Monday, August 8, 2022

CARTIER – Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Edition

 

CARTIER ROTONDE DE CARTIER Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Limited Edition 2022

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Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

At Cartier, time is not only an objective fact, but also, and above all, a mystery that the Maison continues to explore. Everything, including the most advanced techniques, are designed around the aesthetics allowing our mysterious complications to play with illusion and the perception of time.

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New Fine Watchmaking enigma at Cartier: the Masse Mystérieuse. A spectacular watch that turns to the rhythm of an original movement created by the Fine Watchmaking Manufacture. 

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What is the “mystery”? Its beating heart, the magic of a mobile calibre condensed into a semi-circle, transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight.

Two maison signatures

The Masse Mystérieuse watch brings together two of the Maison’s watchmaking signatures: the mysterious movement and the skeleton. Everything, right down to the technology, is infused with design and aesthetics. 

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Since the mystery clocks first appeared in the 1910s, the movement has not only been miniaturised to fit watch cases but, for this new creation, it has also been reimagined to make the oscillating weight a real ornament.

A new movement
the result of eight years of research
 

The new calibre 9801 MC ensures the effects of gravity do not affect the chronometer. The result of nearly eight years of work at the Cartier Manufacture, where it was designed, developed and assembled, this movement has now been filed for a patent. It took five different constructions before a prototype could be launched, with two further prototypes needed to develop the final version of the calibre. 

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On the Masse Mystérieuse watch, the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears. More than that: the whole movement also seems weightless. All components that receive energy from the movement, transmission and regulation are integrated in the rotor. The rotor itself is skeletonised to make this moving spectacle visible.

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In the centre, an ultra-sophisticated differential system - borrowed from the automotive industry - has been integrated into the movement to prevent the time display from being caught in the mass. A technical feat that comes to life at the slightest touch of the wearer and seamlessly displays the time to the rhythm of the hands in the void. 

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On this piece, the most technical and complex piece ever developed by the Manufacture’s watchmakers, the mysterious rotor uses an innovative principle that ensures the balance wheel always remains in the same vertical position. For this to happen, the rotor rotates in both directions at an irregular speed.

A brief history of the mystery

Mystery clocks make up their own chapter in the Maison’s history. We say “mystery” because their hands appear to float over the transparent body of the clock, with no connection to the movement. The first Cartier mystery clocks were introduced in 1912

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They bear witness to Cartier’s aesthetic vision and made the Maison famous in the early 20th century. These “miracles of timekeeping”, as they were called by the fashion magazine La Gazette du Bon Ton in 1925, are the fruit of collaboration between Louis Cartier and an exceptional clockmaker, Maurice Couet. The latter was not even 25 years old when he was first noticed by Cartier, and was already highly experienced.

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From 1911, he became Cartier’s exclusive supplier. The first mystery clock, dubbed Model A, left the workshops in 1912. Maurice Couet took his inspiration from the clocks of the famous illusionist and father of modern magic, Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. The principle, which he adapted and developed, is based on an ingenious concept: the hands are not directly linked to the movement, but are attached to two crystal discs fitted with serrated metal edges. 

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Activated by the movement, which is usually housed in the clock’s base, these discs then turn the hands, one for the minutes hand and the other for the hours hand. So that the illusion is perfect, the edges of the discs are concealed by the hour circle.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model : Rotonde de Cartier Masse Mystérieuse Platinum Edition

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 Ref. WHRO0082

Limited edition :     Numbered limited edition of 30 pieces

A version in platinum set with baguette-cut diamonds, as well as a version set with baguette-cut diamonds and a platinum bracelet set with baguette-cut diamonds are also available.
Cartier jewellery is made with gold 750/1000 and platinum 950/1000. The indicated carat weight of the centre stones may vary slightly.


Case
Platinum 950/1000
Diameter:    43.5 mm
Thickness :    12.64 mm
Crown :    Set with a ruby cabochon
Movement    
Calibre 9801 MC

Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding
Encasing diameter :    17 lines ½
Total dimension :    39,6 mm
Thickness :    7,3 mm
Number of  jewels :    43
Frequency :    28,800 vibrations/hour
Power reserve :    42 hours
Bracelet    
Semi-matt dark grey and black alligator leather

Limited edition of 30 pieces

 ✅ Price : € 250.000 / 270.000 USD 💰

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Press release- 2022
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www.Cartier.com

Friday, August 5, 2022

VOUTILAINEN – 216TMZ World Timer "Ji-Ku" Edition

 

VOUTILAINEN Current 216TMZ " Ji-Ku" WORLD TIMER Platinum Edition - Unique Piece 2022

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A unique Voutilainen timepiece 

One of the greatest lacquer artist of Japan, Tatsuo Kitamura, creates works of lacquer art that stand at the pinnacle of Japanese tradition. 

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It brings a craft that has existed for hundreds of years into the present, exemplifying the passion to preserve the soul, spirit and identity of traditional Japanese culture as expressed in the Edo period.

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This superlative work engages us immediately on a physical level and one can only stand in awe at the commitment, patience and dedication required to create these works of art. 

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The dial shown here, using the techniques of lacquering with Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).

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This symbiosis of Japanese tradition with the Swiss haute horlogerie creations of Kari Voutilainen represents an all-embracing mechanical and visual work of art that unites the East and West in perfect harmony.

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Technical Characteristics

Categories: Current Collection

Model: 216TMZ World Timer "Ji-Ku

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Ref.   216TMZ 1/1

Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Indication of hours, minutes and display of a second time with towns and peripheral 24-hour disc. 
Quick crown correction  
Design, construction, fabrication, finishing and assembly in Voutilainen workshops.
- In-house movement.
- 30mm x 6.00mm movement
- New escapement, with two escapement wheels, direct impulse.
- Adjustable weight made of 18K rose gold  
- Fleece plunge type
- Made of 18K white gold  
- Blue steel applied ring
- Wheels manufactured from 18K rose gold.
- 44 jewels
- Integrated retrograde power reserve indication.
- Power reserve: 60h
- Free sprung balance wheel with rose gold timing weights
- 18.000 variations / hours
Balance diameter 13.60mm,
With Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve.
Case
Platinum Pt 950 and crown Unique case design
Size ø 39 mm
Thickness 11.30 mm
Sapphire glasses front and back, anti reflection treatment on both sides
Waterproofness 30 m 
Functions
Hours, minutes and Worldtime
Display of a second time with towns and peripheral 24-hour
Dial
Unique art piece created by the legendary Japanese lacquer studio
lacquer technique by Saiei Makie and Somata zaiku takes several months of work to complete. 
The raw materials for its creation are: Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (shell of great green turban) and Awabi-gai (abalone shell from New Zealand).
Hands  White gold and steel, hand made
Strap
Hand sewn crocodile strap with platinum buckle


Additionals
All design, manufacturing, construction, fabrication, hand finishing and assembly in the Voutilainen workshop.

Year 2022

Limited to 1 unique piece.
Price   365'000 CHF

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Press Release - 2022
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Kari Voutilainen
Voutilainen Horlogerie d’Art
Comblémine 2
2112 Môtiers | Switzerland
Tél +41 32 861 4832
Fax +41 32 861 4833
voutilainen@voutilainen.ch
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www.Voutilainen.ch