Monday, September 18, 2023

Czapek - Place Vendome Complicite Editions


Czapek & Cie.Place Vendôme Complicité – “Courage Every Second” 2023 

 PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITÉ
Two friends, two hearts, one watch

Geneva 2023 – Czapek & Cie unveils Place Vendôme Complicité, a unique reinterpretation of a double escapement combination initially created in 1930 and very rare in wristwatches. Two independent oscillators beat at their own pace, with any rate variations balanced by a differential at 12 o’clock, all beautifully laid out on the dial side.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The design of the Place Vendôme Complicité is as much the result of a chance encounter, a coincidence (do they really exist?), as it is a technical and artistic feat. Human encounters and the sharing of ideas lie at the heart of everything that Czapek does. As a fundamental value, the Maison defends the concept of établissage – the ecosystem of specialised workshops that once defined the entire watchmaking industry; this enables it to choose the most talented, independent specialists in each of the watchmaking crafts, bringing them together – as a conductor would unite musicians in an orchestra – to create exceptional timepieces. 

For Czapek, suppliers are also partners in creativity and this turned out to be decisive in Place Vendôme Complicité ever becoming a reality.

In Pursuit of Beauty

The idea for the watch was born in 2018 as an evolution of Czapek’s renowned initial models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme; the movement architecture of those pieces translates into a distinctive Czapek ‘face’ with sub-dials at the 7.30 and 4.30 positions on the dial.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

While the technical aspect of the double escapement concept fully visible on the dial side and distributed around the centre was fascinating to Czapek’s CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel – and the group of ‘rare people’ who make up the Maison’s inner circle of collectors, investors and enthusiasts – it’s a guiding principle of Czapek that the beauty of a mechanism is as important as the beauty of the habillage – the dial, hands and case. Consequently, the architecture of every Czapek calibre is designed to unite the technical and aesthetic elements, serving and enhancing both in equal measure.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The starting point for Complicité was to respect the dial layout of the original Place Vendôme model – on which the two signature sub-dials form the base of a pyramid, completed by a third sub-dial at the apex. An initial sketch was then designed: the escapements would be at 7.30 and 4.30 and the differential that connects them would be at the 12.00 position, with both escapement trains embracing the centre.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

“The real beauty of the idea lies in this way of expressing the double escapement, with the differential at 12 o’clock as a central element,” explains Xavier de Roquemaurel. “And by bringing the mechanism to the dial side and open-working everything, we would also have a beautiful kinetic sculpture.”

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

However, building such a movement was easier said than done; after a fruitless search for a watchmaking partner capable of reconciling the aesthetics with the technical demands, the idea was eventually put to one side. And then, one day, a story of family and friendship brought it back to life. Paul, one of Xavier’s children, was in the same school class in Neuchâtel as the daughter of watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, and a mutual friend introduced the two fathers. Their encounter led to a friendship, mutual exchanges of ideas, advice and help and, ultimately, resolved the problem, made the new double escapement architecture possible and gave birth to the watch.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The name of the new timepiece, Place Vendôme Complicité alludes to this collaboration – as well as to the complicity between two independent escapements working in unison.

Aesthetics and Sophisticated Mechanics: an Unbreakable Bond

The principle of the double escapement regulator is that, with two balance wheels beating independently, and power delivered from a single barrel via a differential, any variation in rate (which may be caused by gravity or various other factors inherent in everyday life) will be cancelled out, thus ensuring greater timekeeping accuracy.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

With the double escapement at its heart, Czapek’s new in-house Calibre 8 is manually wound to provide a power reserve of 72 hours, which is indicated on the dial at 6 o’clock between the balance wheels. Two sapphire bridges reveal the entire gear train on the dial side, protected by a box-style sapphire crystal glass.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Dominated by distinctive, triangular bridges from which the balances are suspended, the aesthetic blends modernity with tradition, playing with the colours of different metals of various components while drawing the eye deep into the workings of the movement. Naturally, haute horlogerie finishes abound, with traditional handcrafts complemented by more contemporary decorative finishes – not only on the dial side but also on the back of the movement, where 18 inward angles have been hand-bevelled.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The crown wheel mechanism – a hidden signature of Bernhard Lederer – is integrated into the movement design as a subtle tribute to his contribution to the development of Complicité.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

As a backdrop to the movement, two dial colours are offered: cool tones of grey that create a subtle harmony with a white gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust, and a bolder combination that epitomises Czapek’s more adventurous spirit: deep sapphire blue in a rose gold case for the Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue. The satin-brushing of the flange and index ring contrasts with the matte grainé surface of the baseplate.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Adding contemporary style, the hands are sword-shaped and open-worked, so as not to obstruct the view of the mechanism, and their shape is echoed by the applied hour markers. All are plated in gold to match the case material and tipped with luminescent coating to enhance legibility in low light conditions. In true Czapek style, some almost-hidden details have been added purely for aesthetic effect; for example, looking deep into the movement reveals that the post on which the hands are mounted has been open-worked to create a tiny ‘arcade des heures’ (arcade of the hours).

