Thursday, December 21, 2023

Bernhard Lederer – CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer InVerto Edition

 

Bernhard LedererTribute to the Masters of Escapments CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer 'InVerto' 44 mm Limited Edition - 2023

For the first time since creating the Central Impulse Chronometer, 

independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer unveils a series 

in which the movement along with its ingenious invention is fully revealed on the dial side. 

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What was once only visible through the case-back is now entirely visible from the dial side. 

Except that the watch has no dial: all its mechanics are exposed, 

leaving no part hidden from view. Time can be read directly on the movement itself 

 

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 The piece exhibits an avant-garde character and remarkable symmetry, 

weaving a deep connection between the rich heritage of horology from which it draws its inspiration 

and Bernhard Lederer’s distinctly contemporary craftsmanship as an entirely independent artisan-watchmaker. 

 

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Together with his team of over 25 employees at his workshop in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland, 

Bernhard Lederer is one of the very few independent watchmakers to produce almost all components in-house, including the watch hands, which are handcrafted. 

 

True to the innovative spirit of each of his creations, Bernhard Lederer 

has designed a timepiece with a profoundly reimagined aesthetic 

A very limited series of only 18 pieces. 

 

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The Central Impulse Chronometer 'InVerto' series reveals Bernhard Lederers ingenious invention with a grand premiere: the mechanism has been turned over to present a front view from the dial side; allowing a full view of the movement’s ingenuity and architecture while the watch is worn.  
 

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What has traditionally been kept invisible at the back now takes center stage at the front. Instead of a dial, the entire mechanism is exposed, leaving no part concealed. Collectors of this exceptional creation will enjoy the experience of reading time directly off the movement. 
  
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Connoisseurs of Bernhard Lederer's craftsmanship will recognize his signature touch. His decades-long dedication to the art of watchmaking is driven by a passion for sharing the intricate workings of his creations with collectors. This enthusiasm for detailed mechanics, precise movements, and the 'beating hearts' of timepieces is vividly embodied in the Central Impulse Chronometer 'InVerto. 

The origins of the CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer

In 2020, the notably discreet Bernhard Lederer was once again thrust into the spotlight of the watchmaking scene. Highly esteemed by major collectors and known for his reserved nature, he unveiled a movement characterized by rare ingenuity. Building on the foundations first laid by Abraham-Louis Breguet and subsequently refined by George Daniels, Lederer’s movement represented a logical and innovative progression.  

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Breguet, Daniels, Lederer — three pioneers spanning the nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first centuries. Their collective narrative weaves through three centuries, culminating in a profound exploration of the heart of mechanical watches: the escapement.   

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Understanding the Central Impulse Chronometer is not a prerequisite to appreciating the uniqueness of the timepiece created for Only Watch 2023. However, delving into its foundational principles is worthwhile. Why? For over 400 years, the escapement has been the epicenter of watchmakers' pursuit of precision and smooth operation. 

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While the Swiss lever escapement dominates modern mechanical watches, leading some to consider the quest complete, Bernhard Lederer took a different path. He pursued Breguet's brilliant intuition, focusing on a bidirectional detent escapement, convinced of its superior efficiency.   

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A truly innovative solution

With the detent escapement, the impulse is transferred as directly as possible from the escape wheel to the balance wheel. Breguet, for his pocket watches, had devised a system of dual escapement wheels operating alternately – and therefore linked by a pair of additional, energy-hungry wheels.  

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Breguet’s innovation became known as the Échappement Naturel (French for Natural Escapement). A century and a half later, George Daniels revived this concept for his pocket watch masterpieces, notably the Space Traveller I and Space Traveller II. However, this escapement functioned at a low frequency of 2 Hz, ideal for pocket watches, and required a twist of the watch to initiate movement.  

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Bernhard Lederer’s ambition was to transpose the concept from the pocket to the wrist. He began by elevating the frequency of his escapement to 3 Hz, suitable for reliable wristwatch operation. Crucially, he engineered a solution where the geometry of the escapement wheels in fact ensures optimal chronometric performance under everyday conditions. Lederer’s patented invention positions the impulse transmission to the balance wheel along a central line, inspiring the name of his watch: Central Impulse Chronometer.

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Furthermore, Lederer also proved innovative by incorporating a constant force remontoire into his escapement design. This mechanism stores energy before the escapement, guaranteeing consistent energy release. The Central Impulse Chronometer features two such remontoires, each with its own gear train and barrel.

