Thursday, February 23, 2023

Sinn – T50 GBDR Titanium

Sinn SpezialuhrenDiving Watches T50 GBDR Titanium 500 M 2023

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The diving watch with Captive Safety Bezel made of Goldbronze.

Case made of high-strength titanium,
bead-blasted
Bezel made of Goldbronze 125, bead-blasted
Tested based on European diving equipment standards and certified by DNV
Waterproof and pressure-resistant to 50 bar
(= 500 m water depth), certified by DNV
Captive Diver´s Bezel with guard to prevent accidental misadjustment
Colour-differentiated luminous paint for minute hand, second hand and key mark on the bezel for clear reading of set time
Crown at 4 o’clock to prevent pressure on the back of the hand
Ar‑Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
Sapphire crystal glass
Low pressure resistant

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Developing and using “unconventional” case materials for watchmaking is one of our core competencies. It is deeply rooted in our company’s historical DNA and has produced a number of astonishing timepieces in the past. The T50 GBDR edition is another impressive demonstration of our extensive expertise in the field of metallurgy.

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For the diver’s bezel of this interesting timepiece, we are using a bronze alloy we developed, which has a patent pending. This alloy, referred to as Goldbronze 125, has an exceptionally high degree of purity, and one eighth of it is gold. With bronze, we are embracing a material that has been used frequently in a wide range of maritime applications in the past. However, the exceptionally high degree of purity of our Goldbronze 125 results in improved skin compatibility and increased corrosion resistance to seawater compared to conventional bronze alloys. Material-technically matching this, the case of the T50 GBDR is made of high-strength titanium. As this metal does not cause allergies, the watch provides exceptionally high wearing comfort overall. Although the surface of Goldbronze 125 darkens due to oxidation, developing a patina, we achieve inertia against environmental influences with the gold alloy component. The surface darkens much more slowly than with ordinary bronze. The darkening can also be easily removed using the special gold bronze care cloth we provide.

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A concept tailored for operational safety ensures that nothing goes wrong when diving. This can be seen, for example, in the robust diver’s bezel. It is an extremely reliable tool for timekeeping, as it is captively attached to the case. It is also protected against accidental twisting. “Press first, then turn”: this is the memorable principle behind the simple yet effective anti-twist mechanism. When things get tough, Ar‑Dehumidifying Technology ensures greater functional reliability and freedom from fogging.

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The captive safety diver’s bezel made of Goldbronze 125 harmonises perfectly with the matte black dial – an interplay that skilfully contrasts with the more objective-technical appearance of the bead-blasted, high-strength titanium case. All this does not come at the expense of clear readability and measurability – because the display has been reduced to the bare essentials. Important design features of this concept are strikingly large sword hands and the visual understatement of all functions and printing on the dial and safety bezel that are not relevant to the actual dive.

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The timepiece also uses colour-coding to ensure reliable reading of reference times, especially in the dark or under adverse visibility conditions. The hour hands and indices on the dial glow green, while the minute and second hands and the main marking on the rotating bezel are bluish. As the crown is located at 4 o’clock, it prevents pressure on the back of the hand, even during physically demanding activities.
 
With its diameter of 41 mm, the T50 GBDR model cuts a wearable figure in any situation - especially on narrow wrists.

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Technical details

The Diving Watches 

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Art-Nr. 1052.020

Mechanical Movement
The information on the mechanical movement corresponds to the current production situation in Frankfurt am Main. Due to technical changes, it may happen in individual cases that stock items of our sales partners deviate from this information. (further Information)
Movement
    Calibre SW 300-1
    Self-winding mechanism
    25 bearing jewels
    28,800 semi-oscillations per hour
    Seconds stop function
    Anti-magnetic as per DIN 8309
Case
Case made of high-strength titanium, bead-blasted
ø 41 mm (scale: 1:1)
Bezel made of Goldbronze 125, bead-blasted
Sapphire crystal glass in front, anti-reflective on both sides
Case back screw-fastened
Crown screwable
Meet the technical requirements for waterproofness, as set out in standard DIN 8310
Waterproof and pressure-resistant to 500 m diving depth (= 50 bar), certified by DNV
    According to the technical demands for the diving norm DIN 8306
    Tested based on European diving equipment standards EN 250 / EN14143 and certified by DNV GL
    Low pressure resistant
SINN Technologies
    TEGIMENT Technology, therefore especially scratch‑resistant
    Captive diver's bezel
Functions
• Hours, minutes, seconds
• Date display
• Diver's bezel with minute ratcheting and luminous key mark
• Colour-differentiated luminous paint for minute hand, second hand and key mark on the rotating bezel for clear reading of set time
SINN Technologies
    Captive safety bezel
    Ar-Dehumidifying Technology enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging
Dimensions and Weight
    Case diameter: 41 mm
    Band lug width: 20 mm
    Case thickness: 12.3 mm
    Weight without strap: 58 gramme
Dial and Hands
    Matte black dial
    Indices coated with luminescent colour
    Hour, minute and second hand coated with luminescent colour

