Tuesday, August 9, 2022

LOUIS MOINET – Cosmic Art MARS MISSION Edition

 

LOUIS MOINETCosmic Art MARS MISSION Stainless Steel Edition 2022

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 MARS MISSION

“There are 77 government space agencies to date, and knowledge of Mars has become a priority for humanity” Jean-Marie Schaller

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Why is the cosmic world so important to Louis Moinet?

Louis Moinet invented the chronograph in 1816, to meet the needs of his astronomical observations. This hitherto unknown instrument was indeed associated with the unit of measurement of his astronomical transit instrument: the tierce, which corresponds to 1/60th of a second.

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 The Louis Moinet’s Chronograph, 1816

Why “Mars Mission”?
 
Louis Moinet was a trailblazer and wanted to develop a better knowledge of the universe through his astronomical observations. 

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The same can be said of the programmes aimed at Mars, which are probably the next step in the conquest of space.

Mars Mission, a character-filled creation

This modern timepiece aims to combine the visionary talent of the inventor of the chronograph and high frequency with contemporary architectural work. 

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The essential elements are outlined below.

The dial – a witness to the conquest of space

The dial pays tribute to the first detailed photos of Mars taken in 1965 by the first Mars flyby probe: Mariner 4. 

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The engraving results from hand-crafted hammering creating pleasing contrasts on the surface of the planet. The finish features two light and dark tones resulting from a light black patina achieved after the dial was copper-plated.

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It has an opening between 8 o'clock and 12 o'clock, revealing each beat of its exclusive calibre including the escapement operating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations/hour, as well as the off-centre seconds hand. Everything is arranged to ensure that the eye loses nothing of intricate workings of this MARS MISSION watch.

 Mars – an authentic Martian meteorite fragment

Louis Moinet offers exclusive real fragments of Mars. This is an extremely rare and precious material, as only 277 Martian meteorites are known to exist worldwide.

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Martian meteorite

After being torn from the Martian crust probably millions of years ago, this meteorite drifted through interplanetary space, travelling millions of kilometres, before finally being captured by the Earth's gravity and landing in the Jiddat al Harasis Desert in Oman


It has now been transformed into an objet d’art, sculpted by the expert hands of Daniel Haas and suspended above the void, protected by an anodised aluminium capsule with a shiny black base to make the red planet stand out.

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Martian meteorite becomes an artwork

The hour-markers – light and radiance

Representing an essential stylistic element in this creation, the hour-markers involve an extremely sophisticated manufacture process. Each features three variously shaped facets designed to make the light dance over them. The flank features a diamond and satin-finished part to endow the dial with a deep radiance. The colour contrast is accentuated by its black PVD base and the lacquer in its centre.

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The real accomplishment was to keep them suspended above the void, with the clear intention of creating a strong perspective. This virtuoso craftsmanship enables them to be linked to a central ring and to the inner bezel ring.

The self-winding calibre – function & style

The finishing of the movement is based on the noble traditions of fine watchmaking: Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished chamfers, circular satin-finished wheels, circular graining. 

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The sapphire caseback reveals the movements of the rotor mounted on ball bearings. 

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The Clous de Paris motif dear to Louis Moinet in the 19th century has been reinterpreted in a concentric version, giving an impression of movement.

The Neo case – a watch industry trailblazer

The Mars Mission case has been christened Neo, as its novel technical solutions have created a silhouette that is unprecedented in watchmaking.

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Everything is built around two vertical bridges that cross the piece to accommodate the strap at each end of their openworked lugs. These bridges enclose the movement container, which is dominated by the six-screw bezel, one of Louis Moinet's trademarks.

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Its alligator leather strap is secured by a folding clasp adorned with the curved Fleur de Lys, the symbol of Louis Moinet.

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Technical Specifications 

 Collection:  Cosmic Art

Model:  MARS MISSION Edition

Ref.  LM-75.10.MA-C

Movement
Automatic Calibre LM45 : High precision automatic movement.
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 22
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Type: Self-winding mechanism | Balance with screws
Oscillating mass: Bi-material | 6 ball bearings | Adorned with concentric "Clous de Paris" hobnail pattern and "Fleur de Lys
Finishes:
Mainplate: circular “Côtes de Genève” hobnail pattern, circular satin-finished and circular-grained
Self-winding bridge: circular graining, diamond-polished chamfers, engraved and gilded Louis Moinet symbols
Gear trains: circular satin-finished
Dial 
Theme: Depiction of the surface of Mars
Engraving: Hammering | Copper plating | Patina
Capsule at 3 o'clock Mars meteorite fragment | Red anodised aluminium
Index: Suspended above the dial | Black PVD treatment, diamond-polished and satin-brushed flanks
Case
Diameter: 45.4 mm
Design with two-part bezel and 6 screws, assembled at a 17° angleOriginal Louis Moinet® design featuring six-screw bezel
Original design by Louis Moinet®, made up of 59 parts
Case material:
316l Stainless steel
Water resistance: 50 metres
Caseback: Secured with 6 screws, engraved with individual number and Louis Moinet markings
Crystals: Two anti-reflective sapphire crystals
Patent-pending crown guard
Sapphire crystal and back | Glareproofed on both sides
Width between lugs: 24 mm
Strap
Material: Louisiana alligator leather | Alligator lining, hand-sewn
Clasp: Triple-blade folding clasp | Steel with black PVD finish | Fine adjustment | Curved "Fleur de Lys"
 
