Friday, March 22, 2024

Bernhard Lederer – CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer CIC 39 mm Edition

 

Bernhard LedererTribute to the Masters of Escapments CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer CIC Gold 39 mm Limited Edition - 2024

 A challenge, both technical and aesthetic – elegantly resolved.
A delicate undertaking that required a thorough rethinking of the movement – and further optimized it in the process.
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A watch whose exterior aesthetic refinement reflects its interior
mechanical excellence

After winning the prestigious Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève in 2021, Lederer's celebrated Central Impulse Chronometer is back in the spotlight. Today, the watch not only continues to impress with its avant-garde mechanism – which has been further refined – but also with its new, more sober aesthetic, presented in a 39mm diameter case.
 

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 This new creation marks a complete reinvention of the CIC’s technical innovation and design, pushing the boundaries of established conventions while preserving the tenets of traditional watchmaking expertise. Its updated appearance offers a modern and refined elegance, in sync with current trends.

Creative freedom, innovation,
and unparalleled precision.

Initially presented in a 44mm case, this horological masterpiece embraces a new era with a smaller, more contemporary 39mm size. This evolution is not merely a matter of size; it marks a significant mechanical advance with the introduction of a new triggering system for the constant-force remontoirs, designed and developed in-house at Lederer's Saint-Blaise (Neuchâtel) workshop.

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Lederer’s CIC 39 embodies creative freedom and technical precision, delivering a new contemporary elegance. Every aspect, from the 18% reduction in the movement’s thickness to the new synchronization of the seconds hands, represents a significant technical challenge, expertly mastered.

 This new offering highlights Lederer's dedication to maintaining the genuine spirit of its legacy, simultaneously advancing the frontiers of technical innovation. At Lederer’s Manufacture in Saint-Blaise, excellence is the standard. Leveraging its autonomy and savoir-faire, Lederer extends the limits of watchmaking traditions, while ensuring its essence and the core values remain intact.

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“When you alter the geometry of an escapement, there are significant technical implications and it triggers a domino effect. Developing theCentral Impulse Chronometer in a 39mm size was not merely about reducing the diameter; the movement’s height had to be brought down, too, to preserve the aesthetic balance. So this project went quite a ways beyond simple refinement or thinning out safety margins; that would have jeopardized the movement’s stability and reliability. In fact, every aspect and detail had to be meticulously assessed as to whether a redesign was warranted. Thanks to these very minute and very precise adjustments, we were able to reduce the movement’s thickness by more than 1mm, approximately 18% of its original size, which in itself is remarkable,” 
Bernhard Lederer explains

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For Bernhard Lederer, the challenge was as much technical as it was aesthetic. Mastering the complexity of fitting all components perfectly within a smaller diameter—ensuring they not only fit but also work seamlessly together, all while maintaining harmonious proportions and achieving the necessary finesse – to him, it was akin to navigating the fine line between what's imaginable and what's achievable.

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Reducing the diameter from 44mm to 39mm was a delicate endeavor, necessitating a profound redesign of the movement. Beyond raising the bar for precision and ingenuity, this process also opened new realms of creative freedom, unlocking a space for expression with even more possibilities of refinement. Here, reducing was not merely a matter of shrinking; on the contrary, it involved pushing the boundaries further, thinking differently, developing, and finding solutions to deliver uncompromising aesthetics and exceptional exactness.

Everything about this watch reveals
the passion and authentic vision of
Bernhard Lederer

 The difference in diameter is immediately obvious; less so the real highlight: the new detent mechanism for activating the remontoirs. Developed entirely in-house, this redesign significantly enhances the watch’s reliability and performance.

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It represents a notable advancement beyond the previous system, which was governed by a Wankel disk on the seconds wheel. Although it was engineered to minimize interference, it was not immune to disruptions, however minimal they might be. In the new mechanism, activation occurs directly within the winder, reducing the force required to engage the system by a factor of 9. This innovative approach not only elevates quality, precision, and reliability to unprecedented levels, but it also introduces a contemporary masterpiece that pays tribute to the great watchmaking tradition.

