Friday, July 8, 2022

GRONEFELD – 1941 Gronograaf Edition


GRÖNEFELD 1941 Grönograaf Edition 2022

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It was perhaps inevitable that Bart Grönefeld, would follow in the footsteps of his forefathers and become a watchmaker. Having completed his studies at the technical school in his home town of Oldenzaal, Bart enrolled at the school for watch technicians in Rotterdam. 

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Already passionate about watchmaking, Bart’s fascination for horology grew exponentially when he attended WOSTEP in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. It was here that his teacher, Mr Antoine Simonin, showed the young man various pocket watches equipped with different complications. 

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One particular pocket watch that Bart saw, featured steel bridges, a detail that provided the inspiration for Grönefeld’s distinctive stainless-steel bridges.

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Similarly, Tim Grönefeld’s exposure to complications began at watchmaking school and was further heightened working on various complications in Le Locle. Again, it was Tim’s exposure to complex mechanisms that served to heighten his fascination with classical watchmaking.

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Since 2008, Bart and Tim, ‘The Horological Brothers’, have produced a variety of unique mechanisms including a tourbillon minute repeater, a jumping seconds, a flying tourbillon with hacking seconds, etc… Their own unique take on classical watchmaking led to them winning two prestigious GPHG prizes: ‘Best Tourbillon’ for the Parallax model in 2014 and the ‘Best Men’s Watch’ for the 1941 Remontoire in 2016.

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However, while both brothers have produced a number of different watches endowed with a variety of complications, they had never made a chronograph… until now.

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The 1941 Grönograaf is the latest creation to be conceived in Oldenzaal. It is a classical chronograph, but consistent with the Grönefeld ethos, it incorporates several ingenious details. 

A purist’s movement

Unlike mass-produced cam-actuated chronographs, the 1941 Grönograaf features a classical configuration, namely a column-wheel and lateral coupling, a combination synonymous with high-end watchmaking. The calibre G-04 is a symphony of 408 parts and a wonderful exemplar of no-compromise watchmaking.

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Mindful that chronograph movements are often subject to harsh forces that can sometimes scar hammers and bend hands, The Horological Brothers conceived a less aggressive system, a ‘soft reset’ mechanism. 

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A centrifugal governor, positioned at 4 o’clock, typically seen on minute repeaters, slows down the reset function, thereby proving kinder to components while delivering a fascinating spectacle in the process. The governor includes two solid gold weights.

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Depending on the position of the heart-shaped cams for the counter hands, the relevant minutes and seconds hands rotate clockwise or counter clockwise, heightening the sense of mechanical theatre. The 30-minute counter, located at 6 o’clock, features an instantaneous jumping minutes’.
 
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The ruby jewelled hammers lessen the impact when returning to zero. The keyless works features a conical winding pinion and crown-wheel, delivering a smooth winding action. Every detail is intended to augment refinement. 
 
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The variable inertia balance mitigates positional influence and offers superior rate stability. The Philips terminal overcoil enhances isochronism, effectively causing the balance spring to breathe more concentrically.

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The main plate is embellished with spotting, while the bridges are formed of stainless steel, polished by hand. Moreover, the bridges have micro-blasted centres, circular graining on the top and feature various engravings in relief. 

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The heart-shaped cams, the elongated chronograph bridge, the gold chatons and the screw-heads are embellished with black polishing, performed in the traditional way using diamond paste on a tin plate. 

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Consistent with earlier Grönefeld watches, the finishing is worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. Indeed, everything is reassuringly Grönefeld.

The 1941 case, now in tantalum

In 2016, Bart and Tim released the 1941 Remontoire, honouring their father, Sjef, by referencing the year of his birth. The 1941 case, measuring 39.5mm, was subsequently used for the Principia automatic and the Decennium Tourbillon and has won favour with many watch collectors.

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The sinuously shaped 1941 returns, albeit it is a smidgen larger, measuring 40mm in diameter. However, most notably, the case for the inaugural models, a limited edition of 25 pieces, is formed of the rare metal, tantalum. 

