Tuesday, November 23, 2021

Moritz Grossmann – Benu BACKPAGE Blue Platinum Edition

Moritz GrossmannBENU BACKPAGE Blue Skeleton Platinum Special Edition 2021

 BACKPAGE Blue new splendour for a unique design

Celebrating its 13th anniversary on 11 November 2021, the Moritz Grossmann Manufacture has unveiled an exquisite version of the BACKPAGE. 

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The prestigious watch brand is marking the occasion with this magnificent model, which brings the exceptional design of the "mirror-inverted" calibre 107.0 to life in an ensemble of deep blue, polished steel and gold elements. The timepiece is available in a platinum case and comes in a limited edition of 13 pieces worldwide.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The BACKPAGE – a spectacular showcase of Grossmann’s watchmaking prowess – was presented by Moritz Grossmann in March 2018. A timepiece that raised a question not only shared by enthusiasts and admirers of mechanical watchmaking  –  which is more beautiful: the view of the front or the back. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The platinum statement piece, limited to 18 pieces, ushered in a completely new design in the world of haute horlogerie by making the signature mechanical highlights of the manufacture calibre  –  such as the Grossmann balance, the balance cock hand-engraved with floral motifs, and the 3-band snailing on the ratchet wheel  –  visible on the dial. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Legendary in connoisseur circles, these movement components enthral aficionados with an exceptionally large dial cut-out. The small seconds display also enjoys a prominent position thanks to the extravagant bearing for the second hand featuring a gold chaton.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The BACKPAGE Transparent launched last year, in which the precision-mechanical ensemble was accented by a sapphire crystal printed with indices and numerals, also delighted devotees of Glashütte fine watchmaking.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

This year, Moritz Grossmann proudly presents a new variation of the BACKPAGE principle that dispenses entirely with numerals and indices and adds an expressive colour, the BACKPAGE Blue. Thanks to a wafer-thin layer of metal oxide, which is applied with nanometric precision of 1 millionth of a millimetre after finishing the components, all frame parts are resplendent in a deep blue hue. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The colour is durable and resistant to environmental influences, possessing a unique brilliance that creates a charming contrast to the gold-plated gear wheels, the gold chatons, the polished steel hands crafted in the manufactory, the carefully bevelled and polished screw heads and the ratchet wheel embellished with a 3-band snailing finish.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

An innovative coating process is employed on the surfaces of all the frame parts, resulting in a fascinating interplay of light and colour that enhances the beauty of the mechanism, displayed and finished with consummate virtuosity, directly on the wrist.

The manufactory calibre 107.0: a new take on traditional Glashütte watchmaking artistry

The calibre 107.0 was designed by Moritz Grossmann to attain this expressive visual impression on the front of the dial. While at first glance it may seem to be a mirror image of the calibre 100.1, it is actually based on a new technical approach.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


An additional wheel between the crown wheel and the ratchet wheel reverses the entire drive train with respect to the rotation of the mainspring barrel. The wheel train runs in the right direction thanks to the mirrored escapement and the mirrored oscillation system – also including the balance spring coiling direction.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The larger dimensions of the 2/3 plate necessitated design changes for the balance cock and the escape-wheel cock. The cantilevered geometry of the escape-wheel cock creates a balanced accent in the overall arrangement of the movement. The exceptionally luxurious high-artistic finish of the two components is fascinating with its masterly handcrafted engravings, chamfers and bevels.

The minute-wheel bridge: an innovative mechanism

To achieve the desired presence of the winding wheels on the dial side, the dial train was reconfigured. The artistically finished train wheels were arranged beneath a highly polished and bevelled minute-wheel bridge.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTOSince in this case, the hand-setting mechanism is located on the opposite side of the movement, the setting wheel extends all the way through the calibre. The new arrangement created space for the optimised barrel bearing and the ratchet wheel, which was also shifted to the front side.

The back of the movement: clear the stage for the winder with pusher and stop seconds


Even though the front mesmerises with a deft display of carefully selected components, the view of the back is equally captivating.  

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


One of the highlights here is the functional sequence of the winding mechanism, which is openly integrated into the wheel bridge. Almost all of its components are mirrored in order to guarantee their function even when mounted in the opposite position while ensuring the position of the lever remains unchanged.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

The stop-seconds and stop-balance functions have also been redesigned. In the hand-setting mechanism, the brake position is sampled at the clutch lever and, via a push rod, transferred to the brake spring, which then stops the balance. After the pusher is activated and the movement starts, the brake spring returns the push rod to its rest position.

Platinum case

A platinum case provides a fitting accompaniment for the anniversary model, which is worn with a dark blue strap made of hand-stitched alligator leather.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


The BACKPAGE Blue in the online boutique

The new model and the entire collection are now available in the new Moritz Grossmann Online Boutique.

