The new
Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 reprises these prestigious characteristic features, as well as the profound attachment to reliability and chronometric precision that are the fundamental qualities of the new watches from
Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD.
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Calibre FB-T.FC: a movement housing unprecedented mechanisms
The new
FERDINAND BERTHOUD Tourbillon Fusée - Chain chronometer is powered by an exclusive hand-wound movement entirely designed, developed and produced by
Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD.
Calibre FB-T.FC is distinguished by a striking pillar-type architecture typical of the marine chronometers created by the master-watchmaker in the
18th century. Equipped with a remarkable low-frequency (
3 Hz) tourbillon with central seconds, this exceptional movement also features a constant-force regulating device with suspended fusée - chain transmission, a differential-based winding system, as well as a highly specific power-reserve mechanism called a “suspended mobile cone”.
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The result of almost three years’ research and development, culminating in cutting-edge reliability tests,
Calibre FB-T.FC delivers exceptional precision and rating regularity duly certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (
COSC), along with
53 hours’ autonomy and optimal readability of its hours, minutes, seconds and power-reserve functions.
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Inspired by
Berthoud regulator-type clocks, the particularly
slim, long spokes of the gear wheels are decorated with meticulous care.
Patiently circular satin-finished, bevelled and countersunk, they
subtly reflect the light onto the pinions. Patents have been filed for
several of the unprecedented mechanisms composing this new calibre.
Window onto an exceptional horological accomplishment
The unique architecture of the
FB-T.FC calibre highlights a fascinating play on the symmetry between the barrel, the fusée and the tourbillon, visible through the generously open back of the octagonal case. Fitted on gear wheels with tapering spokes and supported by stylised pillars, the barrel, fusée and tourbillon appear to be suspended in mid-air, thereby creating an airy, light feel.
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The polished titanium pillars securing the bridges to the mainplate
generate a space that draws light to the heart of the movement and
reinforces the pure nature of this exceptional construction comprising
more than
1,120
components within a 35.50 mm diameter and a modest 8 mm thickness.
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The
entirely hand-decorated half-bridges are satin-finished and bevelled
with straight-grained flanks, while the jewels are set in finely
polished and chamfered chatons.
Innovative fusée - chain transmission
The characteristic fusée - chain systems of
18th century timepieces served to compensate for the variations in torque of the mainspring according to its degree of winding. The original fusée - chain mechanism of
Calibre FB-T.FC occupies an exceptionally small space at the heart of the movement thanks to its “suspended” construction by which it is secured exclusively to the mainplate.
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The barrel and the fusée are linked by a 28 cm-long chain composed of
474 steel links and more than 316 pins measuring barely 0.30 mm in diameter and all hand-assembled. When the mainspring is associated with a fusée (spindle-like element), the barrel drum turns in one direction when the spring winds down and in the opposite direction when it is wound up. The rotation of the drum causes the chain to coil around the fusée. To ensure the movement does not stop during winding, the fusée mechanism of
Calibre FB-T.FC is equipped with an unusual differential gear.
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The barrel itself is linked to the Maltese cross stopwork device that serves to limit the number of winding turns of the mainspring and to ensure pre-determined, constant-force transmission during the letting down process.
Fascinating power-reserve mechanism
The power-reserve device of
calibre FB-T.FC is also extremely specific and innovative, inspired by a mechanism developed by the famous British watchmaker
Georges Daniels – and a nod to the ties with England cultivated by
Ferdinand Berthoud.
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This mechanism directly linked to the barrel by a driving wheel, uses the winding and letting down motion of the mainspring to make a truncated cone move up and down along an arbor secured to the mainplate.
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A mobile arm tipped with a roller jewel serves as a feeler-spindle in
measuring the motion of the cone and transmitting the movement’s
power-reserve level to a dedicated hand.
A low-frequency 3 Hz tourbillon
Fitted with a tourbillon regulating organ featuring an innovative direct-drive seconds hand, the
FB-T.FC calibre is equipped with a variable-inertia balance oscillating at a low frequency of
3 Hz, while the tourbillon carriage performs one rotation per minute. The balance made of copper beryllium (
CuBe), a particularly resistant copper-based alloy, is equipped with an unbreakable, stainless and anti-magnetic self-compensating balance spring whose terminal curve is delicately shaped by hand – noblesse oblige. Two sets of inertia-blocks on the balance rim enable micrometric adjustment of its amplitude.
