Sunday, February 16, 2014

Carl F. Bucherer – MANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition
















Carl F. BuchererMANERO ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition NEW

Because of its complexity and mechanical refinement, the perpetual calendar, which shows the date, day of the week, month, and moon phase without requiring correction, remains a technical challenge that only a handful of watchmakers have mastered. The mechanism knows the differing lengths of months and the timing of the next leap year, thereby successfully countering the quirks of the Gregorian calendar.

In the year 46 BC, the astronomer Sosigenes of Alexandria developed the basic principles for today’s calendar. He divided the year into twelve months, with seven months of 31 days, four months of 30 days, one month of 28 or 29 days, resulting in 365.25 days per year, and with one additional day every four years as a correction. Thanks to the great Roman Emperor Julius Caesar, use of this system became widespread throughout the entire world. However, this “Julian” calendar contained an error of 0.0078 days per year, a discrepancy which was corrected by Pope Gregory XIII in 1582. In the system which bears his name, a leap year is left out every 100 years except in round centuries which have a number of years divisible by 400. This Gregorian calendar is still used today, forming the foundation for the way we measure time.

Masterwork of craftsmanship
Anyone who wears a mechanical watch with a date display will be familiar with the problems caused by months of differing lengths, particularly in leap years. Because simple, standard calendar mechanisms always switch from the 30th to the 31st, the date has to be moved forward manually to the first after months with fewer days. A perpetual calendar mechanism, however, is able to correctly handle these transitions independently, even factoring in leap years. The complexity of this mechanism demands the ultimate in watchmaking craftsmanship, and is appropriately referred to as the “grand complication”. Manual correction will not be necessary until the year 2100, when – as in all years divisible by 100, but not by 400 – one leap year will be skipped.

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For all lovers of this traditional masterpiece of the watchmaker’s art, Carl F. Bucherer now presents a limited edition of the Manero ChronoPerpetual featuring a unique combination of chronograph and perpetual calendar. The Manero ChronoPerpetual is a true wonder of the art of watchmaking, with a perpetual calendar date display at 12 o’clock, day of the week at 6 o’clock, month and leap year at 9 o’clock, and moon phase at 3 o’clock – all of which do not require correction. The functional module specially developed for Carl F. Bucherer also features a precision chronograph with the popular flyback function. A tachymeter scale on the bezel completes the range of practical functionalities for which Carl F. Bucherer is famous. A movement from Vaucher Manufacture, which features a contemporary design in the distinctive style of the Lucerne watch brand, forms an exclusive basis.

Visual clarity, perfection of form

Despite this multiplicity of functions and displays, Carl F. Bucherer has ensured optimum readability of the dial on the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition. The designers met this challenge by giving it generous dimensions, different levels, and various surface finishes. The chronograph counters for the hours (6 o’clock), minutes (9 o’clock), and small running seconds hand (12 o’clock) are distinctively and attractively integrated into the striking recessed calendar displays, while fine lines provide the necessary readability and the slender stopwatch hand in the center marks counted seconds.

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The traditional complication of the perpetual calendar has been reinterpreted in contemporary fashion through wedge-shaped hour index marks, the expressive numbering so characteristic of Carl F. Bucherer, and tapering Super-LumiNova-coated hour and minute hands. The chronograph hands are either a discreet black or rose gold in color. The center of the classic silver-colored or black dial is matte, while the chronograph counters and minute division ring are brushed, creating an attractive play of light. The moon phase indicator is modern and functional in design, featuring an anthracite-colored background and a silver-colored moon disk.

This timelessly functional look is expertly continued in the case crafted of fine rose gold. The bezel is concave in shape, the sapphire crystal is domed, and the crown and polished chronograph push-pieces of 18-carat rose gold are elegantly simple. The case back with integrated sapphire crystal gives a clear view of the mechanical jewel featuring a 22-carat rose gold oscillating weight.

Another reason for the extreme exclusivity of the Manero ChronoPerpetual Limited Edition is the fact that only 100 will be made worldwide. With this latest piece in the Manero collection, Carl F. Bucherer has succeeded in creating a watch for connoisseurs who delight in masterworks of traditional watchmaking that unite maximum functionality with a timelessly classic, restrained look.