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This material is hard, corrosion resistant, bioinert and exhibits a lustrous, blue-grey gleam. Tantalum is more than twice as dense as stainless steel, heavier than palladium and slightly lighter than gold.

The dial a Dutch masterpiece

The hours and minutes are shown on an off-centre dial, a detail that first appeared on the 1896 One Hertz and later on the Parallax Tourbillon. The time is expressed with Lancette hands and the hours are denoted with crisp, trapezoidal indexes. The hands are flame-blued steel, upholding watchmaking tradition, while the centres are mirror polished.

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As stated earlier, the centrifugal governor sits at 4 o’clock. When the reset to zero pusher is pressed, the governor bursts into life, not only serving a functional role but delivering a wonderful animated performance.

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A 30-minute counter, located at the base of the dial, features a Breguet-style hand. The instantaneous jumping minutes facilitates ease of read-off. A subsidiary seconds display resides at 9 o’clock, while a power reserve indicator, positioned above, is equipped with a pointer, seemingly floating adjacent a track, conveying the status of the mainspring.

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The central chronograph seconds hand subscribes to the classical Breguet-style and converses with a crisply-marked track positioned on the rehaut, proclaiming the elapsed seconds in an intelligible format. The ‘Premiere Edition’ of the 1941 Grönograaf will be encased in tantalum and limited to just 25 pieces. Thereafter, Grönefeld will release 188 pieces in stainless steel

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The 1941 Grönograaf is the distillation of three generations of watchmaking know-how, of the professional journeys of both Horological Brothers and the manifestation of their extraordinary passion for horology.

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Technical Specifications

Model: GRÖNEFELD 1941
Grönograaf

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  •     1941 Grönograaf Stainless steel  (Edition of 188 pieces)
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  •     1941 Grönograaf Tantalum (Edition of 25 pieces)

 Movement
    Calibre G-04
    Movement dimensions
        Diameter 32.0 mm
        Thickness 6.15 mm
    Number of parts: 408
    Power reserve: 53 hours
    Number of jewels: 45 jewels, partially set in solid gold chatons
    Chronograph:
        Column wheel, instantaneous jumping minutes and a gentle reset to zero mechanisms.
        Ruby jewelled hammer
    Balance wheel: Variable-inertia balance wheel with timing screws (diameter 10 mm)
    Frequency: 21.600 vibrations/hour
    Balance spring: Free sprung with Phillips terminal overcoil curve with Geneva style stud
    Escapement: Jeweled Swiss lever
    Main Plate: Spotted and ruthenium electroplated brass main plate
    Bridges:
        Stainless steel, bevels polished by hand, micro-blasted centre.
        Circular grain on the top to highlight the bridges shapes and engravings.
        Relief engraved Grönefeld logo and the number of jewels
    Governor: Speed regulator with gold weights for the gentle return to zero
Case and dial
    Diameter: 40.00 mm
    Thickness: 11.30 mm
    Water resistance: 3 atmospheres – 30 meters – 100 feet
    Material: Tantalum or Stainless Steel
    Crown: Tantalum or steel, engraved with The Horological Brothers logo
    Dial:
        Stainless steel base with rhodium-plated sub-dials and elements, frosted and satin-grained surfaces.

  •  Decentral hours and minutes at 1 o’clock.
  •  Subdial for seconds at 9 o’clock.
  •  Power Reserve indicator at 11 o’clock.
  •  Large central seconds counter.
  •  30 minutes counter at 6 o’clock

    Governor: Visible “return to zero” speed regulator with gold weights at 3 o’clock
    Hands:
        Extended Lancette hands for hours and minutes.
        Poised Breguet style chronograph hands.
        Flame-blued steel and mirror-polished centres
    Strap: Leather 20mm-18mm
    Buckle: Pin buckle made in tantalum or steel engraved with Grönefeld. 18mm
    Crystals: Domed sapphire crystal on the front with hard anti-reflective coating on both sides. Flat sapphire crystal on the back with hard antireflective coating on both sides
    Total number of parts: 484 parts (Case: 36 Dial/hands: 40 Movement: 408)
    Total weight:
        Tantalum: 108 grams
        Stainless Steel: 85 grams

Availability
    Stainless steel
: 155,000 (Limited edition of 188 pieces)
    Tantalum:165,000 (Limited edition of 25 pieces) - Sold out !

