Monday, September 17, 2012

Urwerk - UR-210

URWERK UR-210 New

Never has a timepiece displayed such feedback and attachment to its owner. In a first for a wristwatch, URWERK's UR-210 highlights and monitors the symbiotic relationship between man and his mechanical watch. While the UR-210 is characterized by its original URWERK time display, of equal note - and with reason - is the UR-210's personalized communication with its owner.

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If the UR-210 displays a cold chronometric precision in counting the hours, it plays the card of emotion when it echoed the tempo of your life:
 "The UR-210 embodies the symbiotic relationship between man and his watch. This quasi-biologic machine could reveal more about you than any other object in your possession," explains Martin Frei


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The dial of the UR‐210 features a traditional power reserve indication at one o’clock. In a near mirror image at 11 o’clock we find a similar indication. No, it isn’t a duplicate fail‐safe, but something much more important which deserves our full attention, because it is actually a world‐first complication that indicates winding efficiency over the last two hours.

When you are comfortably nestled in your armchair, the indicator will be tending towards the red zone to tell you that your UR‐210 is not being wound enough by its automatic rotor and is running on stored energy. However, if you are moving around energetically, the indicator will point towards the green zone, a sign that you are replenishing your watch with new energy. This entirely new indication does not measure mainspring torque, but calculates the difference between the consumed and generated energy of the mainspring.

Armed with knowledge of both winding efficiency and available power reserve, you are now able to intervene. If your UR‐210 indicates an insufficient supply of energy, you can position the winding efficiency selector (at the back of the watch) to “FULL”.


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The rotor will then convert the slightest movement into stored energy. In this configuration, a
turbine connected to the rotor provides smooth, unimpeded power. But if you are more active, then that may provide more power than required and unnecessarily wear the mechanism. In that case, you would position the winding efficiency selector to “REDUCED” to engage the rotor damping system. An air turbine compressor mounted on ruby bearings spins and creates internal resistance – enough friction to slow down or dampen the automatic winding rotor. In “STOP” mode, the automatic winding system is disabled completely and the UR‐210 runs off reserve power and may require manual winding.


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Back to the dial side, the UR‐210’s satellite complication with retrograde minute is both highly original and totally explosive. The principal feature is a high‐tech, oversized, three‐dimensional retrograde minute hand. Its function is to enclose the hour satellite and indicate the time as it transverses the 0‐to‐60‐minute scale. This one‐hour journey through time, tracing an arc of 120°, is
smooth and fluid. But the true nature of the piece is revealed at the end of the 59th minute. Then a sharp distinct “click” signals the return of the minute hand to its starting point. In less than 0.1 of a second the hand flies back to dock with the next hour satellite. This lightning fast retrograde system is based on three key elements:

    ---   A central axis set in ruby bearings provides excellent stability for тhe satellite/ретрограде complication. A cylindrical marine chronometer type spring runs vertically around the асс and generates the optimal tension required for the retrograde minutes flyback.

    ---  A minute hand, which also forms a frame for the hour satellites, displays the time in an extraordinary way. Milled from aluminum to exacting tolerances of approximately 3 microns, the whole structure has a total weight of just 0.302g and is counter balanced by a brass weight. This three‐dimensional cage offers rigidity as it transfers energy from the cylindrical flyback spring in the top center of the carrousel to the double‐star gear underneath.

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    ---   A double coaxial star‐shaped cam regulates the retrograde mechanism through its gearing and its rotation defines the trajectory of the minute hand. When the minute hand reaches 60, the double star trips a (one of three) hockey‐stick shaped spring under the mechanism, which liberates the minute to fly back to the next hour satellite at 0‐minutes.

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“In terms of the degree of evolution of the satellite carousel, I feel with the UR‐210 that we have reached the pinnacle of what we can do with this complication.” explains Felix Baumgartner. “After the presentation of our über complicated UR‐1001 Zeit Device, we wanted to experiment again on an imposing scale. The minute hand in the heart of the UR‐210 is not just big, it is massive! And yet it presented us with a considerable challenge because it requires fine, delicate workmanship. It envelops the hour satellites and demands machining to extremely fine tolerances.”

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Martin Frei adds: “More than any other URWERK piece, the UR‐210 catches the attention. The eye is inevitably drawn to the winding efficiency indicator… it’s almost a magnetic attraction. The UR‐210 is not really a watch but rather a living mechanism grafted onto your wrist. We have nicknamed the UR‐210 the Maltese Falcon because we see it as the stuff that dreams are made of.

