John-Mikaël Flaux – Homage to Al-Jazari - Edition

John-Mikaël Flaux – Homage to Al-Jazari Ingenious Mechanical Devices Limited Edition

Homage to al-Jazari, a unique watch
Ben & Brothers and John-Mikaël Flaux

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This one-of-a-kind creation has much more to offer than a classic watch. Created at a meeting point between the history of watchmaking, automata and sculpture, it brings all their features together, drawing on a masterpiece designed ten centuries ago and now recreated with masterful talent and expertise. 

 

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John-Mikaël Flaux took inspiration from the work of al-Jazari, the great Arab erudite to whom Leonardo Da Vinci has been compared, and whose creativity travelled through continents and times. A monument of poetry and technique, a dazzling piece of heritage, right there on your wrist.
 

Al-Jazari: a pioneering mind

With unrivalled creative genius and erudition, al-Jazari (1126-1206) gave life to the first known humanoid automata, water clocks and piston sets. As an inventor, he revolutionized engineering, hundreds of years before similar endeavours were carried out by like-minded polymaths of the Italian Cinquecento, or of the European Enlightenment period.

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His masterpiece still stands as the most extraordinary creation in the history of automata and clockmaking. The so-called Elephant clock appears in the only known written testimony of al-Jazari's work, the Book of knowledge of ingenious mechanical devices. 

 

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The enduring attraction of this fascinating clock is so compelling that modern replicas of it can be found all around the world: in the United Arab Emirates at the Ibn Battuta Centre of Dubai, in Germany at the Institute for the History of Arabic-Islamic Science of Frankfurt, or in Switzerland at the Watch Museum of Le Locle, among many others.

Creative and surprising

As is the case of many other al-Jazari creations, this automaton-clock is an artwork in itself, its technical sophistication only equalled by its refined aesthetics. 

 

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While most of al-Jazari’s automata serve a precise function, some of his inventions are simply playful and fun, following an aesthetics well-suited to the tradition of elegant hospitality and refined manners that were the fashion of his time.

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The elephant automaton is a brilliant illustration of this guiding principle. Made following the ancestral clepsydra system, its mechanical features are set in motion by a steady stream of water. 

 

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Hours appear at the top of the construction through a perforated arch, each opening filling with a different colour as time takes its course.

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This unique automated figure derives its movements from a mechanism hidden inside the elephant. A sinking counterpoise which, once entirely submerged, sets in motion a mechanical sequence releasing a ball from the beak of a falcon, which then falls into the mouth of a dragon, which tilts down under its weight.

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Once the dragon has reached its lowest point, it releases the ball into an urn, sounding the half-hour. Each repetition of this sequence colours one of the apertures on the pediment at the top of the tower.

 An unprecedented watchmaking feat

Today for the first time, a watch inspired by this pioneering automaton has been made. It brings together al-Jazari's original masterpiece with contemporary watchmaking expertise, adding John-Mikaël Flaux’s signature touch: a dash of emotion. 

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The notion of inheritance has always been at the centre of what watchmakers do. This tribute creation inherits its system from the course of the sun, taking us back to the fundamental observation of the world around us.

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At the top, perforated hour-symbolsset in a half-circle show the passing of hours.
This arch represents half a day (6am to 6pm, 6pm-6am).

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Starting from the usual time of sunrise, the perforated hour-symbols at the top progressively turn to white, one half at a time: the first half of each opening changes colour during the first half-hour, and the second half at the end of the hour. As the night draws in, the colour white is progressively replaced by the colour black.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

Each half-hour comes with an animated sequence: the left dragon slowly tilts back, as if it was a lever being pulled back. At the end of this sequence, it springs back to its original position, in a reinterpretation of the traditional watchmaking technique of the retrograde display.

 Click, to see the large size. ▶ BIG FOTO

The decoration of the watch, in the manner of the frontispiece of a luxurious palace, was inspired by the overall architecture of al-Jazari's masterpiece. In order to make the watch easier to read, an aperture displaying the hours and a central hand showing the minutes have been added.

