Saturday, September 18, 2021

MONTBLANC – 1858 Chronograph ORIGINS Edition

MONTBLANC1858 Chronograph ORIGINS Bronze 46 Special Limited Edition - 2021 

A CHRONOGRAPH NAMED ORIGINS 
 
The Montblanc 1858 product line is inspired by the legendary Minerva professional watches from the 1920s and 1930s which were conceived for military use and exploration. Reinterpreting these legendary models, the Montblanc 1858 watches express the spirit of mountain exploration, embodying the modern trend of returning and reconnecting to nature.
 
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Paying tribute to the origins of Minerva, Montblanc  unveils the new Montblanc Montblanc 1858  Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100, a re-edition of a 46 mm military monopusher  chronograph from the 1930s that was equipped with  the calibre 19-09CH
 
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When customers or journalists visit the Manufacture museum in Villeret, they are often surprised by the  modernity and beauty of a 46 mm Minerva military  monopusher chronograph from the 1930s. This  timepiece, with its black dial and luminescent  vintage elements, served as the main inspiration for the  entire Montblanc 1858 collection, hence the name  Origins. While every detail from the original watch has been taken into account – from the dial to the case and  movement – the re-edition goes much further. 
 
The Origins 
 
A leading specialist in the fabrication of professional watches and stopwatches, Minerva developed the 46 mm military monopusher chronograph from the 1930s equipped with the calibre 19-09CH. This historical  timepiece featured a large case size which was  unusual for the time.   
 
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This size allowed watchmakers to  integrate the calibre 19-09, a movement of 19 lines  developed in 1909 that was initially intended for a  pocket watch. Far from the round pebble-shape of  pocket watches, however, the case o the chronograph was specially  developed for a wristwatch, leading to a  particularly modern look that integrated all the  comfort and ergonomy needed. The original timepiece showcased a black dial with bi-compax counters and  cathedral-shaped hands coated with  Super-LumiNova® which were  designed for military use and provided excellent  readability both during the day and night. 

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Black  dial is paired with rose-gold-coloured elements that accentuate the vintage style, while also providing excellent readability of the complications both day and night.  

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100
 
Inspired by the 46 mm Minerva military monopusher chronograph from the 1930s, the new limited edition pays tribute to the origins of the Manufacture. The  timepiece goes beyond a simple re-edition, keeping key elements of the original model while integrating vintage twists. Equipped with the Manufacture  monopusher chronograph calibre MB M16.29, the  Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins features a 46 mm case made of a special alloy of bronze, a distinctive “officer” case back, a vintage black dial with beige elements, and a  matching brown Sfumato alligator strap.

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The Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins case has been made in a special alloy of bronze that will obtain an attractive patina over time and is reminiscent of exploration tools from the past. An “officer” case back has been added, just like in traditional pocket watches, protecting the movement, which is adorned with distinctive engravings on both sides. The outside of the “officer” case back features the head of the Minerva Goddess. The inside of the  cover bears the inscription “Réédition du chronographe militaire Minerva des années 1930 doté d’un calibre fait main dans la pure tradition horlogère suisse”  (Re-edition of a  Minerva military chronograph from the 1930s equipped with a hand-made calibre  following the Swiss watchmaking tradition).

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Montblanc
uses a very innovative technique to create the image of the Minerva Goddess on the “officer” back giving it an authentic rendering in 3-dimensions,  providing depth and realism as if it was a photograph. Made of titanium, the metal must first be structured, which means that the decoration will be engraved by laser, taking into consideration the relief of the drawing. 
 
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Then the desired finish (matt and shiny) is also achieved by laser. Finally comes the colouring phase. The colours are created by laser-generated oxidation. It is the level of oxidation that determines the final colour obtained (and desired). Montblanc is one of the most advanced Swiss Maisons to use of this technology on such a large surface. This innovation is in line with the brand‘s spirit of exploration.

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When opening the “officer” case back, the beauty of the  Manufacture monopusher chronograph calibre MB M16.29  is revealed, showing an authentic reconstruction of the  Minerva chronograph calibre dating back to the beginning  of the 20th century. For this limited edition, the execution of the movement is of particular note as the main  plate and bridges have been left in raw Maillechort (also called  “German-silver”), a high-end traditional material used in  Minerva movements in former times. 
 
