ARNOLD & SON – PERPETUAL MOON 41.5 Platinum “Celestial Blue” Edition

 

ARNOLD & SON – PERPETUAL MOON 41,5 Platinum “Celestial Blue” Edition 2023

 
The cold shimmer of a starry night. The diaphanous presence of a large mother-of-pearl moon. The pale gleam of platinum. Perpetual Moon 41.5 Platinum “celestial blue” is expanding the collection’s different variations on the largest astronomical moon. Every part of this piece evokes the radiance of the night, from the dial stamped with the House’s “Stellar Rays” decor to the moon disc in a grained sky and the navy-blue alligator-leather strap. 

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Arnold & Son continues to explore the theme of moon phases with a constant eye for detail and decoration. After revisiting the design of the Perpetual Moon, this celestial-blue version is joining the collection. As always, in the backdrop, the moon-phase complication is accentuated to striking effect. In a platinum case measuring 41.5 mm in diameter and 11.30 mm thick, Perpetual Moon 41.5 Platinum “celestial blue” presents the largest of all moons.

Delicacy

This edition showcases the latest characteristics of the Perpetual Moon collection, substantially redesigned to achieve greater refinement and subtlety. The lugs have been simplified and refined. Instead of their original cross shape, they now present a tauter form of plunging bars with bevelled ends. 

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They form a single piece with the case middle, in terms of both their construction and appearance. After remaining at 42 mm for a long time, the case has been slightly reduced to 41.5 mm without altering the dial opening, giving a slimmer bezel instead. As a result, the eye is drawn in towards the dial, its finishes, its immense moon and its dominant pale-blue shade.

Light

The dial is adorned with the “Stellar Rays” finish. Its aesthetic is obtained through skilfully irregular engraving. Various depths and widths of rays are successively combined to create a specific rhythm. Their sequence produces a fluctuating play of light, which is accentuated by the depth created by several layers of transparent lacquer.

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The large white mother-of-pearl moon is realistically rendered with hand-painted shadows and coated with Super-LumiNova. It is placed on a grained sky featuring a midnight-blue PVD treatment. Following the tradition of the Perpetual Moon collection, it is surrounded by the Big Dipper and Cassiopeia constellations, which are also hand-painted and coated with luminescent material.

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The constellations have been chosen as a reference to John Arnold’s history as a maker of naval chronometers. The Big Dipper and Cassiopeia have been used as points of reference since time immemorial. Midway between these easily identifiable constellations is the North Star. Its position inevitably defines the North and its angular altitude, or position in the North-South plane, and allows the distance to the equator, i.e. the latitude, to be estimated. Before instruments for measuring longitude were invented, it was the most reliable way to determine the position of a boat in the middle of the ocean.

Accuracy

On the case back, a secondary indicator allows the moon phase to be adjusted quickly and precisely. The hand-wound calibre that powers it, reference A&S1512, is capable of tracking the development of its segments with exceptional precision. The duration of a complete lunar cycle is 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds. Arnold & Son has succeeded in representing it in such a way that it would take 122 years for this movement, if regularly wound, to accumulate a day’s difference between its display and celestial reality.

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Like all Arnold & Son movements, the A&S1512 calibre has been entirely developed, manufactured, decorated, assembled, adjusted and cased at the Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The calibre features two barrels and an oscillating frequency of 3 Hz, providing a power reserve of 90 hours.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection:  PERPETUAL MOON

Model:  PERPETUAL MOON 41.5 Platinum “Celestial Blue” Edition

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Reference 1GLBX.U01A.C200X


Movement
    Calibre A&S1512, hand-wound mechanical
    Jewels: 27
    Diameter:34 mm
    Depth: 5.35 mm
    Power reserve: 90 hours
    Frequency: 3 Hz / 21,600 vibrations/h
    Finishes
            main plate: rhodium-finished, Côtes de Genève stripes radiating from the centre
            bridges: polished and chamfered
            wheels: circular satin-finished
            screws: blued and chamfered, polished heads
            second moon-phase indication: rhodium-finished and circular-grained

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 Functions
    Hours, minutes,
    moon-phase indication,
    second moon-phase indication on the back
Dial 
“Stellar Rays” décor, with celestial-blue PVD treatment
Moon phases    sky: grained, with midnight-blue PVD treatment
    constellations: hand-painted, enhanced with Super-LumiNova
    moons: mother-of-pearl discs enhanced with Super-LumiNova, hand-painted details
Case
Vaterial: platinum (Pt 950)
    Diameter: 41,5 mm
    Depth: 11.30 mm
    Crystal: domed sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on both sides
    Case back: sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on the interior
    Water-resistance: 30 m /100 ft
Strap & Buckle
Material: blue alligator-skin with glittering specks, red alligator-skin lining, platinum (Pt950) thread, hand-sewn
Pin buckle, 18 carat white gold
       