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The
67-part titanium tourbillon carriage is held in place by a bridge with a single arch and poised by means of two
18-carat
gold studs. Identical and coaxial with the wheel driving the tourbillon
carriage, the central seconds wheel does exactly what its name implies
by enabling a central display of the seconds. A patent request has also
been filed for this unusual construction.
An octagonal case with domed crystal and water-resistant portholes
The octagonal-shaped case of the
Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 features a specific architecture inspired by the marine chronometers developed by the Swiss master-watchmaker, and in particular their gimbal suspension system typical of ship’s chronometers. The movement is housed in a water-resistant container, while the case middle takes on an octagonal shape due to the addition of screwed-on gold elements endowing it with a powerfully contemporary appearance.
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These octagonal add-on sides open onto four lateral sapphire portholes providing a chance to admire the subtle intricacies of the movement. The 44 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with a glareproofed screw-down sapphire back.
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It provides a captivating view of the tourbillon and reveals the complex fusée - chain mechanism. This window onto the heart of the movement allows light to flood through the case, illuminating the mechanisms visible through the four water-resistant lateral portholes.
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The pleasingly round bezel is topped by a domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal ensuring optimal legibility of the dial indications. Secured by bolts whose design is directly inspired by those used by
Ferdinand Berthoud for its marine clocks, the inter-horn space is clothed with high-tech materials – grade 5 titanium for the white gold version and black ceramic for the rose gold version – accentuating the resolutely modern nature of this new watch.
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The screw-lock crown at 3 o’clock is elegantly set with a rose gold
medallion on the white gold case and a black ceramic version on the one
in rose gold, while its generous diameter and refined knurling ensure an
optimal grip enabling easy adjustments of the movement. With its
harmoniously proportioned and original case graced with extremely
sophisticated finishes, the new timepiece from
Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD displays a unique character distinguished by pure, sparing elegance.
The face of precision
Focusing
firmly on time read-off and the display of its precise measurement, the
dial of the
Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 is as understated in
its appearance as it is technically complex to produce. The off-set
hours and minutes tick by on a white-lacquered subdial at 12 o’clock.
Standing out against a black satin-brushed or ruthenium background
depending on the case material, the seconds scale appears on a matt
translucent sapphire surrounding the dial. In the centre, an opening
with carefully chamfered contours reveals the seconds wheel-and-pinion
and the driving wheel of the tourbillon carriage – each turning in the
opposite direction to the other.
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Meanwhile, the movement power reserve is indicated on a scale directly engraved on the mainplate and shown at the heart of a 9 o’clock counter.
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Its degree of autonomy is signalled by an arrow pointing to the words
“Haut” or “Bas” – the French terms for high and low written in the
native language of
Ferdinand Berthoud. Alongside the confirmation
of “Chronometer” certification appearing at the bottom of the dial, the
inscriptions “Val-de-Travers” and “Switzerland” underscore the
hand-crafted nature of this precious timepiece entirely developed in the
birthplace of the master-watchmaker.
The refinement of an authentic chronometer
Meticulous care has been lavished on the execution of the hands, inspired by the characteristic shapes of creations bearing the
Ferdinand Berthoud signature. Crafted in
18-carat gold, they adopt complex and original designs calling for particularly sophisticated production processes. The dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands are cut-out and facetted, while the extremely long and slim central sweep-seconds hand is made of bronze and fitted with a round counterweight typical of
Ferdinand Berthoud regulators. The power-reserve indicator features a curved triangular tip.
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Designed to match the shade of the dial, these pointers are all are delicately blued or gilded according to the version and guarantee perfect readability of the functions while enhancing the clarity of their precision.
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The understated lines and contemporary refinement of the
Ferdinand Berthoud
chronometer extend right the way through to the hand-sewn rolled-edge
alligator leather strap.
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This supple yet sturdy wristband composed of
one skin sewn with a linen thread is secured by an
18-carat
gold double-blade safety folding clasp fitted with a length-adjustment
device typical of the new timepieces from the House.