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Felix Baumgartner concludes: “The UR‐210 represents a serious accomplishment for URWERK. This timepiece opens a new chapter in the evolution of our complications. It doesn’t just measure a universal value in a completely original way, but starts a real dialogue between the watch and its wearer. The UR‐210 indicates your personal activity; this is yours and nobody else’s
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Technical Specifications

Case
Material: Titanium and steel
Dimensions: Width 43.8mm, length 53.6mm, thickness 17.8mm
Glasses Sapphire crystal
Water resistance 30m/100’/3ATM
Surface finishes Satin finish
Movement
Caliber UR‐7.10
Jewels 51
Escapement Swiss lever
Balance Monometallic
Frequency 28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring Flat
Power source Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve 39 hours
Winding system Self‐winding coupled to turbines
Materials Plate in ARCAP P40; 3D minute hand in aluminum with brass
counterweight; central cylindrical spiral in spring‐steel; hour satellites in
aluminium; central carrousel and screws in Titanium Grade 5.
Surface finishes Circular graining, sandblasted, circular and straight satin‐finished plate;
satin‐finished and diamond‐polished satellites; beveled and polished
screw heads.
Indications
Patented revolving satellite complication with wandering hour and
three‐dimensional retrograde minute hand; power reserve indicator;
winding efficiency indicator (patent pending).
Super‐LumiNova treatment on markers, dials, indexes, hands, and
satellites
Controls
Two‐position winding crown
On the back: winding efficiency selector

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Press Release PDF (ENG)
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www.Urwerk.com

Sunday, September 16, 2012

HYSEK - Verdict Automatic Limited Edition















HYSEK - Verdict Automatic Limited Edition NEW



The Verdict Automatic is an intensely urban and contemporary timepiece equipped with a mechanical calibre self-winding micro rotor manufactured with a specific escapement made in-house by Hysek. Made of 170 components and 27 jewels, this avant-garde heart is a real success in terms of chronometry. Verdict will be produced of stainless steel to only 30 pieces.




















Sublime for its balance, this 30-meter water resistance has a dial manufactured by Hysek and leaving visible the oscillating micro-rotor at the movement of its owner. This powerful element with graphical character strengthens the playful nature of this timepiece.

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Proposed with an alligator strap, this piece with a refine and architectural design fits the wrist by an efficient Hysek fold-over buckle in steel.

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Technical details

Ref. VE4523A01
 

Movement
HYSEK Calibre HW30
Movement with automatic winding up
Glucydur balance
22K Gold micro-rotor on dial side
Côte de Genève finishing
170 components
27 jewels
Hour and minute
Small second at 9 o’clock
Frequency: 28 800 Vph
Autonomy: 48hours ± 2h
Case, dial & strap
Steel case
Size: Ø44.5mm x W10.6mm
Unscrewed crown
Sapphire glass with anti-reflection
Water resistance: 30 meters
Dial manufactured by HYSEK
Hand-sewn alligator strap
HYSEK fold-over buckle in steel

Limited edition:  only 30 pieces

Price: On request
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Hysek.com

Saturday, September 15, 2012

OFFICINE PANERAI - Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio















PANERAI - PAM 389 Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio NEW


Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio

Movement: Automatic mechanical, 
Panerai P.9000 calibre, executed entirely by Panerai
13¾  lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, 
Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. 
Incabloc® anti-shock device. 
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 
197 components.
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, calculation of immersion time.
Case: Diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
Bezel: Anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel in ceramic and brushed titanium with polished edges, graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.
Back: Screw, titanium.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a trademark) Brushed titanium.
Dial: Black with applied luminous hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.
Crystal: Sapphire, formed of corundum, 3.2 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water- resistance: 30 bar (~ 300 metres).       
Strap: PANERAI personalised rubber strap and large-size brushed titanium buckle.
Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool to change the strap and a steel screwdriver.


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The creative energy of Officine Panerai Workshop of Ideas is demonstrated in the Luminor  Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio, the new model which is a novel synthesis of the strict respect for traditional values and authenticity of the Panerai brand, and the continuous search for technically advanced solutions. 
 
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Remarkable resistance to magnetic fields

For Panerai, innovation is above all about functionality, and in the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio it is seen in its special case construction which ensures a remarkable degree of resistance to magnetic fields: 40,000 A/m (ampere per metre), a limit more than eight times greater than the value specified by the international standards of the Normes de lIndustrie Horlogère Suisse (NIHS 90-10). 


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Such a high limit is achieved by the use of a special internal case made of soft iron of the highest purity, which encloses and isolates the movement, forming a Faraday cage that diverts the flow of magnetic fields. The soft iron case is immediately beneath the dial, which is made of the same material. 
 
