Friday, October 28, 2022

SPEAKE-MARIN – Temptation Ripples Anniversary Edition

SPEAKE-MARIN Temptation Ripples Gold Dial 20th Anniversary Edition 2022

 The new Ripples celebrates Speake-Marin turning 20
A new stylistic exercise

Last March, we were introduced to Ripples: the watch from the new Temptation collection featuring a case that is neither round nor square. A few months later, it is no longer just a question of shape and proportions, but also of style.

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Twenty years is the beginning of the life of a man, woman or brand. To celebrate its 20th birthday, the Maison is heralding this new decade with its Ripples watch, attired for this occasion in the most precious colour, with its undulations interpreted in yellow gold.

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By choosing this metal, Speake-Marin marks a break with the conventional codes of sport watches and asserts a design focused on aesthetic innovation and surprising elegance. It plays with light thanks to the shimmering effect of gold, which works just effectively on models with sportier looks. This anniversary version offers a timeless style and its own interpretation of luxury. The dial in its yellow gold iteration vividly highlights the luminous effects of the waves as well as the facets of the futuristic lines. The result is a unique watch face with aerodynamic shapes, that epitomises British style.

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There is nothing ordinary about the yellow gold of this ultra-sophisticated model gleaming with a subtle honey shade that brings a touch of authenticity and reassurance. This watch belongs to the category of bi-material or two-tone watches, stainless steel and gold. Thus attired, its new La City case is perfect for daily wear while retaining a radiant touch. It is at once sporty yet not overly so, chic and casual, versatile as well as extremely comfortable. A token of modernity and non-conformity, Ripples is intended for both men and women to whom it brings undeniable poise and style.

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Capable of developing, creating and assembling its own calibres, Speake-Marin has equipped this watch with the SMA03-T20 movement. "T" stands for "tradition" in reference to the traditional watchmaking expertise cultivated by the House and which is manifested in each timepiece.

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Providing a fascinating window on time, a sapphire crystal on the caseback reveals the complexity and beauty of the mechanism. Its integrated, self-winding micro-rotor is bead-blasted, circular satin-finished, chamfered and finally rhodium-plated. Endowed with a 52-hour power reserve, these timepieces are exceptionally well hand-finished by the artisans in our La Chaux-de-Fonds workshops.

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This exclusive 50-piece limited edition is a glowing addition to the Temptation collection and celebrates the 20th anniversary of Speake-Marin in due style.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: Temptation

Model: Temptation Ripples Anniversary Edition 

References - 604015070

CASE
LA CITY in stainless steel with screw-locked crown
Water-resistant to 5 bar (50 metres)
40.3 mm in diameter
9 mm thick
Front & Back sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective
coating
MOVEMENT
In-house Calibre SMA03-T20
, mechanical self-winding
with integrated micro-rotor
Frequency 4 Hz (28,800 v.p.h)
52-hour power reserve
135 components and 31 jewels
Geneva stripes, hand-finished inner angle and hand chamfering
DIAL
Exclusive Ripples finish in solid satin-brushed gold (20g)
Heart-shaped rhodium-plated hands
INDICATIONS
Hours, minutes and seconds. Small seconds between 1 and 2 o’clock
BRACELET
Integrated, in polished and satin-brushed stainless steel
Double folding clasp

 LIMITED EDITION  -  50 watches

🔴 Price :   € 35,340 EUR 💰

The Ripples watch comes in a sturdy and rolled veneer presentation box.
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Press Release - 2022
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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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www.Speake-Marin.com

Thursday, October 27, 2022

Patek Philippe – Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar

 

Patek Philippe – Ref. 5373P-001 Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar Platinum 2022

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph with perpetual calendar A highly exclusive timepiece for left-handers and connoisseurs of rarities

Patek Philippe is extending the broad palette of its chronographs and grand complications with the addition of a new timepiece literally made for the right-hand wrists of left-handers. With this goal in mind, the manufacture reinterpreted one of its most refined timepieces: the Ref. 5372 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph. The new Ref. 5373P-001 features a platinum case and modern looks that emphasize its sporty and contemporary style dial. This new model will be produced in small series, appealing especially to left-handers among the connoisseurs of elaborate mechanical movements and passionate watch collectors.

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In 2005, Patek Philippe leveraged its know-how in the field of short-time measurement by launching a new initiative: the manufacture developed a complete series of chronograph movements with and without additional functions. All of them were designed and produced in-house. The starting signal was given by the manually wound caliber CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest column-wheel-controlled split-seconds chronograph movement.

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The caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q launched in 2010 (with the same base movement plus an extremely thin calendar module) has a height of only 7.3 mm. It is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with perpetual calendar ever produced by the manufacture. Since 2017, this exceptional caliber has been crafted in very small numbers in line with venerable watchmaking traditions. It ticks in a platinum watch with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5372P-001) or a rose gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).

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Inspired by a one-of-a-kind piece sold by Patek Philippe in 1927, a custom-made cushion-shaped split-seconds chronograph (movement No. 198 012), the manufacture has now converted the Ref. 5372 into a new version for left-handers – a genuine debut in the recent history of the maison in Geneva. The exclusive Ref. 5373P-001 combines a split-seconds chronograph with one of the most elaborate functions – the perpetual calendar which stands emblematically for the grand complications of Patek Philippe.

Inverted displays and operating elements

With a diameter of 38.3 mm, the platinum case has the same size as the Ref. 5372 but its crown (with an integrated chronograph monopusher) is at 9 o'clock and the split-seconds pusher occupies an unusual position at 8 o'clock. 

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It preserves its timeless elegance with the polished, concave bezel that creates the perfect transition to the slightly domed sapphire-crystal back, the recessed and satin-finished case flanks, and the delicately curved strap lugs that merge with the bars almost seamlessly.

