Friday, August 18, 2023

BIANCHET – Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 Edition

 

BIANCHETTOURBILLON Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 Carbon/Titanium Edition 2023

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A subtle blend of ultramodern style and timeless design, Bianchet’s new flying tourbillon will be showcased at the “Geneva Watch Days” exhibition, from 29 August to 2 September, and presented in the Bianchet Suite at the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva.

When contemporary watchmaking meets
the timeless design principles of the Golden Ratio 1.618

An unusual combination of age-old construction principles and ultramodern watchmaking style, the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 is the expression of transparency, pure lines and high-tech spirit, meant to seduce lovers of prestigious grand complication timepieces.

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Swiss watchmaker Bianchet, creator of tourbillon watches whose contemporary style is imbued with timeless design principles, is asserting its passion for horological complications with the new Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618. The aesthetic sensibility of Bianchet, inspired by age-old construction principles and Italian design, is recognisable from the pure lines of its refined tonneau case, and the construction of its in-house-developed skeleton movement, whose proportions respect those of the golden ratio of 1.618. With its two horology complications, this watch expresses refinement, strength and natural balance, in a resolutely contemporary trend of style and materials.

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Driven by a passion for design and a rich Italian heritage, the founders of Bianchet put the pursuit of beauty at the heart of the brand's creative universe. An uncompromising quest for aesthetic perfection down to the smallest detail. The Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 is a sensory, cultural and mechanical horological creation, conceived and designed according to the mathematical principles of the Golden Ratio and the Fibonacci sequence, that underlie the beauty of the universe.

Perfect Proportions

By applying thousand year-old design principles deriving from the iconic geometric ratio 1.618, which has been used in the most harmonious compositions in art, architecture and music for centuries, Bianchet infuses perfect proportions into ultramodern timepieces.  

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For the sake of harmony, the two complications of the new Bianchet calibre are perfectly positioned according to the golden triangles used to design the movement, while the architecture of the bridges originates at the central point of the tourbillon cage to follow the curves dictated by the Fibonacci spiral. The back bridges for their part, form concentric golden circles, whose diameters respect the ratio of 1.618, while key elements of the movement front, including the tourbillon cage, the hour wheel and the big date, are positioned according to the geometric rules of the golden circles. This unique construction, which combines symmetry and asymmetry, gives the Bianchet B1.618 movement all its personality, depth and balance.

Sporty Elegance

Invented by Cartier in 1906, the tonneau case was conceived to be both elegant and comfortable. A very innovative shape at the time, it still represents the epitome of class and sophistication. By adding pure lines and harmonious proportions underlined by refined colour accents, Bianchet creates a watch that is both sophisticated and sporty.

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One of the few tonneau-shaped carbon watches capable of withstanding a pressure of 10 ATM (100 metres of water depth) and shocks of 5000G, the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 has been designed to be versatile, and can be endorsed during sports and water activities.

The lightness of the cutting-edge material, the softness of the natural vulcanised rubber, combined with the perfect and sensual curves of the case, create a unique tactile experience.

High-Tech Preciousness

Crafted from Titanium-Dust-High-Density-Carbon, an exclusive composite of carbon fibres infused with titanium powder, the case of the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 combines the performance of a highly resistant and light material, with the preciousness of a noble metal.

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Adding to the high density of the composite, which is made of circa 500 compressed layers of 0.03 mm thick carbon fibres, the titanium powder is infused between every two layers, bringing light and subtle reflections to this cutting-edge material.

The orientation of the carbon fibres, arranged following variations of 45 and 90 degrees between the layers, allows to achieve an isotropic material structure that is extremely homogeneous, dense and resistant, while offering aesthetically pleasing patterns enhanced by the titanium particles.

A streamlined tonneau case

The sleek, unadorned bezel of the new Bianchet flying tourbillon watch blends seamlessly with the case middle, following its curves down to its discreet lugs, which give the case its chic and elegant look. The caseback, also in perfect continuity with the bezel and middle, adds balance and finesse to the case with its fluid and flowing shapes, whose balance is dictated by the proportions of the golden ratio.

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Only the presence of the coloured rubber gaskets makes it possible to identify the boundaries of each element of the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 case, so harmonious are its curves. This construction, that is both pleasant to the eyes and to the touch, is subtly underlined by two strokes of colour, giving personality to this tonneau case, which was created with purity, harmony and a sensory experience in mind.

"A watch must arouse the senses and emotions. The sound of the movement ticking, the visual magic of the flying tourbillon and the tactile experience provided by the case materials are all elements we work on to create a unique sensation," explains Emmanuelle Festa Bianchet, co-founder of Bianchet.

Manufacture movement in titanium

Pursuing their passion for the tourbillon mechanism, the founders of Bianchet embraced the vaulting challenge of developing their own flying tourbillon movement, which bridges and tourbillon cage are entirely made in titanium, with the addition of an openworked big date. The transparency of the skeleton construction and the hand-made finishing reveal the refinement of the architecture, while giving life to the soul of the movement.