  Warranty 3 years

🔴 Price : 

  • Leather strap 3750.00 €
  • Solid bracelet 4100.00 €
  • Silicone strap 4140.00 €


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Press Release - 2023
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SINN  SPEZIALUHREN  GMBH
Im Füldchen 5–7 • 60489 Frankfurt am Main
• Tel. +49 (0)69 / 97 84 14-0
• Fax +49 (0)69 / 97 84 14-201
info@sinn.de
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www.Sinn.de

Wednesday, February 22, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier – Les Roses Carrees – Grand Feu Rosa Mystica Edition

 

Parmigiani Fleurier Les Roses Carrées – Collection Grand Feu Rosa Mystica Repeater White Gold Edition Unique Piece 2023

When you love, there is no counting! And yet they can be counted in tens, hundreds or even thousands. All those hours spent shaping the material, a relationship of total fusion between the craftsman and the single masterpiece that will come to life. Parmigiani Fleurier is proud to present Rosa Mystica, the latest in a series of five unique pieces in the “Grand Feu Collection”, introduced in December 2022 with the Rosa Celeste and its blue Grand Feu enamel.

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The time has come for the red rose to bloom. On this new creation signed by the Maison, a magistral red Grand Feu enamel adorns the dial and the engraved “Rose Carrée” on the back of this exceptional novelty. This miracle of red fire is embellished with a natural garnet cabochon on the 18-ka rat white gold case, adding finesse to the magnificence of the hand engraving. 

Rosa Mystica and the other creations in the Grand Feu collection are an ode to traditional craftsmanship. The enamellers, engravers, chain makers and many others are artists, they are the “golden hands” devoted to the Maison Parmigiani Fleurier that shape and tame the material with mastery.

Parmigiani Fleurier has always been committed to preserving this extraordinary art through its timepieces. Rosa Mystica is a magnificent new testimony to this.

Collector favourites

Between the petals of this horological flower, Parmigiani Fleurier has concealed a manually wound minute repeater calibre with cathedral gongs. Its skeletonization and beveling bring together the best of Parmigiani Fleurier‘s watchmaking expertise and craftsmanship in a unique and poetic piece.

Lineage of roses

Rosa Mystica and Rosa Celeste carry all the hallmarks of La Rose Carrée pocket watch. With Rosa Celeste, these details have been taken to a higher level of wearability and simplicity, making these pieces unique. This model also heralds a series entirely dedicated to the celebration of handmade watchmaking craftsmanship according to Parmigiani Fleurier. “Les Roses Carrées” will be the name and the thread that ties these pieces together. 

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In this execution, the watch case is mounted on a hand-sewn alligator leather strap in red, the reverse side of which is also in alligator leather. With a diameter of 42 mm, the case is cut from white gold blocks. The bezel, lugs and caseband are hand-engraved with the La Rose Carrée motif. These notches are engraved with a chisel into the hard surfaces of the metal, one inside the other in an algorithmic progression. This work requires extreme precision, an impressive investment of time, and a steady hand that is ensured by years of experience.

The “Grand Feu” heritage

A hinge, located at 2 0’clock on the reverse side of these unique pieces, articulates the hunter caseback. Its outer face bears a large square fractal rose, also hand-engraved and covered with multiple layers of colored enamel. On its other side, these unique pieces feature a dial of solid white gold, with a surface engraved by hand. 

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Countless small carvings are made with immaculate regularity throughout the breadth and depth of the dial. Once the surface has been prepared, the enameler takes over and applies the same shade as on the hunter caseback, striving for an identical level of nuance and a play of light made possible by the depth of the work done by the artisanal engraver. 

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In both cases, on the dial and the cover, the technique used is Grand Feu enamel. Each gold element is first covered with enamel from crushed glass, ground finer in each layer, pigmented with metallic oxides and shaded with the color of the base metal.

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The firing process is carried out at a high temperature, 800 degrees Celsius, and must be controlled and repeated for each of the six layers applied. Each firing melts and glazes the enamel, but also runs the risk of re-firing the lower, already glazed layers. The precision of the temperatures, times, materials, and pigments plays a crucial role here.

Cathedra/gongs

To the movement’s extreme aesthetic refinement, Parmigiani Fleurier has added horological substance on an incomparable level. The noblest, most historic complication, the one most directly in line with Michel Parmigiani ls watchmaking practice as a restorer, was chosen to enliven Rosa Celeste: the minute repeater. But striking the hours, quarters and minutes on demand was not enough for these rare timekeeping roses.

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The gongs on which the sound is produced are cathedral gongs. Their exceptional length, spanning one and a half trips around the movement, brings a deeper, richer sound, a more sustained vibration and a more palpable intensity. In order to allow this potential to be fully expressed, the case has been carefully designed to optimize the sound of the movement.