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Inspired by the cases of Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, the case – a relatively compact and very wearable 41.8mm diameter – is a distillation of Czapek’s signature iconography, with sharper lines adding contemporary flair. The eye is caught by a dynamic tension between the flowing curves of the case sides and the crisp angles of the deep recesses on the sides of the lugs, the play of light and shadow amplified by a mix of brushed and polished surfaces. Completing the ensemble, an alligator strap that matches or closely complements the colour of each dial is fastened with a gold folding clasp.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

“Our vision at Czapek is to be at the forefront of the evolution of modern Haute Horlogerie, projecting watchmaking’s heritage into the future,” says Xavier de Roquemaurel. “The connection with the past remains fundamental but we are expressing it in new ways – with the Place Vendôme Complicité being just the latest example of this philosophy” – a philosophy that is underpinned by the values of precision, creativity, openness, collaboration and the love of beauty.

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The first two models of the Place Vendôme Complicité will be offered in limited editions of 50 pieces per iteration.

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About Czapek & Cie
 

François Czapek was a Czech-born Polish watchmaker who fled to Geneva in 1832 after fighting in the Polish uprising. He immediately started his own atelier and in 1839 entered into a partnership with Antoine Norbert de Patek, introducing him to the world of watchmaking. In 1845, at the end of their partnership, he created Czapek & Cie and achieved considerable success. He became the official watchmaker of Napoleon III and opened, what was most likely the first watchmaking boutique on the Place Vendome in Paris

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

He wrote a book about watchmaking, but unfortunately, he died before publishing a second one. Czapek & Cie has been revived in 2015 with an exceptional collection, whose leading model won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva in November 2016. This collection takes its inspiration from an 1850’s Czapek time piece. It features a beautiful enamel dial and a 7-day proprietary movement perfectly combining craftsmanship with design and exclusivity with rarity. The Company second collection, a suspended Tourbillon with a second time-zone, was launched one year later in 2017, while the first Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The company is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.

#wecollectrarepeople

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model name:  Place Vendôme Complicité Harmony Blue

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  • Open-work double-escapement with differential gearing at 12 o'clock.  
  • Created with the 'Complicité' of Bernhard Lederer.
  • Limited edition of 50 pieces.


FUNCTIONS

· Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator
MOVEMENT
· Calibre 8
created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
· Number of parts: 293
· Open-work
· Double escapement with differential gearing and central second
· Power-reserve: 72 hours
· Frequency: 3Hz - 21,600 VpH

· Two variable inertia balance wheels oscillating in opposite directions, with four adjusment screws and four weights
· Balance springs with Breguet terminal curves
· Two Sapphire bridgeswith six rubies setin gold chatons
FINISH
· Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
· 18 inward angles hand-chamfered
CASE
· 18K 5N Rose gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-outlugs
· Crown protectors
· Diameter: 41,8 mm
· Lug to lug: 48.22 mm

· Height with lugs:14,8 mm
· Height on wrist:13.3 mm
· Perceived height (without glass): 8,8 mm
· Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
· Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
DIAL
· Open-worked with double escapement on a 'Grainé' main plate with blue galvanic treatment
· Circular-grained minutes and hourstrack
· Partially skeletonized sword hands
· Faceted mirror-polished indexes in 5N rose gold
BRACELET
· Alligator strap with 18K 5N rose gold folding buckle

🔴INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE without tax
· CHF 85'000 or $ 100'000 or € 89'000 or £ 77'300

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model name:  Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

  • Open-work double-escapement with differential gearing at 12 o'clock. 
  •  Created with the 'Complicité' of Bernhard Lederer.
  • Limited edition of 50 pieces.


