Tuesday, June 13, 2017

VOUTILAINEN – Vingt-8 GMR Tritonet Gold Edition


VOUTILAINENVingt-8 GMR Tritonet White Gold EditionUnique Piece

A unique Voutilainen timepiece 
in the ”Métiers d’art” category

Presenting a watch « Triton and Mermaid » with an extraordinary double back boasting two exceptional craftsmanship engraving and enameling techniques, Kari Voutilainen participated in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève this year.

Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen proposes a timepiece with a 24-hour second time zone and retrograde power reserve indicator. The movement, designed and handcrafted, as well as the dial were produced in the master workshop. Crafted in German silver, the topflight mechanism comprises no less than 250 components and 28 jewels.

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It cleverly allows the crown to adjust the second time zone so that it advances by the hour rather than rotating freely, thus maintaining accuracy with regard to local time. While the sapphire crystal makes it possible to admire the traditional finishing of the movement with Côtes de Genève decoration and hand-chamfering, the dial also boasts refined elegance. The GMT embraces the small seconds at 6; while the retrograde power reserve indicator is positioned at 12 o’clock.

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Never before have I produced such a complicated piece”. For Swiss master engraver Eddy Jaquet, production of this unique watch will remain forever in the forefront of his memory. In addition to the various engravings on the pivoting white gold lid (several layers of successively cut and sculpted precious metals), the Voutilainen Vingt-8 GMR which he handled also boasts another, equally demanding, decorative technique: enameling.

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Specialist Inès Hamaguchi was responsible for the delicate enameling work that would create the aesthetic effect desired by Eddy Jaquet, a design with two silhouettes on both sides of the sea’s surface. While the traditional technique of champlevé enameling was called on to represent the sky and the sea foam, a unique, very complex method known as plique-à-jour was used to feature the sea itself in which a mermaid can be seen on both sides of the lid.

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Originating in the Byzantine Empire during the 4th century, plique-a-jour did not appear in Western Europe until the end of the 13th century before almost disappearing entirely due to the complexity of the technique. It was revived at the end of the 19th century but remains extremely rare up to this day; only a few experts are masters of the technique.

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This timepiece, thanks to the juxtaposition of the engraving and various enameling techniques, including the plique-à-jour as a decorative element, represents a benchmark in watchmaking.

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While the two artists maintain a veil of secrecy surrounding the creative process - “an experimental approach”, they claim -, Eddy Jaquet and Inès Hamaguchi admit that a series of discussions between their two workshops in the Neuchâtel canton were necessary before arriving at the final result. A painstaking and patient joint effort to produce an unparalleled effect, close to stained glass, of both movement and depth.

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Of the twelve Voutilainen Vingt-8 GMR pieces in the limited edition collection, only one watch will have an engraved and enameled lid, exceptional for the complexity of its manufacture.

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Technical Characteristics

Model: Voutilainen Vingt-8 GMR Tritonet

Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, Vingt-8 calibre
Designed, made and finished in the Voutilainen workshops, 28 jewels, 
18,000 vib/h, new escapement with two escape wheels and direct impulse,  
German silver. 250 parts, Geneva stripes decoration, hand chamfered bevels and movement is rhodium plated.
Hours, Minutes, GMT in 24 hour indication and power reserve indication
65-hour power reserve
Balance: Free sprung balance made from CuBe
( with Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve). .
Diameter of balance wheel is 13,50mm.
Jewels: 28
Movement size: ø 30.00 mm x 5.60 mm
Dial
Guilloché silver - Matte blue color
Engine turned by hand with applied gold Large Roman numerals.
Power reserve indicator at 12 o'clock
Hands: Gold and steel, handmade
Additionals
All manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop.
Additionals
18K white gold, 18-carat gold crown.
Case size: ø 39.00 mm  x 12.30 mm
Sapphire glass front and back, with anti-reflection treatment on front.
All design, manufacturing, construction,
fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop
Matching 18K white gold tang buckle and hand sewn crocodile strap.

Limited to 1 unique piece.

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Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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Voutilainen.ch

Saturday, June 10, 2017

H. MOSER & CIE. – Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz























H. MOSER & CIE.HENRY Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz White Gold Limited Edition


SWISS ALP WATCH Zzzz,
A MECHANICAL WATCH IN STANDBY MODE

A watch with a rectangular case, with rounded corners, featuring a glossy black dial. At first glance, it could be mistaken for a smartwatch on standby. But look a little closer, and it reveals itself to be a living watch, with a heart and soul: the Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz from H. Moser & Cie. 100% mechanical. 100% Swiss.

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In this watch, the now iconic model features neither indices nor logo on its dial, proving that true luxury is unmistakable, and immediately identifiable, even without obvious marketing.

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Looking like a smartwatch which is powered off or on standby, the Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz from H. Moser & Cie. cultivates this ambiguity in irreverent fashion. Behind its contemporary design lies a 100% mechanical watch.

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The black dial — stripped not just of any signature, but also of its indices — is strictly minimalist. On this model, there is no interface: the Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz is designed to display the time, something it does beautifully. Seemingly simple, it is anything but.

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At the heart of the Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz, the HMC 324 form movement beats with the rhythm of the balance wheel's rotations.

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In response to the cold electronics of connected watches, H. Moser & Cie. presents the soul of mechanical watchmaking. With a minimum power reserve of 4 days, fully rechargeable by hand, it couldn't be further from the world of the smartwatch.

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Alongside the model with a black dial, H. Moser & Cie. is releasing a variation at the opposite end of the scale, featuring the striking and radiant Funky Blue dial; an example of watchmaking yin and yang.

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The Swiss Alp Watch Zzzz is available in a limited edition of 20 pieces of each of the two references.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: HENRY SWISS ALP WATCH Zzzz

  • Reference 5324-0207, white gold model, Black dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces
  • Reference 5324-0208, white gold model, Funky Blue dial (sky-blue fumé), beige kudu leather strap, limited edition of 20 pieces
Case
Solid 18 carat white gold
Dimensions: 38.2 x 44.0 mm / height: 10.3 mm
Sapphire crystal
See-through sapphire crystal case-back
Crown adorned with an “M
Engraved with "1 of 20" 
Dials
Black or Funky Blue with sunburst pattern
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 324 Manufacture calibre
Dimensions: 32.0 mm x 36.0 mm, height: 4.8 mm  
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
27 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 4 days
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann Hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil
Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Movement and components hand-finished and decorated 
Functions
Hours and minutes
Power reserve indicator on movement side
Straps
Hand-stitched black alligator or beige kudu leather
18-carat solid white gold pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo


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CONTACT
Nathalie Cobos, T +41 76 319 03 09
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Press release - 2017
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H. MOSER & CIE.
MOSER SCHAFFHAUSEN AG
Rundbuckstrasse 10
CH-8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
Switzerland
TEL.          +41 52 674 0050
FAX          +41 52 674 0055
E-MAIL      info@h-moser.com
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