Monday, July 9, 2018

LOUIS MOINET – Ultravox Gold Edition


LOUIS MOINETULTRAVOX Hour-Strike Gold 46.5 mm Double Rotor 250th Anniversary Limited Edition


Ultravox Louis Moinet’s first ever Hour-Strike

The hour-strike complication is an extremely rare member of the strike mechanism family, and the layout used here is quite possibly unique. The mechanism has been revealed, enabling its complexity to be admired. The magic of watchmaking mechanics is embodied by the moving yokes and the engraved hammer that marks out the hours. Two hundred years ago, Louis Moinet’s clocks and pocket watches chimed the hours for leading figures of his day. Now, his name has been joined with that of Eric Coudray, a great present-day watchmaker, to create a new masterpiece in the same spirit.

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The hour-strike is a rare Fine Watchmaking complication, and rarer still when it is the product of a fully independent firm, based on an exclusive movement, and created ex nihilo – thus representing a markedly fresh approach.

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The advent of the Ultravox coincides with the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth in Bourges in 1768.

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Throughout his entire life, the inventor of the Compteur de Tierces chronograph, which dates from 1816, made a large number of striking clocks, many of which adorned the drawing rooms of the world’s greatest leaders, from Napoleon Bonaparte to Tsar Alexander I and presidents of the United States (among them Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe), as well as many others besides.

Asserting a style

Ultravox forges a link between a heritage and the future; between Louis Moinet himself and the Ateliers that are now restoring his renown. Unlike many brands, the Ateliers still have a very large number of clocks made by their namesake, Louis Moinet, in perfect working order. Some of them are at the Ateliers’ premises in Saint-Blaise, Neuchâtel, while others are still in or near the corridors of power they originally graced, for instance at the White House and the Hermitage Museum.

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Having this tangible heritage in our possession has enabled us to design an Hour Strike that draws inspiration from Louis Moinet whilst also being undisputedly rooted in the twenty-first century,” explains Jean-Marie Schaller.

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Louis Moinet was a scientist; a man of precision motivated by fine workmanship. With that in mind, in a world first we decided to lay bare all of the mechanics of this grande complication. It’s a natural extension of the watchmaking style that we originally implemented for Memoris, our chronograph watch which, for the first time, revealed all the workings of the chronograph on the dial side. Ultravox goes much further, unveiling its entire mechanism. It embodies the Louis Moinet style more than any other timepiece.

A watch bearing the “Eric Coudray & Co” name

Watchmaker Eric Coudray, winner of the Gaïa Prize – and, in Jean-Marie Schaller’s words, “a magician!” – is one of the greatest watch designers alive. The Ultravox bears the name of this Master and his outstanding team, without whom nothing could be achieved.

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The Latin name “Ultravox”, the ‘strong voice’, is a nod both to the sound of the strike mechanism and to the neoclassical influences on Louis Moinet, whose clocks portrayed figures such as Minerva, Julius Caesar, and Cicero. Only twenty or so pieces will be made a year; indeed, no more could possibly be made, so complex is the piece.

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The strike mechanism denotes each passing hour on the hour, marking out the appropriate number of chimes. A silencer mechanism also allows the wearer to disengage the chime, if they so wish.

A complication showcased altogether differently

To enhance the excellence of this creation, for the first time Louis Moinet has unveiled its entire mechanism on the wrist. A special plate had to be designed, including over 50 jewels, to engage the chime mechanism’s various components, whose arrangement is extremely complex.

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The central flirt triggers a system arming the hammer at twelve o’clock, and strikes out the hours on a gong arrayed around the movement. The function of the fly, meanwhile, is to channel power from the barrel, regulating the rhythm of the chime.

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The Ultravox plate finish in “Moinet blue” is designed to reflect the light and offset the block polished and chamfered screws above it, showcasing the acoustic mechanism. The rear reveals a system with darkened, parallel double rotors. The first of these serves to generate force for the hours and minutes mechanism, while the second is wholly given over to the chime.

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With a diameter of 46.5 mm, the Ultravox will be available this autumn, in a first limited edition of just 28 rose gold timepieces.

