Thursday, September 22, 2022

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT 44 mm Titanium



AUDEMARS PIGUETROYAL OAK Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT Titanium 44 Green Ceramic Bezel 2022
 
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 NEW THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT FLYING TOURBILLON GMT TAKES ON GREEN HUES
Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to present a new animation of its Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT in 44 mm.  
Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOFor the first time, the complicated timepiece’s titanium case is topped off with a green ceramic bezel for a highly contemporary look. 
 
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The black architectural movement, visible through the dial and sapphire caseback, features green CVD-coloured inserts matching with the bezel’s hue – a powerful contrast furthering the watch’s high-tech aesthetic.

STYLISED GREEN ACCENTS

The new Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT model encompasses a sandblasted titanium case enriched with a bezel, crown and push-piece, all crafted in green ceramic and finished by hand with an alternation of satin-brushing and polished chamfers. 

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Although green ceramic was first introduced at Audemars Piguet in the Royal Oak Offshore collection in 2018, this material makes its first appearance this year on the Royal Oak Concept.

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Zirconium Oxide (ZrO2) powder, modified to obtain a green pigmentation once baked, is mixed with dedicated binder content before being transformed into ceramic through a complex industrial flow requiring different stages of high-precision machining. The exact composition of ceramic remains the secret of its manufacturers. 

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The components achieve their final green colour only once they have been sintered at more than 1,400°C. Reaching a homogeneous colour represents an additional challenge as ceramic’s final colour depends on the sintering temperature, which allows no variation. 

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The Le Brassus artisans have then finished each ceramic component with the same detailed and meticulous hand-finished as they would if they were honed from precious metals, endowing the timepiece with a rich play of light.

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As per Royal Oak Concept design codes, the architectural movement ticking within takes centre stage on both the dial and caseback sides. To further enhance the introduction of green ceramic, the hand-wound Calibre 2954 has evolved to contrast the movement’s black PVD bridges with evocative green CVD-coloured inserts. 

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A very thin layer of green colouring, specifically developed for the occasion, has been applied by Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). A precursor gas is injected into a chamber, which is then heated until the gas breaks down and bonds to the surface of the different elements. In addition to offering a rich play of light, this technique ensures colour homogeneity across the components, as well as unalterable colouration over time.

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The timepiece’s contrasting tones are illuminated by pink gold accents. The pink gold hands filled with luminescent coating and the applied AP monogram at 12 o’clock are echoed by the pink-gold-toned flying tourbillon cage and escapement components peeking through the openworked bridges.

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The transferred white hour-markers on the black inner bezel add yet another bright touch.

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A green rubber strap, fitted with a sandblasted titanium AP folding clasp, completes the watch’s avant-garde design. The timepiece also comes with an additional black rubber strap.

THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT TURNS 20

The Royal Oak Concept saw the light of day in 2002 to celebrate the Royal Oak’s 30th anniversary. For the occasion, Audemars Piguet released a 150-piece limited edition inspired by Concept cars that combined titanium with Alacrite 602, a light yet highly resistant alloy mainly used in the aeronautical industry. While the bezel retained the Royal Oak’s trademark octagonal shape, the massive rounded 44 mm case, whose ergonomic curvature matched the natural shape of the wrist, brought this timepiece to new horizons. To complement the case’s futuristic aesthetic, the dial exposed the advanced hand-wound mechanism, while providing a variety of innovative functions: a crown position indicator, a dynamograph displaying the mainspring torque and a linear power-reserve display. The tourbillon cage and its shock-absorbing bridge was also visible at 9 o’clock.

Although originally conceived as a one-off limited edition, the Royal Oak Concept established an entirely new aesthetic for 21st-century Haute Horlogerie and led to the creation of a collection. In 2008, Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Carbon Concept Tourbillon and Chronograph in a pioneering case made of forged carbon, ceramic and titanium, while the movement ticking within premiered the use of carbon components. A platform of experimentation ever since, the Royal Oak Concept has seen the addition of unyielding materials, avant-garde designs and innovative complications attuned to the timepiece’s futuristic identity.

In 2011, Audemars Piguet launched its first Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT in a case crafted in titanium and black ceramic. The dial showcased the openworked movement’s tourbillon cage, blackened hour-glass-shaped upper bridge, crown position and second time zone indications. The Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT witnessed another evolution in 2014 with the release of a variation uniting titanium with white ceramic.