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This combination of two remontoires with the escapement is a first in watchmaking history. It yields remarkable chronometric precision and exceptional frequency stability, validated by the Besançon Observatory and the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).

The Central Impulse Chronometer, fully revealed. 

The InVerto series now showcases Lederer’s ingenious invention with an unprecedented feature: the mechanism, ingeniously rotated to provide a full frontal view, is entirely visible to the observer. Elements previously seen only from the case back are now prominently displayed at the front. 

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Replacing a traditional dial, the entire mechanism is unveiled, with no detail concealed from sight – this collector’s watch affords the unique experience of reading the time directly off the movement. Additionally, the caseback has been thoughtfully designed for customization, catering to those who seek a truly personalized piece.

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Those acquainted with Bernhard Lederer’s work will find this latest endeavor consistent with his legacy. His devotion to perfecting the art of horology over decades, especially in the domain of clocks, stems from a deep passion for unveiling the intricate workings of his creations to collectors. 

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This passion is not just for the mechanics but also for their movement and their pulsating heart. This enduring philosophy is elegantly echoed in the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto.

A monochromatic composition

 "Many enthusiasts had long expressed a desire for Bernhard Lederer to craft a variation of his Central Impulse Chronometer. Fulfilling this wish, Lederer's decision to invert the mechanism is a testament to his own deep-seated fascination with the beauty of mechanics. This choice is not just a response to external interest but a reflection of Lederer’s own enduring sensibility towards the art of watchmaking.

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This inversion results in a striking three-dimensional effect. The mechanism fills the space beneath the specially adapted convex sapphire crystal, presenting an architecture that exudes calm, order, and harmony.  

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This serene effect is cultivated by finishing the entire movement, including the bridges and mainplate, in black. At the same time, all of Bernhard Lederer's signature finishes find expression: satin, sandblasted, brushed surfaces, and, particularly, polished chamfers. In this unique timepiece, every detail is meticulously handcrafted, contributing to the monochromatic palette of reflections and textures.

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While the dual seconds hands, a hallmark of the Central Impulse Chronometer, are absent from the visible part, they are not forgotten in this new concept. True to his traditional craftsmanship, Lederer included a seconds hand on the back to enable COSC certification of the chronometer.

A team of 25: the force behind the CENTRAL IMPULSE Chronometer

Avant-garde character meets remarkable symmetry in a watch that forges an unexpected link between the watchmaking past and Bernhard Lederer's distinctly contemporary craftsmanship. As a fully independent and free artisan, Lederer brings a unique approach to this creation.

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The Central Impulse Chronometer was born in the Lederer Watches Manufacture, nestled between Neuchâtel and Bienne in Saint Blaise. Bernhard Lederer stands among the select few independent watchmakers who have developed their own production facilities over the years, now employing over 25 skilled individuals. 

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This autonomy allows the company to craft such exceptional watches, adhering to the highest quality standards. From the workbenches to the state-of-the-art CNC machines, every craft necessary for creating a complete wristwatch is represented and mastered in-house, including the crafting of the hands that immediately identify a Lederer watch.

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Ultimately, aligning with his commitment to innovation in each creation, Bernhard Lederer has crafted a timepiece with a profoundly reimagined aesthetic. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

A very exclusive series limited to just 18 pieces, the Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto embodies the legacy of innovation passed down by the pioneers of Haute Horlogerie, a legacy to which Bernhard Lederer is a proud heir. 

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  Tribute to the Masters of Escapments

Name:  CENTRAL IMPULSE CHRONOMETER InVerto

Reference:             CIC 9018 InVerto
 
Case:         Stainless steel, black DLC treatment
Diameter:             44 mm
Thickness:             12.2 mm

Caseback:             Open, sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Water resistance:     3 ATM (30 meters, 100 feet)
Dial:         Hour markers engraved inside the sapphire dome 
Functions:             Hours, minutes, seconds disc on the caseback
Movement:             Mechanical, hand-wound
Number of components:     212
Number of jewels:         45 jewels 
Frequency:             21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) 

Diameter:             39.3 mm
Thickness:             5.98 mm
Power reserve:         42 hours 

