KUDOKE – HANDwerk KUDOKE 3

 

KUDOKE – HANDwerk KUDOKE 3 Steel / 18 ct Rose Gold 39 mm Edition 2023

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 Masters of Horology - GENEVA

We must apologize that the presentation of a new model took us so long! The success of our HANDwerk line and winning the GPHG 2019 with KUDOKE 2 has simply overwhelmed us. The unrelenting demand has tied up our complete capacities. We have taken this into account and expanded our team and started to build a new, larger premises for the manufactory.

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Long awaited, but now the time has finally come: after the first two models of the HANDwerk collection KUDOKE 1 and KUDOKE 2, as well as numerous variations and limited editions, the next model of this collection will now be presented in Geneva as part of the exhibition "Masters of Horology" of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) from March 27 to April 2, 2023. And what other name could it have other than: KUDOKE 3.

KUDOKE 3

As with the two previous models, the unique signature of the HANDwerk collection is unmistakable in this timepiece. Again applied elements harmonize with the matte frosted dial surface, lending the watch a sophisticated simplicity. And yet, the dial side is quite different from its predecessors. Inspired by antique English pocket watches, Stefan Kudoke has reinterpreted them in the style of the HANDwerk line and thus chosen a somewhat unconventional way of displaying the time for KUDOKE 3:

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While the minutes are "classically" indicated by the large blued steel hand above the dial ring sitting at the top, the hour indication is placed on an attached plate divided into three sections on the dial level below.

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The hour is indicated with the help of a hand that has three arms of different lengths and runs between the two dials. When one arm of the hand reaches the end of the hour scale, the next longer or shorter arm appears at the beginning of the next hour scale. Hours 2, 6 and 10 are then shown twice on different scales before the current hand arm moves on. Simple yet unique.

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But as so often in life, it's the details what gives it that extra something. Thus, the infinity sign as symbol of the HANDwerk collection can also be found in this model. In addition to being integrated into the tip of the minute hand, it has also been printed on the minute ring at the position of 60, where it connects the end and the beginning of each hour. The three-arm hour hand takes this very symbol and reverses it. If an infinity symbol were placed next to these "finite" hands, they would be compatible - like Yin and Yang.

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The rhodinized upper dial with the balancing logo plate matches the hour plate on the silver-plated dial below with its gently curved wave shape. It is mounted on the lower dial together with the minute ring by four screws, which also represent the minute indicators 10, 20, 40 and

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1.    The different levels and tasteful coloring give the dial of the watch an impressive depth. Diamond edges on hour plate, logo plate as well as minute chapter ring offer interesting possibilities for playing with light.

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As with previous models, the understated 39 mm stainless steel case with classic onion crown and 10.3 mm case height provides an appropriate setting for this classic yet extravagant watch, the heart of which, KALIBER 1, is exposed through the sapphire crystal case back.

We look forward to meeting you in Geneva!

(L’ice Bergues Exhibition Centre, Place des Bergues 3 / from 2 to 11 pm)

Kaliber 1

With his own movement first presented in 2018 Stefan Kudoke has fullfilled a dream. While making a name as a creator of exceptional, handskeletonized and –engraved artistic watches before, the development of an own Kaliber has tempted him for some time.

Valuable impulses were provided by the old Masters – in particular those of the German-English traditional handcraft of precision watchmaking.

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"During the development of Kaliber 1. I got inspired by the design of historical English pocket watches whose use of forms I deliberately incorporated into my movement. Ages ago I bought an old English pocket watch movement, that lay unused in a drawer for a long time. One day it fell into my hands again – just as the idea of an own movement began to take shape." 

As with his skeleton models, Stefan Kudoke sets great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special reaming technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by hand exclusively.

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Stefan Kudoke

„More than 15 years ago, I said to my wife, 'I have a crazy idea: I will manufacture my own wat-ches!'“ At that time, Stefan Kudoke was a student who already had finished his master-watchmaker's degree and had worked at renowned brands like Glashütte Original, Breguet, and Blancpain be-fore.