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The Maillechort gives a slightly yellowish finish, rather than the more common  rhodium coating. Traditional finishings such as Côtes de  Genève, inner angles, circular graining, and bevelling are, of course, all performed at the same Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret
 
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Like on the original chronograph calibre, the MB M16.29 features the iconic V-shape bridge (whose design was protected in 1912), a column wheel, horizontal coupling, and a traditional frequency of 18,000 A/h. As a tribute to historical movements, the Minerva arrow is visible at the extremity of the chronograph “blocker”.

This modern-day version is reco
 
The timepiece comes with a black dial that has been  paired with contrasting rose gold-coloured cathedral-shaped hands and numerals with beige Super-LumiNova® for greater  legibility at night. This enhanced readability continues onto the Arabic numerals as well as on the hour and minute hands thanks to additional touches of luminescence. A nod to the  original chronograph comes in the form of a Minerva logo on the dial that is symmetrically positioned below the historical  Montblanc logo at 6 o’clock. Other vintage details include  bi-compax counters with large small seconds and  minutes chronograph, as well as a railway minute track  that have all been reproduced from the original design.  

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The Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins is completed with a brand-new vintage-style brown Sfumato  alligator strap with beige stitching and is strictly limited to  100 pieces.

As mentioned, Montblanc will make only 100 examples of the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 and each will retail for the collector-driven price of EUR 30,000. That's about $36,200, and at that price, Montblanc is really preaching to the choir, which presumably includes no small number of Montblanc fans and Minerva nerds.
 
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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Model: Montblanc 1858 Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100

Ident. 128506


Movement
Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.29

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Type of movement: Manually wound monopusher chronograph with split second
Chronograph: Monopusher with two column-wheels (one for the chronograph and one for the split second) and horizontal coupling
Dimensions: Diameter = 38.4 mm; height = 6.30 mm
Number of components: 252
Number of rubies: 22
Power reserve: Approx. 50 hours
Balance:
Screw balance, diameter = 14.5 mm; moment of inertia = 59 mgcm²
Frequency: 18,000 A/h (2.5 Hz)

Hairspring: With Phillips terminal curve
Plate:
Rhodium-plated german silver with circular graining on both sides
Bridges: Rhodium-plated german silver with “Côtes de Genève
Going-train: Gold-plated, faceted arms, diamond polished surfaces
Displays: Hours and minutes from the center
Small seconds at “9 o’clock”
Chronograph’s elapsed-second and split-second hands from the dial’s center
Counter for 30 elapsed minutes at “3 o’clock”

Habillage

Case
Special alloy of bronze
Crystal: Scratch-resistant, domed sapphire, antireflective crystal, anti-magnetized treatment
Back: Screwed titanium bronze-plated case back with inset pane of sapphire crystal
Dimensions: Diameter = 46 mm; height = 14.53 mm
Water resistance: 3 bar
Crown: Bronze with Montblanc emblem in raised relief
Pushers: Monopusher chronograph integrated into the crown and one pusher at 2 o’clock for the split-second
Dial
Black nephrite jade stone, beige Arabic numerals coated with Super-LumiNova®,
18K rose gold-plated luminescent hour-hand and minute-hands,
18K rose gold-plated chronograph and second hand, red-coloured split-second hand, historical Montblanc emblem at 12 o’clock, the central part of the dial and telemeter on the exterior of the dial
Wristband
Vintage brown Sfumato alligator-skin with beige stitching and satin-finish bronze-plated buckle

Limited Edition: 100 pieces


Certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500

(* Super-LumiNova® is not a trademark owned by Montblanc)


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Friday, September 17, 2021

SPEAKE-MARIN – One & Two Openworked HMS V3 Edition

 

SPEAKE-MARINOne & Two Openworked HMS V3 Titanium/Gold Edition 2021

September 2021, Geneva – Speake-Marin revisits its iconic Openworked Hours Minutes Seconds with a new version: Openworked V3.

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The design is inspired by modern architecture and belongs to the One& Two collection, which highlights the Speake-Marin in-house movement.

INSPIRATION

This new aesthetic follows the codes of the One& Two Openworked collection with a strong element positioned at 1:30. For the SMA01, the strong element is the small second counter. The objective is to show the movement from the inside and to give a very uncluttered look and feel.
To do so, the chosen finish on the bottom plate is brushed (direction 1:30) versus a circular graining finish in the past editions. The sun burst Geneva stripes finish has been kept to highlight the small second counter which is the vanishing point of the dial.

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The intention of the One & Two Openworked collection is to play with light and shadow. The different surface decorations and treatments on the components create a wide variation of light reflections and depth perspectives.