Singing lessons

The movement is suspended in the case and the heel of the gongs is physically connected to the case by two screws. The caseback and case middle have been redesigned to create resonance pockets and to lighten the white gold mass. These two aspects help increase the acoustic quality of the chiming and its range. A final quality criterion is that the chiming sequence automatically skips dead time. Thus, at 3:19, the three chimes for the hour are immediately followed by a double chime for the quarter-hour and again, without silence, by up to four chimes for the minute.

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This device, which is unusual in the world of minute repeaters, is an indispensable characteristic for Parmigiani Fleurier. The Maison’s legendary criteria for ergonomics and directly perceptible quality are also reflected in a running time extended to 72 hours, i.e. three full days, another rarity for this complication.

Lighter than a petal

The movement, although hidden by a solid dial on one side and by its hunter caseback on the other, has nevertheless been the object of an artistic and extensive skeletonization. Usually made visible by the disappearance of the dial, it is here reserved for the owner and his or her closest confidants, a private and exclusive pleasure that speaks to the unique nature of Grand Feu Collection. The shape given to the bridges, the cut-out of their profile, and the size and extent of their openwork are artistic signatures, markers of aesthetic identity and indicators of the care given to execution and details.

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Parmigiani Fleurier
has taken this approach to the extreme. The skeletonization of the PF355 caliber is reminiscent of that of the PF361 caliber, known as the Chronor, which was launched in 2016 inside a model that was at the time the pinnacle of the Parmigiani Fleurier collection. With its curves and counter-curves, harmonious inflections, the depth of the chamfers and its 114 inward and outward angles, Rosa Mystica and Rosa Celeste are the product of unparalleled achievement. The beveling, polishing and surface treatments are all done by hand. Thus, beauty, rarity and substance unite in the new Rosa Mystica.

“Grand Feu” enamel, alchemy and color

“In the work of enamels, each touch, each glaze, each pose, must return the object to the judgment of fire, each fire questioning the work in its totality. The more the fires follow one another, the greater the anguish. No repentance is possible, one must “ride the wave of success” every minute… In this sense, enamel is the most maximal of the Arts. “Jean Closset, Master Enameller

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It is by this quote that the Master Enameller, Vanessa Lecci, welcomes us to her workshop. She is the Master and artist behind the creation of les Roses Carrées “Grand Feu Collection”.

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“The greatest challenge for these pieces was to enhance and highlight the engraving of the object. And on the other hand to create a palette of colors that can best express the refinement of Parmigiani Fleurier creations.

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Some of these enamels belong to collections from the past century and are the last witnesses of a history that has disappeared forever.

Preserving this heritage, now a UNESCO World Heritage property, but also promoting reflection, creation and the arts related to the Haute Horlogerie have always been missions dear to Michel Parmigiani.

Rosa Mystica is a new and magnificent testimony to this commitment.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
 

Model: Les Roses Carrées Grand Feu Rosa Mystica  Gold Edition

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Reference: PFH991-2010001-300181

Pièce unique 1/1

Case
    Material: 18k white gold
    Finishing: polished and hand-engraved with “La Rose Carrée” pattern
    Diameter: 42 mm
    Thickness: 13.39 mm
    Crown: Ø 6.4 mm topped with cabochon-cut natural sapphire
    Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire
    Caseback: sapphire crystal
    Hunter caseback: 18k white gold, hand-engraved with “La Rose Carée” pattern, “Grand feu” enamel, interior engraving, “Rosa Celeste”, “PF” seal and Michel Parmigiani’s signature.
    Caseback engraving serial number, “Parmigiani Fleurier,” Swiss Made, and « Pièce unique »
    Water resistance: 10 m
Dial and hands
    Finishings: hand-engraved with chiseled pattern
    Color: Amaranth Grand feu” enamel
    Indices: hand-applied, 18k gold, rhodium-plated appliques
    Hours and minutes: 18k gold, rhodium-plated, skeletonized, delta-shaped hands
Movement
    PF355 Manual winding with Minute Repeater on Cathedral gongs, continuous Chiming sequence
    Diameter: 30 mm
    Thickness: 6.55 mm
    Frequency: 21,600 Vph (3 Hz)
    Number of jewels: 35
    Number of components: 392
    Power reserve of 72 hours

    Finishings: Côtes de Genève, openworked bridges, hand-beveling and circular graining 
Functions/Indications
    Hour, minutes, minute repeater
Strap and buckle
    Red wine alligator leather strap, double-sided, hand-stitched
    Buckle: 18k white gold pin buckle with hand-engraved “La Rose Carée” pattern

Limitation
Limited Edition to Unique only 1 pieces

🔴 Price : incl. VAT 600.000 CHF 💰

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Press release - 2023
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Contact
Tel-  +41 32 862 66 30
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