Thursday, January 6, 2022

CHRISTOPHE CLARET – Aventicum AL-ULA Edition

 

CHRISTOPHE CLARETAventicum AL-ULA Gold and Titanium Limited Edition

Christophe Claret AL-ULA, the magic of the East

A keen connoisseur of history and culture, Christophe Claret unveils a timepiece whose symbolic power is highlighted by the ingenious optical phenomenon of the mirascope. At the center of this limited edition conveying a message recalling the history and civilizations of the East which founded the foundations of modern society : AL- ULA, a basin stretching from Jordan to the Arabian desert, sumptuous witness of the Nabatean civilization, the iconic monument symbolizing appears to literally burst out of the dial.

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Christophe Claret
never ceases to surprise. This true virtuoso of the watchmaking art plays with mechanics, reinvents style codes and creates a fresh and very personal vision of the passing of time. This approach has driven the creation of the Mecca timepiece that uses the optical phenomenon of the mirascope in paying tribute to a civilization and a rich culture more than three thousand years old.

Optical illusion

AL-ULA, the capital of the Kingdom of Dedan, is today a site of major cultural significance and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It welcomes Al-Hegra and Mada’in Saleh into its signature. The site has several dozen monuments that have been incredibly preserved from late antiquity.

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One of these monuments, very famous in its symbolism, is micro engraved and highlighted thanks to the mirascope, a process invented about thirty years ago at the University of California. The mirascope is composed of two identical parabolic mirrors arranged one on top of the other, creating an elliptical shape. The convex mirror on top has a hole in the middle. When an object is placed in the center of the concave bottom mirror, the reflection from the top mirror creates a hologram of the object, which appears nearly two times larger than it actually is. In implementing this optical effect in the Mecca model, the monument looks as if it is thrusting out of the middle of the watch and offers a 360-degree view of the emblematic memorial which has withstood all phenomena to bear witness to the grandiosity and talent of the past civilization.

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AL-ULA
, like all Christophe Claret signature timepieces, epitomizes the highest standards of fine watchmaking embodied by the brand. Developing the technically demanding mirascope to function perfectly took extreme dedication and focus. Two months of research and several prototypes were integral to obtaining the desired optical effect. The next critical step was designing and crafting the hour and minute hands, which had to be reconfigured, as the mirascope was now the centerpiece of the watch. The hands became pointers revolving on an invisible ring around the perimeter of the dial, each equipped with a counterweight to optimize stability. The challenge of creating the hands was to find a material light enough to compensate for the relatively larger – though mainly concealed – size of the display mechanism. The solution was to use anticorodal (aluminum), which has an excellent rigidity/weight coefficient.

The power of symbols

Esthetically speaking, no detail was left to chance. The AL-ULA timepiece features a wealth of emblematic elements and references to the ancestral culture of the region. First, the dial which opens on the iconic Mada’in Saleh monument is engraved in solid rose gold. The color green, in connection with the Arab culture of the past and the present. To accentuate the symbolism of the piece, the Arabic hour numerals and the “AL-MIM” motifs have been engraved on the flange. The front of the watch reveals a calligraphy drawn in the Diwani style by a master calligrapher, “AL-ULA and THE MAGIC OF THE ORIENT”, this one is filled by a hand engraving.

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The aesthetic and symbolic spectacle is continued on to the back of the AL-ULA timepiece. The ball-bearing cover is decorated with an engraving of the coat of arms of the Christophe Claret brand around which the green sapphire oscillating weight of the self-winding movement rotates. It should be noted that Christophe Claret has obtained a patent for the sapphire element connecting the ball-bearings to the oscillating weight concealed behind a circle Crafted in green sapphire so as to reveal the meticulous movement finishing, all decorated with a motif around the edge engraved by hand with a green enamel filling.

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Finally, the back bezel is engraved with the symbolism of AL-ULA’s current geographic location. The back of the watch shows important inscriptions relating to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, guardian of today AL-ULA. All adorned with green enamel, the inscriptions “LA ILAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH” and “THE KINGDOM OF SAUDI ARABIA” are also calligraphed in the Diwani style and engraved by hand to perfect this extraordinary masterpiece. Indeed, the kingdom of Saudi Arabia has made considerable efforts to promote this world heritage of humanity and recently made this wonder accessible to the public.

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With these words, almost everything is said… the rim of the titanium case reveals that only very few enthusiasts will have the chance to wear one of the AL-ULA watches on their wrist.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model   AL-ULA Edition  

  • Ref. MTR.AVE15.620-637 - Titanium
  • Ref. MTR.AVE15.600-617 - Red gold

Distinctive features:

Movement
    Calibre: AVE15, self-winding
    Dimensions: Diameter: 26.20 mm / Thickness: 3.37 mm (without hands)
    Number of parts: 186
    Number of jewels: 28
    Barrels: Twin barrels
    Power reserve: 72
hours
    Escapement: Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) / Swiss lever
    Features: Mystery’ oscillating weight with sapphire crystal segment and transferred motifs
Functions: Hours and minutes display
Case
    Dimensions: Ø 44 x 18.49 mm 
    Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 m / 100 ft
  • MTR.AVE15.600-617