Art & Haute Horlogerie

This watchmaking tour de force brings together high-precision mechanisms with outstanding expertise.

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Steel elements like the dragon tower at the centre of the watch have been bevelled by hand in the high watchmaking style, with the highly skilled and demanding technique of interior angle bevelling. The ornamental part of the domed dial around the six o'clock mark has also been entirely hand-bevelled with interior corners.
 
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The bridge on the dial is decorated with alacquered, oven-fired floral pattern inspired by al-Jazari's original design. The elephant is a hand-painted miniature. The painted silver dragons add a surprising effect of vibration to the composition.

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Our Homage to al-Jazari is signed directly onto the main plate of the complication, in the tradition of old watchmaking masters. 

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Each watch is completed with a hand-painted back showing the original drawing of the automation as it was presented in one of the rare 13thcentury surviving copies of al-Jazari's Book of Knowledge of Ingenious Mechanical Devices. 

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An opening at the back shows the heart of the object, beating at the traditional high watchmaking rhythm of 18'000 vibrations per hour, with a screw balancepolished in the chronometric tradition. The mechanism is set in a 42mm case with a movement providing a 40-hours power reserve.

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Homage to al-Jazari is an original creation by John-Mikaël Flaux, a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants(AHCI), in collaboration with the house Ben&Brothers , which specialises in bespoke creations.

 This is their second collaboration, after their 2021 Rearing horse automata "Le Cabré".

 

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Some key figures about "Homage to Al Jazari":

Movement: AJC-01
Automaton Watch
Winding: Manual
Dial and bridge
* Al Jazari hours display
* Pièce Métiers d'Arts
* Dragons hand-painted in silver
* Lacquered bridge
Features: 24-Hours and minutes 

Haute Horlogerie finishing:
     - Anglage rentrants
     - Handmade engraving
* Hand wind - 40h reserve power
* 18.000 Alt/h beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Case
Stainless steel case 42mm*13,30mm
Sapphire glass
Water resistance: Unavailable
Strap: Leather with pin buckle

•  John-Mikaël Flaux (AHCI member) and Ben & Brothers

 🔰Limited Edition Only ✅10 pieces

🔴 Price: CHF 49,000 before taxes

@John_Mikael_Flaux – Homage to Al-Jazari Ingenious Mechanical Devices Limited Edition  😎🤟🖤💥🌓⚡️💣
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@ben_and_brothers
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📸 photo by @manvswatch
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🔰 Edition of ✅only 10 pieces
🔴Price: CHF 49,000 before taxes
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🔳 #WatchesSeven 🧲👈
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#JohnMikaelFlaux 🇫🇷 #JohnMikaelFlauxwatch #HomagetoAlJazari #AlJazari ساعة# #AlJazari #ben_and_brothers #BenandBros #SunDisk #Handmade #UniqueDial #Sunrise #Engraving #WatchPorno #independentwatchmaking #independentwatches #independentwatchmaker #indpendentwatch #SkeletonWatches #HandEngraved #ManufactureCalibre #OpenworkedDial #EngravingWork #Hautehorlogerie #HandmadeFrance #Germanywatches #novelties2022
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An unprecedented watchmaking feat

The first time, a watch inspired by this pioneering automaton has been made. It brings together al-Jazari's original masterpiece with contemporary watchmaking expertise, adding John-Mikaël Flaux’s signature touch: a dash of emotion.
The notion of inheritance has always been at the centre of what watchmakers do. This tribute creation inherits its system from the course of the sun, taking us back to the fundamental observation of the world around us.

At the top, perforated hour-symbols set in a half-circle show the passing of hours.

This arch represents half a day (6am to 6pm, 6pm-6am). Starting from the usual time of sunrise, the perforated hour-symbols at the top progressively turn to white, one half at a time: the first half of each opening changes colour during the first half-hour, and the second half at the end of the hour. As the night draws in, the colour white is progressively replaced by the colour black.

Each half-hour comes with an animated sequence: the left dragon slowly tilts back, as if it was a lever being pulled back. At the end of this sequence, it springs back to its original position, in a reinterpretation of the traditional watchmaking technique of the retrograde display.