-----------------------------------------

Technical Specifications

Collection  BENU

Limited to 13 watches worldwide

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Reference    MG-003108

Case    Platinum
Dial     Openworked / Blue    
Hands    Manually crafted, annealed to a blue hue
Limited edition    13 watches worldwide


Movement
Manufacture calibre 107.0, manually wound, adjusted in five positions
Dimensions    Diameter: 36.4 mm, height 5.0 mm
No. of parts    230
No. of jewels    24, of which 7 in screwed gold chatons
Escapement    Lever escapement
Oscillator     Shock-resistant Grossmann balance with 4 inertia and 2 poising screws,  Nivarox 1 balance spring with No. 80 Breguet terminal curve, Gerstenberger geometry
Balance     Diameter 14.2 mm, frequency: 18,000 semi-oscillations/hour
Power reserve    42 hours when fully wound
Functions 
Hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop second, Grossmann manual winder with pusher
Case
Three-part, Platinum
Operating elements     Crown in platinum to wind the watch and set the time, pusher in platinum to start the movement
Case dimensions    Diameter: 41.0 mm, height 11.35 mm
Dial
Openworked. Solid silver, baton hour markers in precious metal
Hands    Manually crafted from steel polished
Crystal and display back   Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side
Strap
Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in Platinum

Special features
Balance staff with integrated safety roller, location of the impulse pin in the balance (Glashütte style); index adjuster with Grossmann micrometer screw; plate movement with 3/4 plate on dial side, frame pillars and separately removable clutch winding mechanism; visible hand setting train on the back side of the movement; frame parts in German silver with metal-oxide coating; raised gold chatons with pan-head screws; ratchet wheel with stopwork on the modified spring barrel bearing with a gold chaton in the ratchet wheel; dial train wheels spoked and bevelled, beneath polished bridge

Limited edition  13 pieces

Price: Recommended retail EUR 50,000 (excl. taxes) 💰 

 
---------------------------------
Press Release - 2021
---------------------------------
----------------------------------
PRESSE KONTAKT
GROSSMANN UHREN GmbH
Rainer Kern - Leiter Kommunikation
Uferstr. 1
Telefon: +49 35 053 32 00 20
Fax: +49 35 053 32 00 99
E-Mail:  sandra@grossmann-uhren.com
----------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Moritz Grossmann Glashuette
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
www.Grossmann-Uhren.com

Monday, November 22, 2021

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Titanium Blue 2021

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Perpetual Calendar Titanium 41 mm Blue Automatic 2021

AUDEMARS PIGUET RELEASES A NEW ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR CRAFTED IN TITANIUM

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to unveil a new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar model, crafted in Grade 5 titanium. The new dial design pairs a blue “Grande Tapisserie” pattern with contrasting grey subdials, bestowing the model with a contemporary two-tone aesthetic.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

This timepiece will be launched in September in exclusivity for the United States, with limited availability in other countries as of October.

CUTTING-EDGE AND REFINED AESTHETIC

The bracelet and case of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar are fully crafted in Grade 5 titanium – a tribute to the Manufacture’s uncompromising blend of high technology and ancestral craftsmanship. Often used for aerospace, motorsport and medical applications, this alloy is strong, lightweight, non-magnetic and highly resistant to corrosion.

Upholding fine watchmaking tradition, the ultra-light case and bracelet have been hand-finished with the Manufacture’s trademark alternation of satin-brushing and polished surfaces. Measuring 9.5 mm in thickness, this complicated timepiece also presents a slender profile.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The beauty of the titanium case and bracelet reside as well in their manufacturing complexity. Difficult to machine, this hard material causes milling tools to wear out more readily. Moreover, the milling speeds must be reduced to avoid any adverse heat damage to the alloy, thereby taking much longer to process than components formed of steel or gold.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The titanium case is enhanced with a new two-tone dial uniting a blue “Grande Tapisserie” pattern with smooth grey subdials matching with the hue of the case and bracelet for an elegant contrast and a unique play of light.

A SOPHISTICATED COMPLICATION

This limited perpetual calendar edition is powered by the selfwinding Calibre 5134, which automatically takes into account the number of days in the month and correctly displays the prevailing date even in leap years.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

Assuming the watch is kept fully wound, the date will not require manual correction until 2100, at which point it will require adjustment in order to stay in line with the Gregorian calendar.*

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The watch’s sapphire caseback reveals the refined decorations adorning the movement, which include “Côtes de Genève,” circular graining, circular satin and polished chamfers. The 22-carat gold openworked oscillating weight is further embellished with “Clous de Paris.”

Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.

* The Gregorian calendar omits three leap years every 400 years to remain in line with solar time. This is achieved by omitting February 29 in the century years which number can be divided by 100, but not by 400. As a result, 2100 will not be a leap year and perpetual calendar mechanisms will have to be moved forward by one day.

  ==============================
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: 
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar / 41 mm

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

Ref. 26574TI.OO.1220TI.01 - Titanium

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 5134
Total diameter                 29 mm (12¾ lignes)   
Total thickness                4.3 mm
Number of parts                374
Number of jewels            38         
Minimum power reserve guaranteed    40 h   
Frequency of balance wheel     2.75 Hz (19,800 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Perpetual calendar with week indication,
day, date, astronomical moon, month, leap year, hours and minutes.
CASE
Titanium Grade 5 case Ø 41 mm
18-carat pink gold bezel
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback
Water-resistant to 20 m.
DIAL
Blue dial with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern
Grey subdials
White gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
Blue inner bezel.
BRACELET 
Titanium bracelet with AP folding clasp.

Warranty
Two year warranty


Your watch is guaranteed against manufacturing defects for a period of 2 years subject to our International Sales Warranty.

  ---------------------------------
Press Release - 2021
---------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------
Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
--------------------------------------------------------------------
www.facebook.com - Audemars Piguet
------------------------------------------------------------------------
www.AudemarsPiguet.com