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Manero ChronoPerpetual


Reference No. 00.10907.03.13.01
Movement:
  • power reserve 50 h
  • 49 jewels
  • depth 7.6 mm
  • diameter 30 mm
  • Caliber CFB 1904
  • automatic 
Functions:
  • hour
  • minute
  • small seconds
  • flyback
  • leap year
  • chronograph: hours, minutes and seconds counters
  • perpetual calender with month, date, day of the week
  • moon phase
  • tachymeter
Dial:
                   silver-colored
Case:
  • depth 14.3 mm
  • diameter 42.5 mm
  • water-resistant to 30 m (3 atm)
  • case back with sapphire crystal
  • sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
  • 18 K rose gold
Strap:
  • hand-stitched Louisiana alligator skin brown leather
  • pin buckle 18 K rose gold
Limitation edition:
100 pieces
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Press center
Carl F. Bucherer
Langensandstrasse 27
CH-6002 Lucerne
Tel. +41 41 369 70 70
Fax +41 41 369 70 72
E-mail: presscenter@carl-f-bucherer.com
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Saturday, February 15, 2014

JEANRICHARD – Aquascope JAPAN

















JEANRICHARD AQUASCOPE JAPAN NEW

JEANRICHARD launches new Aquascope timepiece
To celebrate 150 years of Swiss-Japanese diplomatic relations


Tokyo, JAPAN (February 6, 2014) – The Swiss watchmaker JEANRICHARD launched today the latest addition to its Aquascope collection. This new timepiece was conceived to celebrate the 150 years of Swiss-Japanese relations in 2014. Its special dial design is derived from a well-known Japanese woodblock print by renowned artist Katsushika Hokusai (1760 – 1849). “The Great Wave off Kanagawa” is amongst his best known works from “The Thirty-Six Vews of Mount Fuji”.


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“We are proud to unveil this special model as a homage to this anniversary between Switzerland and Japan”, said Bruno Grande, CEO of JEANRICHARD. “As Daniel Jeanrichard is the first Swiss watchmaker to have ever built a watch movement back in 1681, we appreciate the pioneering spirit of the delegation that came to Japan 150 years ago. It is easily imagined that the delegation was strongly driven by their passion for success and pursuit to achieve something extraordinary. And what better way to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the two countries than to create unique timepieces by a Swiss watchmaker that pays respect to one of Japan’s greatest artists ever – Katsushika Hokusai”.

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Katsuhika Hokusai (1760 – 1849) is probably the best ukiyo-e artist in Japanese history. Hokusai produced a tremendous amount of outstanding prints and paintings which have made him famous over the years.

AQUASCOPE
"From the age of five I have had a mania for sketching the forms of things. From about the age of fifty I produced a number of designs, yet of all I drew prior to the age of seventy there is truly nothing of great note. At the age of seventy-two I finally apprehended something of the true quality of birds, animals, insects, fish and of the vital nature of grasses and trees. Therefore, at eighty I shall have made some progress, at ninety I shall have penetrated even further the deeper meaning of things, at one hundred I shall have become truly marvellous, and at one hundred and ten, each dot, each line shall surely possess a life of its own. I only beg that gentlemen of sufficiently long life take care to note the truth of my words."
-(Hokusai)-

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Hokusai was a man who pursued his art all his life. Lived his life to the fullest, savouring the best of each moment. He is a man who enjoyed everyday adventurers, authenticity and who made no compromises, be that on quality or on design. Hokusai had an independent spirit, scorned conventions and played by his own rules, travelling off the beaten paths. – Qualities of a true JEANRICHARD man - perfectly matching JEANRICHARD’s Philosophy of Life brand concept.

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ABOUT 150 years of Swiss-Japanese relations

It was 150 years ago on February 6, 1864, when a Friendship and Trade Treaty was signed between Switzerland and Japan. It was in the final years of the Edo period (1602-1868) when Japan opened its boarders to foreign trade. Aimé Humbert-Droz, a native of Neuchâtel, was mandated in April 1861 by the Swiss Federal Council to conduct an official delegation to Japan with the intention to seize this opportunity to open new markets for the Swiss watch industry and the textile manufacturers in Eastern Switzerland. A proponent of liberalism, Humbert served as president of the Watchmakers Association and was a member of the Swiss Council of States. He ultimately played an instrumental role in concluding the Treaty of Friendship and Commerce between Switzerland and Japan. Humbert landed in Yokohama harbor on April 27, 1863, on the Dutch warship Medusa. From his arrival onward, he tirelessly pursued negotiations with the Japanese authorities. Finally, on February 6, 1864, representatives from the Tokugawa shogunate and Humbert's delegation signed the Treaty of Friendship and Commerce - the eighth such treaty signed by Japan with a foreign country. As a consequence, Swiss trading houses in Yokohama were among the leading exporters of Japanese silk in the 19th century and in return, Switzerland exported fabrics and watches in significant quantities. The trade of Swiss watches to Japan flourished ever since.