In 2015, Audemars Piguet released the patented Royal Oak Concept Laptimer in collaboration with Michael Schumacher, the first mechanical timepiece able to measure multiple consecutive lap times on the racetrack. This watch also represented the first collaborative venture of the collection. The same year, the Manufacture unveiled its Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie prototype, also known as RD#1. This patented technology resulted from eight years of research in collaboration with EPFL, the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne and a host of experts, including musicians, to recover the acoustic tonality of older chiming watches.

In 2018, Audemars Piguet launched its first Royal Oak Concept Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked, with three models in white, blue and red hues. The same year, the Manufacture also premiered its first ever flying tourbillon in the Royal Oak Concept collection, fitted on the first Royal Oak Concept for women – a line of powerful 38.5 mm models originally covered in diamonds. The flying tourbillon also equipped the latest GMT movement cased in a timepiece interweaving titanium and black ceramic. This new generation of Flying Tourbillon GMT powered by Calibre 2954 introduced a new movement aesthetic with asymmetrical blackened titanium bridges enriched with pink-gold-toned accents. A new version of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT followed in 2020 featuring a titanium case, a grey ceramic bezel and an architectural movement juxtaposing electric blue ALD-coloured (atomic layer deposition) bridges and slate grey inserts.

The flying tourbillon took on a marvelous air in 2021 with the release of the 250-piece limited edition Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon in 42 mm to mark the beginning of the brand’s long-term partnership with Marvel.

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Inspired by the universe of Black Panther, the watch’s case associated titanium with black ceramic in a unique aesthetic recalling the cutting-edge suit of Marvel’s hero. For its part, the dial featured a highly contemporary hand-painted rendition of Black Panther comprised of white gold.

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20 years on, the Royal Oak Concept collection continues to chart new territories with new materials, colours, contrasts and more to come in 2023.

 Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”


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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT

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 Reference: 26589IO.OO.D056CA.01

Movement
Hand-wound Manufacture Calibre 2954

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Frequency of balance wheel (Hz): 3 (=21,600 vibrations /h)
Total diameter: 35.60 mm (15 ¾ lignes)
Number of jewels: 24
Power reserve: 237 h (10 days)
Number of parts: 348

Functions
Flying tourbillon, GMT 24h, functions selection, hours and minutes.
Complications: Tourbillon
Case
Sandblasted titanium
Size: 44 mm
Thickness: 16.1 mm
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, green ceramic bezel,
green ceramic push-piece and screw-locked crown, sandblasted titanium push-piece guards.
Water Resistance: 100 m
Dial
Openworked
Second time-zone indicator at 3 o’clock on sapphire plate,
crown position indicator at 6 o’clock,
flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock
Pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, black inner bezel.
Bracelet
Green rubber strap with sandblasted titanium AP folding clasp.
Additional black rubber strap


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Press Release - 2022
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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Wednesday, September 21, 2022

Jaquet Droz – DRAGON Automaton John Howe - Unique piece


Jaquet DrozATELIERS D'ART DRAGON Automaton John Howe Edition - Unique piece 2022

Jaquet Droz takes personalization to new heights

The culmination of three years of work. A unique collaboration in watchmaking. A custom-made creation that embodies the vision of Jaquet Droz by bringing the extraordinary and the wonderful to life.

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The name John Howe is not the most well-known, but most are familiar with his universe and designs: John Howe is the artistic designer for Peter Jackson's "The Lord of the Rings" and "The Hobbit" trilogies. A fantasy prodigy who has lived in Neuchâtel for 30 years, and who is once again in the spotlight with "The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power", which will be released on September 2nd.

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Jaquet Droz and John Howe have much in common - the ability to create extraordinary worlds, to give life to wonderful things and emotions, to create animations that speak to the heart and soul - and this is what has brought them together. The ability to astonish, to amaze, to move.

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Together, Jaquet Droz and John Howe worked as they have always done - with paper, pencil, and lots of ideas. The theme of their watchmaking collaboration soon became clear: the Dragon. It traverses John Howe's universe as it does millennia, cultures and continents.

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Jaquet Droz
wanted this Dragon to be alive. And beyond that, with a total of 9 animations, it is probably one of the most complex modern automaton watches ever designed. The sequence that animates it is random, in order to preserve all its magic and mystery. The sacred animal's spine undulates like its tail; its eye and jaw open and close; its tongue moves; its crest rises and falls; its claws grasp a continuously rotating stone.

