Thursday, April 14, 2022

Grand Seiko – KODO Constant-force Tourbillon Edition

  

SEIKOGrand Seiko KODO Constant-force Tourbillon Platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium Edition 2022

 Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication combines a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis.

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Together, the motion of the new mechanism and its unique sound give Kodo its signature heartbeat.

Today marks a new milestone in the sixty-two year history of Grand Seiko with the introduction of the brand’s first mechanical complication watch, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. At its heart is a uniquely innovative movement that delivers a level of stable accuracy unprecedented for Grand Seiko by combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very first time in horological history.

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The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat. With its unique appearance when in motion and with its carefully designed sound, this revolutionary watch reveals its vitality both audibly and visually, thanks to the open-work design and the sapphire case back.

Most remarkable of all is the way that the constant-force mechanism and the tourbillon have been integrated together to allow the creation of an overall design that is perfectly in harmony with the values of Grand Seiko and whose technical ingenuity is encased in a watch of great elegance and wearability.

The Grand Seiko Kodo will be available as a limited edition of twenty in October 2022.

From concept to reality

In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced the “T0 Constant-force Tourbillon”, a concept movement which incorporated this patented mechanism. To bring the concept to life in a finished watch required the complete dedication of a team comprising designers, engineers and craftsmen and women entrusted with the assembly and finishing of the movement and the case. 

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Each and every one of the 340 components of the caliber was re-examined, and, where necessary, re-designed and re-engineered for production. The result is Caliber 9ST1. Not only is Caliber 9ST1 smaller than its concept movement predecessor but its high accuracy remains stable for longer thanks to the constant-force mechanism. 

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Furthermore, Caliber 9ST1 sets a new standard of accuracy, in which each movement is tested for a full 48 hours in each of six positions and at three temperatures. This is twice as long as the Grand Seiko and industry standard. Each movement is assessed over the course of 34 days to verify its accuracy, and when the tests are completed and this new standard has been met or exceeded, the performance characteristics of each movement are defined in the individual certificate provided with every watch.

From the inception of the project to the realization of Kodo in its finished form required ten years of skill, dedication and hard work.

Innovation in precision, beauty and sound

Caliber 9ST1 is complex in its engineering and design but is based on the simple insight that the integration of a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis would deliver practical benefits. Because there are no wheels or other components between the two mechanisms, there is no loss or change in the torque transmitted from the constant-force mechanism to the balance wheel.

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 The constant-force carriage (left) and tourbillon carriage (right) are integrated together.

This leads to an increased duration of 50 hours for the constant-force mechanism and a more stable amplitude of the balance. Together, these characteristics deliver the very stable accuracy of the movement. In addition, and crucially for Grand Seiko, the volume of the movement could be reduced, allowing the aesthetics of Grand Seiko to be respected and the watch to be eminently wearable and perfectly comfortable on the wrist.

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The integration of the two mechanisms allows the optimum use of space.

The integration of the two mechanisms creates a dazzling visual effect. The inner tourbillon carriage rotates smoothly as the balance steadily vibrates at 8-beats per second and the outer constant-force carriage follows its rotation at exact one-second intervals. The sounds of the escapement and of the once-per-second impulse of the constant-force mechanism harmonize with this regular visual rhythm to create, for both the eye and the ear, a deeply satisfying and re-assuring heartbeat. There is a powerful yet gentle charm to the sound that is set to a 16th note or semi-quaver which is made possible by 9ST1 being the movement with the highest frequency* ever to incorporate a constant-force mechanism.
*as of February 2022, based on Grand Seiko’s research.

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While this remarkable watch is in every way a new departure for Grand Seiko’s watchmaking, the practicality for which Grand Seiko is renowned is still fully realized in every detail. The constant-force carriage has a ruby on one of its arms, which acts as a small seconds hand. The watch incorporates a hacking function so that the rotating tourbillon carriage can be stopped when the crown is pulled out, allowing the time to be adjusted to the precise second. The hour hand has an extra facet at its tip to enhance its readability. In addition, Kodo offers 10 bar water resistance.

Light, shadow and space

Thanks to the integration of the two key mechanisms, Caliber 9ST1 has room to breathe within the case and there is sufficient space for light to penetrate, through both the front and back of the case, revealing the beauty of the hand finishing. For the same reason, the delicate interplay of light and shadow that is central to the Grand Seiko aesthetic is there to be enjoyed in the subtle shade gradations, angles and textures. Each major component is painstakingly finished by hand using a variety of techniques to endow the overall movement with the quiet yet enduring sparkle that is the hallmark of Grand Seiko.

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 The sapphire crystal case back reveals the beauty of the movement’s finishing and its intricate construction.


The case is constructed from both Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium to achieve a long-lasting beauty. Some case parts of both materials are Zaratsu polished and others have a hairline finish; both processes are completed by hand by highly skilled craftsmen and women to ensure that, from every angle, a visually pleasing harmony is revealed. The two case materials combine most evidently at the tapered end of the lugs where a small open space between each lug adds a lightness and unique aspect to the overall design.