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Collection:  Limited Edition
Model: ULTRAVOX  

Unique Limited to only 28 pieces

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Press Release - 2018
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Friday, July 6, 2018

VACHERON CONSTANTIN – FIFTYSIX® Day-Date


VACHERON CONSTANTINFIFTYSIX® Day-Date Power-reserve Indicator 40mm - 2018

Vacheron Constantin presents its new FIFTYSIX® collection

  • Retro-contemporary style for an elegant masculine watch to be worn in any circumstance
  • Modern interpretation of the iconic reference 6073, launched in 1956 and inspired by the 
  • Maltese cross
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  • Design and positioning in tune with the current expectations of Fine Watchmaking connoisseurs
  • Self-winding movements, simple or equipped with horological complications
  • New pink gold openworked oscillating weight featuring the Maltese cross emblem

Offering the keys to modern elegance and relaxed refinement. Imagining a collection with a cosmopolitan style that is both contemporary and historically inspired. Such is the personality of the FIFTYSIX® collection unveiled at the SIHH 2018.

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Geneva’s oldest watch Manufacture still in operation, 263 years after its creation in 1755, Vacheron Constantin holds a special place in the heart of initiates and collectors. The Maison is heralding a new chapter in its history with its FIFTYSIX® collection.

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It represents an important new step as this original line, inspired by a historical Vacheron Constantin watch dating from 1956, instils a modern momentum capable of opening up the world of Fine Watchmaking to every enthusiasts.

Inspiration and creativity

FIFTYSIX®. A name and a date evoking an iconic model presented in 1956: the reference 6073. Its design expresses the particularly abundant creativity displayed by Vacheron Constantin during the 1950s. This timepiece is distinguished by its shape – and notably its lugs, each representing a branch of the Maltese cross which has become an emblem of the Manufacture.

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The originality of reference 6073, as indeed of all 1950s Vacheron Constantin models, also stems from the contrast between the classicism of its dial and the bold design of its case. A watch that already wove ties between respect for tradition and a taste for innovation.

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The golden age of round timepieces, the 1950s represented the pinnacle of aesthetic refinement and remain an incomparable territory begging to be explored.The lasting impact that reference 6073 was to have on Vacheron Constantin’s history also stemmed from its stature as one of the first watches from the Manufacture to be equipped with a self-winding movement.

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Calibre 1019/1 was distinguished by its precision and reliability, at a time when most other models were driven by manual-winding mechanisms.Lastly, this model has a special place within the Vacheron Constantin heritage: the case of the 6073 boasted a water-resistant construction (with a multi-sided caseback).

A strong identity

There is a definite sense of kinship – in spirit as well as in substance – between the 6073 model presented in 1956 and the FIFTYSIX® collection introduced in 2018. A number of 1950s characteristics are incorporated into this contemporary heir.

Maltese cross:

The most striking example of this filiation is undoubtedly the aesthetic nods to the Maltese cross, inspired by the shape of a component formerly found in mechanical movements. A small wheel connected to the barrel of the cover which made it possible to use the most constant section of the spring by regulating its degree of winding and unwinding, in order to enhance the precision of the watch.

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More than 260 years of perpetually renewed efforts entirely directed towards attaining the highest standards of quality make this emblem the very symbol of horological excellence.

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It is echoed by the design of the FIFTYSIX® watches, since the lugs of their cases are inspired by the branches of the Maltese cross. This exclusive shape is bound to exercise a particular attraction on devotees and discerning enthusiasts.

Box-type crystal:

Another bridge between the past and the present can be seen in the distinctive shape of the box-type crystal rising well above the bezel.

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Historically made from Plexiglas or mineral glass, it is now in sapphire, a far more scratch-resistant material, while preserving the retro-contemporary look of the FIFTYSIX® collection.

Self-winding movements:

Naturally, both in tribute to the self-winding movement of the 6073 and for the wearer’s convenience, all the versions of the FIFTYSIX® collection, including those with complications, are powered by a self-winding movement, with a new calibre for the three-hand variation.