Special features:        Two independent barrels
  • Two independent gear trains
  • Two constant-force remontoires
  • Two independent escapement wheels
Winding & setting:         Two-position winding stem:
Position 1: manual winding
Position 2: setting the time
Balance stop during the setting of the time
Finishing:    Superlative hand finishes. The bridges are frosted and hand-beveled, the wheels feature circular graining and hand-beveled spokes, the stone settings are hand-polished, and the steel components are mirror-polished.
Strap:              Black leather, saddle-stitched by hand

Tuesday, December 19, 2023

IWC – AQUATIMER Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition

 

IWC Schaffhausen AQUATIMER Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Ceratanium® 49 mm Edition 2023

 IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN — IN COLLABORATION WITH WARNER BROS. PICTURES’AQUAMAN AND THE LOST KINGDOM PRESENTS AQUATIMER PERPETUAL CALENDAR DIGITAL DATE-MONTH

  Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Schaffhausen, December 19, 2023: IWC Schaffhausen has partnered with Warner Bros. Picture’s upcoming feature film, “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom,” to launch the Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, inspired by the red and blue glowing prop watches that the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied for the production of the highly-anticipated feature film sequel. This diver’s watch is presented in two versions, each limited to 25 pieces, and features imposing 49-millimeter Ceratanium® cases, black dials, and black rubber straps. One of them has red Super-LumiNova® on the dial, the hands, and the inner rotating bezel, and the other has blue. The technical features include a perpetual calendar with a digital date and month display, as well as a chronograph function. The IWC-manufactured 89802 caliber with a blackened component is visible through the sapphire crystal back.

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Anyone watching the upcoming Warner Bros. Picture’s action adventure “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom” (in theaters internationally December 20 and North America December 22) can expect to discover the finest engineering from Schaffhausen in the underwater universe. IWC’s experimental division XPL, which drives cutting-edge developments in areas like advanced materials or g-protection, has outfitted the villains Black Manta, played by Yahya Abdul-Mateen II, and Dr. Stephen Shin, played by Randall Park, with prop watches that glow brightly in red or blue. These prototypes have inspired two striking limited editions in the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer’s Aquatimer collection.

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The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is available in two versions, both with black dials and black hands. Inspired by the glow colors of the movie prop watches, the first one (Ref. IW379405) features red Super-LumiNova® on the dial, the hands, and the inner rotating bezel indicating the dive time, and the second one features blue (Ref. IW379406). Super- LumiNova® is a high-tech ceramic compound blended with luminous pigments that essentially behaves like a light storage battery, using a physical phenomenon called phosphorescence. 

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Light energy absorbed from sunlight or artificial light causes the electrons in the material to enter a higher energy state, where this energy is stored. When the electrons return to their normal state, they emit the absorbed energy as visible light, making the material glow brightly in the dark or under water. Both novelties feature cases, case back rings, crowns, and pushers made of IWC’s patented Ceratanium®. With case diameters of 49 millimeters, they are among the largest IWC watches ever produced.

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Ceratanium® is a performance material that combines the lightness and structural integrity of titanium with a hardness and scratch resistance similar to ceramic. It is based on a special titanium alloy forged to IWC’s specifications. The case components are machined from bars, finished by hand, and fired at extremely high temperatures in a kiln. During this heat treatment, the surface obtains properties similar to ceramic and also its characteristic color.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR WITH DIGITAL DATE AND MONTH DISPLAYS 

The main functional feature of these watches is the perpetual calendar with digital displays. The date and the month are shown with the help of rotating discs in a digital format on the dial, making it particularly easy and intuitive to read.   

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The perpetual calendar is mechanically programmed to automatically recognize the different lengths of the months and the leap years. As a result, the combination of “29” and “02” will appear only once every four years on the dial. The IWC-manufactured 89802 caliber drives the calendar complication via a single nightly switching impulse. The movement also offers a chronograph function, which displays the stopped hours and minutes combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock for better readability. 

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The double pawl winding system converts movements of the oscillating mass in both directions to energy for the mainspring, efficiently building up a power reserve of 68 hours. The rotor in a technical design has been blackened in an elaborate nickel-plating process and can be admired through the transparent sapphire glass case back.

IWC SAFEDIVE SYSTEM GUARANTEES SAFETY FOR DIVERS 

The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month features IWC’s external/internal rotating bezel system for setting the dive time, helping divers to keep track of their oxygen levels, and making sure they do not return to the surface too quickly. It combines the enhanced legibility of an inner bezel with the ease of use of an external rotating bezel. 

