GIRARD-PERREGAUX – La Esmeralda Tourbillon A Secret Eternity Edition

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – BRIDGES La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition 2021

 The equine mystery

La Esmeralda is the famous prize-winning pocket watch made for the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1889. This legendary pocket watch blended extraordinary precision with several artistic crafts. 

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As the Manufacture celebrates its 230-year anniversary, it has revisited its iconic timepiece of 1889 and created a wristwatch that both celebrates the Maison’s heritage and showcases its amassed and considerable know-how.

Birth of a legend

During the 19th century, ‘Universal Exhibitions’ were held, showcasing the latest technological advances of their day. Various nations would participate and the most meritorious exhibits won prizes, medals and distinctions. While other countries would also go on to host world expositions, Paris proved a particularly popular venue for such events, hosting the ‘Exposition Universelle’ in 1855, 1867, 1878 and 1889.

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In 1860, Constant Girard, a brilliant watchmaker who spent most of his life dedicated to the field of chronometry, created a tourbillon chronometer equipped with three nickel silver bridges. Later, in 1867, Constant entered the Observatoire of Neuchâtel competition where his watch won first prize, setting a record that remained unchallenged for many years. Again, in 1867, the same watch won a medal at the Exposition Universelle, Paris. What differentiated Constant’s work from that of his peers was that he didn’t restrict his efforts to technical details alone but also expended much effort refining the architecture of his movements. In particular, the famous three bridges he employed on his watches were not merely functional, but also designed to be visible and attractive. Over time, the design of the arrow-shaped bridges became increasingly stylised, encompassing numerous facets. Furthermore, the three bridges were ennobled, transitioning from the nickel silver found on the early pocket watches to the now famous golden bridges. A legend was born.

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Constant would visit Paris again in 1889, entering another pocket watch for the ‘Exposition Universelle’. The renowned watchmaker unveiled the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, a pocket watch housed in a sumptuous pink gold case, measuring 56mm in diameter and fitted with a detent escapement. The case was elaborately engraved by Fritz Kundert, an acclaimed artisan based in the ‘Neuchâtel mountains.’ In September 1889, the watch received a diploma and gold medal at ‘Exposition Universelle’. After the event, a famous watch and jewellery retailer, Hauser, Ziwy & Co, which operated ‘La Esmeralda’ stores in Paris and Mexico, was tasked with selling the prize-winning watch.

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Girard-Perregaux - A Pocket History 1889 circa La ESMERALDA

The watch, ultimately called ‘La Esmeralda’, was sold to Porfirio Diaz, then president of Mexico (1830-1915). In 1970, a descendent of the president offered the Manufacture the opportunity to purchase the watch and it now forms part of the Maison’s museum collection.

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While La Esmeralda was a highly precise pocket watch, its charms were not merely restricted to its engraved case and golden bridges. For instance, it was fitted with a sumptuous white grand feu enamel dial. Moreover, Poire Stuart hour and minute hands, featuring a filigreed design, contributed to the watch’s elegant mien. Finally, the savonette case, incorporating a hinged dust cover, was beautifully engraved with three horses. However, despite having extensive archives, Girard-Perregaux can find no record regarding the significance of said horses. Indeed, the horses have now become known as the ‘equine mystery’.

 A re-interpretation of the legend. An eternal charm.

 This year, as Girard-Perregaux celebrates its 230th anniversary, the Manufacture is pleased to unveil La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition, a wristwatch employing the Maison’s legendary watchmaking know-how as well as encompassing an array of artistic crafts, executed to an exceptional standard. This latest creation re-interprets the design of the legendary 1889 ‘La Esmeralda’ pocket watch and references many of its extraordinary refinements. However, it is not a facsimile of what has gone before, but a tasteful homage to Constant Girard’s prize-winning watch of yesteryear. It is perfectly in tune with the expectations of a modern-day audience but respects La Esmeralda and seeks to capture its eternal charm.

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Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Girard-Perregaux, remarks, “La Esmeralda is unquestionably our most famous watch and as the current custodian of our Maison, I am always mindful that we should treat such a legend with due reverence. This year, the Manufacture is celebrating its 230th anniversary and we were keen to ensure this milestone did not pass by unnoticed. Already this year we have unveiled several fabulous watches, however, La Esmeralda "A Secret" Eternity Edition is without doubt the most ambitious creation we have released to date. It draws upon our vast knowledge of Haute Horlogerie, in particular tourbillons, embraces several types of artistic crafts and, at the same time, honours the history of La Esmeralda, a watch that continues to exhibit lasting appeal.”