FUNCTIONS

· Hours, Minutes, Seconds & Power reserve indicator
MOVEMENT
· Calibre 8 created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer
· Number of parts: 293
· Open-work
· Double escapement with differential gearing and central second
· Power-reserve: 72 hours
· Frequency: 3Hz - 21,600 VpH

· Two variable inertia balance wheels oscillating in opposite directions, with four adjusment screws and four weights
· Balance springs with Breguet terminal curves
· Two Sapphire bridgeswith six rubies setin gold chatons
FINISH
· Hand-beveling on bridges and main plate
· 18 inward angles hand-chamfered
CASE
· 18K white gold case with domed sapphire and sandblasted hollowed-outlugs
· Crown protectors
· Diameter: 41,8 mm
· Lug to lug: 48.22 mm

· Height with lugs:14,8 mm
· Height on wrist:13.3 mm
· Perceived height (without glass): 8,8 mm
· Sapphire glass with double anti-reflective treatment
· Water-resistance: 50m (5 atm)
DIAL
· Open-worked with double escapement on a 'Grainé' main plate with silver galvanic treatment
· Circular-grained minutes and hourstrack
· Partially skeletonized sword hands
· Faceted mirror-polished indexes in white gold
BRACELET
· Alligator strap with 18K white gold folding buckle

🔴INTERNATIONAL RETAIL PRICE withouttax
· CHF 85'000 or $ 100'000 or € 89'000 or £ 77'300

🔰Edition
Limitation: of 50 pieces

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Press Release - 2023
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | jane@czapek.com (UK)

Tel.  +41 79 314 08 54
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Czapek.com

Friday, September 15, 2023

IWC – BIG PILOT’s Watch AMG G 63 Editions

 

IWC SchaffhausenBIG PILOT’s Watch  AMG G 63  Special Editions 2023

 IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN UNVEILS TWO SPECIAL EDITION BIG PILOT’S WATCHES INSPIRED BY THE G-CLASS

Schaffhausen, 14th September 2023: Maximum robustness and performance, a utilitarian heritage and design cues that have proved stronger than time: these characteristics are at the root of the sustained success and popularity of the G-Class from Mercedes-Benz and the Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC Schaffhausen. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now launches two special Big Pilot’s Watch editions to celebrate these modern design icons. While echoing signature G-Class design features such as the headlights or the spare wheel cover,  they are both made from extremely robust and resilient case materials. One features a case and crown of 18-carat Armor Gold®; the second is IWC’s first timepiece with a ceramic matrix composite (CMC) case.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC Schaffhausen and the G-Class from Mercedes-Benz share a similar history and are deeply rooted in a utilitarian legacy. Both were initially developed to meet purely functional criteria – one to be easy to read and highly robust, the other to offer uncompromising offroad capabilities. Over the years, they have retained their utilitarian beginnings and evolved into modern design icons at the same time. After nearly 20 years of partnership with Mercedes-AMG, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer now celebrates these icons with two striking special editions of the Big Pilot’s Watch.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 (Ref. IW501201) boasts a case and crown made of 18-carat Armor Gold®, a black dial and a black rubber strap with microfibre inlay. The black and gold colour code is inspired by the exterior paintwork and interior finishing of the recently launched Mercedes-AMG G 63 “Grand Edition”. Armor Gold® is an innovative alloy that elevates the hardness values of gold to a whole new level and makes this comparatively soft, precious metal much more resistant to external influences. 
 
Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Thanks to an improved microstructure, this special alloy is significantly harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold. The combination of sand-blasted surfaces and polished edges lends this Big Pilot’s Watch a classy, contemporary character.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 (Ref. IW506201) is the first IWC timepiece to feature a ceramic matrix composite (CMC) case, engineered in close collaboration with the German Aerospace Center (DLR). Unlike conventional carbon fibre-reinforced polymers, the fibres of this composite material are embedded in a matrix of ceramic rather than polymer. Therefore, CMC components are extremely damage-tolerant. Because they are also insensitive to thermal shocks, they are the material of choice for applications with extremely high requirements in terms of lightness, strength, and temperature resistance – from aerospace to the manufacturing of brake discs for sports and luxury cars.