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This case structure is useful not only in extreme environmental situations but also in daily life, in that watches are often exposed to magnetic fields generated by electric charges and currents emanating from objects in common use, such as household appliances, computers 2 and cell phones. Such magnetic fields can noticeably alter the rate of the watch and even stop the movement: a possibility that is virtually non-existent in the new Luminor Submersible 1950 


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New ceramic and titanium bezel

The soft iron internal case of the Luminor Submersible 1950 Amagnetic 3 Days Automatic Titanio is contained within a classic Luminor Submersible case of brushed titanium, fitted with the lever bridge which locks the winding crown and thus helps in achieving water-resistance to a depth of 300 metres. 


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The design of the watch includes a feature which is completely new in Panerai watches: applied to the rotating titanium bezel, inspired by that of the models made by Panerai for the Egyptian Navy in the 1950s, is a disc of opaque black ceramic, on which the linear and dot-shaped titanium markers are fixed. The bezel rotates only in a clockwise direction, to prevent accidental movement interfering with the measurement of the time of the dive. 

Panerai Сalibre P.9000
 
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Technical Specifications

Movement: automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9000 calibre,
executed entirely by Panerai, 13 ¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 28 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour.
Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. Incablock® anti-shock device.
195 components.
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date,
calculation of immersion time.
Case: diameter 47 mm, brushed titanium.
Bezel: brushed titanium with polished edges, anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion and ratchet click at minute intervals.
Back: see-through sapphire crystal.
Device protecting the crown: (protected as a Trademark) brushed titanium.
Crystal: sapphire, made from corundum, 4 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
Water- resistance: 30 bar (~300 metres).
Strap: PANERAI personalised rubber strap and large-size brushed titanium buckle. Supplied with a second interchangeable strap, a tool to change the strap and a steel screwdriver.


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www.PANERAI.com

BREITLING for Bentley Barnato 42 Midnight Carbon Limited Edition


















BREITLING for Bentley Barnato 42 Midnight Carbon Limited Edition NEW

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A black-clad sports model
Barnato. The name of the most famous among the "Bentley Boys", the men engaged in a passionate pursuit of victories and accomplishments that included winning the Le Mans 24 Hours Race no less than five times between 1924 and 1930. Also the name of an exceptional chronograph combining superlative style with peerless performance.

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 Breitling for Bentley now interprets this sporty model in a 1,000-piece limited edition entirely clothed in black – from the case made of a steel that is the color of night thanks to a highly resistant carbon-based treatment, through the dial to the supple and sturdy rubber strap. The "instrument panel" appearance is reinforced by the chromed steel-rimmed counters, the red accents and a tachometric scale on the inner bezel. The generous size of the bezel heights the effect of the elegant raised knurled motif inspired by the famous Bentley radiator grilles.

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The large hour-markers and the oversized hands enhanced by a luminescent coating guarantee easy reading of the time in any circumstances, even in the heat of action. This ardent and sophisticated sports model is powered by a selfwinding chronograph movement chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) – the ultimate token of precision and reliability.  
Bentley Barnato 42 Midnight Carbon: the stuff of a champion.


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BENTLEY BARNATO 42

Movement

Breitling Calibre 41B, (Base Movement ETA 2892-A2)
officially chronometer-certified by the COSC
elfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 
38 jewels. 1/4th second chronograph, 
30-second and 12-hour totalizers. 
Calendar.
Case
Steel. Water-resistant to 100 m.
Screw-locked crown.
Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides.
Diameter: 42 mm.
Strap
Bentley leather, rubber/Speed.

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timezone.com
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www.Breitling for Bentley.com

Friday, September 14, 2012

LOUIS MOINET - Astralis

LOUIS MOINET - Astralis Mars, Mercury, Moon, Sun

 MARS TOUCHES DOWN AT LOUIS MOINET
With the spotlight pointed on Mars thanks to the recent historic landing of the space rover Curiosity, Astralis is still the only wristwatch to contain a piece of the Red Planet – a fragment of Martian meteorite that travelled over 55 million kilometers before reaching the Earth !

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The fragment of Martian meteorite in Astralis travelled over 55 million kilometers before landing in Oman desert.

To date, only 63 meteorite rocks found on Earth have been identified as being from Mars. Louis Moinet has an exclusive collaboration with Luc Labenne, the most celebrated meteorite hunter. In the following interview, he explained to us how he found Astralis’ Martian meteorite in the desert.