    Case: Grade 5 titanium
    Hands: Anticorodal, anodized green with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
    Crown: Grade 5 titanium and anthracite gray grade 5 PVD titanium
    Strap: Black alligator leather with green stitching
    Limited edition: 17
    Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 69’000

  • MTR.AVE15.620-637
    Case: Red gold 5N Hands: Anticorodal, anodized black with 4N red gold tips, black lacquered
    Crown: Red Gold 5N 
    Strap: Black alligator leather with green stitching
    Limited edition: 17
    Price in Swiss francs (ex VAT): 77’000

 Front:
    The AL-ULA watch is inspired by the Aventicum model: the center of the dial, the mirascope with the emblematic monument of Mada’in Saleh micro-engraved.
    Around, oriental calligraphy engraved and lacquered in green and gray color.

Back:
    The oscillating weight is in green sapphire revealing the movement, adorned with an “Al-Mim” motif engraved and enameled in green around the circumference of the weight.
    On a decorative plate, green decal of two inscriptions Arabic:

  •     At 12: “LA ILLAH ILA ALLAH MOHAMAD RASOOL ALLAH”
  •     “There is no god but GOD and Muhammad is his messenger”
  •     At 6: “AL MAMLAKA ALARABIA ALSAOUDIA”
  •     “The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia”
  •     At 3 and 9: the sword symbol of the flag of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
Strap
Black alligator leather with green stitching
Clasp
Grade 5 titanium 5 titanium caps, 
Christophe Claret logo

Edition
Limited edition of 17 pieces 

 
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Press release - 2021
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Christophe ClaretAlexandra Beurier
Tel : +41 32 933 80 26
Email : a.beurier@christopheclaret.com
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Wednesday, January 5, 2022

OMEGA – SPEEDMASTER Calibre 321 Canopus Gold

 

OMEGASpeedmaster Calibre 321 Chronograph Canopus Gold65th Anniversary 2022

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Heritage Models

Complete with vintage details and a beautiful design in 18K Canopus Gold™, this unique Speedmaster model is a perfectly collectable timepiece. Along with its iconic Calibre 321, there are also several special tributes to the collection’s 65th anniversary.

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For the first major release of 2022, Omega is introducing a new Speedmaster Calibre 321, complete with vintage details and a beautiful design in 18K Canopus Gold™.

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When this legendary collection was first launched in 👆 1957, it changed the face of chronograph watchmaking forever. Created for professional racing car drivers, the watch was perfectly readable and easy to use, and was also the first in the world to feature a tachymeter scale on the bezel, as opposed to on the dial.  

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This feature was ideal for timing average speeds on the track, and complemented the watch’s sturdy, highly-precise and water-resistant design.

Taking inspiration from that very first Speedmaster, known as the CK2915-1, today’s release marks the collection’s 65th anniversary with a unique 38.6 mm case that has been crafted in 18K Canopus Gold™.  

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This exclusive material is Omega’s own white gold alloy and is distinguished by its high brilliance, whiteness and longevity. Watch connoisseurs will also be able to pick out the NAIAD symbol on the watch’s crown, which was specifically used to reference water-resistance in some of the first CK2915 models.
 
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For the ultimate contrast, the watch has been given a deep black onyx dial with an applied vintage Omega logo and typography featuring an oval “O” - a detail that was typical for the first CK2915 models. There are also 18K white gold hands and indexes with a Canopus Gold™ PVD treatment and the three classic Speedmaster subdials including a small seconds display, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, along with the central chronograph function.
 
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Of course, the famous tachymeter scale is there too. On the bezel, it has been filled with black “Grand Feu” enamel, and if you look closely, you’ll also see two of the original Speedmaster’s most collector-worthy details: the famous dot over ninety (DON) and a dot diagonal to seventy.
 
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Perhaps most sought-after of all is the famous movement inside the watch.  

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The Calibre 321 was the original movement used inside the Speedmaster in 1957. It also powered the watches worn during the Apollo missions, including all of history’s six moon landings.  

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Since 019, Omega has brought the Calibre 321 back into production, carefully retaining all the authentic specifications. Adding it to this new release gives the watch added provenance and a genuine connection to the Speedmaster’s heritage.
 
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Turning the watch over reveals a further tribute to the collection’s anniversary. An engraving of the Omega Seahorse – a brand icon used on the Speedmaster since 1957 -has been added to the inside of the sapphire crystal glass. Its eye has been made from a sparkling blue sapphire, a precious jewel that traditionally marks a 65-year celebration.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOThe Speedmaster Calibre 321 watch is set on an 18K Canopus Gold™ bracelet with a comfort release adjustment system and is presented in a special wooden box.  

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Crafted with a Rosewood-like pattern in honour of the collection’s 65th anniversary, the shape and design of the box is inspired by the original Speedmaster boxes that customers would have received in 1957.

