilege. These recordings perfectly encapsulate the shared values of craftsmanship, expertise and excellence that define our collaboration, whilst forever preserving the personality of these singular timepieces.

Summary

Chiming watches hold a special place within the world of horological complications. For more than two centuries, these complex mechanical devices have been given pride of place by Vacheron Constantin. In 2019, the Maison’s Les Cabinotiers department chose to pay tribute to them through one-of-a-kind models grouped under the theme “La Musique du Temps®». Les Cabinotiers split-seconds chronograph – Tempo is the crowning embodiment of this approach, with its 24 complications orchestrated by the new in-house 1,163-part 2756 calibre.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO





























This one-of-a-kind double-sided model displays the time and chronograph split-seconds measurements on the front, along with a perpetual calendar. The back is devoted to astronomical functions, including solar time, equation of time, sunrise and sunset times, duration of day and night, age and phases of the moon. This model featuring a tourbillon regulator is also equipped with a minute repeater. This timepiece with its multiple functions and displays represents an authentic horological challenge, both technically and aesthetically.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-Seconds Chronograph – Tempo


Reference  9740C/000R-B692 

Movement 
Calibre 2756
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin

Mechanical manual-winding
33.3 mm (14 ¾’’’) diameter, 16.35 mm thick
Movement power reserve: approximately 65 hours
2.5 Hz (18,800 vibrations/hour)
1,163 components
40 jewels

Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece

Indications
Front
  • Off-centre hours and minutes
  • Minute repeater (hours, quarters and minutes on demand)
  • 2nd time zone / 24H time zone
  • 30-minute counter chronograph
  • Split-second chronograph
  • Perpetual calendar (date, day, month and leap year)
Back
  • Regulator tourbillon
  • Retrograde phase and age of the moon
  • Running equation of time
  • Sunrise and sunset time
  • Day / Night length
  • Power reserve indication
Case
18K 5N pink gold
Diameter: 50 mm, 21 mm thick
Dial
Sunray slate opaline for the upper central part
Guilloché central ring
Sunray slate grey external ring
White painted indications
Strap
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp
18K 5N pink gold folding clasp and 18K 5N pink gold buckle
Polished half Maltese cross-shaped

Presentation box & accessory
Les Cabinotiers model


One-of-a-kind timepiece
Pièce unique” and “Les Cabinotiers” inscriptions engraved between the lugs of the timepiece



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#vacheronconstantin
#OneOfNotMany

#LesCabinotier 
#GrandComplication

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Press Release - 2020
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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www.Vacheron-Constantin.com

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

VOUTILAINEN – 28 Sport Titanium Edition


VOUTILAINENCurrent 28Sport Titanium Unique Edition

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The Voutilainen 28Sport wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the philosophy of Kari Voutilainen. Its elegant and strong mechanism is housed in a stylish and robust case.

The in-house movement of the Vingt-8 was designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled in its entirety in Voutilainen workshops. The design and philosophy of the movement combines respect for longevity and precision with classical watchmaking tradition.

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The movement has a very large balance wheel manufactured in-house, allowing perfect regulation of the watch to within strict tolerances.

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To equip such an exceptional timepiece, a very rare and unique balance-spring system has been used. The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil, while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.

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The escapement makes the movement very special; this is the first watch to have two escapement wheels in such a configuration. The escapement wheels give a direct impulse to the balance through the impulse roller/jewel. This escapement is extremely efficient and requires much less energy than traditional lever escapements, offering benefits in terms of longevity and stability in day-to-day use.

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The balance-wheel bridge is sublimely elegant, offering an unimpeded view of the escapement and balance. It also allows the enthusiast to admire the synchronized movements of the escapement wheels.

The watch is finished to the highest standards.

The surfaces of pinions and wheels are completely flat and highly polished to within exceptionally uniform tolerances. All finishing work on the main plate and bridges is by hand to achieve the highest possible levels of surface finish.

Screws and all steel parts are finished and polished by hand.

The elegant dial made from silver is fabricated in-house. It is engine turned by hand. The center part and small second are in onyx, hand finished and highly polished. Construction of the dial is called “sandwich” type. On the base of the dial there is superluminova and it appears around hour indices and around onyx which is in center.

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Hands are in white gold. They are open in middle and fulfilled with superluminova as well as the tip, allowing to read the hours during the night.

This model is made in limited series of 8 watches in titanium case.

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Technical Characteristics

Categories: Current Collection

Model: 28SPORT Titanium 39mm


Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Re-engineered caliber Vingt-8
Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops.
- In-house movement.
- 30mm x 8.45mm movement
- New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse.
- Main plate and bridges manufactured from German silver.
- Wheels manufactured from gold.
- 21 jewels
- Integrated retrograde power reserve indication.
- Power reserve: 65 h
- Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights
- frequency of 18.000 variations / hours
Balance diameter 13.60mm,
The exterior of the spring uses a typical Phillips overcoil,
while the internal curve uses the little known Grossmann curve.
Case
Titanium - Unique case designSize ø 39 mm
Thickness 13.40 mm
Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on both sides
Waterproofness 30 m 
Functions
Hours, minutes and seconds
Small seconds at 6 o'clock
Dial
Engine-turned dial
Made from silver with onyx centers, manufactured in house
Silver dial made in house
Hands  Hands made from white gold with superluminova
Strap
Hand sewn crocodile strap with titanium buckle

Additionals
All design, manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop.

Year 2020

Limited to 8 unique piece.


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Press Release - 2020
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Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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www.Voutilainen.ch