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About JEANRICHARD

JEANRICHARD watches have been conceived for all those who enjoy challenges, revel in the unknown, and would like to live their lives to the fullest, savouring the best of each moment. These are the everyday adventurers, who enjoy authenticity and will make no compromises, be that on quality or on design. They are independent spirits who scorn conventions and play by their own rules, travelling off the beaten paths. The art of life JEANRICHARD timepieces come in four different collections, each paying tribute to the elements of our universe: Terrascope, Aquascope, Aeroscope and 1681. Earth, water, air, plus the fire of passion that has inspired our brand for over three centuries and has excited sophisticated globetrotters every day anew.
The different collections are to be found on: www.jeanrichard.com.

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ABOUT Katsuhika Hokusai (1760-1849)

Katsushika Hokusai was a Japanese artist, ukiyo-e painter and printmaker of the Edo period. He was influenced by such painters as Sesshu, and other styles of Chinese painting Born in Edo (now Tokyo), Hokusai is best known as author of the woodblock print series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji, which includes the internationally recognized print, The Great Wave off Kanagawa, created during the 1820s.

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Technical specifications
Ref: 60400-11E202-FK6A

Polished and vertically satin-finished stainless steel case
Circular satin-finished stainless steel bezel

Unidirectional rotating bezel
44.00 mm
Height: 13.05 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal
Case-back, screwed-down, engraved
Screwed-down crown
Water-resistant to 300 m
Movement JR60, self-winding
Calibre: 11 ½’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 26
Power reserve: minimum 38 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date
White, grey, blue or black “Hokusai” style engraved dial
Applied rhodium-coated indexes with luminescent material
Rhodium-coated hands with luminescent material
Blue or black rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet
Stainless steel folding or butterfly buckle

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Friday, February 14, 2014

RICHARD LANGE – PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna”
















A. Lange & Söhne -
RICHARD LANGE - Perpetual Calendar TerralunaNEW


Regulator with orbital moon-phase display and 14-day movement

The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna” is a horological masterpiece that combines A. Lange & Söhne’s benchmark precision, inventiveness, and design com­pe­tence. Featuring an orbital moon-phase display, a perpetual calendar with the Lange outsize date, a power-reserve of 14 days, and a constant-force escape­ment, this extraordinary time-keeping instrument represents the pinnacle of Saxon watchmaking artistry.  

The RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna is equally impressive on both sides. On the dial side of the 45.5-millimetre pink- or white-gold case, the watch stands out with the regulator layout of scientific precision watches. The movement side presents an innovative and useful orbital moon-phase display that depicts the constellation of the earth, moon, and sun.

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Three circles for time 
The large minute circle is at the top of the dial of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna. The smaller dials for the hours and seconds are beneath it, shifted toward the right and left. As was already the case with the RICHARD LANGE TOURBILLON  “Pour le Mérite” presented in 2011, this dial design was inspired by a great historic role model: Johann Heinrich Seyffert’s 1807 regulator from the world-famous timepiece collection of the Mathematics and Physics Salon.

With his ingenious designs, Seyffert helped transform Dresden into a hub of precision horology in the early 19th century. A great advantage in precision pocket watches, the regulator format was appreciated not only by time-keeping services and observatories, but also by watchmaking manufactories where it was used for synchronising new timepieces. This is because it provided an accurate display of the minutes and seconds.

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Four windows for eternity 
Beneath the characteristic Lange outsize date – the first one in a model of the RICHARD LANGE watch family, incident­ally – two smaller apertures show the day of the week on the left and the month on the right. Thanks to this arrangement, the calendar displays can be easily read at a glance. The calendar is mechanically programmed to correctly display the differ­ent durations of the months in a year as well as those in leap years until 2100.

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The leap-year indication is located in a small round window on the right-hand side of the 15 of the minute circle. All displays of the calendar switch for­ward instantaneously to assure unam­big­uous readings at all times. To keep the power for the switching process as low as possible, the required energy is gradually built up via a cam and then released abruptly at midnight.

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The ambitious precision goals of Lange’s product developers come to the fore not only in the configuration of the moon-phase display mechanism, which consists of three solid white-gold discs, but also in its design. To achieve a vivid and aesthetically sophisticated image of the orbiting moon-phase display, they chose a special coating process.

