Monday, February 13, 2023

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Edition

 
AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Alloy Platinum and Titanium Edition 2023

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is happy to unveil the new iteration of its 41 mm Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin model. This 200-piece limited edition is the heir to the RD#2 model launched in 2019, and to the developments that the Manufacture has been pursuing for several years in terms of ultra-thin calibres. 
 
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Attired in titanium and featuring an entrancing new smoky-blue dial with three black counters, this new version combines aesthetic sophistication with a cutting-edge astronomical complication.

 
NEW DIAL DESIGN

This new edition features titanium on the case, bracelet and bezel, while also incorporating the alternating finishes dear to Audemars Piguet. The screws and chamfers of the bezel, case and bracelet links are polished, while the other surfaces are adorned with a vertical satin-brushed finish. This aesthetic signature stems from a genuine symbiosis between the machine and the artisan’s hand: the former prepares the surfaces – those in titanium are particularly resistant – while the latter ensures all the final finishes ensuring perfect homogeneity.

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This reference introduces a new smoky-blue dial developed especially for the model. Light in the centre and black around the rim, it is decorated with a sunburst motif endowing it with luminous aesthetics facilitating read-off of the calendar indications, month and leap year at 3 o'clock, date at 6 o'clock, day and day/night indicator at 9 o'clock.

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Each of these items of information appears in a snailed black counter. The moon phase at 12 o’clock is the only indication whose design has not been modified. The dial remains punctuated by 12 luminescent applied hour-markers and two central hands, likewise luminescent.

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On the caseback side, this new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin features a sapphire crystal providing a chance to admire the technical prowess embodied in Calibre 5133.

5133, THE BENCHMARK ULTRA-THIN PERPETUAL CALENDAR CALIBRE

Calibre 5133 was introduced in 2017 and pushed the limits of extra-thin complications into the realm of the ultra-thin. Elegantly combining robustness and reliability, it comprises 256 parts within a space measuring just 2.9 mm thick and 32 mm in diameter. This masterpiece of miniaturisation and engineering operates at a frequency of 2.75 Hz (19,800 vph) and delivers a power reserve of at least 40 hours.

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Inside, the perpetual calendar functions usually placed on three separate levels are positioned on a single plane. This new technical feat led to the development of two patented innovations: the integration of the end-of-month cam with the date wheel and the association of the month cam with the month wheel. To further reduce thickness, the dial also acts as a bridge.

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These major advances have been achieved through a combination of CNC (Computer Numerical Control) and CAD (Computer Aided Design) technologies used by the Manufacture since the 1980s.

THE PURSUIT OF CUTTING-EDGE DEVELOPMENTS

At its launch in👉 2018, the unique and soberly named "RD#2" became the world's thinnest selfwinding perpetual calendar. In 2019, the commercial version of this prototype was launched and named Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin RD#2
 
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Equipped with a movement measuring 2.9 mm thick (including the oscillating weight) housed in a case measuring just 6.2 mm thick, this reference is attired in a 950 titanium and platinum alloy combining state-of-the-art technology, aesthetic refinement and lightness.

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Today, the Manufacture presents the worthy heir to this model, entirely made of titanium.

This new iteration also perpetuates the long tradition of calendar watches and ultra-thin movements at Audemars Piguet. A century ago, in 1921, the Manufacture began this two-fold quest with the thinnest pocket watch movement ever made (1.32 mm thick), followed by a similar record for a hand-wound wristwatch movement (1.64 mm in 1938) and then a selfwinding one (2.45 mm in 1967). In 1978, when the watch industry was entirely focused on the development of quartz watches, the Manufacture unveiled a selfwinding perpetual calendar wristwatch movement that was the thinnest in the world at the time of its launch (3.95 mm).

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Today the new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin represents the culmination of this age-old watchmaking approach, as well as a valuable stepping-stone towards future developments.

Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  
Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin / 43 mm

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO   

 Reference:  26586PT.OO.1240PT.01

MOVEMENT
Self-winding Manufacture Calibre 5133
Total diameter: 32.00mm (14 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness: 2.89mm
Number of jewels: 37
Number of parts: 256
Minimal guaranteed power reserve: 40h
Frequency of balance wheel 2.75Hz (=19,800 vibrations/hour) 

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FUNCTIONS
Perpetual calendar with day, date, astronomical moon,
month, leap year, night and day indication, hours and minutes
CASE
950 platinum case
Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and caseback,  
Royal Oak RD#2 engraved on the caseback.
Water-resistant to 20m.
DIAL
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, blue counters.
White gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating
BRACELET
950 platinum bracelet with AP folding clasp

 🔰Edition: ✅ of 200 pieces

🔴 Price : incl. VAT 60'000 EUR /53 900 CHF 💰

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Press Release - 2023
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Saturday, February 11, 2023

KURONO Tokyo – Grand Urushi Aoyama Trio Edition


KURONO Tokyo Grand Urushi Aoyama Trio Edition  

Grand Urushi Aoyama

In celebration of our new salon in Aoyama, Kurono is proud to introduce the very limited Kurono Grand Urushi Aoyama - three exceptional urushi executions limited to 188 pieces each (including those sold as a set. It takes the very best of what we have done in terms of finishing - hand-made urushi dials - and displays without any embellishments the purity and beauty of an urushi-based design by Hajime Asaoka.

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The Grand Urushi Aoyama will be available as a set of three in a special Japanese paulownia wood presentation box, or individually in regular packaging. 88 sets of three will first be available in Dec 2022 with individual watches available from Feb 2023. Either set or individual can be ordered at the salon now.

Fulfilment from Dec 2022:
Set of Three: JPY 889,000 excl VAT
(Collection from 22nd Dec, customers will be contacted directly)

Fulfilment from Feb 2023:
Individual: JPY 358,500 excl VAT

The Grand Urushi Aoyama can only be ordered and picked up at the Kurono salon in Aoyama, Tokyo. All bookings require full payment and are strictly non-refundable. The watches are now exhibited in the salon.

 Handmade Urushi Purity

Urushi lacquer is made from the filtered sap of the Japanese rhus vernicifera tree. It is seen as a miraculous substance that cures naturally into a material with remarkable properties. The lacquer absorbs moisture from the air as it hardens, making the lacquered surface perpetually shiny and slick. Over time, urushi will become harder and more scratch-resistant as the curing process continues even after the initial manufacture. Suki-Urushi (or clear lacquer) seals the specific patterns on each dial. Sunlight - specifically UV light - will, over time, lighten and make it more translucent and warmer or cooler.

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Urushi has been used as a lacquer in Japan for thousands of years. The sap from the lacquer tree is refined and colored with pigments and other ingredients to produce a final work characterized by its beautiful finish and durability. Lacquer trees are 10 to 20 years old when their sap can finally be harvested. After the sap is collected, the trees die, and new trees are planted by hand. Only about 200 grams of sap can be extracted from each tree, making it extremely valuable and increasingly rare.

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The subtle, distinctive trait of the urushi is that when exposed to natural and UV light, it will turn brighter over time due to moisture loss which usually takes years. For our Kurono customers, depending on the country you are situated in, the urushi dial will change color, creating a unique piece for each of you.

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Urushi dials have perhaps the highest rejection rate amongst all Kurono watches, if not across the industry. The surface has to be pristine, like the surface of a calm lake in autumn. Additionally, urushi dials require up to 2 months to dry and prep. Throughout the lengthy process, whether a mistake made during handpainting or even a single retained speck of dust - it would amplify imperfections during the drying process and hence has to be thrown out.

Presentation

A special presentation box in Japanese paulownia wood will be prepared for customers that purchase a set of three Grand Urushi Aoyama. Embellished directly on the wooden cover is the word 'Time' in Japanese, with the font personally designed by Hajime Asaoka.

Caseback

Kurono watches with the 'Grand' designation feature an elevated level of artisanal craftsmanship, and is differentiated not only by its innate beauty, but also with a signature caseback exclusive to 'Grand' watches.

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The focal point of this exclusive caseback is Hajime-sensei’s signature embellished in bold kanji calligraphy alongside the impression of his one-of a-kind hanko stamp. 

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Specifications & Availability


Hand-applied urushi lacquer dial
Japan-made Premium Automatic movement 90S5 by Miyota
Unique box sapphire glass
Embellished caseback
28,800 vibrations / hour
Power reserve 40 hours
Waterproof to 3 ATM
316L high-polished 37mm stainless steel case
Thickness: 7mm (excl sapphire glass)
Black calf leather band with red/green/black embellished sides
20mm at lugs, 16mm at buckle
Made in Japan
3 exceptional urushi watches limited to 188 each (including those sold as a set), there will be no re-editions

Sales Process For Grand Urushi Aoyama

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The Grand Urushi Aoyama can only be ordered and picked up at the Kurono salon in Aoyama, Tokyo.

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