With the founding of his eponymous brand in 2008, Stefan pursued his dream full-time and made a name for himself as a creator of exceptionally artistic hand-skeletonized and hand-engraved timepieces among his KUNSTwerk collection. Of the emergence of his second collection, the HANDwerk line, Stefan explained, "After more than 10 years, I refined my skeletonizing skills to their utmost, and I found myself in a position where I wanted to develop my watchmaking skills further. To use old techniques and keep the practical know-how of traditional watchmaking alive has always been very important to me." And he brought this to fruition with the first two models of his new collection: KUDOKE 1 & 2.

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With his first own movement, Stefan has fulfilled his dream. Valuable lessons were drawn from the old masters, specifically those of the German-English traditional handcraft of precision watchma-king. "During the development of the Kaliber 1, I was inspired by the design of historical English pocket watches whose use of forms I incorporated into my movement. Ages ago I bought an old English pocket watch movement that lay unused in a drawer for a long time. One day it fell into my hands again, just as the idea of Kaliber 1 began to take shape."

As with his skeleton models, Stefan Kudoke sets great value upon the refinement of the watch components by hand. Be it the polishing of edges at bridges or steel parts, the engravings or the surface treatment of the wheel bridge using a special grinding technology – all steps during the finishing process are carried out by hand exclusively. This is how handcrafted pieces of art are created - in small volumes and with great care and attention to detail.

[Stefan Kudoke, master watchmaker]

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Technical Specifications

Collection: HANDwerk

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Model: KUDOKE 3 

Case
Diameter: 39mm, H: 10.3mm
Stainless Steel, completely polished/ 
18 ct Rose Gold (5N) on special order with brushed flanks and case-back
Fluted onion crown
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Sapphire crystal exhibition caseback
Water resistance:  5 ATM/50m
Dial
Frosted two-part dial, silvered/ rhodinized, with rhodinized chapter ring on top dial and plate to
indicate hours in three sections on dial below
Steel hands tempered blue, minute hand with infinity symbol, three-arm hour hand
Movement
    In-house Kaliber 1 manual winding
    W: 30mm, H: 4.30mm
    18 jewels
    28,800 vib/h (4Hz)
    46 hours power reserve
    Frosted hand-finish of wheel bridge
    Handengraved balance cock with infinity symbol

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Strap
Leather or Alcantara strap
Buckle stainless steel / 18 ct Rose Gold on special order/ electively folding clasp stainless steel

🔰Available in stainless steel as well as 18 ct Rose Gold on special order.
For Kaliber 1 customization options are available like for the other models of the HANDwerk series.

🔴 Price:  RRP excluding VAT: 9,350 EUR / £ 9’800

Warranty: 2 years manufacturer warranty

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Press Release - 2023
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Kontakt: Ev Kudoke
☎️ +49 35951 347261 
📭 ev@kudoke.eu
KUDOKE UHREN,
Inhaber Stefan Kudoke,
Wilthener Weg 17a, 01904 Weifa,
Germany
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www.kudoke.eu

Czapek – ANTARCTIQUE Titanium “Dark Sector” Edition

Czapek – ANTARCTIQUE Titanium "Dark Sector" Automatic Edition 2023

Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector
Czapek & Cie unveils a study in magic greys

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Czapek & Cie has launched a brand new model in its Antarctique collection. This new three-hand timepiece takes a serene, geometrical approach to the display of time and remains true to the company’s dedication to top-tier manufacturing and finishing. 

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Every watch is essentially subjected to two sets of fundamental laws. The first is mechanics, which means everything must function like clockwork, quite literally. The second is aesthetics and is far more subjective: a watch must be visually attractive, provocative, seductive.  