Luc Labenne, meteorite hunter www.meteorites.tv
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Exclusive Interview with Luc Labenne


The distance between Mars and Earth is over 50 million kilometres. What is the path of a Martian meteorite before landing on Earth?
A Martian meteorite is a fragment of Mars ejected after impact from another a meteorite impact. To assess the age of the Martian rock, we first talk about the “formation age” on Mars. The impacts on the surface allows us to determine the “age of ejection” of the meteorite.
The length of time between the rock leaving Mars and reaching Earth can vary from about 1 million years to 20 million years. The last bit of useful data is the “terrestrial age” of the meteorite ground, that is, the length of time it has been on Earth. These three dates allow us to obtain relatively precise information on the origin of the meteorite as well as the path it has taken before landing on Earth.

How can we be sure that a meteorite has come from Mars?
A first sample is taken and then sent to universities and scientists such as A. Irving (University of Washington, Departement of Earth and Space Sciences, Seattle, USA), an expert in Martian meteorites or R. Korotev (McDonnell Center for Space Sciences, Washington Univ., St. Louis, USA), an authority on lunar meteorites. When identifying a Martian meteorite, the first thing is to establish its composition. Analysis of gases contained in the bubbles of the minerals can be compared with the results of analyses gathered by probes from NASA’s pioneering Viking program to confirm the Martian origin of meteorites. This is the main thing we have to do. Identification is then confirmed
by the oxygen isotopes of these analyses. Finally, the control of the «formation age» of the rock enables the final confirmation. In fact, Martian meteorites are relatively young, about a few hundred million years old compared to 4.5 billion years for non-planetary meteorites.
To date, 63 Martian meteorites have officially been found on Earth. Most have been dedicated to science or exhibited in museums.


 ASTRALIS «MARS»  18K rose gold 5N Havana dial Unique piece

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What is the importance of having Martian or lunar meteorites, from a scientific point of view?
For the Moon, for example, we have samples from the Apollo missions, but these relate only to the visible face of the Moon – for communication reasons (no radio signals), the mission was not able to explore the hidden side. There is therefore interest in whether the lunar meteorites originated from the visible or hidden side. After analysis, the moon rocks I have found on Earth were a lot different to those brought back by the Apollo mission, and this has given us other information about the composition of the lunar soil.
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In general, meteorites allow us a better understanding of the origins and formation of planets.
It’s the same importance for Martian meteorites, to find out about their formation, but also to figure out if Mars could ever have supported life and/or has traces of water. Currently, no sample of rock has been brought back from Mars. Future missions are still on the drawing board for complexity and financial reasons. Curiosity is performing analyses but not bringing samples back. Martian meteorites can therefore make up for this by providing these samples. Until now, the Martian meteorites are essentially basalt (chunks of lava). Scientists hope to find sedimentary meteorites to obtain more information and perhaps prove the existence of life on Mars. This is also the reason why Curiosity landed in a crater: It’s a good place to find and analyse these sedimentary rocks.

ASTRALIS «MERCURY» 18K rose gold 5N Silver dial Unique piece

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Third distinctive feature : combination of 3 complications
These four collection watches have a combination of complications never seen before: In addition to the 24-hour planetarium there is an astral tourbillon and splitsecond, column-wheel chronograph. Signature Louis Moinet “Côtes du Jura” engraving embellishes the dial and “Gouttes de Rosée” hands accompany the splitsecond chronograph hand decorated with a shooting star,
which activate by pushing the pusher carefully integrated into the crown.
A sapphire glass caseback enables the viewer to admire the exclusive movement LM27, fully redeveloped based on a vintage Venus calibre. The chronograph column wheel and split-second ‘scorpion’ clamps provide ultrasmooth functionality and can be glimpsed through the
display back along with a plate engraved with planets which, together with the gold chaton and blued screws, evoke a beautiful night sky.

Is the composition of a Martian meteorite very different from a terrestrial rock?
As previously stated, Martian meteorites found so far are mainly lava rocks so visually close to terrestrial basalt rocks. However, shock veins can be observed in meteorites, which do not exist in terrestrial rocks and this allows early identification in the field. But the main difference lies in the fact that the minerals in these rocks are partially melted due to the impact on Mars. Bubbles of gas specific to Mars are also present in these meteorites.
 