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The indications (counters and apertures) of the dial are rotated by 180°: the analog date at 12 o'clock, the subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock, the moon phases at 6 o'clock and the 60-minute counter at 9 o'clock, complemented by the aperture displays for the day of the week and the month as well as the leap year cycle at 10:30 and the day/night indicator at 1:30. Patek

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Philippe
has also reworked the aesthetic appeal of the dial, endowing it with a charcoal-colored aspect and a vertical satin-finish; it is ingeniously animated by a black gradation to the periphery and the snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials. The indication of the time is based on applied Arabic numerals and faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in white gold. The moon-phase display is extremely precise: it deviates from the actual lunar cycle by just one day every 122 years.

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For crisp legibility, the three chronograph hands from the center – chronograph and split-seconds hands as well as the 60-minute counter hand at 9 o'clock – are varnished red. The three chronograph commands (Start, Stop, and Reset) are selected with the monopusher in the crown at 9 o'clock. Stopping lap times with the split-seconds hand (rattrapante) is handled with the rectangular pusher at 8 o'clock.

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A sapphire- crystal display back (interchangeable with the solid-platinum back delivered with the watch) reveals the fantastic architecture of the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement with its two column wheels that bear two polished caps in the typical Patek Philippe style. The bridges, decorated with Geneva striping, are carefully chamfered and the edges are polished. A focus is also on the elegance of the form parts and the bridges à l’ancienne. Their acute internal angles can only be completed by hand, which calls for considerable dexterity and many years of experience.

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The sporty looks and modern attitude of the dial also applies to the black calfskin strap with an embossed textile texture and red contrast seams. It is secured with a platinum fold-over clasp.

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Like all of Patek Philippe’s platinum watches, the new Ref. 5373P-001 features a brilliant cut diamond in the caseband. As an exception for left-handers, it is set at 12 o'clock in this timepiece.

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From now on, this watch is the only remaining model with the caliber CHR 27-525 PS Q movement that was formerly available in the Ref. 5372P-001 and 5372P-010; both models have been retired from the collection.

An illustrious predecessor

Crafted in 1925-1926 on request for a left-handed customer and sold in 1927, this split-seconds chronograph with a cushion case in 18K yellow gold (34 x 34mm) and movement No. 198‘012 (diameter 13 lignes) stood out with its unusual arrangement of operating elements and displays. The case and the movement were rotated by 180° with the chronograph pusher at 9 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock and the split-seconds pusher at 8 o'clock instead 2 o’clock. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 The Art of Patek Philippe - Legendary watches, Habsburg, Feldman, Geneva, 9 April 1989, lot 290.
  Christie's Geneva Lot 266

The silver dial with black Brequet numerals was reconfigured to reposition the 30-minute chronograph counter from 3 to 9 o'clock and the subsidiary seconds from 9 to 3 o'clock. The uncommon shape of the chronograph and split-seconds hand with counterweights stands out as well.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collections: COMPLICATIONS

 Model: Grand Complications Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Ref. 5373P-001

Movement
Calibe CHR 27-525 PS Q
Manually wound mechanical movement, split-seconds chronograph with column wheel,
chronograph and split-seconds hand, 60-minute counter, and subsidiary seconds. 
Perpetual calendar with day, month, leap-year cycle and day/night indication in apertures, analog date. Moon phases.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Diameter:  27.3 mm
Height:  7.3 mm
(base movement: 5.25 mm; perpetual calendar: 2.05 mm)
Number of parts:  476
Number of jewels:  31
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours – max 48 hours
(with the chronograph uncoupled)
Balance:  Gyromax®
Frequency:  21,600
semi-oscillations per hour (3 Hz)
Balance spring:  Breguet

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Crown functions:
2-position crown
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
– Pulled out: To set the time and stop the seconds hand
Pushers:
• Pusher in the crown at 9 o'clock to start, stop, and reset chronograph
• Pusher at 8 o'clock to start and stop the split-seconds hand
Displays:
Center hour and minute hands
Sweep chronograph and split-seconds hands
Subsidiary dials:
• Subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock
• 60-minute counter at 9 o'clock
• Date at 12 o'clock
Display apertures:
• Day of week at 3 o'clock
• Month at 9 o'clock
• Day/night at 1:30
• Leap-year cycle at 10:30
• Moon phases at 6 o’clock
Correctors:
• Day of week between 2 and 3 o’clock
• Month between 6 and 7 o’clock
• Moon phase between 4 and 5 o’clock
• Date at 6 o'clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Hallmark:
Patek Philippe
Seal
Page 4
Features
Case
950 platinum
Delivered with solid platinum back and interchangeable sapphire-crystal display back
Water-resistant to 30 meters (3 bar)
Case dimensions:
Diameter: 38.3 mm
Height: 12.93 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
Dial
Dial in 18K gold, charcoal-colored with black gradation, vertical satin finish
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold
Faceted Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold
Arrow-shaped chronograph and split-seconds hands in Pfinodal, lacquered red, counterweighted 
Snailed ebony-black subsidiary dials:

  • Subsidiary seconds at 3 o'clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
  • 60-minute hand at 9 o'clock, white-gold baton hand, lacquered red
  • Date hand at 12 o'clock: White-gold baton hands, lacquered white
Strap
Black calfskin with embossed textile texture and contrasted red stitching,
platinum fold-over clasp

 Price  Price upon request

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Press Release - 2021
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PATEK PHILIPPE SA GENEVE
Chemin du Pont-du-Centenaire 141 1228 Plan-les-Ouates
P.O. Box 2654 – CH - 1211 Geneva 2 - Switzerland
Tel. + 41 22 884 20 20 – Fax + 41 22 884 25 47
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www.Patek.com