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In accordance with the new Jaquet Droz Vision 8.0, the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds now only produce unique orders for clients who are themselves unique.

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The 43 mm case is finished in the gold of your choice, and Jaquet Droz is already working on the opportunity of using other materials, such as sapphire. The case can either be engraved or left blank. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO The solid dial can be fully customized, engraved or replaced by a medallion in the stone of your choice. The Dragon, also made of gold and entirely engraved by hand, can have its scales more or less accentuated. It would be futile to list all the possibilities, as they are nearly limitless.

In addition, Jaquet Droz is currently finalizing a brand new phygital solution, installed right in the heart of its head quarter. Open and connected, it will allow clients to see their own Dragon Automatons being created. 

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This immersive experience is a secret door to some of the richest Métiers d'Art in Fine Watchmaking. They are masterpieces of unique watches with very high added value, embodying the Philosophy of the Unique that has guided the disruptive spirit of Jaquet Droz since 1738.

  “Some watches tell time, some tell a story.”


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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS


Collection  ATELIERS D'ART

Model:  DRAGON Automaton John Howe Edition

Reference : Red Gold 43

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Reference J0327330011 
Movement Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, flat bridges, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight with signature JH and black treatment. Automaton with animation of different parts of the dragon, push-button automaton triggering mechanism.
Indications Off-centered hours and minutes
Jewelling 78 rubies for the automaton movement + 29 rubies for the hour and minute movement
Power reserve 38 hours
Frequency 21,600 v.p.h.
Case Hand-engraved 18-karat red gold case, with black treatment in the engraving. Diameter 43 mm. Height 16.96 mm. Customization, identified as a unique piece by a hand-engraving on the case-back.
Diameter 43 mm
Water resistance To 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial Onyx dial and subdial, mountain decor in 18-karat white gold and hand-painted, engraved mother-of-pearl. Dragon elements in hand-engraved 18-karat red gold with gray treatment. Hand-painted steel eye and tongue. Labradorite ball.
Hands 18-karat red gold
Strap Rolled-edge by hand black alligator
Buckle 18-karat red gold folding clasp

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Reference J0327330031  
Movement Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, flat bridges, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight with JH signature and black treatment. Automaton with animation of different parts of the dragon, push-button automaton triggering mechanism.
Indications Off-centered hours and minutes
Jewelling 78 rubies for the automaton movement + 29 rubies for the hour and minute movement
Power reserve 38 hours
Frequency 21,600 v.p.h.
Case Hand-engraved 18-karat red gold case. Diameter 43 mm. Height 16.96 mm. Customization, identified as a unique piece by a hand-engraving on the case-back.
Diameter 43 mm
Water resistance To 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial White mother-of-pearl openworked dial and subdial. Hand-engraved dragon elements in 18-karat red gold. Hand-painted steel eye and tongue. Labradorite ball.
Hands 18-karat red gold
Strap Red rubber
Buckle 18-karat red gold folding clasp
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 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Reference J0327330041 
Movement Jaquet Droz 6150, self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, flat bridges, 18-karat red gold oscillating weight with JH signature and black treatment. Automaton with animation of different parts of the dragon, push-button automaton triggering mechanism.
Indications Off-centered hours and minutes
Jewelling 78 rubies for the automaton movement + 29 rubies for the hour and minute movement
Power reserve 38 hours
Frequency 21,600 v.p.h.
Case 18-karat red gold case. Diameter 43 mm. Height 16.96 mm. Customization, identified as a unique piece by a hand-engraving on the case-back.
Diameter 43 mm
Water resistance To 3 bar (30 meters)
Dial Onyx openworked dial and subdial. Hand-engraved dragon elements in 18-karat red gold. Hand-painted steel eye and tongue. Labradorite ball.
Hands 18-karat red gold
Strap Black rubber
Buckle 18-karat red gold folding clasp

  Limited Edition  to Unique only 1 pieces

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Press Release - 2022
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MONTRES JAQUET DROZ SA
Allée du Tourbillon 2
CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2
· press@jaquet-droz.com
tel +41 32 924 28 72 · fax +41 (0)32 924 28 82
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