Thursday, August 17, 2023

KURONO – COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’


KURONO Tokyo THE COMPLICATIONS SERIES Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ 38mm 2023 

 OVERVIEW

The Kurono Anniversary Calendrier ‘Azuki’ is a triple calendar complication that achieved finalist recognition at the GPHG Awards 2022. It will be the final edition of the Calendrier Type I model which will be discontinued after this run. As a complete calendar, 'Azuki' is one of our most complicated models from a horological perspective. 

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Significant effort was put into achieving the deep maroon color of the dial, including using phosphor-bronze* as a dial material for the first time. (*phosphor-bronze is multitudes harder to machine than the more commonly used brass.) Also unique for this final run of the Calendrier Type I, 'Azuki's' hour markers are further finished in off-white to provide a perfect contrast to its vintage maroon dial color.

INSPIRATION

Hajime Asaoka wanted to achieve a color that harked back to cars of the past, where maroon was a popular standard color. In Japan, that car color is more commonly designated as 'azuki' (tr: 'red bean') hence the nickname for the watch.

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"I think the last Japanese car to have a maroon color was the Datsun 240Z. I don't know if this color was exported, but in Japan, the Datsun 240Z was associated with maroon. I personally like the maroon color very much. However, it is a very difficult color to paint on a watch face. For a deep maroon color, it is necessary to add a dye to the pigment. This requires a thicker coating of paint. This is no problem for a car body, but very difficult for a watch face."

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"This is why you hardly ever see a (deep) maroon watch face."

"This time, as usual, I mixed the maroon myself and gave it to the dial maker as a color sample. The coating was quite thick. I wondered if the dial maker would be able to finish the color the way I wanted. After a while, the dial maker sent me the sample. The person in charge of the project said that he had gone through a lot of trouble, but the finished dial was superb. The sample I sent was painted on a white plastic plate, but by using a reddish "phosphor bronze" material for the dial itself, they were able to achieve a deep color tone while reducing the coating film. Of course, great care was also taken in the color mixing of the paint itself." ~ Hajime Asaoka

DETAIL

Dial


Azuki's dial enhances the "beauty of symmetry" that is a component of the Art Deco style. The cylinder dial is designed to curve from the center to the outer edge of the dial, and two dial layers are pressed together to create a three -dimensional effect. 
 
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The numerals themselves - this time colored in off-white for this anniversary - are also purposefully printed in a raised format. To achieve its unique deep-maroon color, the dial is made from phosphor-bronze for the first time.

Case

The case is made of forged 316L stainless steel. It is newly designed to fit the coin-edged bezel, but keeps the iconic Kurono case DNA. The case sides are mirror -finished. The mirror finish is free from distortion, so much so that exterior reflections are beautifully portrayed. 
 
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Also, when viewed from the side, the mirror finish and the coin-edge bezel can be seen to stand out in their respective finishes. Water resistance has been increased to 5 ATM. The case-back is finished with a circular lettering design, as seen on vintage watches.

Sapphire crystal

The scratch-resistant box sapphire crystal is raised like the acrylic glass of a vintage watch. 
 
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Designed for the Calendrier 'Type I', its shape is 0.15 mm higher than that of an ordinary sapphire box crystal.

Unique Hand-bent Hands

The combination of high- polish leaf hands for the hour and minute hands with modern hands is a typical Kurono design. The hour and minute hands are curved at both ends, and are paired with a counterweighted second hand that is very thin. The tips of the second and minute hands are bent by hand.

Movement

Miyota 9122
- a Japan-made movement - is used. It is a rare movement with "center seconds and full calendar," which is uncommon in current Swiss-made mass-produced ebauches. 
 