Familiar but different

Three gold bridges span the dial, similar to those fitted to La Esmeralda of 1889. However, on this latest model, Girard-Perregaux has once again made the invisible visible by bringing the horses engraved on the back case of the original pocket watch up to centre stage of this new timepiece. Indeed, two hand-engraved galloping horses form the right and left ends of the barrel bridge and tourbillon bridge. Each bridge is painstakingly finished and features concave bevelling, mirror-polishing, flanks with horizontal ‘traits-tirés’ and rounded off arms. It requires 40 hours to finish all three bridges, while the additional engraving found on the barrel bridge and tourbillon takes an extra 50 hours to complete.

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While the La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition celebrates the Manufacture’s history and upholds many of its historical techniques, it also incorporates cutting-edge technology. For example, the elaborately formed mainplate is made using a CNC-machine and produced to infinitesimal tolerances unimaginable back in the 19th century. However, once milled, the mainplate is finished to the exacting standards befitting the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. This is just one example of how Girard-Perregaux has repeatedly juxtaposed modern-day know-how with traditional expertise.

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The mainplate (caseback side) is embellished with a new form of finishing, an industry first exclusive to Girard-Perregaux. Where some high-end watches feature a bevelled edge, presented at 45°, spanning the surface and the flank, this model encompasses concave bevelling. This involves creating a curved recess between the surface and flank, catching light wonderfully and transitioning from one shade to another.

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As its name implies, the watch is fitted with a secret cover. By pressing the crown pusher, the secret cover opens, revealing the self-winding movement, the Calibre GP09600-1506. Beneath the secret cover, the mainplate is fitted with a motion-work bridge and marking plate. Both are made from pink gold and incorporate traits-tirés and hand-polished angles, thereby emulating the shape of the famous Gold Bridges. The motion-work bridge is marked ‘secret’. The inside of the hinged secret cover is hand-engraved with various inscriptions, albeit these can be personalised on request. 

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Both the barrel and the mainplate (dial side) are enlivened with various guilloché patterns, performed using a traditional rose-engine lathe, operated by a time-served artisan. The rose-engine lathe is a manually operated machine, devoid of power or electronics. The expert places the dial in the machine and with one hand rotates it at a steady speed. He or she employs their other hand to press the chisel or cutter against the dial to remove material. The pattern is created by using various ‘rosettes’. This technique requires several years to master. Indeed, in order to create a beautifully defined pattern the artisan must ensure the rotational speed and the pressure they apply to the chisel remain constant at all times.

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The dauphine-type hour and minute hands are formed of pink gold and circumnavigate an intricate and beautifully appointed dial. Beyond its three iconic bridges and the aforementioned guilloché dial, the watch is endowed with several additional delights for the delectation of purists. The central area of the dial and mainplate is recessed, accommodating the barrel, centre wheel and tourbillon cage. A rhodium plated barrel sits in the upper portion of the dial and features golden engraved text. This detail recalls the text found on the barrel of the original La Esmeralda, declaring the model’s patented status. A white gold micro-rotor sits beneath the barrel, out of sight, energising the mainspring with minimal user input.

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A tourbillon cage is positioned in the lower portion of the dial. Made using state-of-the art technology, the lyre-shaped cage, comprised of 78 components, weighs just 0.3g. This low mass helps mitigate power-consumption, contributing to the model’s power-reserve of at least 50 hours. A blued steel hand is affixed to the tourbillon cage and serves as a small seconds display.

Hand-engraving

The pink gold case is totally hand-engraved, honouring the skilful work of Fritz Kundert, the artisan tasked with engraving La Esmeralda in the 19th century, as well as the dedication and skill of the modern-day artisans of La Chaux-de-Fonds.  

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The bezel, caseband, lugs and buckle are engraved with a delicate leaf motif. The outerpart of the cover is adorned with a fluted pattern. Additional engraving graces both the inside and exterior of the secret cover.

An eternal beauty

La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition is introduced as part of the Eternity Edition series, paying homage the eternal beauty of enamel. This contemporary Interpretation has taken use this mCtier d'art one step further than Its historical forebearer, extending the enamelling onto the outer case sides and lugs - all of which has been executed in-house. The enamel comprises a mixture of silica, minium, potash and soda which are ground into a powder. Additional metal oxides are then added to create different coloured enamels.  

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The powder is dusted onto the dial and then fired in an oven that typically operates at about 800°C. This process is repeated on 5-10 occasions to achieve the desired lustrous appearance.