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Technical characteristics
Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1
18-carat white gold and titanium
Case:
Bimetallic in
18-carat white gold with titanium inter-horn space
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness 13 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Crown in
18-carat white gold with
18-carat rose gold medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glareproofed sapphire crystal
Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal
Movement:
Mechanical hand-wound
FB-T.FC
Total diameter 35.50 mm
Thickness 8 mm
Number of jewels 46
Frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve 53 hours
Suspended fusée - chain constant-force transmission regulation
Suspended mobile power-reserve cone – 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with central seconds
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve
Nickel silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
Chronometer-certified (
COSC)
Dial and hands:
Vertical satin-finish ruthenium dial with cut-out centre
18-carat blued gold hours, minutes and power-reserve hands
Blued bronze seconds hand
Functions and displays:
Display of the hours, minutes at 12 o’clock on a white lacquered dial
Power-reserve display in an openworked subdial at 9 o’clock
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap
18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable safety folding clasp
Ref FB 1.1 – in
18-carat white gold and titanium
50-piece
limited and numbered
edition
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Technical characteristics
Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1
18-carat rose gold and black ceramic
Case:
Bimetallic in
18-carat rose gold with black ceramic inter-horn space
Total diameter: 44 mm
Thickness 13 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Crown in
18-carat rose gold with black ceramic medallion
Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glareproofed sapphire crystal
Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal
Movement:
Mechanical hand-wound
FB-T.FC
Total diameter 35.50 mm
Thickness 8 mm
Number of jewels 46
Frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
Power reserve 53 hours
Suspended fusée - chain constant-force transmission regulation
Suspended mobile power-reserve cone – 3 Hz low-frequency tourbillon with central seconds
Balance-spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve
Nickel silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
Chronometer-certified (
COSC)
Dial and hands:
Vertical satin-finish black dial with cut-out centre
18-carat blued gold hours, minutes and power-reserve hands
Blued bronze seconds hand
Functions and displays:
Display of the hours, minutes at 12 o’clock on a white lacquered dial
Seconds display at 6 o’clock
Power-reserve display in an openworked subdial at 9 o’clock
Tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
Hand-sewn rolled-edge alligator leather strap
18-carat white gold double-blade length-adjustable safety folding clasp
Ref FB 1.2 – in
18-carat rose gold and black ceramic
50-piece
limited and numbered
edition
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1727-1807
Horologist-mechanic by appointment to the King
and the Navy
1727 Ferdinand
Berthoud is born on March 18 to a distinguished family of clockmakers at
Plancemont in the Val-de-Travers, now in Switzerland’s canton of Neuchâtel.
1745 At
the age of 18, Ferdinand Berthoud settles in Paris to study clockmaking.
1753 A
decree of King Louis XV’s council awards the 26-year-old Ferdinand Berthoud the
title of Master Clockmaker.
1755 Ferdinand
Berthoud writes a number of reference papers for the Encyclopédie méthodique edited by Diderot (1713-1784) and
Alembert (1717-1783).
1763 Publication
of a two-volume horological treatise, Essai
sur l’horlogerie…
1764 Ferdinand
Berthoud is elected to the Royal Society in London as an “associate overseas
member” thanks to his masterpieces and his publications about watchmaking
1768 The
marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8 were proved to be successful onboard the
corvette “L’Isis” during a 18-month journey from Rochefort to Santo Domingo.
The marine chronometer N°8 alloed to determine the real position on the map of
the boat and calculate the longitude within half a degree thanks to
astronomical observations.
1770 After
successful sea trials of the marine chronometers N° 6 and N° 8, Ferdinand
Berthoud is commissioned as
Horologist-mechanic to the King and the Navy, and receives a royal command
for 20 marine chronometers for the French admiralty’s numerous charting
expeditions and marine surveys of the late 18th century.
1802 Ferdinand
Berthoud publishes a major work: Histoire de la mesure du temps par les
horloges, a history of time measurement by clocks that demonstrates his
immense knowledge of horological mechanics.
1804 On July 17, Napoleon I makes Ferdinand
Berthoud a Knight of the Legion of
Honour as a member of the Institut de France.
1807 Ferdinand
Berthoud publishes his last work, Supplément
au Traité des montres à Longitudes…
On June 20, 1807, Ferdinand Berthoud dies at
the age of 80 in Groslay (France)
His
nephews, Pierre-Louis Berthoud (1754-1813) and Charles-Auguste Berthoud
(1798-1876) successfully carry on the work of their uncle to earn renown as
chronometer-makers.
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Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD SA
Rue des Moulins 20
Case postale
128
2114 Fleurier, Val-de-Travers (NE)
Switzerland
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