Friday, September 17, 2021

SPEAKE-MARIN – One & Two Openworked HMS V3 Edition

 

SPEAKE-MARINOne & Two Openworked HMS V3 Titanium/Gold Edition 2021

September 2021, Geneva – Speake-Marin revisits its iconic Openworked Hours Minutes Seconds with a new version: Openworked V3.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The design is inspired by modern architecture and belongs to the One& Two collection, which highlights the Speake-Marin in-house movement.

INSPIRATION

This new aesthetic follows the codes of the One& Two Openworked collection with a strong element positioned at 1:30. For the SMA01, the strong element is the small second counter. The objective is to show the movement from the inside and to give a very uncluttered look and feel.
To do so, the chosen finish on the bottom plate is brushed (direction 1:30) versus a circular graining finish in the past editions. The sun burst Geneva stripes finish has been kept to highlight the small second counter which is the vanishing point of the dial.

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The intention of the One & Two Openworked collection is to play with light and shadow. The different surface decorations and treatments on the components create a wide variation of light reflections and depth perspectives.

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For this new version, the black colour has been introduced on the triangular bridge and the second counter to bring modernity. The Speake-Marin creation studio takes indeed inspiration from modern design and architecture, especially black architecture for its latest creations that you can find everywhere in megacities like London. The black colour evokes power, elegance and sophistication.

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Both contemporary with the dial and classic with the case, it will please watch aficionados who want to affirm their style and individuality with an audacious watch choice that will differentiate them from others.

MOVEMENT

The movement featured in the One &Two Openworked Hours Minutes Seconds is the SMA01 Calibre: an Openworked movement, which integrates a micro-rotor. It has been designed, developed and assembled in our Haute Horlogerie workshop near Neuchatel, in Switzerland.

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO  

The SMA01 movement is inspired by the architectural «Deconstructivism movement», which challenges the regular architecture and opens new possibilities: sloping walls, sloping floors, rounded rooftops, etc… (cf. Franck Gehry, Daniel Liebeskind, Zaha Hadid among others)

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In this case, Speake-Marin challenges the position of the small second and imagines it at 1:30. It generates a new movement design with rounded bridges, openings in the plate, new positions of the wheels and a vanishing point at 1:30.  The movement has a visual balance between the barrel, the oscillating mass and the small seconds at 1:30. It creates a triangle shape, which plays with the number “three”. This design is the foundation for the whole Speake-Marin Openworked movement collection.

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The SMA01 calibre has been optimized for this new SMA01 generation and includes now a reverse wheel allowing a self-winding on both rotations.

PICCADILLY CASE

    The new generation of the Piccadilly case is more technical than the original one allowing the straps to be integrated closer in the case, moving the crown further into the case so as to soften its aesthetics whilst maintaining its original DNA.

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The bezel and the case back slightly overlap the central case section altering the overall “look” of the watch while maintaining the iconoclastic feel of Speake-Marin. In addition, the glass traditionally set into the bezel has now been altered to a box form, reducing the overall thickness of the case and accentuating the technical aspect of the watch.

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SPEAKE-MARIN “IN-HOUSE” MOVEMENTS STRATEGY
 
 Since 2015, Speake-Marin has initiated a movement strategy to fully develop and assemble proprietary movements within its atelier in the Neuchatel area, Switzerland. This new strategy gave birth to the “SMA” collection, which includes Openworked, closed dials and Haute Horlogerie movements. Firstly, Speake-Marin focused its efforts on Haute Horlogerie 3 Hz movements (Minute Repeater and Double Tourbillon). Then, Speake-Marin developed Hour Minutes Seconds 4Hz movements, which were featured in the new One&Two design as an Openworked movement named SMA01. This movement is particular due to the small seconds counter being positioned at 1:30 and its integrated micro-rotor. The new SMA02 Calibre is part of the SMA movement family and follows the Openworked collection approach with the small seconds at 1:30. The small seconds at 1:30 meets the Speake-Marin objective to break-away from the watchmaking codes: Speake-Marin is the only watchmaker who positions the small seconds there. It is actually a real constraint in terms of movement development since the small seconds at 1:30 have to go through the time setting module.