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On the celestial disc, for example, interference effects absorb all of the non-blue colour spectra of the incident light. The result is a deep-blue surface studded with more than a thousand high-contrast, sharply contoured stars.

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Constant force for two weeks 
With two rugged mainsprings, the twin barrel delivers a power reserve of 14 days. When a spring barrel stores so much energy, special technical precautions must be taken to keep the rate of the watch stable during the entire power-reserve period. The torque of the fully wound spring would be too high to be delivered directly to the going train. And as its torque declines when it approaches the unwound state, the accuracy of the watch would deteriorate.

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An elaborate constant-force escapement compensates for both phe­no­mena. In ten-second intervals, it releases an identical portion of the available energy to the balance, thus assuring that the torque remains constant. The result is an unvarying amplitude and high rate accuracy from the first day to the last. At the 6-o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator in the form of a circumferential ring tells the owner when the time has come to replenish the movement with fresh energy via the winding crown.
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The pursuit of supreme precision  
Since 2003, Lange has been part of the small community of watch manufactories that master the technology needed to produce balance springs. Only thus can the utmost precision be assured.

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For this reason, in addition to the balance spring, the remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement is also made in-house for the new L096.1 manufacture calibre of the RICHARD LANGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR “Terraluna. The indexless oscillator beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.

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Further Lange-style quality hallmarks include the hand-engraved balance cock and a lavishly hand-decorated movement. They are impressive manifestations of the manufactory’s quest for precision down to the very smallest detail.


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Contact information for the media

Arnd Einhorn, Director Press and PR
* Tel.: +49 (0)35053 44 5505
* E-mail: presse@lange-soehne.com
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Thursday, February 13, 2014

Girard-Perregaux – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections


GIRARD-PERREGAUX – iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 Collections NEW

Girard-Perregaux iconic 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections pay tribute to the traditional blue colour of the Brand


As one of the fundamental primary colors embodying all that is eternal, powerful and elegant, the Girard-Perregaux flagship 1966 and Vintage 1945 collections now feature dials clad exclusively in blue.

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By its choice of elegant tone, the Swiss Manufacturer offers lovers of fine watches an extra touch of originality and acknowledges the prominence that color has played in many of its historic timepieces. In the closing years of the 18th century, Girard-Perregaux’s founder Jean-François Bautte, was one of the first master watchmakers to make successful use of this distinctive tone, in what was seen at the time as a revolutionary development. It has been a regular feature of Girard-Perregaux watches ever since.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 


The Girard-Perregaux 1966 model combines understatement, delicacy and precision. It is admirably balanced design and well-proportioned dimensions make it one of the most immaculately finished timepieces.
Its magnificent, slightly-domed dial is now presented in a deep blue tone. A subtle sunburst effect creates an interplay of reflections, which makes the light appear to dance with each movement of the watch. Displaying the date in a window at 3 o'clock, the dial is adorned with elegant gilded baton hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, plus a double marker at 12 o'clock. Its leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are also gilded, as is its straight large seconds hand.

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Crafted in pink gold, the case, with its slightly protruding middle surmounted by a beveled, diamond-effect bezel, gives the watch a profile of rare distinction. It has a diameter of 38 mm and is 8.62 mm thick. Inside the case the GP03300-0030 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement beats its rhythm as it marks out the hours, minutes, seconds and date. It has a power reserve of up to 46 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It is fitted with a pink gold pin buckle and alligator strap that matches the deep blue tone of the dial.

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Technical Specifications
 Ref: 49525-52-432-BB4A (Blue dial Blue alligator strap )

Case: pink gold
Diameter: 38.00 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Calibre: Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0030
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 27
Functions: hour, minute, central second, date
Blue alligator strap
Pink gold pin buckle

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Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second


The Vintage 1945 XXL collection combines an attractive rectangular case with features representing the most authentic Art Deco style of watchmaking. The new Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second introduces a blue dial as well with iridescent reflections into the range for the first time. Like the case, the dial presents a profile that is twice as curved further emphasized by a vertical brushed effect.

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This contrasts with the satin finish of the small second indication, whose red figure "60" represents the sole touch of bright color to be found in the ensemble. The edge of the dial is surrounded by a railtrack minute circle accompanied by polished "Breguet" applique numerals. The Dauphine-type minute and hour hands are faceted and delicately curved by hand to follow the shape of the dial thus creating a sparkling interplay of light.

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The imposing 36.20 mm x 35.25 mm polished steel case features two vertical gadroons at 12 and 6 o'clock. Equipped with a GP03300-0051 mechanical, self-winding Manufacture movement, the Vintage 1945 XXL Small Second timepiece indicates the hours, minutes and small seconds.