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Grand feu enamelling takes much expertise to master, however, even with experience the repeated firings can still result in cracks appearing, air bubbles and colour imperfections. Inevitably, many dials fail to pass muster and are discarded. However, the main benefit of this protracted process is that flawless grand feu enamels dial will retain their colour forever, promising a lasting joy.

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To the rear of the watch, the back of the blue enamelled secret cover features three horses, again inspired by the original La Esmeralda and adorned with a sunray guillochC decoration and blue grand feu enamel. The horses return, but their origin remains an enigma or, as they say at the Manufacture, 'an equine mystery'.

La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition will be offered in seven different colourways, each produced on request for a maximum of eighteen pieces per colour. It is immediately available worldwide through all authorised Girard-Perregaux retailers.

To further highlight this notable timepiece's unveiling during Dubai Watch Week, Girard-Perregaux will host an intimate event in collaboration with famous calligraphy artist Diaa Allam on 25 November 2021. Over the course of the eveningthe artist will live paint the three horses from the "equine mystery" of La Esmeralda, further highlighting Girard-Perregaux's commitment to craftsmanship and artistry

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model: BRIDGES La Esmeralda Tourbillon "A Secret" Eternity Edition

Limited Edition of 18 Timepieces

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 Reference: 99274-52-000-BA6A

Movement
Calibre Number : GP09600-1506
Mechanism : self-winding mechanical
Total Diameter : 32.00 mm (14 1/4''')
Height : 7.68 mm
Frequency : 21,600 Vib/h - (3Hz)
Number of Parts : 323
Number of Jewels: 31
Oscillating weight : white gold micro-rotor
Power Reserve : min. 50h
Functions
hours and minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon, tourbillon
Case
Material : pink gold, engraved and enamelled
Diameter : 43 mm
Case-back :the blue enamelled secret cover reveals a sapphire crystal
Water resistance :30 m
Dial
Hand-guilloché, blue enamel with a sunray motif
Strap
Strap material :alligator leather
Buckle : engraved pink gold triple folding buckle

Edition ❱❱❱  Limited to 18 pieces

 PRICE :   $ 407,000 USD

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Press release - 2021
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Press Contact:
Manager: Ivanne Perrinjaquet, iperrinjaquet@girard-perregaux.ch

Girard-Perregaux,
International PR : christine.giotto@girard-perregaux.com

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L’EPEE 1839 – Creative Art Golden Boy Unique Piece

 

L’EPÉE 1839 – Creative Art Golden Boy Winchester Wall/Ttable Clock Exclusive Edition Unique Piece

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 A reimagination of the legendary Winchester repeating rifle.

Golden Boy is a new class of hyper-exclusive items that redefines the Art of Gifting and takes creativity, aesthetics and artisanship to the highest level.

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 Golden Boy is a work of art in form and function

A true-to-the-legend reimagination of the iconic lever action rifle as a clock, its original loading and cocking mechanism rethought for winding the timekeeping calibre and setting the time.

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Holding – and beholding – this uniquely fascinating feat of engineering and artisanship evokes childhood dreams of a far-away age that ultimately helped shape our modern times. It can be displayed to great effect both on a desk, mantelpiece or on the wall.

In a way no conventional clock could ever hope to, Golden Boy doesn’t just tell time…

Today, The partnership between The Unnamed Society and L’Epée 1839  opens another stunning creation imagined for those who set the bar for the Art of Gifting a bit higher than the rest, for appreciators of the finer things, and for visionary collectors.

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Golden Boy remains true as ever to the spirit of “creating the impossible that defies the imagination” by looking not just at a timekeeper as an expression of aesthetic, engineering and artisanship excellence, but as a true witness of its time.

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Golden Boy is the logical sequel to Pancho Villa’s Bisley Colt – an intricate work of artistry and precision that engages the imagination and the senses on many levels, taking us back to an age of human evolution that seems impossible in hindsight and yet epitomizes our understanding of courage, resilience and perseverance.

The legend that won the West…
Nicknamed the ‘Gun that Won the West,’ the Winchester Rifle remains one of the most iconic firearms of all time. Used by both lawmen and outlaws in the Old West, the Winchester rifle so perfectly embodies the legendary struggle between the peacekeepers and the bandits.

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Favored by many notable figure such as Billy the Kid, Butch Cassidy, and Buffalo Bill it has become a symbol of that time.

For the gun that inspired Golden Boy, the year is 1866. The place: a vast country born less than a century before from the purest of desires, self-determination.

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Winchester ‘Yellow Boy’ 1866 name: It wasn’t the settlers or bandits who came up with the term ‘Yellow Boy’ as shorthand for their trusted rifle. ‘Yellow Boy’ was what the Indians said, when they saw the shiny brass-alloy receiver that housed the cocking and loading mechanism of the lever action rifle.