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“As a result of this modification, the flow of force to the escapement is even smoother, ensuring exceptional precision and regularity throughout the duration of the power reserve,” 
explains Bernhard Lederer.
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Inspired by Louis-Abraham Breguet’s pioneering work on the ‘natural escapement’ and George Daniels’s innovative ‘Independent Double Wheel Escapement’ design, Bernhard Lederer revisited the escapement from a modern perspective. The inherent limitations of these innovations – the natural escapement was too heavy to ensure reliable performance and the Independent Double Wheel Escapement, while powerful, was only applicable to pocket watches – led Bernhard Lederer to develop a new geometry, aimed at adapting the novel escapement for everyday use.

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To achieve this, Lederer installed two independent escape wheels at the end of two separate gear trains, each equipped with its own 10-second constant-force remontoir. These wheels operate alternately, achieving a remarkable symmetry.
 
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With a detent mechanism that is absolutely one of a kind –its profile, its rubies, its lift angle, its direct central impulse – and therefore theoretically perfect, the result is a truly extraordinary system. This design minimizes friction and ensures the balance wheel receives energy with optimal timing, enhancing isochronism and stability.
 
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From the outset, a frequency of 3 Hz was chosen because a watch worn on the wrist has to contend with shocks that impact the movement's regulating components. These components must resume their operation as quickly as possible after each shock, a crucial requirement for ensuring optimal precision under wearing conditions.

An ingenious mechanism ensuring unparalleled precision
over the entire duration of the power reserve

The two escapement wheels, operating independently of each other, are each linked to a seconds counter. While the two seconds hands are also independent of each other, they are permanently synchronized, showing no drift in relation to each other until the end of the power reserve is reached.

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This is made possible by an ingenious new mechanism that activates exclusively towards the end of the power reserve, bringing the entire watch to a halt. Thanks to this subtle system, which can recognize when the remontoir is no longer wound, the Central Impulse Chronometer 39mm is protected from a loss of precision that occurs as energy decreases at the end of the power reserve. This ensures the perfectly synchronized positioning of the two seconds hands from full to empty.

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 The two escapement wheels, operating independently of each other, are each linked to a seconds counter. While the two seconds hands are also independent of each other, they are permanently synchronized, showing no drift in relation to each other until the end of the power reserve is reached.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

This is made possible by an ingenious new mechanism that activates exclusively towards the end of the power reserve, bringing the entire watch to a halt. Thanks to this subtle system, which can recognize when the remontoir is no longer wound, the Central Impulse Chronometer 39mm is protected from a loss of precision that occurs as energy decreases at the end of the power reserve. This ensures the perfectly synchronized positioning of the two seconds hands from full to empty.

At the Lederer Manufacture in Saint-Blaise, which employs over 25 people, dials, hands, and indexes, too are manufactured in-house

 An interesting aspect of this dial’s design lies in Manufacture Lederer's ability to also produce its own dials, hands, and indices in-house, thus ensuring not only exceptional quality but also adherence to delivery schedules. The integrated manufacturing of these components, which are usually outsourced, reflects the brand’s commitment to uncompromising excellence and independence.

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The open seconds counter at 11 o'clock, with its hand sweeping counterclockwise, bears the inscription ‘Dual Chronometer,’ highlighting the two mechanisms central to the Central Impulse Chronometer. Watch enthusiasts who appreciate the watch’s functional duality will appreciate this detail, which underscores the mechanism's complexity and superior performance.
 
The other seconds counter, positioned at 8 o'clock, with its hand rotating clockwise, has been deliberately 'closed' to enhance overall readability and to avoid competing with the visual impact of the constant-force winding mechanism, a feature that further amplifies the precision and innovation at the core of this creation.
 
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The 'Lederer' signature, carefully inlaid in a cartouche at 5 o'clock, adds a further dimension of depth to this masterpiece. The letters, as if in bas-relief, reinforce the watch’s identity while underlining its exclusive character and attention to detail.
 
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On the case back, a second sapphire crystal, domed and beveled – an element as challenging to craft as the watch's front crystal – provides an exceptional view of the movement’s architecture. Three-dimensional, symmetrical, oblique, and open-worked, this design offers a visual feast. The barrel, gear train, winding mechanism, escapement, and balance wheel bridges are all skeletonized, showcasing slender geometric shapes.
 
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Indeed, the variety and remarkable execution of finishes, both above and below – including polishing, beveled and recessed angles, frosting, engraving, satin finishes, and both matte and polished surfaces – elevate the movement’s spectacular symmetry.