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A transparent caseback provides a chance to admire the movement finishing – Côtes de Genève, circular graining and snailing – as well as the new oscillating weight designed by Vacheron Constantin for this collection. This polished and satin-brushed 22 carats openworked rotor, bearing a Maltese Cross applique and a frosted-snailed finish, represents a signature feature of all FIFTYSIX® models.

Gold and steel:

For the first time in its history, the Maison has decided to offer a classic collection both in gold and in steel, while treating the latter material with the same high aesthetic standards as the precious metal.

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As an example of this, see the use of white gold hands and appliques on the steel versions of the FIFTYSIX®.

Sector-type dial:

One of the collection’s distinguishing characteristics lies in the appearance of its sector-type dial. While the chapter ring, punctuated by alternating Arabic numerals and baton-type hour-markers, channels its 1950s inspiration, the presence on the surface of two subtle tones achieved by finishing effects lends an additional touch of elegance and sophistication. The play of light across the dial gives it depth and a stronger personality.

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It is by reinterpreting its own roots that the FIFTYSIX® collection achieves a distinctive style by adopting a crown recessed into the case, thereby setting it apart from its 1956 predecessor, which took a more classic approach to this specific detail.

A collection expressed through three models, 
each with its own variations:

The FIFTYSIX® collection presented at the SIHH 2018 comprises three 40 mm diameter models available in various steel or gold versions:
  • Date
  • Day of the week, date, power-reserve indicator
  • Complete calendar with precision moon phase
FIFTYSIX® day-date with power-reserve indicator

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The day-date FIFTYSIX® with its 40 mm-diameter case in steel or 18 carats 5N pink gold provides additional functions driven by its self-winding movement, Calibre 2475 SC/2.

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Equipped with a stop-seconds device, the latter powers the day of the week indication appearing at 9 o’clock, the date at 3 o’clock and the power-reserve display at 6 o’clock.

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The 22 carats gold openworked oscillating weight visible through the sapphire crystal caseback is fitted with a ceramic ball bearing rotation system requiring no lubrication and guaranteeing the movement’s longevity.In keeping with the characteristic face of this collection, this version features a monochrome dial with double opaline-sunburst effect, enhanced by the additional contrast of its two snailed counters.

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Gold Arabic numerals, hour-markers and hours & minutes hands punctuate the dial of this FIFTYSIX® model, teamed with an alligator leather strap secured by a polished half Maltese cross-shaped steel folding clasp or gold pin buckle, depending on the version.

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TECHNICAL DATA

Collection : FIFTYSIX® Day-date

Reference 4400E/000R-B436 - Pink Gold

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Reference 4400E/000A-B437 - Stainless stee
 

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Hallmark of Geneva

Movement
Calibre 2475 SC/2
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
Mechanical, self-winding
26.2 mm (11¼’’’) diameter, 5.7 mm thick
Approximately 40 hours of power reserve
4 Hz (28,800 vibrations/hour)
264 components
27 jewels
Indications  
Hours, minutes, central seconds
Day of the week and date
Power-reserve indicator
Case
  • 18K 5N pink gold
  • Stainless stee
40 mm diameter, 11.6 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistant tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 metres)
Dial
  • Silvered, opaline center, sunburst exterior, snailed counters
18K 5N pink gold Arabic numerals
18K 5N pink gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material
  • Grey, opaline center, sunburst exterior, snailed counters
18K white gold Arabic numerals
18K white gold hour-markers highlighted by a luminescent material
Strap
Brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell and tone-on-tone stitching, square scales.
  • Buckle 18K 5N pink gold buckle.
  • Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
Dark grey Mississippiensis alligator leather with calf inner shell and tone-on-tone stitching, square scales.
  • Clasp Stainless steel folding clasp
  • Polished half Maltese cross-shape

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Press Release - 2018
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Vacheron Constantin
Press Department
10, Chemin du Tourbillon
P.O. Box 95
CH-1228
Plan-les-Ouates/Geneva
Tel. +41 22 930 20 05
Fax +41 22 930 20 06
press@vacheron-constantin.com
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