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Collection: One & Two

Model: One&Two OPENWORKED HMS V3 
 

References -Titanium

38mm: 413813330
42mm: 414213330
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References - Red gold 5N
38mm: 423813330
42mm: 424213330
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MOVEMENT
Self-winding movement with micro-rotor
Calibre SMA01
Power Reserve: 52 hours
INDICATIONS
Hours Minutes and Seconds.
Small seconds and retrograde date at 1:30
Dual Time indication at 9 o’clock
DIAL
Openworked dial. Sun burst Geneva stripes finish eart-shaped blued steel hands.
CASE
New generation Piccadilly case

  • Titanium 
  • Red gold 5N

Diameter: 38 or 42 mm
Front and back sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating.
Open back case
Water resistance: 3 bar (30 metres)
STRAP

  • Black alligator, folding buckle in titanium 
  • Black alligator, folding buckle in red gold 5N

Limited Edition   -  Titanium Diameter 38mm: 19 pieces | 42mm: 19 pieces

PRICES     38mm: 17,825 CHF without tax    |    42mm: 18,400 CHF without tax 

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Limited Edition   -  Red gold 5N Diameter 38mm: 10 pieces | 42mm: 10 pieces

REFERENCE        38mm: 423813330                 |    42mm: 424213330

PRICES     38mm: 31,625 CHF without tax    |    42mm: 33,925 CHF without tax


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Press Release - 2021
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Should you need additional information,
feel free to contact our Communications Department by email:
veronique@speake-marin.com or by phone at: +41 21 695 26 56
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Thursday, September 16, 2021

AUDEMARS PIGUET – Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS

 

AUDEMARS PIGUETRoyal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS 2021

 Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO

 A ROYAL OAK DOUBLE BALANCE WHEEL OPENWORKED PAVED WITH DIAMONDS

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to present a new 18-carat pink gold Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked  timepiece set with 436 baguette-cut diamonds. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO The diamonds’ purity and shimmering effect create interesting plays of light and illuminate the cutting-edge double balance wheel mechanism visible on both sides of the watch. The radiance and elegance of this distinctive timepiece marrying Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie will attract attention from a distance.

THE ART OF GEMSETTING

The 436 baguette-cut diamonds adorning the case, bracelet and bezel of the new Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked have been carefully selected to respond to the Manufacture’s highest criteria in terms of clarity, cut and colour. The diamonds have been individually cut and polished to reach clear and sharp angles before being invisibly set by hand. 

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Tiny grooves are delicately cut in each stone. The baguette-cut diamonds are then snapped into a hidden rail mounted in the gold case as well as in the bracelet’s links and connecting studs, giving the impression that they are holding on their own. Pushing meticulousness a step further, the gemsetting continues all the way down to the folding clasp, reflecting light, while creating a pure scintillating effect.

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The glittering case and bracelet illuminate the openworked mechanism, whose rhodium-toned hues harmoniously echo the grey shades of the inner bezel and reflecting diamonds. To add a subtle hint of colour, the hour-markers are adorned with 11 pink gold-toned baguette-cut sapphires, around which rotate the 18-carat pink gold Royal Oak hands. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the 22-carat pink gold double balance wheel pushes the contrast further for a refined touch down to the last detail.

PATENTED INNOVATION MEETS ANCESTRAL CRAFTSMANSHIP

The diamond-set pink gold bezel offers a scintillating frame to Calibre 3132, equipped with a double balance wheel mechanism. This patented innovation, released by Audemars Piguet in 2016, improves the watch’s precision and stability.  

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By incorporating two balance wheels and two hairsprings assembled on the same axis, the system oscillates in perfect synchrony. Visible on both sides of the case, the double balance wheel confers a rare glimpse at the watch’s beating heart.

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n addition, the openworked bridges reveal part of the gear train on the dial and caseback sides. An Audemars Piguet speciality since the 1930s, openworking is an art balancing aesthetic and function. Highly trained experts create the movement by starting with the end design and working backwards. 

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO


Cut too little in the wrong place and it looks wrong. Cut too much and the movement’s functionality is compromised. Solving the puzzle demands horological mastery and profound knowledge of materials and finishing techniques.

Born in Le Brassus, raised around the world.”

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TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Model:  Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Gold 41 mm DIAMONDS

Click, to see the large size. BIG FOTO 

 Reference 15417OR.ZZ.1267OR.01

MOVEMENT
Selfwinding Calibre 3132

Total diameter 26.6 mm (11 ¾ lignes)
Total thickness 5.6 mm
Number of jewels 38
Number of parts 245
Minimum power reserve guaranteed 45 h
Frequency of balance wheel 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, centre seconds.
CASE
18-carat pink gold case and bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds
Glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback, screw-locked crown
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 10 mm
Water-resistant to 50 m.
DIAL
Rhodium-toned openworked movement, hour-markers set with pink gold-toned baguette-cut
sapphires, pink gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, grey inner bezel.
BRACELET
18-carat pink gold bracelet set with baguette-cut diamonds with 18-carat pink gold AP folding clasp
set with baguette-cut diamonds.

GEMSETTING
💎436 baguette-cut diamonds and 💎11 baguette-cut sapphires for a total of 44.8 carats.

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Press Release - 2021
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Audemars Piguet (Marketing) SA
Route de France 16 - Case postale 16
1348 Le Brassus - Switzerland
Phone : + 41 21 642 39 00
Fax : + 41 21 642 34 02
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