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Grand Seiko’s expertise in hand polishing is evident in the way that the Platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium surfaces are perfectly harmonized.

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The watch is offered with a calf strap specially treated in the same traditional way as was used to create the high-durability material once used in the armor of Samurai. The strap’s surface is painted by hand with Urushi lacquer in a multi-coating process that gives the strap a delicate sheen. The watch also comes with an alternative crocodile strap.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 

Model:   Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon Edition

Ref. SLGT003

Movement
Caliber 9ST1
Driving system: manual-winding
Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
Accuracy: +5 to -3 seconds per day (when static for 48 hours)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Number of jewels: 44
Constant-force Tourbillon
(Constant-force: 50 Hours)
Diameter: 35.0mm, Thickness: 7.98mm

Functions
    Water resistance :    10 bar
    Magnetic resistance :    4,800 A/m
    Other details / Features :    
        ・Case back with 6 screws
        ・LIMITED EDITION on the case back
        ・Power reserve indicator
        ・See-through case back
        ・Serial number engraved on the case back

 Exterior
    Case Material :  Platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium
    Glass Material : Box shaped sapphire crystal
    Glass Coating :  Anti-reflective coating on inner surface
    Case size : Diameter 43.8mm  Lug-to-lug 50.6mm  Thickness 12.9mm
    Clasp type : Three-fold clasp with push button release

Option strap
XGL00122
Band width:22mm
Clasp width:18mm
Color:Black
Material:Crocodile
It will be available from 2022.07

Specifications
Platinum 950 and Brilliant Hard Titanium case
Box shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through case back
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 43.8mm, Thickness: 12.9mm
Calf strap with Platinum 950 three-fold clasp with push button release
Double-sided crocodile strap included

Approximate recommended retail price in the USA: $350,000

Limited edition of 20 pieces

 

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Press releases - 2022
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www.grand-seiko.com
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SEIKO WATCH CORPORATION
Mr­­ Noboru­­ Miyadera
2-8-10, Toranomon, Minato-ku,
Tokyo­­ 105-8467
Japan
Telephone +81 3 6739 2150
Telefax +81 3 6739 2071
seiko-pr@seiko-watch.co.jp
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Wednesday, April 13, 2022

REBELLION – Re-Volt Sapphire Fade to Blue

REBELLIONRE-VOLT Sapphire Fade to Blue Edition - Unique piece 2022

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RE-VOLT SAPPHIRE FADE TO BLUE

Setting requires technical rigor and know-how. The presence of precious stones sublimates a watch and the wrist that wears it. Watch and jewel become one! 

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Rebellion Timepieces is a master in the art of breaking free from aesthetic codes and demonstrates its ability to transcend watchmaking with creations that virtuously mix genres. Rebellion Timepieces is no stranger to breaking conventions with resolutely chic and sporty set pieces, and its two new models are no exception to the rule.

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As for the Re-Volt Sapphire Fade to Blue, 328 sparkling baguette-cut blue sapphires illuminate its case. The result? 

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A Re-Volt that explodes watchmaking codes and presents a resolutely modern and fresh personality, both sober and exuberant. At the heart of its light and sturdy case accompanied by a white leather strap, the in-house hand-wound movement precisely orchestrates the time data. 

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Shine in the night. Technicality, lightness, and purity of design: the Re-volt refuses to compromise. A perfect incarnation of the very essence and philosophy of Rebellion. Smaller than existing models, its square shape and stylishly bold manufacture movement are beyond compare.

Click ,to see the large size. BIG FOTOIts sapphire crystal embodies watch styling aesthetics with full transparency, enhancing its skeletonized movement that continually brings to mind the technical and stylistic audacity of car chassis. 

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Re-Volt knows how to stand out from the crowd thanks to its “in-house” calibre, muscular silhouette, high-tech nature, and exceptional performance with its 48-hour power reserve. Every detail expresses and embodies a passion for motorsport. 

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TECHNICAL DETAILS

Model:   RE-VOLT Sapphire Fade to Blue

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Case
Materials:  White gold
Dimensions:  38.5mmx 40.35mmx13.5mm
Flange:    Light grey
Glass:    Scratch resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment
Case back:   Titanium. Scratch resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance:  50m / 5 ATM
Gemstones (case): 💎300 baguette-cut blue sapphires
Gemstones (buckle): 💎28 baguette-cut blue sapphires
Gemstones (total): 💎328
Carat weight (total): 17,71 c

Movement
Skeletonized property movement manual winding 

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Balance frequency:  4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Movement components:  165
Functions:    Hours, minutes and seconds
Jewels:  21
Power reserve:  48 hours
Strap and buckle:
White genuine alligator strap with white gold folding clasp set with blue sapphires


Limited to Unique piece

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#dailywatch #luxurywatch #montres #watchfam #rebellionwayoflife #watchesandwonders #watchesandwonders2022 #sapphire #luxurywatch #luxurywatches

 
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Press Release - 2022
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