Canopus Gold

Omega has been using the exclusive Canopus Gold™, an 18K white gold alloy, since 2015. As well as being 100% noble, it bears all the standard characteristics of other 18K golds, while also distinguishing itself for its high brilliance, whiteness and longevity, making it an ideal material for high-end or diamond set timepieces.

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The alloy is named after the bright star⭐️ Canopus, which is 71 times bigger and 10’000 times brighter than our sun. Due to its brilliance and position, Canopus became an important reference point for many space agencies.

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Its unique composition includes platinum, rhodium and palladium for colour and stability.

Craftsmanship in detail

To create the newest version of the legendary Speedmaster chronograph, Omega has once again pushed the boundaries of watchmaking expertise, using methods and technologies that achieve exceptional quality in every detail.

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We have now gone inside the factory to reveal exactly how this commemorative and highly-innovative timepiece has been crafted. From the bezel to the dial, you can now begin to understand why this unique watch stands apart from the rest.

The Bezel

For the very first time, Omega has developed a white gold bezel featuring a black enamel tachymeter scale. To accomplish the début feature in this specific case, the process requires three separate layers of black enamel being applied to the engraved bezel, and after each layer is applied, the bezel spends time in a “Grand Feu” furnace at exactly 850°C.  

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When this is complete, the top surface of the bezel is satin-brushed to reveal the clear numbering of the scale, before the bezel is placed back in the furnace one last time (at 800°C) to enhance the tachymeter’s glossy appearance.

The Dial

Onyx is blacker than ceramic, making it the ideal material for the dial of this Speedmaster. To respect the original specifications of the 1957 Speedmaster dial, Omega uses an ultrasonic CNC machine to precisely cut and assemble each of the dial’s main components - beginning with the primary base plate in brass.

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This plate is given a black DLC coating (Diamond Like Carbon), before receiving its three chronograph counters also in black onyx. A second plate in black onyx is then added, followed by the external minute ring in black onyx, to complete the Speedmaster’s famous “step dial” effect.

The Case

18K gold (with at least 75% pure gold) is considered the premium standard for watchmaking, as it offers the ultimate balance between purity and practicality. Omega’s 18K Canopus Gold™ alloy combines gold with platinum, rhodium and palladium to deliver its exclusive quality and look.

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For this watch, the raw material is machined to create the genuine case shape of the original Speedmaster and is then given polished and brushed surfaces to deliver contrasting effects.

The Caseback

The Seahorse has long been a symbol used on Omega watches and was originally inspired by the seahorse motifs used on the gondolas of Venice. While also being attributed to Seamaster timepieces, the Seahorse has also become a defining icon for the Speedmaster collection.  

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On this watch, the design has been laser engraved on the inside of the sapphire glass. Then, a patented technique using Liquidmetal™ has been used to set a single blue 💎sapphire for the eye. Liquidmetal™ has become an important material for Omega, providing the ultimate technique for bonding and enduring stability.

Historic Inspiration

Taking inspiration from the very first Speedmaster CK2915-1 from 1957, this unique 38.6 mm model has been crafted in 18K Canopus Gold™ and features a deep black onyx dial with an applied vintage Omega logo and typography featuring the “oval O” (typical for the first CK2915 models).  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

There are also 18K white gold hands/indexes with a Canopus Gold™ PVD treatment and three subdials including a small seconds display, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, along with the central chronograph function.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The tachymeter scale on the bezel is filled with black enamel and if you look closely, you'll also see the famous dot over ninety (DON) and a dot diagonal to seventy.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

On the caseback, you’ll find a Seahorse design engraved inside the sapphire crystal glass. To mark the Speedmaster’s 65th anniversary, a blue sapphire is used for the eye.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOBehind the Seahorse is a clear view of the incredible Calibre 321 – famous for its history of space exploration. The crown features the NAIAD symbol, also specific to some of the first CK2915 models.

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The watch is set on an 18K Canopus Gold™ bracelet with a comfort release adjustment system,

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and is presented in a special 65th anniversary wooden box made of tulip tree (a Rosewood lookalike) which is inspired by the shape and design of the original Speedmaster boxes.

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Technical Specifications

Collection: SPEEDMASTER

Model: SPEEDMASTER Calibre 321 Chronograph 38.6 mm Canopus Gold

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 Ref. 311.50.39.30.01.001

Movement
    Calibre: Omega 321
    Famous manual-winding chronograph movement with column wheel mechanism, Breguet balance-spring and 18K Sedna™ gold PVD coated finish. The calibre that was worn on the Moon.
    Power reserve: 55 hours
Features
    Chronograph
    Small seconds
    Tachymeter
    Transparent case back
Case
    Case: Canopus Gold™
    Case Diameter: 38.6 mm
    Dial Colour: Black Onyx
    Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides
    Water resistance: 6 bar (60 metres / 200 feet)
Strap
    Full Canopus Gold™ bracelet
    Entre‑corne: 19 mm

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Availability: Special presentation BOX

Price: Suggested retail price   $ 90,650.00 / 80,000 / CHF 75,000 (excl. taxes)


All OMEGA timepieces have a 5-year warranty.

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