A HIGHLY COMPLEX MANUFACTURING PROCESS

The starting point for manufacturing a CMC watch case is a conventional carbon-fibre reinforced polymer. In a heat treatment called pyrolysis, lasting several days, the polymer matrix is converted to carbon, leaving behind a dense weave of fibres embedded in a porous carbon matrix. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Subsequently, silicon crystals are placed on top of the component, and everything is heated in an oven. During this so-called siliconisation, silicon is pulled into the cavities and chemically reacts with the carbon, forming a new matrix made of silicon carbide ceramic. After finishing with diamond tools, the CMC cases exhibit a matte black colour and a unique structure determined by the fibres, making each piece truly unique.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

    “The manufacturing process for this lightweight and strong material is extremely complex. To achieve perfect quality, we had to overcome countless challenges – from selecting the right raw materials for the fibres and the matrix to defining the exact parameters for the different steps of the process. With its first CMC watch case, IWC again demonstrates its expertise in engineering advanced material solutions.”
Lorenz Brunner, Department Manager Research and Innovation at IWC Schaffhausen

REVISITING SIGNATURE G-CLASS DESIGN CUES

In addition to the Big Pilot’s characteristic power reserve display at 3 o’clock, both new editions feature a small second counter at 9 o’clock. The opposing subdials with external white rings imitate the typical headlights on the front side of the G-Class. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  .

The black dials are embossed with a relief-like technical structure inspired by the air intakes of Mercedes-AMG performance cars. Unlike the classic Big Pilot’s Watch, which has printed numerals and indices, these special editions feature appliques that have been PVD-coated in black and filled with luminous material.
Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

HIGH-END IWC-MANUFACTURED MOVEMENT INSIDE

Both versions of the Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 are powered by the IWC-manufactured 52010 calibre, a highly robust and precise automatic movement. Parts of the winding system that are subject to particularly high stress are manufactured from virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Developed by IWC’s former Technical Director Albert Pellaton during the 1940s, the ingenious self-winding mechanism uses even the smallest movements of the rotor in both directions to build up a power reserve of seven days in two barrels..The movements are visible through tinted sapphire glass back, which feature a Mercedes-Benz star and are reminiscent of the spare wheel cover on the backside of the G-Class.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

The Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 editions in 18-carat Armor Gold® and in CMC are available through IWC boutiques or online at IWC.com. In addition, the timepieces are eligible for registration under the My IWC care program, benefitting from a 6-year extension to the standard 2-year International Limited Warranty.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICITIES

Collection : BIG PILOT’s Watch

 Model   BIG PILOT’s Watch AMG G 63 Armor Gold® Edition

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Ref  IW501201

FEATURES
  •  Mechanical movement 
  • – Pellaton automatic winding system
  • – Power reserve display
  •  - Date display 
  • – Small hacking seconds
  • – See-through sapphire glass back
  • – Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured Automatic calibre 52010
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
164 Components
Jewels:    31
Power reserve:   7 days (168 h)
Winding:    Automatic
DIAL
Textured black dial, black hands with beige Super-LumiNova®
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date. Power reserve display
WATCH
Materials:  18-carat Armor Gold® case, case back ring and crown
Diameter:   46.2 mm
Height:    14.40 mm
Crown:  Screw-locked
Glass:    Sapphire,  convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 10 bar
STRAP:
Black rubber strap with microfiber inlay, gold folding clasp
Strap width 22 mm
 
🔴PRICE - Excl. Sales Tax US
$ 33,400.00 ~💰

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 Model   BIG PILOT’s Watch AMG G 63 Ceramic Matrix Composite CMC® Edition

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Ref  IW506201

FEATURES
  •  Mechanical movement 
  • – Pellaton automatic winding system
  • – Power reserve display
  •  - Date display 
  • – Small hacking seconds
  • – See-through sapphire glass back
  • – Glass secured against displacement by drops in air pressure
MOVEMENT
IWC-manufactured Automatic calibre 52010
Côtes de Genève, perlage
Frequency:    28,800 A/h | 4 Hz
164 Components
Jewels:    31
Power reserve:   7 days (168 h)
Winding:    Automatic
DIAL
Textured black dial, black hands with Super-LumiNova®
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date. Power reserve display
WATCH
Materials:  Ceramic matrix composite (CMC) case, Ceratanium® case, case back ring and crown
Diameter:   46.5 mm
Height:    14.60 mm
Crown:  Screw-locked
Glass:    Sapphire,  convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 10 bar
STRAP:
Black rubber strap with microfiber inlay, stainless steel PVD-coated in black folding clasp
Strap width 22 mm 

 🔴PRICE - Excl. Sales Tax US $ 42,000.00 ~💰

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Press releases - 2023
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 IWC Schaffhausen
Uwe Liebminger
Department Manager Public Relations
Mobile  +41 (0)79 957 72 52
E-mail  uwe.liebminger@iwc.com
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