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Czapek’s latest launch, the Antarctique Titanium ‘Dark Sector’, strikes a perfectly symbiotic balance between these two poles. It is driven by the tried-and-true SHX5, and its dial was designed for excellent readability and viewing pleasure.

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The key to this Antarctique’s appeal is in the careful use of space. A traditional minute track has been discreetly placed around the edge of a smooth anthracite dial. It surrounds a double row of lightly arched parallel segments that are interrupted at each numeral. 

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The sword hour hand points to the gaps like a ship seeking entrance into a harbour, while the minute and second hands sweep the dial each at their own pace, closing the gaps for a moment. This creates a kind of animation, a slight change in the visual geometry. 

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"The idea is simple, but requires great precision to execute," says CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel. "The hands crossing from segment over the dusky backdrop of the dial looks almost like a shoreline seen from far above. The dial was designed in such a way that the marker becomes the void between each sector (an almost philosophical way of defining matter. This spontaneously inspired the model's name "Dark Sector", which comes from the Dark Sector Laboratory and telescopes at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. The skies over Antarctica are the clearest and darkest in the world..."

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The Antarctique Titanium ‘Dark Sector’ emerged naturally from the collection’s elegant case and bracelet of brushed titanium with the sensually rounded crown protector. These shades of grey inspired the model’s overall monochrome scheme, which highlights the two touches of colour on the dial, namely the red dot at twelve o’clock, and the tip of the second hand. The watch runs on Czapek's robust automatic calibre SXH5, the first to be entirely conceived in-house. It is driven by a microrotor of recycled platinum and provides up to sixty hours of autonomy. 

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The SXH5.01 automatic caliber is the first to be entirely conceived in-house by Czapek from a blank page. Every part of it has been made with care to detail and with the help of the top Swiss manufacturing partners and craftsmen, la crème de la crème, the magnificent orchestra directed by Czapek in the We Collect Rare People spirit. 

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The microrotor, is placed off-center to allow a plunging view into the mechanism and its exceptional architecture. A free-sprung balance wheel with variable inertia provided by four gold adjustable weights enables the highest level of precision tuning. The gear train is held in place by a series of seven handsome skeletonized bridges. 

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Their original shape is reminiscent of lace, inspired on one side by XIX century pocket watches, and by the very modern Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph’s rotor. The movement has superlative finishing on the bridges that merges Haute Horlogerie angling techniques with state-ot-the-art laser engravings. Since the unveiling of its base movement in May, Czapek & Cie has been continually making improvements to its automatic caliber SXH5 to enhance its precision, performance, and aesthetic. The first upgrade has been to the micro-rotor that was previously in recycled 18-karat gold.

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Our watch’s designer and constructor decided to try a slightly larger rotor in platinum – 100% recycled - which brought 25% more power to the movement. The second upgrade came with a complete change of ball bearings under the micro-rotor. Both upgrades raised the train efficiency to 90% to fully wind the single barrel and deliver the impressive 60 hours of power reserve. This is a significantly longer autonomy than the average high-end sports watches

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In fine watchmaking, every little detail counts. Besides the exceptional SHX5 movement and the sleek and sharp design of the case or the dial, a great deal of attention was put on the bracelet. The feeling when placed on the wrist, the comfort in every situation and lightness are as important as the timepiece visual and technical qualities. 

 

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The capability to be forgotten by its wearer and to suddenly reveal its stunning beauty create an intensely pleasurable dichotomy. This is why the Antarctique Dark Sector is equipped by an ergonomic brushed integrated bracelet in Grade 5 Titanium, whose links mesh to form a brushed "C" for Czapek. This bracelet also features a micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer to extend its length by few millimeters in an instant.

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But there’s more. An additional strap is provided, as Czapek has developed an exclusive quick-change system allowing the wearer to switch from one strap to another in a minute. A large choice of straps is now offered to provide a maximum versatility and playful experience. 