Edition
Limited edition of 38 timepieces

Swiss  retail price
CHF 46,000 excl. tax (may be subject to modifications) 

#ARNOLDandSON; #PERPETUALMOON; #CalibreA&S1512; #A&S1512; #EclipseI; #1GLBX.U01A.C200X; #Platinum; #MoonPhases; #AstronomicalMoon

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Press releases - 2023
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Jaeger-LeCoultre – Presents Second Capsule Vintage Collection

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Presents Second Capsule Collection Vintage Timepieces

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 JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS A SECOND CAPSULE COLLECTION OF EMBLEMATIC VINTAGE TIMEPIECES THROUGH ‘THE COLLECTIBLES’

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COMPLEMENTED BY THE COLLECTIBLES BOOK, THE TIMEPIECES WILL BE UNVEILED IN LOS ANGELES ON 15 JUNE

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Jaeger-LeCoultre is pleased to present the second capsule collection of rare and sought-after timepieces under its programme The Collectibles. 

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Created for watch enthusiasts who wish to acquire a piece of history from La Grande Maison, The Collectibles was introduced to coincide with the 190 years of the Manufacture and forms part of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ongoing offer.

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Covering the 50-year ‘golden age’ of 20th-century watchmaking (1920s-1970s), The Collectibles encapsulates the way that watchmaking evolved through five decades of momentous social and technological change, and the role played in that evolution by the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

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Under The Collectibles programme, a continually evolving selection of historically significant timepieces is released as a series of capsule collections presented in different cities around the world, and available for purchase.

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To complement these meticulously curated collections, Jaeger-LeCoultre has published The Collectibles book – the definitive reference to 17 historically significant models that represent high-water marks not only for Jaeger-LeCoultre but also for the development of watchmaking in the 20th century. 

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Written by the experts within La Grande Maison and covering each model in encyclopaedic detail, supplemented by copies of historical documents from the Maison’s archives, the beautifully illustrated coffee-table book also offers fascinating insights into the cultural and social milieu in which the watches were developed. 

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All watches offered under The Collectibles programme will be drawn from among the 17 models represented in the book.

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The second capsule collection, comprising 11 watches, includes a 1920s Duoplan, an early Reverso and two great innovations from the beginning of the 1950s: Futurematic and Memovox.

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The Futurematic was the world’s first fully automatic watch without a conventional crown and winding mechanism and was claimed to be the world’s most accurate wristwatch of its day. 

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Thanks to the ground-breaking Calibre 497, the watch stops before it is fully unwound – effectively ‘going to sleep’ while retaining enough energy to restart with utmost accuracy, even after a long period of immobility.

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With the time set by a disc on the case-back, the absence of a winding crown accentuates the purity and symmetry of the Futurematic’s design.

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 In 1957, seven years after creating the first Memovox, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s engineers combined two major technical advances – an alarm function and automatic winding – for the first time to create Calibre 815

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Among the five Memovox pieces offered in this second capsule collection are two Memovox Automatic Calendar pieces; equipped with Calibre 825, they have the added benefit of a date display at 3 o’clock.

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Every Collectibles timepiece is presented with an extract from the Jaeger-LeCoultre archives and a complimentary copy of The Collectibles coffee-table book, as well as a new calf leather strap chosen to complement the style of each watch. In addition, when available, the original box and papers, and original strap or bracelet will be included.

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Every piece is thoroughly vetted by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s historical experts and fully serviced and restored by the specialised watchmakers of the Manufacture’s restoration workshop. 

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Currently numbering 10 experts, the restoration team can go through the Manufacture’s archives and find the blueprint of every piece ever made, and in some cases also find original spare components. 

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If there is no component to hand, there is a stock of some 6,000 swages or stamps that they can use to make an identical component from scratch. Because the Manufacture is fully integrated, the entire process can be carried out in-house. 

Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO  While the mechanical restoration may, in some cases, be significant, the intervention on the case and dial must be kept to a minimum, since too much work would alter the historical nature of the piece for collectors; therefore, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s acquisitions team seeks watches that are as close as possible to their original condition.

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The second capsule collection will be unveiled in Los Angeles for collectors and Jaeger-LeCoultre enthusiasts to view at the Maison’s boutique on Rodeo Drive from 16 June until 21 June. 

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Along with the newly restored watches offered for sale, visitors to the boutique will discover a display of pieces from the Manufacture’s archives that represent each of the 17 chapters in The Collectibles book, shining the spotlight on the pioneering spirit that has always driven La Grande Maison.  

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They will also enjoy live demonstrations of the painstaking craft of polishing screws and the fascinating art of heat-blueing hands. These two crafts are among the dozens of skills employed in the Manufacture’s restoration workshop, breathing new life into decades-old pieces and enabling these timeless objects to be passed from one generation to the next.

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The second capsule collection of The Collectibles programme will be available online through jaeger-lecoultre.com, as well as during the Los Angeles presentation.

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Press Release - 2023
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