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The tourbillon mechanism, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795 to defy the force of gravity, is considered one of the most prestigious complications in Haute Horlogerie. Bianchet’s flying tourbillon movement rotates with a precision of -4+4 seconds per day, without any bridge obstructing the beauty of this fascinating piece of mechanical engineering. As if suspended in mid-air, the titanium tourbillon cage, which bears the Bianchet signature, has been designed to defy gravity in style.

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howcasing a perpetual motion, like floating at the heart of the openwork architecture, the Bianchet flying tourbillon mechanism is mounted on ball bearings, which give it fluid rotation and unequalled precision. The adjustment of the movement in six positions further enhances the accuracy of the watch, regardless of the position in which it is laying.
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Revealing the intricacies of the calendar function, the fully skeletonised Big Date complication of the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B 1.618 movement displays the date in a format that is both easy to read and aesthetically minimalist. A simple colour accent on the aperture identifies the current date, without detracting from the mechanical subtlety of the two discs that rotate in time with the days. Bianchet chose to adapt the big date complication, invented by Lange & Söhne in 1994, in a contemporary and essential style, revealing its mechanical ingenuity.

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Two suspended flanges supporting Superluminova blocks, which recall the hour indicators made in the same high-tech material, are placed symmetrically on both sides of the openwork dial. Already present in Bianchet Tourbillon B1.618 Openwork model, they give the movement a distinctive touch, while playing with light, depth and transparency to create a modern and sculptural architecture.

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Entirely made in Switzerland and assembled in the Bianchet workshop in La-Chaux-De-Fonds, the calibre of the Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 is ennobled by hand finishing, which sublimates the beauty of its components. Particularly difficult to achieve on titanium, hand-bevelling, which is guided by the craftsman's hand, gives life to  the contours of the bridges, reveals the shapes and adds sparkle to the winding parts.

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Various finishing techniques add light and changing reflections to the geometry of the arches and enhance the sophisticated architecture of the movement, while leading the eye towards the transparency and subtleties of this double-complication watchmaking mechanism.

"By creating our own movement, we have taken up an important challenge aimed at building a Bianchet legacy of increasingly fascinating tourbillon watches, created for lovers of Grand Complications and unique watchmaking experience," says Rodolfo Festa Bianchet, founder and CEO of Bianchet.

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A blend of ultramodern spirit and classical heritage, the "Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618" represents the meeting of opposites. Through the unusual encounter between high-tech and noble materials, fine watchmaking techniques, and age-old design principles, Bianchet gives birth to a new paradigm in contemporary watchmaking, full of singular emotions and unparalleled sensations.

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The "Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618" watch will be produced in only 200 pieces in 2023, Bianchet offering its customers a choice of eight colour variations.

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About Bianchet 
 
Bianchet embodies the singular union of ultramodern style and a classic design heritage in Haute Horlogerie. The relationship between meaning and culture, mathematics and mechanics is at the heart of Bianchet's thinking, which is to infuse the Golden Ratio 1.618 and transpose the mathematical proportions underlying the harmony and beauty of the universe into the world of modern fine watchmaking.
 
This approach to contemporary Haute Horlogerie finds expression in Bianchet tourbillon watches. The sleek tonneau shape, the exclusive design of the in-house-developed calibre, the Italian aesthetic, the choice of high-tech materials, titanium and rubber, the dynamic use of materials, shapes, textures and colours - everything about Bianchet watches and the Bianchet spirit expresses passion, beauty and modernity.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model name:  Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618 Edition

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Manual wound Flying Tourbillon with Big Date complication
Power Reserve: 90 hours (+/- 5%)
Water resistance: 10 ATM (100 metres)
Weight: 55 grams (excluding strap)
Swiss Made
Guarantee: 5 years


MOVEMENT
Flying tourbillon 60 seconds
Tourbillon cage in titanium, mounted on ball bearings
Adapted to 6 positions.
Frequency: 3hz - 21’600 vibrations/hour
Skeletonized Grande Date complication.
Titanium main plate and bridges.
Non-magnetic tourbillon cage.
Balance wheel with variable inertia.

Finishing:

Hand-finished.
Hand beveling on titanium bridges and tourbillon cage.
Sand-blasting, satin-brushing on plates and bridges.
Lacquer applied by hand on crown, tourbillon cap, and big date.