 

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Thursday, July 7, 2022

TAG Heuer – MONACO Purple Dial Edition

 

TAG HEUERMONACO Heuer 02 Purple Dial Automatic Chronograph Special Edition 2022

 TAG HEUER PRESENTS
THE TAG HEUER MONACO PURPLE DIAL

TAG Heuer’s most daring collection, the TAG Heuer Monaco welcomes a new limited-edition timepiece with a striking purple dial.

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La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland – 6 July 2022: The Swiss luxury watchmaker is once again surprising clients and collectors with a bold new interpretation of its famed racing chronograph: the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition.

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Born in 1969, the rule-defying square-shaped chronograph has kept its maverick spirit alive and thriving through the decades, with many statement and sought-after variations of its original blue dial.

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In 2022 the brand is releasing a never-seen-before edition of only 500 numbered pieces. The new TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition combines its unmistakable heritage with fresh and distinctive finishes.

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The 39-mm square case in fine-brushed and polished steel houses an elegantly imagined dial in a rich purple color. 

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The dial gradient, from lighter purple in the center to darker purple at the edge, adds depth and sophistication to the piece, while the rhodium-plated indexes and hands with white Super-LumiNova® and the two black opalin sub-counters subtly enhance the unexpected smoky design.

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Steve McQueen

Connoisseurs of the TAG Heuer Monaco lineage might recognize a subtle parallel with the very early Heuer Monaco reference 1113B, the Chronomatic version launched at the beginning of 1969, as well as the transitional series - before what is known as the “McQueen” – and the reference 1533 Calibre 15

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TAG Heuer - Monaco Calibre 15 Blue Ref. 1533B

These pieces used a different dial finish with a metallic blue paint over the brass plate. Over time, the dials have shown a tendency to patinate from blue to a similar dégradé purple color, sometimes slightly faded in the center and darker around the edges.

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In the 2022 interpretation, TAG Heuer’s in-house chronograph movement, Calibre Heuer 02, is clearly visible through the sapphire case back, and features a customized oscillating mass, column wheel, and engravings, with purple details. 

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It offers outstanding timekeeping performance including a power reserve of 80 hours. For an added special touch, the black alligator strap is also lined with purple on the inside and the case back is engraved with the piece’s number of XXX/500.

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With this vibrant new aesthetic, the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial Limited Edition explores new design territories without losing sight of its distinctive heritage. Available from July 2022, the chronograph will be sold exclusively in TAG Heuer boutiques.

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model: TAG HEUERMONACO Purple Dial Edition

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 Reference   CBL2118.FC6518


Movement   
TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02 manufacture movement
Automatic chronograph
Diameter: 31.0 mm
Total Height: 6.95 mm
168 Components
Frequence: 28’800 Vibrations Per Hour / 4 Hertz
33 Jewels
Power reserve at least 80 hours
Display
Chronograph: hour and minute counters; hour, minute, small seconds 
Case   
Diameter 39 mm
Polished and fine-brushed stainless-steel case
Stainless-steel crown at 3 o’clock, with push-buttons at 2 and 4 o’clock
Stainless-steel sapphire crystal screw-down case back
Limited and numbered with special engraving XXX/500
Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar)
Dial
Purple sunray and smoked brushed dial
3 counters:
– 3 o’clock: black minute chronograph counter
– 6 o’clock: permanent second indicator
– 9 o’clock: black hour chronograph counter
Rhodium-plated applied indexes, hour and minute hands with white
Super-LumiNova®
White lacquered central hand
Angled date display at 6 o’clock
Strap
Black alligator leather strap; purple lining
Steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons

Availability From July 2022

  LIMITED EDITION  - 500 Piece

PRICE Estimate:  CHF 50 000 - 100 000 

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Press Release - 2022
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For further information, please contact:
Sonja Hagmann, International PR Manager
Tel. +41 32 919 81 52
Mobile: +41 79 898 54 73
E-mail: sonja.hagmann@tagheuer.com
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