The decoration of the watch, in the manner of the frontispiece of a luxurious palace, was inspired by the overall architecture of al-Jazari's masterpiece.

In order to make the watch easier to read, an aperture displaying the hours and a central hand showing the minutes have been added.

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GIRARD-PERREGAUX – Laureato 38 mm Copper

 

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – LAUREATO 38mm Copper Dial Steel Automatic 2022

Mastering light

La Chaux-de-Fonds, October 20th, 2022 (10AM CET) - Girard-Perregaux is pleased to unveil the Laureato 38mm Copper, a mid-sized, unisex model with a fascinating dial. Termed `copper' the appearance of the dial is complex and dynamic, evincing different shades depending on the available light source. 

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With over 230 years history, Girard-Perregaux has amassed vast experience, skilfully utilising light for the delectation of watch aficionados. Despite being a new model, this latest creation remains a Laureato, a byword for ageless design since the inaugural version was first launched in 1975.

An appreciation of light

La Chaux-de-Fonds is the home of Girard-Perregaux as well as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The city has been dedicated to watchmaking since the 18th century. The streets, arranged in a grid-like pattern, are lined with tall buildings fitted with large windows. The architecture of the city was purposely designed to capture available natural light, a useful resource when working at a watchmaker's bench. For over 230 years, Girard-Perregaux has appreciated the value of natural light and its positive influence on the timepieces it continues to produce.

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With the arrival of the Laureato 38mm Copper, the Maison, once again, shows its capacity to master light. The dial is not merely a one-dimensional surface, but encompasses a Clous de Paris motif. This traditional pattern is composed of multiple pyramidal structures that engage with light, bestowing tiny pockets of brilliance and shade. 

Viewing an image of the dial does not adequately convey how it looks when affixed to the wrist. While the dial is termed 'copper', its dynamic character is far more complex, transitioning from tawny brown to pink-toned gold with multiple shades in between.

Reintroducing the 38mm with a new dial but reassuringly Laureato

Captivating onlookers with its metallic-themed dial, the Laureato 38mm Copper is mid-sized and unisex, sidestepping gender stereotypes. Baton-type hands and index enunciate the hours and minutes. These elements uphold the Laureato's timeless design language, much loved by purists since the inaugural model was unveiled in 1975. Both the hands and indexes are treated with luminescent material, augmenting readability in dim light.

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A golden central sweep seconds hand sits in harmony with the copper dial, reinforcing the metallic yet warm character of the composition. Moreover, the dial is complemented with the GP logo, again depicted in golden hues. The Maison's single bridge emblem makes an appearance, providing a respectful nod to the iconic movement of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges from the 1860s. 

Although the Laureato 38mm Copper is unequivocally new, its origins remain clear to see. The beloved octagonal bezel and fluid-like integrated bracelet, cascading downwards around the wrist, are signature details which continue to endure. Encased in stainless steel, the Laureato is a byword for versatility, proving suitable for all roles, whether sporty, casual or formal. It is this consistent approach to design which has endowed the Laureato with an ageless appearance that has remained immune to changing fashions.

An inner beauty

 Housed in a slender case, just 10mm in height, the Laureato 38mm Copper is equipped with a self-winding movement, the Calibre GP03300. Visible via a see-through case-back, the in-house movement is enriched with a plethora of refined details, perpetuating the Maison's reputation for exquisite finishing. 

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Some components feature no less than four different decorations ranging from bevelling, mirror-polishing, satin finish, snailing, sunray finish to various engravings. The bridges are decorated with straight Cotes de Geneve and the pink gold oscillating weight is embellished with circular Cotes de Geneve.

Laureato, a lesson in design

In terms of design, the 1970s were extraordinary. Creativity imbued a variety of objects with timeless aesthetics and notable functionality. This prowess for design was manifest with the styling of several highly original watches and the era continues to be acknowledged for its visionary approach to design. Indeed, during this era, several prestigious brands released watches encased in steel with integrated bracelets. However, only a few designs from this period have retained their eye appeal despite the onset of years.  