Manufacturing Partners:

  • Inhotech
  • Precision Engineering
  • Feller
  • Crelier
  • Goldec
  • Bandi
  • AE Decolletages
  • Ultradec
  • Protofil
  • CMT Rickenbach
  • Quickparts
  • GMG

CASE
Materials
Carbon Version: Titanium-Dust-High-Density carbon
Crown in grade 5 titanium.
Natural vulcanised rubber.
Hybrid Version: Bezel & back in grade 5 titanium. Middle case in  Titanium-Dust-High-Density carbon
Crown in grade 5 titanium.
Natural vulcanised rubber.
Finishing
Case finished by hand.
Hand polished crown.
Lacquer applied by hand.
Glass: Sapphire crystal on bezel and back with glare-proof treatment on both sides
Dimensions: W: 43 mm L: 51 mm H: 14.35 mm
STRAP
Natural vulcanised rubber
Titanium folding clasp

🔰Limited Edition ✅ Only 200 Pieces

🔴 Price: upon request 💰
 

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BIANCHET SA
Rue de la Promenade Noire 1
2000 Neuchâtel
Switzerland
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www.Bianchet.com

Thursday, August 17, 2023

KURONO – COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’


KURONO Tokyo THE COMPLICATIONS SERIES Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ 38mm 2023 

 OVERVIEW

The Kurono Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ is a triple calendar complication that achieved finalist recognition at the GPHG Awards 2022. It will be the final edition of the Calendrier Type I model which will be discontinued after this run. As a complete calendar, 'Azuki' is one of our most complicated models from a horological perspective. 

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Significant effort was put into achieving the deep maroon color of the dial, including using phosphor-bronze* as a dial material for the first time. (*phosphor-bronze is multitudes harder to machine than the more commonly used brass.) Also unique for this final run of the Calendrier Type I, 'Azuki's' hour markers are further finished in off-white to provide a perfect contrast to its vintage maroon dial color.

INSPIRATION

Hajime Asaoka wanted to achieve a color that harked back to cars of the past, where maroon was a popular standard color. In Japan, that car color is more commonly designated as 'azuki' (tr: 'red bean') hence the nickname for the watch.

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"I think the last Japanese car to have a maroon color was the Datsun 240Z. I don't know if this color was exported, but in Japan, the Datsun 240Z was associated with maroon. I personally like the maroon color very much. However, it is a very difficult color to paint on a watch face. For a deep maroon color, it is necessary to add a dye to the pigment. This requires a thicker coating of paint. This is no problem for a car body, but very difficult for a watch face."

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"This is why you hardly ever see a (deep) maroon watch face."

"This time, as usual, I mixed the maroon myself and gave it to the dial maker as a color sample. The coating was quite thick. I wondered if the dial maker would be able to finish the color the way I wanted. After a while, the dial maker sent me the sample. The person in charge of the project said that he had gone through a lot of trouble, but the finished dial was superb. The sample I sent was painted on a white plastic plate, but by using a reddish "phosphor bronze" material for the dial itself, they were able to achieve a deep color tone while reducing the coating film. Of course, great care was also taken in the color mixing of the paint itself." ~ Hajime Asaoka

DETAIL

Dial


Azuki's dial enhances the "beauty of symmetry" that is a component of the Art Deco style. The cylinder dial is designed to curve from the center to the outer edge of the dial, and two dial layers are pressed together to create a three -dimensional effect. 
 
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The numerals themselves - this time colored in off-white for this anniversary - are also purposefully printed in a raised format. To achieve its unique deep-maroon color, the dial is made from phosphor-bronze for the first time.

Case

The case is made of forged 316L stainless steel. It is newly designed to fit the coin-edged bezel, but keeps the iconic Kurono case DNA. The case sides are mirror -finished. The mirror finish is free from distortion, so much so that exterior reflections are beautifully portrayed. 
 
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Also, when viewed from the side, the mirror finish and the coin-edge bezel can be seen to stand out in their respective finishes. Water resistance has been increased to 5 ATM. The case-back is finished with a circular lettering design, as seen on vintage watches.

Sapphire crystal

The scratch-resistant box sapphire crystal is raised like the acrylic glass of a vintage watch. 
 
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Designed for the Calendrier 'Type I', its shape is 0.15 mm higher than that of an ordinary sapphire box crystal.

Unique Hand-bent Hands

The combination of high- polish leaf hands for the hour and minute hands with modern hands is a typical Kurono design. The hour and minute hands are curved at both ends, and are paired with a counterweighted second hand that is very thin. The tips of the second and minute hands are bent by hand.

Movement

Miyota 9122
- a Japan-made movement - is used. It is a rare movement with "center seconds and full calendar," which is uncommon in current Swiss-made mass-produced ebauches. 
 
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Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: The COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier Azuki

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Case 
316L high-polished stainless steel case
Diameter 38mm 
Thickness 10mm (11.5mm incl sapphire)
Unique box sapphire glass 
Solid caseback
Movement
Japan-made cal.9122 triple calendar complication movement
Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.
Power reserve 40 hours
Complications: full/triple calendar (month, day, date)
Dial 
Phosphor-bronze dial base
Strap
Calf leather strap
Widths: 20mm at lugs, 16mm at buckle
Made in Japan  🇯🇵

AVAILABILITY   ⚠️ SOLD OUT
It will be available for purchase on Friday, 26 May 2023, and there will be 2 order windows.
Deliveries start from End June through August 2023

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Press release - 2023
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🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com