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Historians all agree that the Winchester was a key element and so representation of winning battle.

History, design and inspiration

…now reborn as Golden Boy.
Golden Boy has the same dimensions and weight as the original, the same feel and heft. Holding it is holding the legend. Beholding it is glimpsing the amazing era that defined adventure and fired the imagination of every generation born since.

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Breathing life into a legend reinvented: the L’Épée movement
Says Arnaud Nicolas, CEO of L’Épée: “Golden Boy is our second project with The Unnamed Society and a natural continuation of the Pancho Villa’s Bisley Colt we created together.

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Bolting a clock to a gun was never an option, so rethinking the original rifle’s ingenious lever action mechanism as a main component of the clock calibre seemed like an irresistible challenge. The result is a work of engineering that transcends its function into a work of art, true to our DNA.

‘Loading’ the clock mechanism
What made the lever action repeating rifle such a gamechanger back in the day was the revolutionary approach to loading ammunition, cocking the hammer and chambering the bullet in one rapid, fluid motion – with a lever actioned by the trigger hand.

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Able to hold 15 rounds before having to reload, the original was not only much more practical than a single-shot rifle, but also allowed for excellent handling and accuracy.

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L’Épée captures this defining movement of the hand as it loads the round and prepares the gun for firing: by having the clock mechanism wound – ‘loaded’ – in exactly the same way.

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By actioning the lever 15 times – as for the 15 bullets the 1866 Winchester magazin – the mechanism is fully wound for a 8-day power reserve.

A bespoke blend of aesthetics, engineering and artisanship. Clock, stock and barrel.

It is one thing to hold and handle Golden Boy, and feel transported into another age. The age of your own childhood, when playing the various roles that defined the conquest of the west – cowboy, Indian, soldier, settler – would first fill afternoons and then late night dreams. Golden Boy takes you there.

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It is quite another to see Golden Boy displayed on its bespoke stand. Shock. Evoke. Inspire. These are the words that should describe a piece of Art. Shocking because so unusual. Evocative because of its power to rekindle powerful memories. Inspiring because it draws you into an unexpected juxtaposition of engineering and aesthetics, itself triggering new associations.

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Indeed, if the bespoke display stand created especially for Golden Boy comes at no extra cost, it is because together they form a whole.

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Resting on its display on a desk, table or mantel, Golden Boy is an immediate presence in the room. When the display is placed on a wall, Golden Boy becomes a painting telling not just one story, but thousands. It has such an uncanny effect of transfiguring the setting in which it is displayed.

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If marvel at the heart of each Golden Boy is only matched by the fact that it only comes as a bespoke creation, completely finished to the owner’s wishes.

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For the receiver, barrel and tubular magazine, the owner can choose from steel, 18K yellow, rose or white gold, and palladium. For the stock and forestock, from a selection of exotic woods.

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Golden Boy : Technical specifications

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The Golden Boy arsenal is only composed of unique pieces. Each piece is different from the other by a series of color, engraving and a selection of exotic woods for the stock and forestock.

Time dispay:
Hours and minutes are displayed through window echoing the bullet loading port. Numerals are engraved on large diameter stainless steel disks with black PVD coating and circular-brushed satin finish.

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To set the time, you need to open up the left side window and turn the disks manually.

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Winding:
Manual winding by swivel motion of the cocking mechanism of the lever action rifle. By actioning the lever 15 times – as for the 15 bullets the 1866 Winchester magazin – the mechanism is fully wound for a 8-day power reserve.

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Technical characteristics:
Dimensions: 1093 mm (length) x 57 mm (width) x 200 mm (height)
Weight: 3 kg
Movement: 8 days
Materials: Palladium or gold-finish brass and stainless steel, or Black PVD color.
Finishes: Polishing, microblasting and satin-finishing, entirely by hand.

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L’Épée 1839 movement designed and manufactured in-house
Multi-level horizontal architecture
Frequency of the balance-wheel: 2.5 Hz / 18,000 vibrations/h
Power reserve: 8 days
Number of components: 342
Number of jewels: 11
Incabloc protection system
Materials: stainless steel and brass
Functions:
Hours and minutes dispay
A functional hammer and trigger as a playful function.


================      The Unnamed Society     =================

Founded in 2019 in Switzerland, The Unnamed Society is a team of passionate inventors, designers and artisans committed to “creating the impossible that defies the imagination”: hyper-exclusive items offering an experience that transcends the object, made with the highest quality materials and techniques steeped in tradition, for collectors who are part of its most select circle.