 ASTRALIS «MOON» 18K white gold, bezel and lugs set with 66 Top Wesselton VVS baguette diamonds (3.38 cts) Black dial Unique piece


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ASTRALIS «SUN»  The unique universe of Astralis


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The meteorites that you find – for whom are they intended?
Primarily for scientists, then private collectors and museums. For lunar and Martian meteorites, most are intended for science due to their limited number, priority is given to research

The unique universe of Astralis

First distinctive feature : the 24-hour planetarium 
Astralis boasts a planetarium at 6 o’clock containing not one but four highly-polished rare meteorites – Dhofar 459, Itqiy, Sahara 99555 and Jiddat al Harasis 479 – respectively denoting the Moon, the Sun and the planets Mercury and Mars. Sahara 99555 it is the oldest known rock in the entire Solar System, estimated at 4 billion 566 million years, earning it the nickname the «Rosetta Stone» of our Solar System (though we are not certain it originates from Mecury).

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The Sun is symbolised in the planetarium by a sliver of Itqiy, a beautiful meteorite whose origins remain mysterious. All four of these fragments of extra-terrestrial rocks are unique and mounted on a finely-cut aventurine disk, evoking a starry sky making a one revolution per day.


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Martian meteorite Jiddat al Harasis 479, used to depict Mars on the 24-hour planetarium. Found in the Sultanate of Oman in 2008, and authenticated by the «Russian Academy of Science», Moscow.

Second distinctive feature : Four unique timepieces
To celebrate the exploits of Curiosity, Louis Moinet has decided to present a unique set of four unique Astralis timepieces, with the dark brown, silver, dark blue and diamond-speckled black dials. The presentation case for each watch is a work of art in itself: A planetoidal sphere 21 cm in diameter created by sculptor Jean-Yves Kervevan, representing Mars, the Moon, Mercury and the Sun.


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An art object handcrafted by Jean-Yves Kervévan nd depicting the Sun Diameter : 21 cm

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Technical specifications

Astralis Unique Pieces are a quartet of split-second chronographs, each named after an important celestial body in our solar system: Mars, Mercury, the Moon and the Sun. All four timepieces feature a 24-hour planetarium with authentic meteorite fragments representing the same four planetoids.

Features and functions
Hours, minutes and seconds
Split-second, column-wheel chronograph with seconds, split seconds and 30-minute counter
24-hour planetarium
Astral tourbillon
Dial
Planetarium containing fragments of exclusive meteorites: Dhofar 459 (symbolising the Moon), Itqiy (symbolising the Sun), Sahara 99555 (symbolising the Sun), and Jiddat al Harasis 479 (symbolising Mars)
Côtes du Jura guilloche
Colours: Moon – black; Mercury – silver; Sun - midnight blue; Mars - Havana
Facetted applied hour-markers/hour indices
Hands
Gouttes de Rosée hour and minute hands 'shooting star' split-second chronograph hand
Movement and finishing
Louis Moinet Calibre LM27 
Tourbillon cage: 1 turn/minute
Jewels: 31 
Winding: Hand-winding 
Oscillations: 21,600vph
Frequency: 3 Hz 
Lines: 14.5 
Power reserve: 48 hours 
Escapement: Side lever 
Oscillator: CuBe two-arm balance wheel, moment of inertia: 10.5 mg/cm2, lever angle 52° 
Split-second mechanism: Blued steel column-wheel with monobloc split-second ‘scorpion’ clamps 
Hand-engraved plate 
Polished jewel sinks 
Grained brass 
Blued steel screws
Case
Diameter: 46.50mm 
Height: 17.62mm
Material: 18K rose gold (Mars and Mercury), 18K white gold (Sun), 18K white gold and 66 Top Wesselton baguette diamonds (3.38 cts) (Moon)
Comprising 50 elements that are meticulously assembled 
Facets softened by the work of the master polisher 
Sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment 
Case diameter: 46.50mm 
Case thickness: 17.62mm 
Water resistance: 50m 
Caseback: Secured with 7 screws, engraved with the individual number and Louis Moinet symbols 
Crown guard: patent pending 
Pusher inside crown activates split-second chronograph 
Champagne cork chronograph pushers with compass rose motif 
Bracelet
Louisiana alligator leather, hand-stitched
Colours: Moon – black; Mercury - Havana brown; Sun - midnight blue; Mars – Havana brown
Buckle: 18k gold and black titanium double folding clasp

Presentation box
Presented in a resin-cast, planetoidal box handcrafted by artist Jean-Yves Kervévan. All four unique pieces – Mars, Mercury, Moon and Sun – are, in turn, presented in a leather-bound wooden cabinet.


The unique universe of Astralis


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The four Astralis are stylishly housed in a leather-bound wooden cabinet with their own planetoidal box

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 www.facebook.com - Louis Moinet
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www.LouisMoinet.com