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For this new version, the black colour has been introduced on the triangular bridge and the second counter to bring modernity. The Speake-Marin creation studio takes indeed inspiration from modern design and architecture, especially black architecture for its latest creations that you can find everywhere in megacities like London. The black colour evokes power, elegance and sophistication.

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Both contemporary with the dial and classic with the case, it will please watch aficionados who want to affirm their style and individuality with an audacious watch choice that will differentiate them from others.

MOVEMENT

The movement featured in the One &Two Openworked Hours Minutes Seconds is the SMA01 Calibre: an Openworked movement, which integrates a micro-rotor. It has been designed, developed and assembled in our Haute Horlogerie workshop near Neuchatel, in Switzerland.

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The SMA01 movement is inspired by the architectural «Deconstructivism movement», which challenges the regular architecture and opens new possibilities: sloping walls, sloping floors, rounded rooftops, etc… (cf. Franck Gehry, Daniel Liebeskind, Zaha Hadid among others)

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In this case, Speake-Marin challenges the position of the small second and imagines it at 1:30. It generates a new movement design with rounded bridges, openings in the plate, new positions of the wheels and a vanishing point at 1:30.  The movement has a visual balance between the barrel, the oscillating mass and the small seconds at 1:30. It creates a triangle shape, which plays with the number “three”. This design is the foundation for the whole Speake-Marin Openworked movement collection.

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The SMA01 calibre has been optimized for this new SMA01 generation and includes now a reverse wheel allowing a self-winding on both rotations.

PICCADILLY CASE

    The new generation of the Piccadilly case is more technical than the original one allowing the straps to be integrated closer in the case, moving the crown further into the case so as to soften its aesthetics whilst maintaining its original DNA.

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The bezel and the case back slightly overlap the central case section altering the overall “look” of the watch while maintaining the iconoclastic feel of Speake-Marin. In addition, the glass traditionally set into the bezel has now been altered to a box form, reducing the overall thickness of the case and accentuating the technical aspect of the watch.

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SPEAKE-MARIN “IN-HOUSE” MOVEMENTS STRATEGY
 
 Since 2015, Speake-Marin has initiated a movement strategy to fully develop and assemble proprietary movements within its atelier in the Neuchatel area, Switzerland. This new strategy gave birth to the “SMA” collection, which includes Openworked, closed dials and Haute Horlogerie movements. Firstly, Speake-Marin focused its efforts on Haute Horlogerie 3 Hz movements (Minute Repeater and Double Tourbillon). Then, Speake-Marin developed Hour Minutes Seconds 4Hz movements, which were featured in the new One&Two design as an Openworked movement named SMA01. This movement is particular due to the small seconds counter being positioned at 1:30 and its integrated micro-rotor. The new SMA02 Calibre is part of the SMA movement family and follows the Openworked collection approach with the small seconds at 1:30. The small seconds at 1:30 meets the Speake-Marin objective to break-away from the watchmaking codes: Speake-Marin is the only watchmaker who positions the small seconds there. It is actually a real constraint in terms of movement development since the small seconds at 1:30 have to go through the time setting module.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: One & Two

Model: One&Two OPENWORKED HMS V3 
 

References -Titanium

38mm: 413813330
42mm: 414213330
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References - Red gold 5N
38mm: 423813330
42mm: 424213330
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MOVEMENT
Self-winding movement with micro-rotor
Calibre SMA01
Power Reserve: 52 hours
INDICATIONS
Hours Minutes and Seconds.
Small seconds and retrograde date at 1:30
Dual Time indication at 9 o’clock
DIAL
Openworked dial. Sun burst Geneva stripes finish eart-shaped blued steel hands.
CASE
New generation Piccadilly case

  • Titanium 
  • Red gold 5N

Diameter: 38 or 42 mm
Front and back sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating.
Open back case
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 metres)
STRAP

  • Black alligator, folding buckle in titanium 
  • Black alligator, folding buckle in red gold 5N

Limited Edition   -  Titanium Diameter 38mm: 19 pieces | 42mm: 19 pieces

PRICES     38mm: 17,825 CHF without tax    |    42mm: 18,400 CHF without tax 

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Limited Edition   -  Red gold 5N Diameter 38mm: 10 pieces | 42mm: 10 pieces

REFERENCE        38mm: 423813330                 |    42mm: 424213330

PRICES     38mm: 31,625 CHF without tax    |    42mm: 33,925 CHF without tax


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Press Release - 2021
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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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