Independence and artisanal savoir-faire

 The engineering prowess embodied by the Central Impulse Chronometer 39mm, which was entirely conceived and created at the Lederer Manufacture in Saint-Blaise by the shores of Lake Neuchâtel, is matched only by its exceptional finish. 

 Bernhard Lederer is one of the few independent watchmakers who has been able to build, over the years, a manufacturing enterprise that today counts over 25 collaborators. 

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This affords Lederer the freedom and autonomy to manufacture watches of exceptional quality, at the highest level of craftsmanship. Equipped with state-of-the-art CNC machines and other essential tools, every trade necessary for the creation of a complete wristwatch is represented and mastered within the Manufacture Lederer. Virtually all components are made in-house, including the watch hands, which are hand-crafted.

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A symbol of harmony and precision as well as a celebration of the blend between tradition and innovation, the Central Impulse Chronometer 39mm is a masterpiece by a dedicated and discreet watchmaker whose technical excellence and compelling design are underpinned by meticulous craftsmanship and exceptional finishes.  The Central Impulse Chronometer 39mm is available in white gold with a blue dial (galvanic treatment), and in rose gold with a dial in shades of gray. The two models are limited to a series of 20 pieces each.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Tribute to the Masters of Escapments

 Name: CENTRAL IMPULSE CHRONOMETER (CIC) 39MM

Version 1: white gold 18K

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References: 

  • CIC 9016.60.302 (white gold, blue dial) – limited series of 20 pieces
  • CIC 9016.50.303 (rose gold, gray dial) – Limited series of 20 pieces

Version 1: white gold 18K  

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Case:
18K white gold or 18K 5N rose gold
Diameter: 39mm
Thickness:
10.75mm
Case back: Open, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water Resistance: 3 ATM, 30 meters
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Movement
Mechanical with manual winding, dual impulse escapement
Number of components: 212
Number of jewels: 36 rubies
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz)

 Power reserve: 38 hours
Diameter: 35mm
Thickness: 4.95mm
Specific features: Two independent barrels
Two independent gear trains
Two constant-force mechanisms
Two independent escapement wheels
Winding and setting: Winding stem with two positions:
Position 1: manual winding
Position 2: time setting
Stop-seconds for time setting
Finishes: All component decorations by hand
Fine satin-finishing, top and bottom surface graining, bead blasting,
hand-polished and beveled edges, inner and outer angles, bridges,
main plate straight-grained and beveled by hand on the top and bottom surfaces,
mirror-polished steel components.
Strap
Black or brown leather, saddle-stitched

 🔴 Retail PriceCHF 136’800 (excluding VAT) 💰

🔰 Limited to only 20 pieces

First delivery : 2024


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BERNHARD LEDERER WATCHES
Contact us
Ewa Lederer, Sales International
Office time : 8.00 – 17.00
‭Tel. +41 32 552 17 10‬

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Bernhard-Lederer.com

Thursday, March 21, 2024

MIDO – Ocean Star GMT Special Edition


MIDOOCEAN STAR GMT 80th Anniversary Special Edition 2023

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  Warning: irresistible watch in sight!

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MIDO is celebrating the 80th anniversary of Ocean Star, its distinctive sports collection. A master in the art of reinvention, the Swiss watch brand is starting the festivities by releasing an irresistible special edition with a highly practical GMT function, and a host of vintage touches. 

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Naturally, it sports nautical colours, but with contrasting silver-coloured details such as the brand-new indexes shaped like... shark teeth! The timepiece comes with an interchangeable bracelet and strap for a sporty, urban and chic look, whatever the time zone.

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The unwavering reliability of the Ocean Star has made it a constant companion during the toughest marine challenges since its creation in 1944. Even in those days, MIDO was a pioneer in water-resistance, inventing the Aquadura system which first appeared in the 1930s

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To mark the 80th anniversary of this exceptional collection, the brand is reviving the spirit of the models of yesteryear with an Ocean Star watch equipped with the GMT function. 

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Its distinctive features include a unique navy blue and silver-coloured dial, enhanced with brand-new "shark teeth" indexes. Its incredible vintage charm includes several nods to the classics: its sapphire crystal (also known as "glassbox"), its 40.5 mm diameter (reminiscent of the modest dimensions of the era) and a multi-link bracelet in satin-finished and polished stainless steel.  