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The model is available in two different versions. The first is equipped with a navy blue alligator strap while the second is fitted with a steel bracelet.

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Technical Specifications

Case: steel
Dimensions: 36.20 x 35.25 mm
Crystal: anti-reflective sapphire
Case-back: sapphire crystal, secured by four screws
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
Girard-Perregaux movement GP03300-0051
Mechanical, self-winding movement
Diameter: 25.60 mm (11 Ѕ’’’)
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h - (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Jewels: 32
Functions: hour, minute, small second
Blue alligator strap
Steel folding buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-BB4A
Steel bracelet
Safety folding with triple-blade buckle
Reference: 25880-11-421-11A

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Wednesday, February 12, 2014

Parmigiani Fleurier – TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

















Parmigiani Fleurier TORIC RESONANCE 3 White Gold RHODIUM

It is not the first time Parmigiani Fleurier has combined a large date with a minute repeater. However, no watchmaker has ever before offered instantaneous rotation of such a colossal date. The Toric Résonance 3 is in this sense, a world-first.

AN INSTANTANEOUS OUT-SIZED DATE

Consider the following: if the Toric Résonance 3 had featured a continuous date change occurring within a few hours in a smooth and uniform motion, the mechanical challenge would be moderate. But because we’re talking about an instantaneous date jump occurring in 1/100th of a second, so fast in fact, that its transition is invisible to the eye, this timepiece is a true mechanical feat.
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Despite being cut to an incredible fineness, the out-sized date discs have an immense inertia. This means they require huge amounts of energy to launch in rotation and even more to stop them dead following the instantaneous jump, without them rebounding under the effect of the forces exerted. It’s much like launching a huge truck at 100 km/h in a split second and then having to stop it within a meter.

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Hence every night at midnight, the Toric's white gold case plays host to this extraordinary mechanical feat based on a double cam system. The first cam accumulates energy through continuous friction over the course of 24 hours.

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This arms the large lever continuously, releasing it at midnight precisely onto a 31-tooth wheel. The second cam plays the crucial role of a brake, by controlling a spring-mounted lever. This device keeps the large date discs permanently immobile, releasing them for just a fraction of a second every 24 hours at midnight to allow the instantaneous jump.


A MINUTE REPEATER WITH CATHEDRAL CHIME

Activated by a trigger to the left of the case, the minute repeater strikes the hours, quarters and minutes with a vibrant melody. A minute repeater qualifies for “cathedral chime” when its gongs cover at least 1,5 times the perimeter of the case. The Toric Résonance 3 goes a step beyond this requirement with beautiful snake-shaped gongs that circle twice around the borders of the movement.

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It’s very challenging to accommodate within the small and intricate space of an Haute Horlogerie watch case, but the sound of the chime is considerably richer and more beautiful which makes the true value of a minute repeater at Parmigiani Fleurier. The case in white gold – the perfect material to enhance the sound’s resonance – puts the finishing touch to the beautiful melody.

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The Toric Résonance 3 is a quest to the extreme.  It’s about maximising the size of a date until the very limits of mechanical constraints; creating a harmonious melody until the entire physical space has been consumed; finishing each component with absolute care and hours of devotion, even when they are hidden from
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Technical details

MOVEMENT
Minute repeater & large date movement sounding the hours,
Quarter-hours and minutes
Calibre: PF359
Winding : Manual
Power reserve : 48 hours
Dimensions : 15''' - Ø 33.80 mm
Thickness : 8.89 mm
Frequency : 2.5 Hz - 18.000 A/h
Jewels : 33
Barrel(s) : 1
Components : 459
Decoration : Hand-bevelled main plate and bridges
FUNCTIONS 
Hours, Minutes
Minute repeater
Instantaneous big date accumulator
CASE 
Shape : 3-part round case
Dimensions : Ø 45 mm
Thickness : 14.1
Material : White gold 18 ct
Finishing : Polished
Water resistance : 10 m
Glass : Anti-reflective sapphire
Crown : Ø 7 mm
Back : Sapphire
Back engraving : "MODELE UNIQUE" and individual number
DIAL 
Finishing : Blasted opaline outer, guilloche and hand-engraved centre
Colour : Silver
Index : Black lacquered appliques
Hands : Delta-shaped, lacquered
BRACELET
Material : Alligator
Colour : Black
Brand : Hermès
BUCKLE
Type: Ardillon



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