 

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Rubber straps whose pattern recalls the "Stairway to Eternity" design on the Passage de Drake dial are available in black, white, dark blue, light blue, red, orange or dark grey. Alternatively, a selection of soft calf straps with contrasting topstitches can be chosen.

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An exhibition case reveals the fine architecture, with seven bridges that hark back to 19th-century pocket watch movements. The movement's height of 4.5millimeters means that this new model is as sportive and elegant as all others in the Antarctique family. The Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector will be available in a limited yearly production of 100 pieces at Czapek's authorized dealers worldwide, its flagship store in Geneva and at Czapek.com. 

 The Titanium Dark Sector will be available to buy at Czapek.com, and at the brand's official retailer network starting on APRIL 1st 2023 AT 3PM CET. It is priced at 32'000 CHF before taxes.

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About Czapek & Cie
 
François Czapek was a Czech-born Polish watchmaker who fled to Geneva in 1832 after fighting in the Polish uprising. He immediately started his own atelier and in 1839 entered into a partnership with Antoine Norbert de Patek, introducing him to the world of watchmaking. In 1845, at the end of their partnership, he created Czapek & Cie and achieved considerable success. He became the official watchmaker of Napoleon III and opened, what was most likely the first watchmaking boutique on the Place Vendome in Paris. 

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He wrote a book about watchmaking, but unfortunately, he died before publishing a second one. Czapek & Cie has been revived in 2015 with an exceptional collection, whose leading model won the Public Prize in the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie in Geneva in November 2016. This collection takes its inspiration from an 1850’s Czapek time piece. It features a beautiful enamel dial and a 7-day proprietary movement perfectly combining craftsmanship with design and exclusivity with rarity. The Company second collection, a suspended Tourbillon with a second time-zone, was launched one year later in 2017, while the first Czapek chronograph Faubourg de Cracovie was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. The company is headquartered in Geneva, Switzerland.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:   GARRICK – Antarctique Titanium “Dark Sector” Edition

Titanium case, grey brass dial with registered segments design.
Micro-rotor SXH5 caliber, entirely conceived in-house by Czapek & Cie. 
Limited edition of 100 pieces

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MOVEMENT
- Calibre SXH5: Czapek's in house self-winding mechanical movement
- Diameter: 30 mm – 13 lines ¼
- Height: 4.2 mm
- Number of parts: 193
- Jewels: 28
- Swiss lever escapement, variable-inertia balance fitted with four gold inertia-blocks
- Frequency: 4 Hz – 28’800 VpH
- Power winding system: Micro rotor with an 18K recycled gold mass
- Power-reserve > 56 hours on one single barrel
- Barrel torque: 8.8 Nmm
FINISH
- Open ratchet, sandblasted black bridges, bevelling, straight-grained sides, six hand-chamfered inward angles
FUNCTIONS
- Hours, Minutes & Seconds
CASE
- 40.5mm brushed Grade 5 titanium case
- Height: 10.6 mm
- Sapphire crystal glass-box with anti-reflective treatment
- Sapphire case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inner side
- Water resistance: 120m
- Screwed-down crown

- Watch weight: 95g
DIAL
- Anthracite grey brass dial with velouté finish and exclusive registered segments design
- Luminescent, steel "Sword" hands
BRACELET
- Integrated brushed titanium bracelet with Czapek exclusive "Easy Release" system and micro-adjustment device
- Additional calf leather or rubber strap

PRODUCTION
- Limited edition of 100 pieces maximum
- Online subscription only, ending APRIL 1st 2023 AT 3PM CET.

INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTION PRICE
- CHF 32’000 or $ 36’000 (US duties incl.)

🔰Edition - Only of ✅ 100 pieces

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Press Release - 2023
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Czapek & Cie – 2, Rue Saint-Léger, 1205 Genève Suisse
Contact presse: Valeria Garavaglia Pedroni
Email: valeria@czapek.com | jane@czapek.com (UK)

Tel.  +41 79 314 08 54
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