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MIDO has enhanced this retro yet contemporary look with cutting-edge materials: stainless steel, Super-LumiNova®, and an aluminium ring on the bidirectional rotating bezel. Thanks to this superb choice, the watch offers water-resistance up to 200 m (20 bars/660 ft), which is denoted, as ever, by the starfish symbol engraved on the back of the watch. 

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Combined with an anti-magnetic Nivachron™ balance spring, its automatic movement – the Caliber 80 – with a power reserve of up to 80 hours, delivers superior mechanical performance. Perfect for navigating the oceans.

The time at home... and wherever you roam!

With perfect legibility, the Ocean Star GMT displays two time zones for those who like to travel across land and sea. The model's diamond-cut hands indicate the hours and minutes, while the red varnished hand points to the second time zone on the flange.
 
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White Super-LumiNova® on each of the hands and the indexes serves to guide intrepid explorers, even in the dark. The navy blue dial on the Ocean Star GMT matches the blue of the aluminium ring on the polished, fluted bezel. Silver accents add sparkle to this nautical face: on the flange, on the bezel markings, and also around the even-numbered hour indexes, whose unusual shape is reminiscent of a shark's teeth. 
 
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Finally, its highly practical design also features the date in a window at 3 o'clock. This adventurer of the high seas is protected by a domed sapphire crystal of a similar volume to the Plexiglas crystal on the era's classic pieces.

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The case of the Ocean Star GMT is made from solid stainless steel, and its satin-finished and polished surfaces create subtle contrasts. Presented in an exclusive case, this MIDO special edition comes with an easily interchangeable multi-link satin-finished and polished stainless steel bracelet and a NATO-style navy blue strap with a grey centre line.

A resistant and reliable instrument


Globetrotters who need to be able to rely on their watch at all times will find everything they need on the Ocean Star GMT. Its screw-down crown and back make it even more resistant to the elements. 
 
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Its automatic mechanical movement – the Caliber 80 – provides ultra-reliable precision timekeeping thanks to its high-tech anti-magnetic Nivachron™ balance spring and its exceptional power reserve of up to 80 hours. MIDO has engraved the back of this special edition with a starfish: the emblem of this collection, now in its 80th year.
 
No swimming ban for this strong tempered special edition! The Ocean Star GMT is celebrating the 80th anniversary of a collection with an extraordinary history and exceptional performance.  

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS   

Model:   Ocean Star GMT

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Movement
Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (ETA C07.661 base), 11½’’’,
Ø 25.60 mm, height: 5.86 mm, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph,
Nivachron™ balance spring.
Finely decorated elaborate movement, oscillating weight decorated with Geneva Stripes and the MIDO logo.
 
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Functions:
HMSD + 24-hour GMT functions.
Adjusted in three different positions for optimal precision.
Power reserve of up to 80 hours.
Case
Satin-finished and polished stainless steel
Bidirectional rotating bezel with navy blue aluminum ring and silver-coloured markings (for even-numbered hour markers)
White Super-LumiNova® dot at 12 o'clock
diameter 40.5 mm, 2-part, "glassbox"-style sapphire crystal
Screw-down crown and case back featuring a starfish polished in relief and the serial number
Water-resistant up to a pressure of 20 bar (200 m/660 ft).
Lug-to-lug length: 46.99 mm
Weight (g): 167
Dial
Blue, with polished applique indexes highlighted with white Super-LumiNova®, date window at 3 o'clock.
Polished MIDO applique logo.
Silver-coloured flange indicating the odd-numbered hours.
Hands
Flat diamond-cut hour and minutes highlighted with white Super-LumiNova®.
Flat diamond-cut large seconds.
Varnished red hand for the second time zone, highlighted with white Super-LumiNova®.
Strap
Multi-link bracelet in satin-finished and polished stainless steel. Folding clasp with diving extension and engraved Mido logo.
Easily interchangeable additional strap: NATO-style in navy blue with grey centre line, featuring a pin buckle engraved with the MIDO logo.
 
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🔴 Price: $ 1,310  / 1.440,00 Euro incl. VAT💰

 

#Midowatches 
#OceanStar
#OceanStarGMT

#Midowatches #SpecialEdition #VintageWatchLovers

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Press Release - 2024
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Headquarter MIDO
Mido SA
Ch. Des Tourelles 17
2400 Le Locle
Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)32 933 35 11
Fax: +41 (0)32 933 35 00
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www.Midowatches.com