The sign of The Unnamed Society is a swooping owl clutching a key. Across centuries and civilizations, the owl symbolizes wisdom and the ability to see what remains hidden; the key is a natural extension to unlock the unimagined – or unimaginable.

Heightened senses. Clarity of purpose. Absolute discretion. With the same traits as those displayed by the owl, its totem animal, the team of passionate inventors, designers and artisans that form The Unnamed Society set about creating hyper-exclusive items that offer an experience that transcends the object itself.

“Creating the impossible that defies the imagination”

That is the motto of The Unnamed Society: The new measure of genuine quality, sophistication, taste, and true exclusivity in modern gifting. When everything is attainable, when any possible earthly desire is within reach, the meaning of desirability shifts to a new and higher level.

It is for this most discerning clientele that The Unnamed Society finds unimagined and seemingly impossible ways of capturing the essence of what it is to thank, acknowledge, reward or simply surprise with a gift that is truly out of the ordinary. Far from brand fanfare, the creations of The Unnamed Society celebrate the Art of Gifting

Knowledgeable and passionate about the world of Art, The Unnamed Society imagines and creates bespoke pieces of art, fascinating to both the eye and soul, so utterly surprising and ultimately timeless.
Fusing unexpected originality with sublime aesthetics, exclusive individuality with pure desire to create hyper-exclusive collectable items and experiences. In the process of transforming inspiration into reality, only the highest-quality materials are used, and the finest artisanship techniques applied. Each creation is a one-off.

The Ultimate in the Art of Gifting
With Golden Boy, The Unnamed Society presents its second creation, a logical match for Pancho Villa’s Bisley Colt that expresses the spirit of an era that remains as fascinating and inspiring as ever, faithfully and authentically interwoven with the passion of “creating the impossible that defies the imagination.”

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As a hyper-exclusive bespoke object of art, each Golden Boy will be a truly unique piece. The price may seem prohibitive to some. And that is the point, one might argue. For it all tangibly comes through in the creativity, craftsmanship and quality of an object that, ultimately, is priceless.

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L’EPEE 1839

L’Epée has been a prominent clockmaking firm for more than 180 years. Today, it is the only manufacture in Switzerland to specialize in the production of high-end clocks. Founded in 1839 by Auguste L’Epée in France’s Besançon region, the company originally focused on producing music boxes and watch components. Even at this early stage, the brand was synonymous with entirely hand-made pieces.

Starting in 1850, the manufacture became a leader in producing escapements and began to develop special regulators for alarm clocks, table clocks and musical watches. It gained wide recognition and filed numerous patents for special escapements, particularly for use in its anti-knocking, auto-starting and constant force systems. L’Epée became the principal supplier of several famous clockmakers and went on to win many gold medals at World Fairs.

During the 20th century, the firm owed its success largely to its remarkable travel clocks. Many associate the L’Epée brand with influential individuals and people in positions of power. Members of the French government often gave clocks to their distinguished guests. When the Concorde supersonic airplane began its commercial flights in 1976, L’Epée fitted the cabins with wall clocks to give passengers the time. In 1994, the brand demonstrated its penchant for challenges by constructing the largest pendulum clock in the world, the “Giant Regulator”, which features in the Guinness Book of Records.

L’Epée 1839 is currently based in Delémont in the Swiss Jura Mountains. With CEO Arnaud Nicolas at the helm, it has developed an exceptional collection of table clocks that includes an entire range of sophisticated clocks.

The collection focuses on three themes:
Creative Art - Artistic pieces first and foremost, often developed in partnership with external designers as joint creations. These clocks surprise, inspire and even shock the most seasoned collectors. They are intended for those consciously or unconsciously looking for exceptional objects that are one of a kind.
Contemporary Timepieces - Technical creations with a contemporary design (Le Duel, Duet, etc.) and minimalist, avant-garde models (La Tour) incorporating complications such as retrograde seconds, power reserve indicators, moon phases, tourbillons, chiming mechanisms or perpetual calendars.
Carriage Clocks - Lastly, classic travel clocks, also known as “officers’ clocks”. These historical pieces issued from the brand’s heritage also feature their fair share of complications: chiming mechanisms, minute repeaters, calendars, moon phases, tourbillons and more.

All pieces are designed and manufactured in-house. Their technical prowess, combination of Form and Function, very long power reserves and remarkable finishes have become signature features of the brand.

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For more information:
L'Epée 1839
Rue saint Maurice 1
2800 Delémont
Switzerland
(+41) 032 421 94 00
marketing@swiza.ch
Emmanuelle Mary
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