  • Limited Edition  to only 100 pieces
 
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Press Release - 2022
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Monday, August 8, 2022

CARTIER – Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Edition

 

CARTIER ROTONDE DE CARTIER Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Limited Edition 2022

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Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

At Cartier, time is not only an objective fact, but also, and above all, a mystery that the Maison continues to explore. Everything, including the most advanced techniques, are designed around the aesthetics allowing our mysterious complications to play with illusion and the perception of time.

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New Fine Watchmaking enigma at Cartier: the Masse Mystérieuse. A spectacular watch that turns to the rhythm of an original movement created by the Fine Watchmaking Manufacture. 

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What is the “mystery”? Its beating heart, the magic of a mobile calibre condensed into a semi-circle, transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight.

Two maison signatures

The Masse Mystérieuse watch brings together two of the Maison’s watchmaking signatures: the mysterious movement and the skeleton. Everything, right down to the technology, is infused with design and aesthetics. 

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Since the mystery clocks first appeared in the 1910s, the movement has not only been miniaturised to fit watch cases but, for this new creation, it has also been reimagined to make the oscillating weight a real ornament.

A new movement
the result of eight years of research
 

The new calibre 9801 MC ensures the effects of gravity do not affect the chronometer. The result of nearly eight years of work at the Cartier Manufacture, where it was designed, developed and assembled, this movement has now been filed for a patent. It took five different constructions before a prototype could be launched, with two further prototypes needed to develop the final version of the calibre. 

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On the Masse Mystérieuse watch, the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears. More than that: the whole movement also seems weightless. All components that receive energy from the movement, transmission and regulation are integrated in the rotor. The rotor itself is skeletonised to make this moving spectacle visible.

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In the centre, an ultra-sophisticated differential system - borrowed from the automotive industry - has been integrated into the movement to prevent the time display from being caught in the mass. A technical feat that comes to life at the slightest touch of the wearer and seamlessly displays the time to the rhythm of the hands in the void. 

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On this piece, the most technical and complex piece ever developed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers, the mysterious rotor uses an innovative principle that ensures the balance wheel always remains in the same vertical position. For this to happen, the rotor rotates in both directions at an irregular speed.

A brief history of the mystery

Mystery clocks make up their own chapter in the Maison’s history. We say “mystery” because their hands appear to float over the transparent body of the clock, with no connection to the movement. The first Cartier mystery clocks were introduced in 1912

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They bear witness to Cartier’s aesthetic vision and made the Maison famous in the early 20th century. These “miracles of timekeeping”, as they were called by the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton in 1925, are the fruit of collaboration between Louis Cartier and an exceptional clockmaker, Maurice Couet. The latter was not even 25 years old when he was first noticed by Cartier, and was already highly experienced.

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From 1911, he became Cartier’s exclusive supplier. The first mystery clock, dubbed Model A, left the workshops in 1912. Maurice Couet took his inspiration from the clocks of the famous illusionist and father of modern magic, Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. The principle, which he adapted and developed, is based on an ingenious concept: the hands are not directly linked to the movement, but are attached to two crystal discs fitted with serrated metal edges. 

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Activated by the movement, which is usually housed in the clock’s base, these discs then turn the hands, one for the minutes hand and the other for the hours hand. So that the illusion is perfect, the edges of the discs are concealed by the hour circle.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model : Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Edition

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 Ref. WHRO0082

Limited edition :     Numbered limited edition of 30 pieces

A version in platinum set with baguette-cut diamonds, as well as a version set with baguette-cut diamonds and a platinum bracelet set with baguette-cut diamonds are also available.
Cartier jewellery is made with gold 750/1000 and platinum 950/1000. The indicated carat weight of the centre stones may vary slightly.


Case
Platinum 950/1000
Diameter:    43.5 mm
Thickness :    12.64 mm
Crown :    Set with a ruby cabochon
Movement    
Calibre 9801 MC

Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding
Encasing diameter :    17 lines ½
Total dimension :    39,6 mm
Thickness :    7,3 mm
Number of  jewels :    43
Frequency :    28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve :    42 hours
Bracelet    
Semi-matt dark grey and black alligator leather

Limited edition of 30 pieces

 ✅ Price : € 250.000 / 270.000 USD 💰

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Press release- 2022
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