From the outset, the design of the Laureato united a number of different shapes to form a distinctive, yet cohesive, look. Each Laureato comprises an octagonal bezel that sits atop a circular ring which in turn is positioned above an angular tonneau-shaped case. But despite having geometric, clean-cut lines, the Laureato's case also has a gentle character, reminiscent of a rock shaped by nature and devoid of harshness. Throughout the composition there is an exquisite interplay between polished and satin finished surfaces. Both finishes are clearly defined and discrete from one another, thereby optimising the effect. Lastly, the exterior is completed with an integrated bracelet that ergonomically hugs the wearer's wrist, bestowing a comfortable fit. It is this assemblage of contrasting forms that has led to the Laureato's unique profile, making it instantly recognisable when viewed from afar.

At the time of its launch in 1975, the inaugural watch was called the 'Quartz Chronometer'. However, in Italy, the model soon became known among the cognoscenti as the the graduate (Laureato in Italian) of the school of Girard-Perregaux'. This affectionate name served as an acknowledgement of the model's prize-winning success and extraordinary precision. Ultimately, the name was adopted by the Maison. Coincidentally, the octagonal bezel sits atop the case, like a laurel crown sits upon the head of a laureate.

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Over the years, subtle changes have been made to the design of the Laureato, but the essence of the original 1975 model has always been retained. In 2017, Girard-Perregaux released the fifth generation of the Laureato, a design that has been adopted for the new Laureato 38mm Copper.

There are some iconic buildings, cars and items of furniture produced during the 1970s that will always remain timeless exemplars of accomplished design. The Laureato, an in-house design, could be considered a worthy member of this exclusive club.

Swiss know-how

Innovation has always been at the heart of Girard-Perregaux's culture ever since it was founded in 1791. During the 1970s, the Swiss brand was at the vanguard of quartz timekeeping, a technology that promised a future of unprecedented precision. In fact, the frequency of 32,768 Hz was set by the Maison and subsequently adopted as the universal standard for quartz watches. 

It was perhaps inevitable that the inaugural Laureato of 1975 was equipped with an in-house, COSC-certified quartz movement, the Calibre 705. During this period, most of the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry was in decline, ill-prepared for the shift to battery-powered timepieces.

Quartz watches remain attractive to many clients, however, Girard-Perregaux has also produced in-house mechanical movements for over 230 years, a claim few other watch brands can make. In 1995, as mechanical watchmaking began to enjoy a renaissance, Girard-Perregaux released the Laureato 8010 fitted with an in-house automatic calibre. Today, the Laureato 34mm is fitted with a quartz movement, while the 38mm, 42mm and 44mm models all feature in-house mechanical movements.

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The 81005 Copper will be the only 38mm in the Laureato permanent collection. It will go on sale in December 2022 and will be available worldwide in limited quantities through all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: LAUREATO 38MM Copper

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 Reference: 81005-11-3154  

Movement
Calibre GP01800-2034
Self-winding mechanical movement
Diameter: 25.95mm (111/2’’’)
Height: 3.36mm
Frequency: 28,800 Vib/h – (4Hz)
Number of components: 218
Number of jewels: 27
Power reserve: min. 46 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, central seconds, date
Case
Material: Steel, polished and satin finished
Diameter: 38.00mm
Height: 10.00mm
Glass: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Dial
Sunray copper with a 'Clous de Paris' pattern, 
Hands: 'baton' type rhodium-plated indexes with luminescent material (white emission), gold-plated GP logo
Water resistance: 100 metres (10ATM)
Bracelet
Bracelet Material: steel, polished and satin finished

🔴Retail price
GBP 11’500 / CHF 14’200 / USD 14’900 / EUR 15’000

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Press release - 2022
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Girard-Perregaux Press Contact :
Leopoldo Celi
Head of Communication and Brand Image
+41 (0)79 303 50 72
leopoldo.celi@girard-perregaux.com

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Press Contact:
Manager: Steve Cooper
Senior Partner Media Officer
+44 7408 807885
mailto:Stephen.Cooper@astonmartinf1.com

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