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Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: The COMPLICATIONS Anniversary Calendrier Azuki

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Case 
316L high-polished stainless steel case
Diameter 38mm 
Thickness 10mm (11.5mm incl sapphire)
Unique box sapphire glass 
Solid caseback
Movement
Japan-made cal.9122 triple calendar complication movement
Leveraging a Japanese movement allows for the Kurono Calendrier 'Type I' to be fully Japan made.
Power reserve 40 hours
Complications: full/triple calendar (month, day, date)
Dial 
Phosphor-bronze dial base
Strap
Calf leather strap
Widths: 20mm at lugs, 16mm at buckle
Made in Japan  🇯🇵

AVAILABILITY   ⚠️ SOLD OUT
It will be available for purchase on Friday, 26 May 2023, and there will be 2 order windows.
Deliveries start from End June through August 2023

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Press release - 2023
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🇯🇵 KuronoTokyo.com

Wednesday, August 16, 2023

LINDE WERDELIN – Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Carbon


LINDE WERDELIN Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Carbon 2023

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New Oktopus Moon 3DTP: Embrace Summer Style!

THE OKTOPUS MOON 3DTP WITH WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL AND BLACK INK DIAL, THE PERFECT SUMMER WATCH FOR ADVENTURES

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Linde Werdelin presents the Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Ink, the successor to its iconic Oktopus Black Ink that marked the 20th anniversary of the brand.

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This exquisite timepiece combines uncompromising style, and masculine sophistication with a bold black-and-white contrast, making it the perfect watch for summer adventures.

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With a striking white ceramic bezel, distinguished 3DTP black case, captivating black ink dial, pristine white strap and driven by Linde Werdelin bespoke calibre with moonphase complication, this new edition radiates a contemporary style and timeless elegance, making it the ideal companion for every moment, from day to night.

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The case of the Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black Ink is produced in pioneering 3-Dimensional Thin Ply Carbon (3DTP™) with a bezel in white ceramic.

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Different from traditional carbon fibre composites or forged carbon, the 3DTP™ involves a technique of layering thin sheets of carbon to ensure maximum lightness and strength.

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Originally the world’s first proprietary technology carbon conceived for Swiss watchmaking, it is engineered to achieve a high precision calculated case structure.

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The movement is bespoke with an in-house graphic moonphase complication, which was originally conceived and developed in 2009 together with renowned Danish master watchmaker Svend Andersen of Andersen Geneve.

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 “ When we first finished the piece, I thought this is my perfect summer watch, the juxtaposition of black and white from the strap to the case, the bezel and into the moons themselves works perfectly.”
    Jorn Werdelin, co-founder

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The 3DTP black case is topped with a white ceramic bezel and fixed with black titanium screws. The watch has a titanium screw-down crown engraved with an octopus icon. The AR coated sapphire crystal glass provides a clear view of the five-layer skeletonised dial. The watch is water resistant up to 300 meters.

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Technical Specifications

Collection Oktopus

Model  Oktopus Moon 3DTP White Black

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 Movement
    Bespoke LW calibre with in-house moon phase complication
    Frequency: 28,800vph (4 Hz)
    Jewels: 23
    Power reserve: 42 hours

Case
    Outer Case:
Sculpted multi-layered 3DTP carbon
Sapphire crystal, antireflective on the inside
    Crown: Titanium; rough circular satin, engraved with an octopus motif
    Back Case: Titanium, engraved with octopus drawing
    Bezel: Ceramic
DLC Titanium screws, circular satin finish on top and black tension discs
Dimensions: 44mm (w) by 46mm (l) by 15mm (h)
Water Resistance: 300 m
Dial
    5 layer skeletonised dial in Anti-Reflective Ink Black
    Flange and top layer; circular satin finish
    Hands in titanium color with satin finish and Luminova
    Lower dial; Circular Côte de Genève Dial
    Large numerals, 3, 9, 12, in Ink Black with Luminova
    Ink Black hour with Cool Grey minute indexes
Strap
Snow White Rubber Strap with Ardillion Buckle

🔴 Price   CHF 19,000 / € 19,759 / $ 21,700 💰

 

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