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The IWC SafeDive system prevents unintentional changes in the dive time, as the outer bezel can only be moved counterclockwise. Even if a diver accidentally moves the bezel, the dive time is never prolonged and the time after which they can return to the surface without the need for decompression stops is not exceeded. Like all Aquatimer models, it features the IWC bracelet quick-change system, enabling an easy exchange of the black rubber strap.

PRECISION IN MOTION

“Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom” is set in an alternate world that merges reality with fantasy, and every single detail needed to reflect that. Fittingly, the human characters, Black Manta and Dr. Stephen Shin, are the ones wearing the technical, underwater watches that respectively glow red and blue. The collaboration between IWC and “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom” combines horology and storytelling, highlighting the attention to detail that defines both watchmaking and cinematography. 

The “Behind the Scenes” video can be watched on YouTube

The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month is available through selected IWC boutiques. In addition, the watch is eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty, and comes with the My IWC Passport digital watch certificate.

ABOUT “AQUAMAN AND THE LOST KINGDOM” 

Director James Wan and Aquaman himself, Jason Momoa — along with Patrick Wilson, Amber Heard, Yahya Abdul-Mateen II and Nicole Kidman — return in the sequel to the highest-grossing DC movie of all time: “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom.” Having failed to defeat Aquaman the first time, Black Manta, still driven by the need to avenge his father’s death, will stop at nothing to take Aquaman down once and for all. This time Black Manta is more formidable than ever before, wielding the power of the mythic Black Trident,which unleashes an ancient and malevolent force. To defeat him, Aquaman will turn to his imprisoned brother Orm, the former King of Atlantis, to forge an unlikely alliance. Together, they must set aside their differences in order to protect their kingdom and save Aquaman’s family, and the world, from irreversible destruction.

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Directed by Wan, “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom” is produced by Peter Safran, Wan, and Rob Cowan. The executive producers are Galen Vaisman and Walter Hamada. The screenplay is by David Leslie Johnson- McGoldrick, from a story by James Wan & David Leslie Johnson-McGoldrick and Jason Momoa & Thomas Pa’a Sibbett, based on characters from DC, Aquaman created by Paul Norris and Mort Weisinger. Joining Wan behind the camera is his sterling team of “Aquaman” artisans: director of photography Don Burgess, production designer Bill Brzeski, editor Kirk Morri, composer Rupert Gregson-Williams and music supervisor is Michelle Silverman. Visual effects supervisor Nick Davis and costume designer Richard Sale also join.

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Warner Bros. Pictures Presents An Atomic Monster / A Peter Safran Production of A James Wan Film, “Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom,” set to open in theaters internationally beginning December 20, 2023 and in North America on December 22, 2023; it will be distributed worldwide by Warner Bros. Pictures.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 
Collection: AQUATIMER  
 
Model  AQUATIMER Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition

Ref.  IW379405 / Ref. IW379406 Ceratanium® 
 

 FEATURES 
Mechanical chronograph movement
– Perpetual calendar
– Large double-digit displays for both the date and the month
– Stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds
– Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
– Flyback function
– Small hacking seconds
– Mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with IWC SafeDive System
– Luminescent elements on hands, dial, and internal rotating bezel
– Screw-in crown – See-through sapphire glass back
– IWC-bracelet quick-change system
Limited to 25 pieces each


MOVEMENT
IWC manufacture calibre 89802
Frequency 28,800 vph/4 Hz
Jewels 51
Power reserve 68
h
Components 474
Winding Automatic
WATCH
  • Ref. IW379405: Ceratanium® case and case back ring, black dial with
    red luminescence, black hands with red luminescence, black rubber strap
    with Ceratanium® pin buckle
  • Ref. IW379406: Ceratanium® case and case back ring, black dial with
    blue luminescence, black hands with blue luminescence, black rubber
    strap with Ceratanium® pin buckle
Diameter 49.00 mm
Height  19.50 mm
Ceratanium® case
Mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with IWC SafeDive System 
Internal rotating bezel – Screw-in crown – 
See-through sapphire glass back
Glass Sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides 
Water-resistant 10 bar  
DIAL  
  • Red dial, Luminescent elements on hands, dial red Super-LumiNova®
  • Blue dial, Luminescent elements on hands, dial blue Super-LumiNova®

Strap
IWC-bracelet quick-change system black rubber straps with Ceratanium® pin buckle.

 🔰 Limited edition of 25 pieces
🔴 PRICE  World Price  $ 57,600 US 💰
 
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Press releases - 2023
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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